1242 replies to this topic

[UWastronomer]

I think it may have been because it was in such close contact to the regulator it got hot from proximity. Going to check voltage and:

 

3.309v. Not getting warm since adding the heatsink.

 

Here is my current roadblock, see attached. I hope I have a compatible eeprom?

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Edited by UWastronomer, 29 May 2020 - 11:43 PM.

[gregj888]

Good, that sounds OK.  

 

If you have a scope or logic probe you can check the eprom on startup.   I think that's the only time it's read.

 

I don't see anything in the photo to question that all looks OK if DD2 isn't cooked.

 

I had an issue with the Cam-84 in that I had the USB data lines reversed.  I don't know if that's a possibility here or not. 

[UWastronomer]

I'm reading something about a test pin on the FTDI chip needing to go to ground... Is that something I need to look at?

 

Near as I can tell, my data lines are fine, unless you are referencing the lines on the board. Maybe I have a slightly different chip or eeprom and the data signals aren't going the right direction.

 

edits: I have checked the org pin, it is set high at 3.3v so it should be operating in word rather than bit mode. The DC (don't connect) lead is connected to... ground with a cap between it and vcc. Still checking the connections...

 

There is a notch on the upper left of the image of the chip, and also the bevel indicating pin 1-4, I have placed it on the PCB correctly. Ground is to the lower right. No regular dot or crescent on the edge like I am used to seeing in pictures of other Atmel eeproms. I hope I don't have a counterfeit. I got it from a different retailer than an official distributor like Digikey or Mouser.

 

Hmm, no EEPROM detected per FT_prog:

 

Perhaps I should switch out to the Microchip brand equivalent, try out my third EEPROM before that?

 

 

BTW, what is the capacity of this camera to drive a peltier module? 

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Edited by UWastronomer, 05 June 2020 - 10:20 PM.

[gregj888]

I assume you re-flashed the eeprom (ROM) after changing it?

 

I would re-flash a time or two before doing anything else.  I can't offer guidance, it's been too long since I did mine.  If it doesn't flash then power supply, FTDI or eeprom most likely.

 

The message says to me the eeprom needs to be flashed.

 

Greg

[UWastronomer]

The eeprom was bad... got a new one from microchip, it took the programming,

 

but wait there's more.

 

I discovered I bought the wrong Atmega328 chip....

Project needs an ATMEGA328P-AU, not an ATMEGA328PB.

Back to the Digikey order form, either that or figure out how to make the chip I have attached work.

 

Looking forward to getting the peltier working, lowest temperature I saw on it before condensation brought it back up was -7F. Rated for 15.4V and 3 amps. Draws 2 amps at 12v. Trying to decide on what cpu cooling fan I will go with..

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Edited by UWastronomer, 18 June 2020 - 06:50 PM.

[gregj888]

If you can high impendence pins 3 and 6 maybe.  You would need to get into the firmware and make sure this and everything sels is setup correctly.

 

Likely easier to order a new processor...

[UWastronomer]

And we have an image!

I've heavily compressed the image, I just threw some stuff on the sensor to create a dark area to ensure it is getting an image. Seems to work, Not sure how much tuning it will need, going to get onto that next "weekend"

 

Gimp couldn't make sense of some of the data, I am sure I will figure it out. I think it was either the red or blue channel, horizontal dark lines were made in the image when zoomed in, without bayer processing.

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Edited by UWastronomer, 21 June 2020 - 12:49 PM.

[gregj888]

Did you need a different processor of did the one yo have work?

[UWastronomer]

I used the proper atmega processor. I picked the basic ground shipping option at Digikey, got here in a day and a half with usps.

 

Any thoughts on another image I have tested? Looks like some noise. I think I have some probing to do, and more rereading translated websites.

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Edited by UWastronomer, 22 June 2020 - 01:13 AM.

[UWastronomer]

A little tweaking to the quality of my soldering joints... thank you so much everyone! It is functional! No lines! No errors in the image. Never have I been so excited about the picture of twist tie.

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[UWastronomer]

Ok, I've updated the firmware to the latest version from github:

 

It is working. Ish. I get pictures from "astrophotography tool" just fine. The ascom driver loads fine.

 

Now the darned 3.3v regulator has blown out again.... Argh!

 

Anyway, a new one with higher current capacity is on order.

 

I am going to run a separate mosfet switch to drive the peltier. The one onboard just isnt enough. I am running a much more powerful peltier (double stack) so...

 

any words of wisdom on wiring the peltier power to the mosfet?

 

I guess I will be making the main power supply tonight instead of testing the camera more.

Edited by UWastronomer, 09 July 2020 - 12:37 PM.

[gregj888]

UW, just remember you can't go below dew-point with the sensor.  That is the dew-point in the vicinity of the sensor so dry gas or a vacuum.

 

Greg

[Dynamicp]

All,

 

Going to order PCB anyone interested? Should there be any modifications to the PCB based on what was gained from the changes..ie chip changes/Enhancements? What about temp control daughter board?

 

Thanks,

Paul

Edited by Dynamicp, 01 October 2020 - 01:31 PM.

[gregj888]

Paul, which circuit board and where do you live.  I think I still have 2 of the Cam-86 board.  I want to keep one but could spare the other.  I may also have a couple of Cam-84 boards but will point you to the Cam-86. 

 

There is also a round cam-86 version, if you are looking at that one, I might be interested.  The round board would be a lot easier to put in a vacuum chamber to go real cold...  Please PM if you are doing this.

 

Greg

[Joltonz]

Hey all,

 

My name is Zach and funny enough I'm also a UW astronomer.

 

I have a board soldered but am having trouble with the software part of things.

I kind of lack experience in that department.

Both of the serial converters are recognized but I get a bunch of errors when trying to flash the USB.

 

Number of devices : 2

device ¹0 :
SerialNumber :A
Description :Dual RS232-HS A

device ¹1 :
SerialNumber :B
Description :Dual RS232-HS B
error: FT_Purge TX - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Purge RX - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Write - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Read - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Write - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Read - Invalid handle...
00 00 00 00
error: FT_Write - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Read - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Write - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Read - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Write - Invalid handle...
error: FT_Read - Invalid handle...

signature: 000000
unknown signature

 

Any help would be super appreciated.

Thanks!

[gregj888]

Joltonz, Cam-86?

[Joltonz]

Yeah sorry Cam 86

[9artus]

Hello folks, 

 

This is my first post to the group.  I have built and debugged many sma boards over the years as related to amateur radio.  I am trying to get a CAM-86 running.  The board voltages are correct and the steps to bring up the board appear to work through setting the fuses and programming the ATMEGA.  I even tacked an ICSP connector and verified the fuses and program with AVRDudess.  

 

However,  I see no timing signals on my scope from PC1-6 ports on the ATMEGA.  I installed the ASCOM drivers.  The CAM86 viewer recognizes the camera but there is nothing  but a black image.  I did not install C15,C16 as noted the developers' site.  Also, I have spent a great deal of time with a 10x loupe looking for issues.  I am suspecting a failed component -- some of which I have had to source from China,  but wonder if anyone else might have a suggestion.   I am assuming that the failure to detect timing signals is indicative of the problem.  Thank you for any advice.

 

Jack  (Jack Generaux-- Kansas City)