
What did you do to your Scope/Mount Today?
#10151
Posted 01 May 2025 - 05:58 PM
- clamchip and steve t like this
#10152
Posted 01 May 2025 - 06:02 PM
Moved another OTA to paint a wall.
#10153
Posted 02 May 2025 - 11:03 AM
My new ETX-125EC suffered a catastrophic failure to Dec drive in the left fork and is why it was noted
in the seller's ad the drive doesn't work. Her son worked on it and is why the motor fell out, I think he
knew it was over for the poor scope and didn't put it back together completely.
It looks to me like the drive overpowered the stop and broke all the Dec motor mounts cast into the plastic
fork arm. I good reason not to lock down the clutch too tight on these early models, and also the reason
why Meade quickly made an aluminum skeletal framework for these mounts.
RA drive works great! I can slew at high speed, not that that will do me any good. And most importantly
I can track. Too bad but there's nothing I can do, it's not repairable.
Now the optical tube, there's nothing wrong with it and it is the whole reason I bought the crippled instrument.
It's the most beautiful anodized blue. These ETX are known for superb optics. This will be my 3rd 125. I haven't
hung on to them long in the past and I think this is because the f/15 focal ratio is a bit claustrophobic. No, that's
not the reason, I'm very accustom to f/15 with my love of the f/15 achromat. I think it's more because the
ETX is "easy come, easy go" meaning they are readily available and easy to sell, so when I have a panic attack
from too many telescopes the ETX are my first to go.
This one is going right to bench test, after I clean it up. I just know I'm going to see close to perfection. Although
it is a pretty rare sight to see a Spot Mak test perfect. The optics are the best they can be with what there is to
work with, the secondary figure is fixed and really cannot be figured independently. But even with this handicap
a Spot Mak is marvelous.
Robert
Here's what I'll probably end up doing to my new ETX-125EC, especially since I already own
the conversion parts and here it is all fitted up.
Wegat adapter to remove the factory control box. This adapter has a standard SCT thread so now
I have a Celestron visual back in place. https://wegatoptical.com/
Parallax 6 inch rings. The ETX-125 tube is 5.75" so 6" will work with extra felt, which I have done.
Losmandy D plate so I can mount to my Unistar alt/az.
It's hard to believe this little blue grub is a 5 inch f/15. I have included a photo of my Edmund 5 inch
f/15 for comparison.
Robert
I just bench tested (DPAC) and it's dead straight jail bars and no zones! now it gets fitted for a
dew shield and outside you go you beautiful blue grub!
Edited by clamchip, 02 May 2025 - 12:44 PM.
- CCD-Freak, Terra Nova, Bomber Bob and 4 others like this
#10154
Posted 02 May 2025 - 12:13 PM
I have been learning FreeCad to design my own parts. Here is another cap I printed for my 4.25" f/4 Coullter RFT that sits on the back on 13.1" Coulter. So no more plastic bag over the scope and worrying that insects or a mouse might get into it. The RFT was sold as a kit for $29.95 and the mirror was a sphere when I got it but I have refigured it to a parabola.
- Dave
- deSitter, Bomber Bob, Orion68 and 1 other like this
#10155
Posted 02 May 2025 - 01:47 PM
Here's what I'll probably end up doing to my new ETX-125EC, especially since I already own
the conversion parts and here it is all fitted up.
Wegat adapter to remove the factory control box. This adapter has a standard SCT thread so now
I have a Celestron visual back in place. https://wegatoptical.com/
Parallax 6 inch rings. The ETX-125 tube is 5.75" so 6" will work with extra felt, which I have done.
Losmandy D plate so I can mount to my Unistar alt/az.
It's hard to believe this little blue grub is a 5 inch f/15. I have included a photo of my Edmund 5 inch
f/15 for comparison.
Robert
I just bench tested (DPAC) and it's dead straight jail bars and no zones! now it gets fitted for a
dew shield and outside you go you beautiful blue grub!
I made a dew shield for mine from a Clancy's Pretzels plastic tub. This. Get at ALDI, cheap and good and the reinforced area fits nearly perfectly. I cut it down to 1-1 ratio, which is fine. It has a slight inward taper that is really good for combatting reflections.
