1226 replies to this topic

[steveastrouk]

................I didn't use a stencil and that would have helped a lot as would solder paste that hadn't expired :-).

 

Store your paste in the refrigerator or freezer, it lasts MUCH longer

[gregj888]

steveastrouk-  I did and it was unopened in the sealed bag, but 2012 is a lot to ask :-)  I did check it for solderability, worked fine, just kind of migrated over the course of a couple of days.  For others, I suggest a stencil and fresher paste. 

 

Only concern so far is U1.  I tried to fill the holes before placing which was probably a mistake.  It did reflow early, so hope there's a good back side connection and no shorts, but it's not down on the board quite like I would expect.  Again, the stencil would solve this.  I was able to hand solder the pins that appeared open with no problem... will check thoroughly before applying power.

 

https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59

 

After checking 4 Goodwill stores, I got the $18 Walmart skillet which only goes to 400 on the dial, but overshoots nicely.  Didn't know it when I purchased... need to check, you want at least 425. 

[Rich_B]

I realize this might be beyond the scope of a single camera build but if you're into electronics as a hobby, buying a cheap reflow oven is much better than the skillet stuff. For something over a hundred you can buy a T-962 shipped to your door . It may seem expensive comparing to a $20 skillet but if you ruin just one project with the skillet , the oven would pay for itself with the savings. And yes, store the pste in the fridge . When you need to use it, let it warm up to room temp before using , then stir it until it's homogenized , otherwise it won't work .

[pbunn]

Reviews on those ovens are not all that good. In fact most that I have seen are pretty bad. The T962A is better and also more expensive,  but also is said to burn boards and many suggest a replacement heat controller getting the price near $700.

[gregj888]

Rich,  

 

I didn't know about the T-962 (~$200) and with a few hacks seems to do a better job... good find in any case.

 

The skillet worked really well (so far, no electrical test)  for a one-off and for the few builds I do, will probably be my method of choice.  That will change if I cooked a bunch of the components of course stay tuned.

 

It turns out there's an open lab at one of the local universities with a bigger/better reflow oven and rework station.  If my U1 looks iffy, I'll take it down and rework it there.

[aexeler]

Hello @ all,

I have found this great project and I would like to build it.

But I have still a few questions:

Is the project still working on?

The price of the parts are about 70€, right?

(and a D70 CCD Chip)

The price of the PCB and a place to make it?

The Case (is the round one ready?), How to build?

Is the Cooling ready to build, what about dew?

Is there some dxf-file to build the case on a CNC-machine?

What kind of connection to the Scope? M48, T2?

Is the adjust for the ccd in the case (tilt ,shift) possible without a optic-labor?

 

I can solder, and have some electric-skill, but no big mechanical (and machine), so the case, had to be built for me, or i need help there.

 

Thanks for help

Andreas

sorry for my bad englich!!!

Edited by aexeler, 15 April 2016 - 03:36 AM.

[gehelem]

Is the project still working on?

Yes, regarding recent posts, i think we are a few ones to build it at the moment

including me : i'm beginning my 3rd attempt   my 2 other failed for many reasons, say "learning curve"

 

The price of the parts are about 70€, right?

Personnal advice :

Yes and no. The price of this project shouldn't be considered, as you certainly fail at some points

 

The Case (is the round one ready?), How to build?

Keep it simple ! use Gainta G107/108 boxes !

Yes there were attempts with a round board and case, but no news for a while

Stay on the rectangle

 

Is the Cooling ready to build, what about dew?

Is there some dxf-file to build the case on a CNC-machine?

Read the first post, or check here :

http://astroccd.org/2015/04/cam84/

=> No cooling in the project itself, but the author gives that :

http://astroccd.org/...03/tec_control/

 

What kind of connection to the Scope? M48, T2?

This is where it's fun : choose you own

 

I can solder, and have some electric-skill

You'll need "SMD Skill", especially for that **** U1 (QFN TPS65130)

 

Regards,

GLM

[gehelem]

About socketing the CCD, there was this (Thx Toups)

https://www.digikey....90488-ND/474399

But it's really expensive (~6€ need 2)

 

But there are also these :

https://www.digikey....1067-ND/3757317

~2€ need only one

https://www.digikey....1068-ND/3757318

~3€ need only one

 

I've just ordered them, will try to cut them in half.

Will keep informed

Edited by gehelem, 19 April 2016 - 05:56 AM.

[gregj888]

Gehelem

 

I didn't check the others but ND/474399 is apparently Beryllium-Copper. 

 

Beryllium-Copper has a thermal conductivity of 38 vs copper is 223 - k -(Btu/(hr oF ft)).  Si if you are cooling the senor, quite an advantage using a Beryllium-Copper socket.

 

BTW, I knew about Manginin but not Beryllium-Copper...  great suggestion mdavister !!!

