10252 replies to this topic

[Garyth64]

Wait for it . . . wait for it . . . pictures will be coming. 

Edited by Garyth64, 27 March 2025 - 07:58 AM.

[Bomber Bob]

Must be an older photo.

 

Yep.  Shed Doors aren't that lovely War Eagle!  Orange...

[norvegicus]

Must be an older photo.

 

Yep.  Shed Doors aren't that lovely War Eagle!  Orange...

That was my unit in college.   War Eagles, 15th cadet squadron, USAFA '86

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by norvegicus, 27 March 2025 - 01:40 PM.

[clamchip]

I've been working on my new Seattle Goodwill Lomo Astele 95.

Interesting construction used in this Mak. What amazes me is all the hand fitting of parts

from this huge company Lomo. Straight blade screw heads too.

The focuser was a little sticky and I could not find a thing online so I just treated

the focuser as I would a micrometer and lubed it as if it were one, tolerances much too

close for anything but a very light spindle oil.

Notice the rear port thread is standard SCT. Also notice the cover over the collimation

screw chamber. So far collimation seems ok but I have yet to test it on a star. Unbelievable

considering what this scope has gone thru, I basically brought it back from the dead.

I'm looking for mounting rings. The tube is 4.7" inch (120mm) same as a Astro-Physics

model so they are out there.

Robert

 

Edited by clamchip, 28 March 2025 - 11:13 AM.

[Oldfracguy]

I picked up a Supermount M-Master Aly-Az mount a couple weeks ago that has a higher payload than my Stellarvue M002C, and be a little smoother in its movements, especially side-to-side in Azimuth.  Like the other Supermount models, the M-Master has a 3/8”-16 threaded hole on the bottom to accept a 3/8”-16 tripod bolt.  The intent was to attach this M-Master mount to the top of a Sky-Watcher #S30501 8” tall Pier Extension column atop an old CG-5 tripod.  All that should be needed would be to replace the M10-1.5 threaded center bolt with a 3/8”-16 bolt, something I have done before with other mount heads.  Everything worked as planned, up to a point.  Here is a 4” f/7 ED refractor on the M-Master:

 

 

The recommended payload of the M-Master is 6 to 20 kg (13 to 44 lb.), with a maximum of 25 kg (55 lbs.).  One useful feature these Supermounts have is that the saddle can be adjusted vertically on the mount face so that a better “Y-Axis” balance can be gained.  That places the center of gravity of the scope a little lower than the axis of the Altitude shaft, which allows the scope to remain in balance better over a wide range of elevation angles.

 

The M-Master could barely even notice the 4” f/7 scope aboard.  The Altitude adjustment was extremely smooth and positive, and it was easy to adjust the large Altitude friction control nut to get a “smooth but firm” feel.  The scope stayed in position when switching eyepieces, something that the Stellarvue M002C does not always do unless the Altitude tension knob is cranked down tightly.  On the other hand, the side-to-side Azimuth adjustment was a little rough.  One problem was that the 4” f/7 ED refractor, even loaded up with a 9x50 RACY, a 2” diagonal and eyepiece, came to just under 13 lbs.  That is at the bottom end of the recommended payload of the M-Master mount.

However, that was not the real issue.  I found that the mount stared to become loose, and actually start to wobble around on top of the pier extension column.  The cause was that the 3/8” bolt that secures the mount to the column from underneath was working its way loose as I rotated the scope around in Azimuth.  I also discovered that long metal bushing on the M-Master that has the 3/8” threaded hole on the bottom and the Azimuth friction control nut on the top is press fit into the bottom surface of the mount.  That entire bushing actually came out, very likely loosened by the strong pulling force exerted by the 3/8” bolt that was holding the mount to the tripod column.  I was able to press it back in so that the surface of the metal bushing was once again flush with the bottom surface of the mount.  Here is a photo of the underside of the mount showing the metal bushing with the 3/8”-16 hole:

 

 

and the top part of the bushing with the large Azimuth friction control nut removed:

 

 

In these photos you can see four holes around the center hole.  These are spaced at the corners of a square and have female M8x1.25 threads.  I decided to make use of these holes to fashion something that would securely attach the M-Master to the tripod column without using the 3.8” center hole in the press-fit bushing.

