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[DIY] Astro CCD 16-bit Color 6Mpx Camera

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1204 replies to this topic

#626 karlfoxman

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Posted 05 February 2016 - 10:14 AM

Nice tips guys! Well I have opened the D70 and D70s and it's in fact very easy. Only one side has pads for solder so it's much easier to remove that I thought. I have lots of various flux products and chip quick is really good stuff. Also used to remove fine pitch qfp and tqfp. Thanks again.

#627 Toups

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Posted 05 February 2016 - 11:05 AM

 

Hi,

 

I removed the sensor from a D70 by first mixing the solder with a low-melting alloy (this ensures the melting temp of the mixture is very low), then quickly heating 2-3 pins and while still holding the tip of the iron on the molten mixture, you can use a short burst of compressed air to blow the mixture away. It is safe and really quick (one sensor in less than 5 minutes!)

 

Nico

Specifically, there is a product called ChipQuick that works well: http://www.amazon.co...l/dp/B0019UZP7I

I have used it to safely swap out fine pitched 144 pin TQFP chips.

 

Very nice suggestion!

I wasn't aware of this product. 

 

Do I want/need a different solder tip to avoid cross-contamination?



#628 BillyJ

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Posted 05 February 2016 - 04:24 PM

Hi,

first of all, my congratulations for sharing such an interesting and detailed project.

I was evaluating a modified dslr, but after discovering this project I would like to try this camera.

I have done my best reading the whole 26 pages of this thread, I would like to ask a few questions just to be sure:

-What is the currrent working release of the board? I know it is still a work in progress project, but if I get one, will it work?

-The d40/d70 Nikon are the ones where it is easier to remove the sensor, is this correct?

-Where/who can make one of this board? Are the schematic/board files available if I find someone that makes the pcb? What about the components, do I have to solder them, or there are services who do that too?

-What are the best enclosure options?

I am really interested in getting one, I like this project very much.

Thank you very much.



#629 hippieua

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Posted 05 February 2016 - 11:56 PM

- rectangle , which is described on the very first page

- don't remember actually, ;) the easiest are that with flex pcb, D40 for sure, dont remember for D70

- download gerbers from the first page, go to seeedstudio and order production in couple clicks

- described on first page



#630 BillyJ

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Posted 06 February 2016 - 08:38 AM

Hi,

did someone order from seedstudio the already assembled board (uploading the bom as .csv) or you ordered all the parts and soldered yourself?

Thanks



#631 hippieua

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Posted 06 February 2016 - 04:03 PM

Hi,

did someone order from seedstudio the already assembled board (uploading the bom as .csv) or you ordered all the parts and soldered yourself?

Thanks

 

Lol, no =) you should assemble it by yourself =)



#632 Toups

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Posted 06 February 2016 - 09:04 PM

-The d40/d70 Nikon are the ones where it is easier to remove the sensor, is this correct?

 

D40 and D50 are on the flex board.  This certainly makes it easier to remove.  You can remove the chip a pin at a time as opposed to having all the pins released at the same time.

 

The D70 and D70s are on a hard pc board. 

 

I recently picked up a D70s board and will attempt tor remove the sensor.  In order to increase the chance of success, I ordered the "ChipQuik SMD1 Leaded Low Temperature Removal Kit"  This can be found on Amazon or DigiKey.  (Digikey also has no lead variant FWIW.)  See post http://www.cloudynig...25#entry7038379 and those near it for more information.

 

You probably want the Removal Kit in case you make a mistake building your board.  I lifted some pads trying to remove some chips (but that was with a cheap pencil iron. I've since invested in a good temperature controlled soldering station.)  The other thing to investigate is the use of a hot air embossing tool as a cheap hot air soldering tool.  There is a very interesting write up on soldering SMD at http://store.curious...Soldering/Tools that I wish I had seen before I started my project.


Edited by Toups, 06 February 2016 - 09:04 PM.


#633 Toups

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 11:29 AM

Just a P.S. to my previous post, the D40x camera sensor is a different chip from the one in the D40, D50, D70 and D70s cameras.



#634 ahend

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 03:16 PM

I would like to find out if there is any interest in sharing the cost of manufacturing the original rectangular PCB. Any takers?



#635 glend

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 04:04 PM

I would like to find out if there is any interest in sharing the cost of manufacturing the original rectangular PCB. Any takers?

Are you talking about manufacturing to sell, or produce a product; or manufacturing to get one for your personal use in bulding a camera? 



#636 ahend

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 05:38 PM

 

I would like to find out if there is any interest in sharing the cost of manufacturing the original rectangular PCB. Any takers?

Are you talking about manufacturing to sell, or produce a product; or manufacturing to get one for your personal use in bulding a camera? 

 

I'm talking about placing an order with a PCB house for 5 or 10 boards and want to know if anyone is interested in sharing the cost. 



#637 SkinnyUK

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 05:27 PM

Hi,

 

I've an update on my ccd build. I've placed all the power supplies U1 - U6 as per post #6. Unfortunately I think something has gone wrong. On powering up there was an electronic high pitched hum. The voltage at U1 was correct at -8V and +15V. The sound stopped and now they are different.