Edited by gregj888, 19 April 2016 - 03:58 PM.

[gehelem]

Good point
Will think about it when my board will work
For now, it's the third pair i buy, i only find it usefull to test with/without/replace ccd (got 2)

Edited by gehelem, 19 April 2016 - 02:33 PM.

[glend]

 

Is the project still working on?

Yes, regarding recent posts, i think we are a few ones to build it at the moment

including me : i'm beginning my 3rd attempt   my 2 other failed for many reasons, say "learning curve"

 

The price of the parts are about 70€, right?

Personnal advice :

Yes and no. The price of this project shouldn't be considered, as you certainly fail at some points

 

The Case (is the round one ready?), How to build?

Keep it simple ! use Gainta G107/108 boxes !

Yes there were attempts with a round board and case, but no news for a while

Stay on the rectangle

 

Is the Cooling ready to build, what about dew?

Is there some dxf-file to build the case on a CNC-machine?

Read the first post, or check here :

http://astroccd.org/2015/04/cam84/

=> No cooling in the project itself, but the author gives that :

http://astroccd.org/...03/tec_control/

 

What kind of connection to the Scope? M48, T2?

This is where it's fun : choose you own

 

I can solder, and have some electric-skill

You'll need "SMD Skill", especially for that **** U1 (QFN TPS65130)

 

Regards,

GLM

 

 

Seriously, this is the sort of commentary that has driven so many people away from this project. What the heck is "SMD" and why do you feel it is necessary to use insider jargon to explain something? 

[steveastrouk]

Seriously, this is the sort of commentary that has driven so many people away from this project. What the heck is "SMD" and why do you feel it is necessary to use insider jargon to explain something? 

 

 

Surface Mount Device. Its no more "insider" than CCD, or USB.

[gehelem]

@glend
Is this just about SMD or my all answer ??

[karlfoxman]

My father and I now have the parts to built two complete cameras. We found removing ccd from the nikkon was best using paint thinners and slowly removing the epoxy from the 3 small holes. After a soak of a few hours they came off the heat sink easily!

 

We checked each ccd under microscope for possible damage to the small wires inside the ccd.

 

The parts were all sourced from mouser and farnell, the boards were manufactured by pcb train.

 

Mounting the lens or to attach to telescope I turned some aluminium to give a m42 0.75mm pitch threaded flange. I will also turn a c mount adaptor to use with some testing lenses after more calculations of the focal point.

 

Cooling wise I designed and am building a board 60mm x 60mm square pcb..this will have the following on board. Tec controller, 4 port usb hub and guider. One usb socket spare for some other equipment like guide camera. The metal boxes we found some equivalent by multicomp.

[karlfoxman]

 

All will be hand soldered with my 0.3mm solder, apart from the power pad of the qfn ic, this will be done with my hot air unit. 

[aexeler]

Hi karlfoxman,

it is possible to get the Gerber (or Eagle) file of your Tec-Cooling PCB?

It's a good looking PCB...

Thanks

Andreas

[karlfoxman]

It's not been produced yet but when it's tested ok then yeah I will supply gerber files for you all.

[aexeler]

Hi,

that´s great!

Thanks

Andreas

[gregj888]

At 8:55pm pacific time April 28th a new Cam 84 was born.  Camera and builder are both doing fine... :-)

 

hippieua, very nice project, thank you for sharing.

[kalalaa]

gregj888:

Congratulations! I wait for the undersky results....

[vakulenko_sergiy]

ASCOM driver has been updated for cam84 camera: 

http://astroccd.org/..._v1.0_setup.zip

 

Whats new:

- baudrate adjustment (can be usefull for old slow PC's);

- "slow cooling" capability;

[vakulenko_sergiy]

And my new image from cam8: 252P\Linear, 21x180s, SW ED80 PRO + 0.85x SW FFR, NEQ6, guide SW 50x9 finder and CAM10.

Fullsize: http://blog.astroccd...6_linearg35.jpg

 

Comet motion animation:

http://blog.astroccd...w-animation.gif

[karlfoxman]

Well good news, after 6 hours work I can confirm this project works 100%. I had no issues building and after checking voltages it fired up and I got my test image. Will post some photos today later. Thanks 😀

[ahend]

Well good news, after 6 hours work I can confirm this project works 100%. I had no issues building and after checking voltages it fired up and I got my test image. Will post some photos today later. Thanks

 

Great to hear, well done! Eager to see your results.

[ahend]

And my new image from cam8: 252P\Linear, 21x180s, SW ED80 PRO + 0.85x SW FFR, NEQ6, guide SW 50x9 finder and CAM10.

 

Fullsize: http://blog.astroccd...6_linearg35.jpg

 

Comet motion animation:

http://blog.astroccd...w-animation.gif

 

Wow, what a great shot. In your use of CAM10, did you simply target LINEAR and let it control tracking?