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[DIY] Astro CCD 16-bit Color 6Mpx Camera

astrophotography ccd DIY equipment imaging
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1236 replies to this topic

#1226 UWastronomer

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Posted 29 May 2020 - 11:11 PM

I think it may have been because it was in such close contact to the regulator it got hot from proximity. Going to check voltage and:

 

3.309v. Not getting warm since adding the heatsink.

 

Here is my current roadblock, see attached. I hope I have a compatible eeprom?

Attached Thumbnails

  • Capture.JPG
  • 20200529_214110~2.jpg

Edited by UWastronomer, 29 May 2020 - 11:43 PM.


#1227 gregj888

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Posted 30 May 2020 - 12:39 AM

Good, that sounds OK.  

 

If you have a scope or logic probe you can check the eprom on startup.   I think that's the only time it's read.

 

I don't see anything in the photo to question that all looks OK if DD2 isn't cooked.

 

I had an issue with the Cam-84 in that I had the USB data lines reversed.  I don't know if that's a possibility here or not. 


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#1228 UWastronomer

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Posted 05 June 2020 - 01:55 PM

I'm reading something about a test pin on the FTDI chip needing to go to ground... Is that something I need to look at?

 

Near as I can tell, my data lines are fine, unless you are referencing the lines on the board. Maybe I have a slightly different chip or eeprom and the data signals aren't going the right direction.

 

edits: I have checked the org pin, it is set high at 3.3v so it should be operating in word rather than bit mode. The DC (don't connect) lead is connected to... ground with a cap between it and vcc. Still checking the connections...

 

There is a notch on the upper left of the image of the chip, and also the bevel indicating pin 1-4, I have placed it on the PCB correctly. Ground is to the lower right. No regular dot or crescent on the edge like I am used to seeing in pictures of other Atmel eeproms. I hope I don't have a counterfeit. I got it from a different retailer than an official distributor like Digikey or Mouser.

 

Hmm, no EEPROM detected per FT_prog:

 

Perhaps I should switch out to the Microchip brand equivalent, try out my third EEPROM before that?

 

 

BTW, what is the capacity of this camera to drive a peltier module? 

Attached Thumbnails

  • WIN_20200605_12_52_38_Pro.jpg
  • noeep.JPG

Edited by UWastronomer, 05 June 2020 - 10:20 PM.


#1229 gregj888

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 01:21 PM

I assume you re-flashed the eeprom (ROM) after changing it?

 

I would re-flash a time or two before doing anything else.  I can't offer guidance, it's been too long since I did mine.  If it doesn't flash then power supply, FTDI or eeprom most likely.

 

The message says to me the eeprom needs to be flashed.

 

Greg



#1230 UWastronomer

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Posted 18 June 2020 - 05:02 PM

The eeprom was bad... got a new one from microchip, it took the programming,

 

but wait there's more.

 

I discovered I bought the wrong Atmega328 chip.... undecided.gif

Project needs an ATMEGA328P-AU, not an ATMEGA328PB.

Back to the Digikey order form, either that or figure out how to make the chip I have attached work.

 

Looking forward to getting the peltier working, lowest temperature I saw on it before condensation brought it back up was -7F. Rated for 15.4V and 3 amps. Draws 2 amps at 12v. Trying to decide on what cpu cooling fan I will go with..

Attached Thumbnails

  • OOPS.png
  • img_thermal_1592523853611.jpg

Edited by UWastronomer, 18 June 2020 - 06:50 PM.

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#1231 gregj888

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Posted 19 June 2020 - 11:22 PM

If you can high impendence pins 3 and 6 maybe.  You would need to get into the firmware and make sure this and everything sels is setup correctly.

 

Likely easier to order a new processor...



#1232 UWastronomer

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Posted 21 June 2020 - 12:48 PM

And we have an image!

I've heavily compressed the image, I just threw some stuff on the sensor to create a dark area to ensure it is getting an image. Seems to work, Not sure how much tuning it will need, going to get onto that next "weekend"

 

Gimp couldn't make sense of some of the data, I am sure I will figure it out. I think it was either the red or blue channel, horizontal dark lines were made in the image when zoomed in, without bayer processing.

Attached Thumbnails

  • test0.jpg

Edited by UWastronomer, 21 June 2020 - 12:49 PM.

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#1233 gregj888

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Posted 21 June 2020 - 05:05 PM

Did you need a different processor of did the one yo have work?



#1234 UWastronomer

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Posted 21 June 2020 - 06:14 PM

I used the proper atmega processor. I picked the basic ground shipping option at Digikey, got here in a day and a half with usps.

 

Any thoughts on another image I have tested? Looks like some noise. I think I have some probing to do, and more rereading translated websites.

Attached Thumbnails

  • testing.JPG

Edited by UWastronomer, 22 June 2020 - 01:13 AM.

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#1235 UWastronomer

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Posted 26 June 2020 - 03:03 PM

A little tweaking to the quality of my soldering joints... thank you so much everyone! It is functional! No lines! No errors in the image. Never have I been so excited about the picture of twist tie.

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  • itsworking.JPG

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#1236 UWastronomer

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Posted 09 July 2020 - 12:11 PM

Ok, I've updated the firmware to the latest version from github:

 

It is working. Ish. I get pictures from "astrophotography tool" just fine. The ascom driver loads fine.

 

Now the darned 3.3v regulator has blown out again.... Argh!

 

Anyway, a new one with higher current capacity is on order.

 

I am going to run a separate mosfet switch to drive the peltier. The one onboard just isnt enough. I am running a much more powerful peltier (double stack) so...

 

any words of wisdom on wiring the peltier power to the mosfet?

 

I guess I will be making the main power supply tonight instead of testing the camera more.


Edited by UWastronomer, 09 July 2020 - 12:37 PM.

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#1237 gregj888

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Posted 12 July 2020 - 12:30 AM

UW, just remember you can't go below dew-point with the sensor.  That is the dew-point in the vicinity of the sensor so dry gas or a vacuum.

 

Greg




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