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What did you work on today?

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#5201 Augustus

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Posted 11 January 2021 - 05:31 PM

Added a small counterweight to the back of my 24" to fix slight top-heaviness along with a Talentcell battery to avoid cord wrap issues with my dew heaters.



#5202 Bob4BVM

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Posted 12 January 2021 - 03:03 AM

Added a small counterweight to the back of my 24" to fix slight top-heaviness along with a Talentcell battery to avoid cord wrap issues with my dew heaters.

Good for you Zane. I am also starting to use the high-current-density LiPo & LiIon packs on my scopes to free up the need for larger battery backs that i had corded connection to. Very liberating when the power supply is mounted right on the scope !

Currently i am looking at employing a 3S LiPo to run my entire binoscope at ~12 volts. Its a natural since i use these batteries in another hobby.  Also i recently tested a 3S/5000mAHr pack on my motorized binochair. I was a success, dragged my butt all over the skies for an entire night with charge to spare. Very nice to be rid of the big gelcell pack i was using, one less heavy thing to drag out for setup.

CS

Bob


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#5203 John Fitzgerald

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 06:21 PM

Made a counterweight for a 1.25 inch shaft from a barbell weight.  Weighs in at 3 pounds 3 ounces.

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#5204 don clement

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 06:28 PM

Made pieces of a clutch internal to the focuser knob from 5/32" black Delrin rod. The two pictures show holding the 5/32" Delrin rod in a 5C collet/block on the mill using a 9/16" end mill to create a 9/32" radius curve on the end of the rod. The rod  is one of three spring loaded rods that radially bear against a 9/16" diameter SS round clutch inside the focuser knob. The 5/32" delrin rod fits inside a 10-32  radial tapped hole and adjustment is using a 10-32 Hollow-Lock Set Screw that puts tension against a spring to the Delrin rod.

 

Don

 

IMG_7148Web.jpg

 

IMG_7147Web.jpg


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#5205 kjkrum

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Posted 16 January 2021 - 01:32 AM

Drilled and tapped a spare counterweight so it could be bolted to a clamshell and balance the mini Dob I cobbled together for the kids.

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#5206 Mike G.

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Posted 16 January 2021 - 06:17 PM

so, a few days ago I picked up a little non-branded 100mm Synta mak for cheap.  had it out last night to check the optics with my C6 and was pretty impressed - put up a very nice view of M42, split a few doubles nicely then the corrector frosted up on both scopes so I called it quits, but knew this was a nice little scope for the money.  unfortunately it did not come with much (note there is yet to be a finder on it) so being as I live where a dew shield is as necessary as an eyepiece, decided I would see what was around the house to fabricate one.  some time ago I had made a dewshield for my LB and somehow forgotten it on the deck when dragging everything in.  the next day was a nice warm summer day and my big Kydex dewshield absorbed a bit too much IR and lost all it's flatness, curling into a twisted mess.  I had saved it (being the packrat I am) and pulled it out thinking I could probably get enough flat ABS out of the remains to make a dewshield for the little Mak.  voila!  this stuff is pretty thin (0.028"?) so it cuts nicely with my wife's kitchen scissors (she was out of the house of course).

ds1.jpg

 

nice and flat.  not round so it will be a problem to hold its shape.  what to do?  I knew I needed to curl it and had my heat gun ready but thought it would end up uneven if I tried to do it that way.  had an idea, curl it inside a tube and heat it!  found an old packing tube I had saved, about 3" (remember, packrat?), cut off a piece and stuffed the curled kydex into the tube.

ds2.jpg

 

make sure the edges are nice and aligned...

ds3.jpg

 

just guessing, but I didn't want to set off the smoke alarms (the wife was home now) so set the oven for 175F and 15 minutes.

ds4.jpg

 

after 15 minutes took it out and let it cool.  the inner edge of the ABS had not formed well so I reversed the wrap of the sheet and put it back in for another 15 minutes. 

ds5.jpg

 

Perfect!  let's see how it works...

ds6.jpg

 

well, needs a bit more fiddling......

next slide...


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#5207 Mike G.

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Posted 16 January 2021 - 06:20 PM

needed to get the ends so they would hold tight together.  used a couple small bits of industrial grade velcro (thank you McMaster Carr) on the outer end and then a trusty rubber band to tighten up the tube end.

Done!

ds8.jpg

ds9.jpg

 

 


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#5208 charlieb123

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Posted 17 January 2021 - 10:25 AM

Attempting to limit the number of cords to and from my mount and my overwhelming need to do everything DIY,  I made a small power distribution box.