-drl
- CCD-Freak, clamchip and Orion68 like this
#10156
Posted 02 May 2025 - 01:56 PM
I luvs the ETX line. I have at least one of each major model from the 60 to the 125. I love the wide field views of the 60/70/80 and the sharp, high contrast fields of the 90/105/125. They are all super compact and very portable. My ETX-125PE is the crown jewel of the series. I wonder if you could find a mount from someone who has deforked their 125.
I would also be interested in a base from a deforked one. Mine still has the original housing. Not surprised by Robert's optical report, and my 105 is probably even better than the 125. Maybe Questar should find out who was making these optics
-drl
Edited by deSitter, 02 May 2025 - 01:56 PM.
- ErnH2O likes this
#10157
Posted 02 May 2025 - 04:35 PM
I'm not sure how old mine is. Because the plastic mount does not have the internal aluminum frame
under the plastic it must be pretty early. Odd thing is though, it has UHTC coatings.
IC's on the RA board might be 2001. Copyrights on the two main boards are 1998 and 1999.
Early ETX-125's "Optics Made In USA" can be found printed on the retaining ring, mine does not say that.
Who ever made the optics in this one did a fine job, according to the DPAC test. It is absolutely dead
straight lines and just as smooth as can be, no zones, machining artifacts nothing.
Robert
#10158
Posted 02 May 2025 - 07:28 PM
I had to bench test my new ETX-125 again because I forgot to check the correction at other mirror
spacing. Mirror spacing has no effect on this DPAC test, it's perfect no matter where the spacing is! at least with
the limited range of mirror motion available to me. And that has me confused. The correct mirror spacing for a Mak is
measured in thousandth's of and inch. Maybe more information will show up when I star test shortly.
More than likely Meade made the optics in this telescope. And the optics would have been made here in the states, Mexico
or China. The history on this subject is cloudy and confusing, and complicated, because of the long length of production
for the ETX models. Without verified information I'll just leave models, dates, and places out of my post.
So everything turned out great. I can't repair the mount, which is a real bummer, but I have optics from heaven.
And no clamchips! and the most beautiful blue anodize you've ever seen. Lookin' good and I haven't even looked through
the telescope yet.
Robert
Edited by clamchip, 02 May 2025 - 11:52 PM.
- deSitter, tim53, CCD-Freak and 3 others like this
#10159
Posted 03 May 2025 - 01:01 PM
I've been working on my new Seattle Goodwill Lomo Astele 95.
Interesting construction used in this Mak. What amazes me is all the hand fitting of parts
from this huge company Lomo. Straight blade screw heads too.
The focuser was a little sticky and I could not find a thing online so I just treated
the focuser as I would a micrometer and lubed it as if it were one, tolerances much too
close for anything but a very light spindle oil.
Notice the rear port thread is standard SCT. Also notice the cover over the collimation
screw chamber. So far collimation seems ok but I have yet to test it on a star. Unbelievable
considering what this scope has gone thru, I basically brought it back from the dead.
I'm looking for mounting rings. The tube is 4.7" inch (120mm) same as a Astro-Physics
model so they are out there.
Robert
Great work! Always loved the look of the Asteles!
- clamchip likes this
#10161
Posted 03 May 2025 - 02:09 PM
Looks like good repair work on the floor and sheetrock.
Chip W.
#10163
Posted 03 May 2025 - 04:02 PM
I decided to take a closer look at my new ETX-125's mount problem. It drives me nuts when something
doesn't work. I bought the scope with this problem and I hoped it wasn't this bad.
The seller's son made an attempt to fix the problem and left out a vital part which was probably broken
and he tried to repair it and it was lost. This missing plastic part sandwiches around the motor and board
and mounts them both into the fork arm. You can see my motor and board are loose, nothing to hold them
in the arm.
This is ABS plastic and the perfect glue for it is ABS Cement, which I have, so I glued all the broken stuff.
The tube altitude down stop at the red arrow S was overpowered and failed to stop, breaking the Dec drive.
Worm adjust screw pad at red arrow W was broken out and I found the piece and glued it back.
I then soldered the Dec motor wires back on the motor and tested the system.
Everything works and all I need is the plastic housing that surrounds and holds the motor and board into the
fork arm. If someone has one or if plans are available to 3D print one I will pay or trade handsomely for it.
Robert
Edited by clamchip, 03 May 2025 - 04:08 PM.