My idea was to use some type of plate that would attach to the bottom of the mount using four M8 screws and attach to the tripod pier extension column using a separate long 3/8” bolt or rod.  Since the width across the SW Pier Extension column’s top surface, mimicking that of a Omni CG-4 and some other Synta-made SW mount tripods, is 4 inches, I used the cover plate from one of those electrical conduit junction boxes, one without the knockout hole so I could drill a 3/8” hole in the middle  I then used some steel collars, ½” tall, as spacers, though which I inserted the four M8 hex head screws that would screws into the holes on the underside of the stationary part of the M-Master:

 

 

 

--- continued ---

[Oldfracguy]

Here is the top portion of the SW Pier Extension attached to the plate assembly using a 3/8” hex head screw threaded all the way along its length, and secured using a washer and split-ring lock washer:

 

 

Here is a side view looking between the top of the Pier Extension column and the underside of the M-Master mount:

 

 

I tried out this arrangement using a GSO 6” f/6 Newtonian that is heavier than the 4” f/7 ED refractor, and it works like a charm.  Both Altitude and Azimuth position adjustments are smooth and free from that “herky-jerkiness” that often plagues my M002C, especially in side-to-side Azimuth.  So far, I was able to track targets at 180x by simply guiding the Newt’s focuser along by hand.  I think I will be able to track targets at 281x the same way, but I’ll have to wait for the next clear night to try.

The Supermount M-series differ from the W-series in that they are made of metal rather than wood, (“M” vs. “W”), and they incorporate steel roller bearings to secure the Azimuth bushing rather than what I believe are Teflon inserts.  Both designs utilize thick, wide Teflon pads as bearing surfaces for the rotating parts. Here is the M-Master showing the underside of the upper rotating part with the steel roller bearing:

 

 

Like the M002C, these Supermount models seem to perform better when loaded down with larger and heavier scopes.  The position adjustments, especially in Azimuth, are smoother with less of that bothersome starting friction to overcome before the mount starts to move.

 

 

[Dave Novoselsky]

Very ingenious and very neatly executed.  My compliments to the Chef.

[Kasmos]

How is any of that a Classic?

[kjkrum]

There's this thread in Classics and the "What did you work on" thread in the ATM forum, and sometimes things people are proud of aren't the best fit for either. Perhaps there should be a "tinkering with modern scopes" thread somewhere... although that's what I tend to use the ATM thread for.

[k5apl]

 A couple of weeks ago, in the "What did you observe" thread, I noted a problem with my recently acquired Sears 4 6305A vintage refractor.  I saw red on one side of a bright object, and blue on the other side.  An out of focus star/point was distorted and the Airy disc was smeared to the side.

EDIT: And it didn't take magnification worth a flip

  Several comments were received and appreciated.  I am now reporting back that the Airy disc is target shaped and the red-blue colors are gone.  I accomplished three things:

1.  Shim the focuser draw tube to stop wobble and drooping

2.  Align the focuser to the tube using a laser and a cardboard objective mask with a pinhole in the middle

3.  Remove the objective spacer ring and replace it with three foil shims

The focuser mounting holes were reamed out enough to move the focuser to the best position, and I used flat washers and lock washers to secure it to the tube.  A variety packet of brass shims from Amazon let me fit the proper thickness in the drawtube to eliminate the wobble and keep it in line.  And, the foil was HVAC tape with glue on one side used as spacers- thinner than the ring

but evidently it works well for me.  Now the refractor plays like it should and I a happy with it.  A very poor performer is now very usable and well worth the time and effort put into it, thanks to the help and ideas from this forum.

