Thanks, Paul and Bill (I learned a lot from Paul, whose 90DS is amazing, and have been co-learning with Bill each year at NEAF, who donates his time the Lunt scopes).
Seldom, it is mostly just a matter of practice. I've been at it a while and I still keep learning new things. One hint is that there are more degrees of freedom to adjust than you realize. I am only visual, so my list is a little different from an imager, but here goes: tuning each of the tuners (obviously), whether the tuners are on the same side or opposite side or elsewhere, the exact angle between the DSII unit and the telescope body (there is some play possible as you tighten the thumb screws), use of the new anti-reflection filter, which eyepiece (for visual), whether you use a binoviewer, and whether you break from Lunt advice and put the single-stack spacer between the DSII and the telescope body.
I do tune them both at the same time. I keep my tuners on opposite sides. I first open and close them both (which means moving my hands in opposite directions because the tuners are on opposite sides), sweeping up- and down-band to find the highest contrast. Then I move my hands in the same direction (opening one while closing the other), looking for maximum brightness, and repeat once or twice. But any way you get there is fine. Part of it is just knowing what it is supposed to look like.
Here is my current approach:
If I am using a single eyepiece, I do put the antireflection filter in. It's a little dimmer but the sky is black and the scope is relatively insensitive to the other tweaks. It just works. The LS100 DSII at NEAF this year used the anti-reflection filter, and it was great, especially because the LS100 is a bright scope.
If I am using a binoviewer, then I skip the antireflection filter to maximize brightness. Then it becomes important to get everything else perfect. Mainly adjusting the exact angle of the DSII unit against the telescope body to get the best view.
If I am going for high power (140x), especially on proms, then I skip the antireflection filter (to maximize brightness), but I put the single-stack spacer between the telescope and the DSII unit. This makes the reflections much worse, so I use a few layers of paper as a shim to force a tilt between the spacer and the telescope body. This pushes the reflections to one side or another of the sun. The side without reflections is sharp, high contrast, and with a black sky. (Remember this is high power, so the reflections are out of the field of view.) The view is also relatively bright given the power. Partly because in the normal configuration, the DSII vignettes the light cone a little, and with the spacer it doesn't. The question is whether those outer couple of millimeters add more brightness or add aberrations. In my experience, high power ends up better. On proms it is worth switching it around for that added brightness. For disk details, it is probably not worth the effort and is not clearly better.
Good luck, and have fun.
Edited by George9, 06 June 2015 - 09:19 PM.