- Bomber Bob, LU1AR and jkmccarthy like this
#10165
Posted 03 May 2025 - 05:05 PM
Moved some OTA's into my sis's room since i am done getting it back together since the cane.
look like Paradigm speakers.
#10166
Posted 03 May 2025 - 05:29 PM
look like Paradigm speakers.
Ya and SVS subs bubs.
Edited by CHASLX200, 04 May 2025 - 05:17 AM.
#10167
Posted 03 May 2025 - 06:14 PM
Today I totally started from scratch on my small refractor 3D printed rings. Instead of a 2 sided knob that can be hard to implement in certain situations, I went with a hinged design that's felt lined. This one is for 63mm OD tubes but I can make it any size I want.
It uses a 6-32 screw + lock nut for the hinge pin with a small 3D printed nylon washer for smooth friction. Captive 1/4-20 hex bolt in the bottom ring with a knob + captive nut to tension the 2 halves together. 1/4-20 attachments on the top and bottom for dovetail mounting and accessories. Very pleased with how this turned out!
- CCD-Freak, Terra Nova, Bomber Bob and 5 others like this
#10168
Posted 03 May 2025 - 06:39 PM
I like those brackets. Do you want to make another set?
Over the years, I have made my own brackets out of 1/2" aluminum. Here's a set for 60mm scopes that I recently added a new top section to them:
-I use these brackets to attach a 40mm finder.
My aluminum wasn't wide enough to make a hinged set like this 3" set:
-these brackets can hold a 60mm finder.
I've made quite a few sets of these aluminum brackets. I prefer to have hinges. The printed ones look lighter.
Edited by Garyth64, 03 May 2025 - 06:42 PM.
- deSitter, Terra Nova, Bomber Bob and 3 others like this
#10169
Posted 03 May 2025 - 07:30 PM
I've made quite a few sets of these aluminum brackets. I prefer to have hinges. The printed ones look lighter.
Those aluminum ones are really nice, I bet they're amazingly strong too, but probably heavier than the 3D printed ones. These come out to 148g (5.2oz) total for both rings, so only 2.6oz for each fully assembled ring.
- Garyth64 likes this
#10170
Posted 03 May 2025 - 07:53 PM
- Garyth64 likes this
#10171
Posted 03 May 2025 - 08:00 PM
Here's a video showing my 3D printer printing a pair of these; https://youtu.be/jb1...mb9vVkStoxbhMIm
- CCD-Freak and norvegicus like this
#10172
Posted 04 May 2025 - 06:40 AM
Here's a video showing my 3D printer printing a pair of these; https://youtu.be/jb1...mb9vVkStoxbhMIm
that is awesome. You guys are amazing. On the printer do you scan an existing piece first to make the copy?
#10173
Posted 04 May 2025 - 07:47 AM
that is awesome. You guys are amazing. On the printer do you scan an existing piece first to make the copy?
No, usually design it from scratch in a CAD software using basic shapes to build the object. They do have 3D scanners but they're fairly expensive and not as accurate for very precise mechanical parts. Typical accuracy of the 3d prints is about 0.1mm or about 4 thousandths.
#10174
Posted 04 May 2025 - 01:44 PM
Please keep your post focused on the topic of this thread.Any post that are missing were missing the topic.
- jragsdale likes this
#10175
Posted 04 May 2025 - 04:42 PM
I had to bench test my new ETX-125 again because I forgot to check the correction at other mirror
spacing. Mirror spacing has no effect on this DPAC test, it's perfect no matter where the spacing is! at least with
the limited range of mirror motion available to me. And that has me confused. The correct mirror spacing for a Mak is
measured in thousandth's of and inch. Maybe more information will show up when I star test shortly.
More than likely Meade made the optics in this telescope. And the optics would have been made here in the states, Mexico
or China. The history on this subject is cloudy and confusing, and complicated, because of the long length of production
for the ETX models. Without verified information I'll just leave models, dates, and places out of my post.
So everything turned out great. I can't repair the mount, which is a real bummer, but I have optics from heaven.
And no clamchips! and the most beautiful blue anodize you've ever seen. Lookin' good and I haven't even looked through
the telescope yet.
Robert
Be careful that you're not looking at an enlarged image of the ronchi screen off the flat. That's happened to me more times than I care to admit.