I have the following measurements.

S1=S0=SDA=SLK=SL=SL2=S2=WR#=2.73V

+15V=5.56V

-8V=zero

5V3=5.7V

 

U2 seems odd as i'm reading 12V in but have a zero voltage reading at IC8

 

Any advice and help would be appreciated. Its tough but i'm still very much enjoying the project.

 

Best regards,

Daniel



#638 hippieua

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 06:16 PM

Any advice and help would be appreciated. Its tough but i'm still very much enjoying the project.

 

What's your PCB version ?



#639 SkinnyUK

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Posted 09 February 2016 - 06:22 PM

 

What's your PCB version ?

Hi there,

 

It's V0.41.

 

I've desoldered C21/C22 to check the capacitance and they look ok. Although I may replace them with Vishay versions.

 

IMG_2587.jpg

 

Best regards,

Daniel



#640 pbunn

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Posted 09 February 2016 - 08:48 PM

I would  be interested in sharing the cost of several PC boards.



#641 Dynamicp

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Posted 10 February 2016 - 05:05 PM

Hey Guys! I want in!! I read all pages and now iterested to purchase all items. Can someone point me to the items to purchase.

 

Thanks,



#642 gregj888

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Posted 10 February 2016 - 10:15 PM

hippieua,

 

How is the latest round board coming?  The round board would be much easier to house...

 

Thx

 

Greg



#643 Dynamicp

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 01:51 AM

Hey All..I just bought my D70s chip and would like advise on buying the remainder of parts and board needed.

 

Thanks!



#644 Dynamicp

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 01:52 AM

 

 

I would like to find out if there is any interest in sharing the cost of manufacturing the original rectangular PCB. Any takers?

Are you talking about manufacturing to sell, or produce a product; or manufacturing to get one for your personal use in bulding a camera? 

 

I'm talking about placing an order with a PCB house for 5 or 10 boards and want to know if anyone is interested in sharing the cost. 

 

I am interested...



#645 Toups

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 07:06 AM

Hey All..I just bought my D70s chip and would like advise on buying the remainder of parts and board needed.

 

Thanks!

 

Regarding parts orders, check out these previous posts and see http://astronomy.toups.info/

 

http://www.cloudynig...dpost&p=6933775

 

Note I had to order some replacement parts and found that http://www.newark.com/ had a much better price on capacitors but Digikey was better on some other parts.  Note CXD1267AN-N will have to be ordered somewhere else.  I was able to get some on e-Bay.

 

Regarding socketing the CCD see the following.

 

http://www.cloudynig...dpost&p=6905960



#646 kalalaa

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 11:54 AM

My Cam84. The white spots on the coating is thermal grease from my fingers. I will wash it down. :) Now i can only cool it 20°C below ambient, but the two stage TEC on the way.

There is a glass on front of the sensor with a coating and only 0.8% reflection. There is 2 silica gel in the box so no dew, and the front glass is heated because the warmer aluminium box heating it.

cam84_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg


Edited by kalalaa, 12 February 2016 - 12:02 PM.

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#647 ahend

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 11:59 AM

My Cam84. The white spots on the coating is thermal grease from my fingers. I will wash it down. :) Now i can only cool it 20°C below ambient, but the two stage TEC on the way.

 

 

 

Way to go Kalalaa, nice work!



#648 SkinnyUK

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 06:28 PM

 

My Cam84. The white spots on the coating is thermal grease from my fingers. I will wash it down. :) Now i can only cool it 20°C below ambient, but the two stage TEC on the way

 

Brilliant work! It looks great and I like the embedded heatsink fan. How are you controlling the TEC? Do you have a picture of the inside?

 

Hope to push forward with my Cam84 soon,

 

Best regards,

Daniel



#649 kalalaa

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 08:52 PM

Thanks!

Sorry but i don't have any picture of the inside, and i don't want to open it because the dry air in the sealed box. One USB is the camera and the other is the cooler. I used the cooler schematic from astroccd, but i redesigned it to fit. The TEC PWM noise is visible in the frames but only below 30%, above that no noise. The cooler is always above 30% so no problem.



#650 ccdmaker

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Posted 14 February 2016 - 12:00 AM

Thanks!

Sorry but i don't have any picture of the inside, and i don't want to open it because the dry air in the sealed box. One USB is the camera and the other is the cooler. I used the cooler schematic from astroccd, but i redesigned it to fit. The TEC PWM noise is visible in the frames but only below 30%, above that no noise. The cooler is always above 30% so no problem.

kalalaa,

In my original camera design, I simply turned off the TEC (but kept the fan going going) during the CCD readout. That way, there was no PWM induced noise leaking into the analog chain. Once the readout is complete, the TEC can be switched in again and remain on during integration. The CCD temperature will go up slightly during readout, but the temperature control servo will rapidly drag it back to the target value after the TEC is switched back in. In any event if you can tweak your code to do this it might be worth a try.

RK




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