 

Red jack in, black jacks out. All devices on my mount are center positive.

Built from some spare jacks for a pedal project and a bunch of power cords.

Using a 5A power supply voltage drops to 11.9V with EAF and DEC and RA axis slewing at full speed.

 

Using the 4 port USB extender and PS distribution box I have just 2 cords to plug into my mount now.

Wire management is almost clean.

With this power distribution a battery powered setup will be "simple".

 

 

IMG-7649-dist.jpg

 

IMG-7650dist2.jpg

 

IMG-7651.jpg


Edited by charlieb123, 17 January 2021 - 10:31 AM.

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#5209 macdonjh

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Posted 17 January 2021 - 11:01 AM

Part 1 of 2:

 

I decided I didn't like the LW tripod which came with the Losmandy GM-8 I bought several months ago (thank you Cloudy Nights classifieds).  I took another Cloudy Nights member up on an offer to trade a Takahashi tripod for some cash.

 

Then I needed an adapter plate: 

Plate small.jpg

 

Then some assembly: 

Assembly small.jpg

 

More next...


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#5210 macdonjh

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Posted 17 January 2021 - 11:06 AM

Part 2 of 3

 

Then some more assembly: 

 

MA small.jpg

 

The large bolt is the center bolt holding the stock Losmandy MA (mount adapter) to my plate.  The smaller button-head screw is inserted through a hole I drilled in the MA and threads into a hole in my plate to prevent the MA from rotating.



#5211 macdonjh

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Posted 17 January 2021 - 11:09 AM

Part 3 of 3

 

This is mostly done.  One of my coworkers has a 3D printer so I'm going to ask if he's willing to make some bushings for me:  the bolt holes in the Takahashi wood legs are 1/2", the holes in the Losmandy tripod head are 3/8".  I used 3/8" bolts instead of drilling out the Losmandy parts.  I also need different 3/8" bolts, I mismeasured somehow and bought bolts 1/2" too long.  Finally, I need a spreader or accessory tray.  

 

Mount sma.jpg


Edited by macdonjh, 17 January 2021 - 11:10 AM.

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#5212 sunrag

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Posted 17 January 2021 - 05:09 PM

If you can call this work, I ordered this book "Telescope Optics" by Harrie G J Rutten. I saw this book on one of Ed Ting's Telescope reviews on YouTube.

 

51o592LTEpL._SY373_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg

 

Now I can find all the mistakes I have made with my ATM telescopes and fix them!


Edited by sunrag, 17 January 2021 - 05:22 PM.


#5213 oilmanmojo

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Posted 18 January 2021 - 08:50 PM

Nice work. I am trying to build something like this for my 16" rebuild. I am somewhat following a design outlined on Utube. One question, how did you get the aluminum tube connected to the ring? i am looking at either using star nuts or a glued cork with a T nut on the bottom to act like a jam nut. just curious how you did it.

oilmanmojo



#5214 Piero DP

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Posted 19 January 2021 - 04:13 AM

Nice work. I am trying to build something like this for my 16" rebuild. I am somewhat following a design outlined on Utube. One question, how did you get the aluminum tube connected to the ring? i am looking at either using star nuts or a glued cork with a T nut on the bottom to act like a jam nut. just curious how you did it.

oilmanmojo

 

Thanks :)

 

For that part I followed the description in Kriege's dobsonian telescope book, with the only exception that the recessed circle hosting the strut is 2 veneers deep (so ~ 2.4mm in my plywood) instead of 1/16" as suggested in the book.

 

To summarise:

- draw the rings on the panel (also draw where the holes on one ring where the struts will connect). You can draw one ring only, and then use a router profile bit to cut the second ring using the first ring as a template.

- cut the rings

- clamp the rings

- drill the holes for connecting the struts through both rings using a drill guide or drill press, so that the hole is orthogonal to the ring plane

- make the recessed circle using a forstner drill bit. I decided to make these 2 veneers deep because this seems easier to me as you can check the depth looking a the glue layer. Doing so, you can also make sure that the recessed circle is still orthogonal without using a guide or drill press.

- insert a star nut on each side of the struts

- insert the bolt through the ring and connect the strut. 

 

In my UTA, the upper truss attachments are right underneath the UTA struts. Doing so, the rings have the main function of connecting, rather than holding the weight of the components. 

 

If interested, you can find the photos of my project here: https://photos.app.g...8CqeRtJGe83jF8 

 

All the best,

Piero



#5215 Augustus

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Posted 19 January 2021 - 05:44 PM

Equalized the truss pole lengths on the 14.7" and tightened up the loose screws on its spider. 



