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Best Entry Level Full Color DIY Camera is LN300-PAL

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#51 photo444

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 08:04 AM

Jon,

 

Very nice pictures.  Is the first picture taken with Ha filter?  The second shown a lot more stars.

 

David,

 

It's great point to mention that the photos are in mono.  My last night trial was a total failure. When the scope was set up the sky was full of clouds.:( :(  They say tonight will be clear.

 

Paul



#52 Censustaker

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 10:06 AM

Sorry, was too excited and forgot to post details!

Scope: celestron c8.
Camera: mallincam micro-ex ntsc
Focal reducer: 0.5x GSO
The second shot is the one with the Ha filter

The settings are definitely allowing more sensitivity - I have not been able to see the nebulousity in m17 previously with this camera.

One thing I can't figure out is what's causing that horizontal bar of brightness at the bottom

#53 David B in NM

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 11:27 AM

Jon,

 

Thanks for the info.  If you can afford it, this reducer and nosepiece combo will benefit you some.  In its current configuration, it will provide you a FR of about F3.2 with your C8.  Normally the Seller accepts a Best Offer price of $25.  You'll find your integrations will be shorter.  In page 1 of this thread, Charles used the same reducer/NP (with a C6) for the images he posted.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item339aa86b3f

 

In your first image you may find you can reduce the gamma for a brighter image (if you desire).

 

As to your horizontal bar, has it always appeared or did it just begin to appear with the "auto" settings you used?

 

David B in NM


Edited by David B in NM, 11 July 2015 - 11:30 AM.


#54 Censustaker

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 01:05 PM

I've seen them before - usually when using the DNR

#55 Censustaker

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 01:07 PM

Also; I think I have enough spacers to get the same distance between the camera and the FR as that eBay auction - or is there something else I don't know?

#56 David B in NM

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 01:35 PM

Jon,

 

I'm not sure why the DNR would cause the problem.  It may be your settings for the capture device you use.  Have you set it for NTSC?  The LN300 cameras (and rebrands) are normally recognized as 625 lines (both PAL and NTSC) by capture drivers.  It may be because you have your capture device set to PAL rather than NTSC.

 

You may want to test different DNR settings to see where it begins to show up. 

 

If you just use a video monitor (no pc) does the artifact still appear? 

 

As to the reducer, I have samples of all the cheaper reducers and the Chinese reducer in the link above is the best.  It's different in the fact, that to achieve .5x, the NP has to be 15mm (not 30mm as in the picture).  It's able to reduce more than the Antares and GSO reducers I have.  You may find you'll get vignetting with your GSO when you add spacers.  However, you can always test with the spacers you have to see if vignetting does occur (and at what point).

 

David B in NM



#57 Censustaker

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 02:47 PM

The capture device is set to NTSC - I'm using an Easycap and I wouldn't be surprised if it was the problem given how cheap it was. I'll try some other experiments next time - although to be honest the bar doesn't really bother me.

 

Thanks for the tip on the focal reducer - I'll add it to my shopping list.

 

 

Jon.



#58 Censustaker

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 03:10 PM

Oh, and for demonstration purposes, I uploaded a video of Micro-Ex integrating M17:

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=kAZ6CCajAj0


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#59 David B in NM

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 03:11 PM

Jon,

 

If you have a way to test it via cam to video monitor only it may help you determine if it is the capture device or the cam itself.  I think it may be the capture device.  The LN300 cams are pretty dependable.

 

IMHO, this is a step up from the EasyCap.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item463d35a1bf

 

Have fun testing.

 

Added:  Nice video!  If you like what you see in mono with your Micro (NTSC) you may want to think about the LN300 PAL if you want color.  You may also want to contact Jack and see if he can confirm the Micro Super PAL version is full color.  IMHO it will be.

 

David B in NM


Edited by David B in NM, 11 July 2015 - 03:14 PM.


#60 Censustaker

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 03:37 PM

Yep.. Definitely tempted by the colour...

#61 David B in NM

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 03:38 PM

Jon,

 

I noticed the info you placed in your youtube above has the wrong integration.  You stated x512 and the screen at the beginning shows x256. 

 

David B in NM

Attached Thumbnails

  • M17 Jon's Image.jpg


#62 Censustaker

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 04:18 PM

Whoops.. Good catch.

#63 Censustaker

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Posted 14 July 2015 - 02:40 PM

I tried it last night using a battery operated LCD i have and the bars are still visible:

 

http://imgur.com/a/t9kWs


Edited by Censustaker, 14 July 2015 - 02:40 PM.


#64 David B in NM

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Posted 14 July 2015 - 02:50 PM

Jon,

 

Do you have a spare cable and power supply for the camera?  If so, see if the line is still there. 