Wes

Edited by k5apl, 01 April 2025 - 03:35 PM.

[CHASLX200]

Someone went ahead in time and came back to now 25 years later gators. So the scope is a classic in forward time.

Edited by CHASLX200, 01 April 2025 - 06:10 PM.

[ericb760]

I completed the "paint stick" crush mod on my C4.5. I used 3/4" 4/20 screws with a crush washer to secure the OTA to the mount. Seems pretty solid.

[ericb760]

 A couple of weeks ago, in the "What did you observe" thread, I noted a problem with my recently acquired Sears 4 6305A vintage refractor.  I saw red on one side of a bright object, and blue on the other side.  An out of focus star/point was distorted and the Airy disc was smeared to the side.

EDIT: And it didn't take magnification worth a flip

  Several comments were received and appreciated.  I am now reporting back that the Airy disc is target shaped and the red-blue colors are gone.  I accomplished three things:

1.  Shim the focuser draw tube to stop wobble and drooping

2.  Align the focuser to the tube using a laser and a cardboard objective mask with a pinhole in the middle

3.  Remove the objective spacer ring and replace it with three foil shims

The focuser mounting holes were reamed out enough to move the focuser to the best position, and I used flat washers and lock washers to secure it to the tube.  A variety packet of brass shims from Amazon let me fit the proper thickness in the drawtube to eliminate the wobble and keep it in line.  And, the foil was HVAC tape with glue on one side used as spacers- thinner than the ring

but evidently it works well for me.  Now the refractor plays like it should and I a happy with it.  A very poor performer is now very usable and well worth the time and effort put into it, thanks to the help and ideas from this forum.

Wes

At this point in my vintage gear hobby I re-space objectives nearly 100% of the time now, and have gotten pretty good at centering them so that there is a clear Bullseye right in the center of the lens.

[clamchip]

Today I soldered in a battery holder for a early Telrad with metal battery holder.

It can be confusing which white wire is + or - so I sharpened my pencil and made a wiring diagram.

Curious about the introduction date of the Telrad I looked it up, late 1970's. The model we see today

made from injection molded ABS and the dovetail mounting hit the market in 1982. 

Robert

 

Edited by clamchip, 01 April 2025 - 07:55 PM.

[Michael Covington]

Put little dabs of red nail polish on the positive wire and terminals in appropriate places.

Edited by Michael Covington, 01 April 2025 - 10:27 PM.

[clamchip]

I purchased and installed a Meade SCT visual back for my new Lomo 95mm Mak.

Standard 2"-24 threaded port, the Meade is a 1/4" shorter than my Celestron visual back and

closer to the missing Lomo unit.

This scope moves the primary for focus so I think its a good idea to try and keep the mirror 

spacing as designed by using a visual back as close to the original as possible.

I still find it difficult to believe you can move the primary as critical as the Mak mirror spacing

is. It's all about trade offs, you will sacrifice image quality to observe the bugs in your

garden or the chimney cap on your neighbor's house.

 

Robert

[Bomber Bob]

I started restoring my Mizar KAISER EQ MT Head today...  Overall, excellent condition.  Looks like it's been in storage for decades... Dust, old grease smears, etc.

 

I spent the first hour on the Box Lid / Upper Half.  Literally falling apart.

 

It's a Large EQ:  Weighs 24#.  DEC Axis Casting is 60mm diameter.  The Counterweight Shaft is 18mm -- same as some of my Tak & Vixen weights...

 

 

The Guidescope is a 50mm F6 with helical focuser in a Heavy Cast Iron Bracket -- total weight is 5.5 pounds.  Looks like an air-spaced doublet.

 

It came with all .965" accessories:  Prism Diagonal, Herschel Wedge, 3 x Mizar Eyepieces, 1 x Takahashi 25mm Kellner (I'm keeping), and a Sun Filter.

Edited by Bomber Bob, 04 April 2025 - 03:14 PM.

