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What did you do to your Scope/Mount Today?

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9965 replies to this topic

#9951 clamchip

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 02:30 PM

I'll try your suggestion, sounds like a good plan.

The only thing I can think of is Towa put priority on straight-thru observing for baffle size and location, even

though it was made for export where everyone typically uses a prism. Japanese amateur's prefer straight-thru

observing and that's the way they built it, I'm guessing.

 

Robert


Edited by clamchip, 04 February 2025 - 02:31 PM.

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#9952 clamchip

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 05:29 PM

I set the scope up with the supplied AH20mm straight thru.

Here it is at infinite focus. You can see how much drawtube is out, near full draw.

I would say the "moving baffles" in the drawtube are OK, tight but OK, not

enough for me to alter the scope over. All I was going to do is slide one baffle. To slide

the offending baffle no problem but I will not be able to slide it back. I would need

to make a puller and pull it back.

Robert

 

IMG_3108.JPG


Edited by clamchip, 04 February 2025 - 05:40 PM.

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#9953 clamchip

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 06:50 PM

I torture tested Jason and absolutely no reflections off the walls, as expected with this too small

baffle at the sky end of the drawtube. This is very nice for contrast. I might get in there and make a mess

of things unless I sit down and draw the light cone and measure the baffles. Do it right or don't do it

at all, is what nurse Mendy is telling me. Frenchie says let's open a bottle of wine. Michelle flat out wants

it nuked out of there right now, no if's and's or but's. 

Robert

 

IMG_3114.JPG

post-50896-0-86524100-1677600561_thumb.jpg

post-50896-0-56576100-1418347007_thumb.jpg

 

 

 


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#9954 jragsdale

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 07:00 PM

Speaking of baffles, is there an automatic baffle generator anywhere online? Like input the desired field stop size, aperture, focal length and number of baffles and it will tell you the hole size and location to put them? I'm hoping to 3D print some semi-automatically.


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#9955 Steve Allison

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 08:57 PM

Deleting post. I did not read some of the earlier posts carefully enough. Sorry.



#9956 deSitter

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 10:26 PM

Speaking of baffles, is there an automatic baffle generator anywhere online? Like input the desired field stop size, aperture, focal length and number of baffles and it will tell you the hole size and location to put them? I'm hoping to 3D print some semi-automatically.

I think this is right.

 

-drl

Attached Thumbnails

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#9957 luxo II

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Posted 04 February 2025 - 10:41 PM

Not quite - this is the geometry to design baffles… the spacing between them and the field of view matter,  too. The location of the first sets the location of the next and so-on
 

1-s2.0-S0273117723008931-gr1_lrg.jpg


Edited by luxo II, 04 February 2025 - 10:51 PM.

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#9958 CHASLX200

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Posted 05 February 2025 - 06:55 AM

Moved the OTA off the floor this AM from the Mon nite on the 10" F/6 when i ripped my arm open.  Narrow doors are not fun.



#9959 jragsdale

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Posted 05 February 2025 - 08:41 AM

Not quite - this is the geometry to design baffles… the spacing between them and the field of view matter,  too. The location of the first sets the location of the next and so-on
 

1-s2.0-S0273117723008931-gr1_lrg.jpg

Excellent! Now just need that turned into a program or spreadsheet you can fill out. ;)


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#9960 ccwemyss

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Posted 05 February 2025 - 10:59 PM

I rearranged the rings and accessories on the Edmund 4". I originally used a long Losmandy dovetail that happened to have holes where the mount screws could pass through and be hidden. But then the center of gravity was too far back, so I made a sliding counterweight to go up front for balance. Although it worked, it also meant that the back end would swing through a wide range of heights, from kneeling to tiptoe. And, of course, I couldn't reach the counterweight to adjust it when it was pointing skyward. 

 

So I narrowed the span between the OTA rings a bit and moved them as far back as I could. Then I slightly shortened the counterweight bar to fit between them (the weight won't clear the rings as it slides), and remounted the Edmund Voyager finder with a bit more space between its rings. The scope now has much less length behind the mount, and the weight is well within reach. Although it's pretty busy in that section of the tube now. I might rework the weight posts to mount on the far side of the finder rings, to reduce the clutter. But will give it a try first, to see if I like it or want to try something more radical like moving the Telrad base, so the weight can go even farther back. 

 

Edmund 4 - 1 (8).jpeg Edmund 4 - 2 (2).jpeg

 

Chip W. 


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#9961 kjkrum

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Posted Yesterday, 01:42 PM

There's an optical layout in there called the Tucson. I have to build one. lol.gif


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#9962 clamchip

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Posted Today, 11:59 AM

It doesn't take much snow on my driveway to make us stuck here.

I have a gas powered snow blower and shovels if needed, a solid 2 hour job.

This winter I prepared for it and I'm not going to clear my driveway.

So I'm stuck here with all my telescopes, plenty of food, but no eggs! we have

chickens but they don't lay eggs this time of the year. No eggs no baking, bummer.

I did make eggless waffles, not too bad, I will say with reservations.

Today is 4 inch f/10 day. I did a trade with a friend and I have this lens I should

test. And I think I have a piece of tubing.

 

Robert



#9963 jragsdale

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Posted Today, 12:44 PM

No eggs no baking, bummer.

We use Bob Red Mill's Egg Replacer for baked goods, can hardly tell the different in a baked item and WAY cheaper than eggs at today's prices.


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#9964 Kitfox

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Posted Today, 02:49 PM

Robert, get some Black Marans.  Ours lay every other day through the winter with no supplemental lighting (36 degrees north).  The Colombian Wyandottes stop completely from late November until late January.

 

Removed the mirrors from the 8" Tinsley.  They look to have decent coatings, so off to get some distilled water.  Going to work a bit on this focuser, too...I think it's a keeper, as if I have a choice; it's integral to the baffle tube.

 

Just an aside, why do the coatings on these mirrors from the 60's hold up and those from the 80's are failing?


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#9965 deSitter

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Posted Today, 04:29 PM

Robert, get some Black Marans.  Ours lay every other day through the winter with no supplemental lighting (36 degrees north).  The Colombian Wyandottes stop completely from late November until late January.

 

Removed the mirrors from the 8" Tinsley.  They look to have decent coatings, so off to get some distilled water.  Going to work a bit on this focuser, too...I think it's a keeper, as if I have a choice; it's integral to the baffle tube.

 

Just an aside, why do the coatings on these mirrors from the 60's hold up and those from the 80's are failing?

Interesting, first I've heard of this. Two guesses - less aluminum used, inferior or no SiO2 overcoating.

 

-drl


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#9966 Kitfox

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Posted Today, 04:41 PM

Interesting, first I've heard of this. Two guesses - less aluminum used, inferior or no SiO2 overcoating.

 

-drl

 

I know it's a bit anecdotal, but my two Tinsley's and a late 60's Questar all have quite nice coating condition.  I wish this child of the 60's was aging as well...shocked.gif


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