 

David



#65 Censustaker

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Posted 14 July 2015 - 03:08 PM

I run the camera from a 12v battery pack - i'll try it with a wall wart.



#66 David B in NM

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Posted 14 July 2015 - 03:18 PM

Jon,

 

You may also want to try another video cable too if you have one.

 

David B in NM



#67 Censustaker

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Posted 14 July 2015 - 03:28 PM

I don't believe its the video cable, i recently changed form using a very, very cheap RCA video cable to a 3ft RG59U coax cable with RCA and BNC connectors to the easycap.



#68 David B in NM

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Posted 14 July 2015 - 03:32 PM

Jon,

 

If the line disappears with the cheap RCA video cable then it may be the better/new cable is at fault.  Did you see the line in the past with the cheap video cable?

 

David



#69 Censustaker

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Posted 14 July 2015 - 03:53 PM

sorry: yes, forgot to mention that.



#70 David B in NM

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Posted 14 July 2015 - 04:01 PM

Jon,

 

There's also the chance it could be your BNC adapter.  Do you have a spare?  If you rotate the plug gently while viewing the output does it change in any way?

 

If the wall wart doesn't solve the problem then it may be the camera.  You may want to contact Rock or Jack and let them see your problem (via images) and tell them what you've done to isolate the problem.

 

If I recall the Micro has a 2-year warranty.

 

David B in NM


Edited by David B in NM, 14 July 2015 - 04:02 PM.


#71 Censustaker

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Posted 14 July 2015 - 04:11 PM

My old setup was an RCA-RCA cable with an BNC adapter which had this problem, now i'm using an RCA-BNC cable and its the same problem. I started a thread in the mallincam forum (instead of continuing to hijack this one...)


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#72 Don Rudny

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Posted 23 July 2015 - 02:37 PM

Hi All,

 

It's been a while since my earlier post about getting one of these LN300 PAL cams to test here in Hawaii.  I did purchase one on eBay for $69 with free shipping.  Thanks to Paul, David, Charles and CCS for providing all the info and directions on this cam.  I did the mod suggested by CCS for a remote, and it works perfectly.  I had all the accessories from my old Sammy 2000 that doesn't work anymore, so it didn't take much to get this running.

 

Here is a link to some captures I made last night after I finally got some cloud relief.  I posted them in the VA image gallery.

 

http://www.cloudynig...lery/?p=6695804

 

I think the camera is a solid entry level cam for EAA.  Using it with a viewing program that has live stacking and dark frame subtraction would make it even better.

 

Comments and suggestions will be appreciated.

 

Don


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#73 Don Rudny

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Posted 23 July 2015 - 05:48 PM

Thanks, Charles.

 

I used your settings.  I also had brightness set to 99.  The DNR is working because I can see the image get brighter in steps.  You may be right on the grabber and software though.  I use a Mac with Miloslick and Debut.  My Miloslick is the old version and the latest version of 2.0 isn't happy with my OS even though it should be.  The new beta version 3.0 doesn't work either.  Bill of MS is looking into it.  I also am going to try a powered USB hub.  I have a 16' repeater cable extension, but I may be seeing too much voltage drop.

 

I would like to get the MS s/w working so I can do some stacking experiments.  I know Astro Video will do it, but they don't have a Mac version.  All of my Windows PC's are broken from throwing them against a wall (just kidding).  If I have to go the Windows route, I will try that.

 

I can't change resolution on my grabber, so that might be something else to look into.

 

Thanks for your input.  If you think of anything else, please let me know.

 

Don



#74 tjay

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Posted 24 July 2015 - 09:27 AM

Just a quick question on the power supply required: would a  Celestron mount power supply work?  I understand that they are 2.1mm inside diameter, 5.5mm outside diameter, center positive.

 

I've got three AC and a couple of 12V adapters for various Celestron Mounts (Nexstar GPS, Nexstar SE, CG5) that I could reuse if they will work.



#75 mclewis1

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Posted 24 July 2015 - 10:42 AM

Tom

 

Yes, they will work just fine ... but you should watch out for one characteristic. The voltage supplied by many older 12v power supplies is actually a bit higher than 12v (it is sometimes as high as 13.8v ... this is actually quite normal). This won't hurt your camera in any way but it may cause the voltage regulators to run a little warm. This may show up as a bit more read noise in your images.

 

If you are really critical about the image quality I'd a) go through your power supplies, test them under load and choose one that's putting out closer to 12v or b) buy one of the many popular and inexpensive 12v 500ma wall wart style switching power supplies which will usually be putting out something very close to 12v (I measure 12.1v on most of the ones that I've seen).




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