#5216 John Fitzgerald

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Posted 19 January 2021 - 08:01 PM

From cast iron barbell weights, I made two more counterweights complete with fixing screws.  Drilled one out to 1 inch, the other to 1.25 inches.


Edited by John Fitzgerald, 19 January 2021 - 08:02 PM.


#5217 don clement

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 01:30 AM

Worked on shortening the length of  SS 10-32 set screws from 1/4" to 0.15" by mounting in a 5C emergency collet that had been tapped to 10-32 threads.

 

Don

 

IMG_7157Web.jpg


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#5218 Mike G.

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Posted 24 January 2021 - 12:52 PM

So, I never really cared for the focus knobs on Celestron SCT's.  it struck me the other day that the nice knobs that ADM makes for slo motion drives on alt-az mounts might be a workable option.  I really like them on my TW1 mount.  ordered a pair from ADM last week, got them yesterday and spent a few minutes today making the necessary modification which amounts to enlarging the hole from 1/4" to 1/2".

f2.jpg

 

sorry, mounted it before I took pics and then didn't want to take it back off.

 

f3.jpg

 

looks good, I think.  and should give finer control should we ever get skies that will require focusing again.

f1.jpg


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#5219 Eclipsed

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Posted 24 January 2021 - 01:36 PM

Added two mirror cooling fans to my 8 EdgeHD.  One pushes and one pulls and they seem to provide decent airflow as well as being almost silent.  The factory fine mesh filters stay on the scope, so hopefully there won't be a dirt problem.  12VDC at about 250ma total.

 

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  • Evo 8 Fans (2).jpg
  • Evo 8 Fans (1).jpg

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#5220 sunrag

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Posted 24 January 2021 - 02:07 PM

Made a replacement Display screen for my Autostar hand controller after it stopped working.

Now i just need to fold up the flex cable and stick both Autostar and the display module to a rigid backer plate.

After trying several Display modules which will fit inside the Autostar, i gave up on them since soldering 0.5mm or even 1mm contacts is impossible for me. This display has 2.54mm contacts so much easier to solder to a standard 0.1” pitch protoboard PCB.

97F62701-C9E0-4A37-8B72-9E74943EFD1B.jpeg


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#5221 matt_astro_tx

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Posted 24 January 2021 - 07:04 PM

Fresh tube paint inside and out this weekend. Tried Rustoleum rubberized black undercoat for the interior; hoping the rough texture will help absorb strays. Reassembled and collimated for clear skies tomorrow night.



#5222 matt_astro_tx

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Posted 24 January 2021 - 07:04 PM

Fresh tube paint inside and out this weekend. Tried Rustoleum rubberized black undercoat for the interior; hoping the rough texture will help absorb strays. Reassembled and collimated for clear skies tomorrow night.

 

I’m in the process of upgrading this 30 year old mount. But it’s still going strong for now. 

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Edited by matt_astro_tx, 24 January 2021 - 07:05 PM.

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#5223 alval

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Posted 24 January 2021 - 11:09 PM

The latest of a few modifications on my ETX125, I finally finished my plan C two speed focuser to replace plan B. Plan B was a two diameter focus knob, C is a 6:1 two speed focuser using a small planetary reduction drive which need major modification to work. Large knob 1:1 and small knob 6:1, with the added bush for the shaft makes for smooth focusing. Quite satisfying I must admit.

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#5224 DAVIDG

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 01:36 PM

Made a replacement Display screen for my Autostar hand controller after it stopped working.

Now i just need to fold up the flex cable and stick both Autostar and the display module to a rigid backer plate.

After trying several Display modules which will fit inside the Autostar, i gave up on them since soldering 0.5mm or even 1mm contacts is impossible for me. This display has 2.54mm contacts so much easier to solder to a standard 0.1” pitch protoboard PCB.

attachicon.gif97F62701-C9E0-4A37-8B72-9E74943EFD1B.jpeg

 Very nice !  Is this for the 14 pin or 24 pin displays ? I see that they also make a negative display module , ie red letters on a  black background like the original.

 

            - Dave 



#5225 sunrag

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 03:58 PM

 Very nice !  Is this for the 14 pin or 24 pin displays ? I see that they also make a negative display module , ie red letters on a  black background like the original.

 

            - Dave 

Dave, this is for the 14 pin display. 

The photo does not show clearly, but it is Red text on black background like the original.




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