[davidc135]

Bought a slightly scruffy 7x50 Tak finder and stalk for the FC-100. Unmatched colour and I've just got a bill for the darned 25% tariff. Oh well, still glad I bought it.  David

[Bomber Bob]

Mizar KAISER EQ Restore --  Center Brace:

 

 

Overall, the Kaiser is in VG to near-mint condition.  All I need to do is find some 1/2" wide dowels that'll slide into the Center Brace / Accessory Tray Support, and adapt these to the Vixen Tripod...

 

IF the local Home Depot doesn't have 1/2" threaded rods, or aluminum dowels, I'll order online.  A few years ago, I had to order 8mm aluminum dowels online for another project.  Pretty easy to cut to length, and tap / dress the ends as needed.

 

I may add a Safety Chain, too.  I don't plan on hauling this rig in & out often, but... plans can change.

 

(Oh!  What I thought from the Ad photo was a Bubble Level built into the pie pan turned out to be the tray's swivel bolt.)

 

 

[deSitter]

Mizar KAISER EQ Restore --  Center Brace:

 

Mizar KAISER EQ Restore S01 - Center Brace (BT FL).jpg Mizar KAISER EQ Restore S02 - Center Brace (BT FL).jpg

 

Overall, the Kaiser is in VG to near-mint condition.  All I need to do is find some 1/2" wide dowels that'll slide into the Center Brace / Accessory Tray Support, and adapt these to the Vixen Tripod...

 

IF the local Home Depot doesn't have 1/2" threaded rods, or aluminum dowels, I'll order online.  A few years ago, I had to order 8mm aluminum dowels online for another project.  Pretty easy to cut to length, and tap / dress the ends as needed.

 

I may add a Safety Chain, too.  I don't plan on hauling this rig in & out often, but... plans can change.

 

(Oh!  What I thought from the Ad photo was a Bubble Level built into the pie pan turned out to be the tray's swivel bolt.)

 

What a strange setup. I would get solid rods and thread them on one end. The other can easily be made to interact with any tripod.

 

What is the point of the tray swiveling?! That sounds like asking for trouble!

 

-drl

[Bomber Bob]

The tray swivels out of the way so that the 3 rods can be adjusted & locked inside the ring.  Yeah, I wouldn't put a Radian on the tray with it off-center!

[deSitter]

The tray swivels out of the way so that the 3 rods can be adjusted & locked inside the ring.  Yeah, I wouldn't put a Radian on the tray with it off-center!

 

Oh so they are not necessarily threaded. 

 

-drl

[CHASLX200]

I picked up the AP pier from my sis's bedroom and took it to the garage.  It is going to a new home jarome.

[Bomber Bob]

Oh so they are not necessarily threaded. 

 

-drl

Right.  I've only seen a couple of KAISER tripod sets.  IIRC, a rod swings down from each leg, and slides into the Center Brace, which has thumbscrews to lock each rod in place.

[Bomber Bob]

Got all the parts ordered to make my version of the Kaiser Center Brace:  

 

- 3 x Black Anodized Steel U-Brackets that fit between the tripod legs.  These already have a 3/8-16 threaded center hole, so...

- 3/8-16 x 24" stainless steel Threaded Rod + washers & nuts.  I'll cover the exposed length with either a black vinyl sleeve, or chrome tubing / piping.

- 6 x 1/4-20 stainless steel Hex Bolts (with steel & black vinyl washers), plus spring washers, and hex nuts.  3 bolts for the upper leg holes / rod brackets, and 3 for the lower holes (extra bracing for the upper half of the legs).

 

I decided against 1/2" solid aluminum rods.  Too much carving & shaping to fit these U-Brackets (the ONLY ones I found that'll fit between the legs).

 

Like the originals, I can swing these up and out of the way, then fold and tote the tripod.  Should make this a very stable base.  In fact, I may wind up using this mount often -- it carries the Dakin 4 very well.