604 replies to this topic

[denis0007dl]

Clear aperure on left eyepeice side is 28mm, with upper prism in diameter incredible 34mm!

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[denis0007dl]

On right eyepeice side, there is 30mm diameter of correction glass, which is actually glued on right side, instead to be in tube, with clear aperture of 28mm.

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Edited by denis0007dl, 25 November 2015 - 10:25 AM.

[denis0007dl]

Beamsplitter is 32mm in diameter, with 27mm clear aperture on back side.

Coatings seems very nice!

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[denis0007dl]

Here is update about NEW TS (Telescope Service) binoviewers:

 

New TS binos, like shown on left side, have only 22mm Clear Aperture on trelescope side!

Old TS binos, like shown on right side, have 23mm Clear Aperture on trelescope side!

 

Also, there is little change on eyepeice holders, where new unit have some cuts, and you can easier rotate older model becasue better grip!

Newer model have metal plate with engraved TS logo, older model have plastic plate with painted TS logo!

 

Prisms sizes and coatings stays same!

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[sonny.barile]

Denis   Have you measured the field stop or CA of the new WO binoviewers?   The WO sight states 20.2 CA but I have read others have measured the field stop of similar units as 18mm.  I don't believe these are 18mm or the 20mm 66 degree EP's would vignette and I can not pick up any evidence of this happening in my unit. 

 

 

Regards

Edited by sonny.barile, 25 November 2015 - 03:29 PM.

[denis0007dl]

WO have 20-20.2mm CA on each eyepiece side, and 23mm CA on scope side.

Beamsplitter, upper prism and correction glass are 25mm in diameter.

Hope this helps.

 

CS

Denis

[sonny.barile]

Thank you kindly.... 

[denis0007dl]

Thank you kindly.... 

You're welcome 

[DaveTinning]

Hi Denis

Great information, thanks:-)!

Do you know when the new Maxbrights will be available, and what improvements are planned for them? I have the current model, which I like due to the T2 system, but I don't like the x3/retaining screws for the ep holders and am hoping they will move to the self centering system as with TS models...

Dave

[denis0007dl]

Hi Denis

Great information, thanks:-)!

Do you know when the new Maxbrights will be available, and what improvements are planned for them? I have the current model, which I like due to the T2 system, but I don't like the x3/retaining screws for the ep holders and am hoping they will move to the self centering system as with TS models...

Dave

Hi Dave,

 

I also contacted Baader directly, and they do not know when new model will be avaiable, and they do not want telling anything about new bino specifications. So, we must wait, who knows how long.....

One thing I do not like on older Maxbright unit, are glued plastic sides, so if you need collimate bino by shifting prisms, it is hard to do, while black plastic wing sides are glued strongly, so you must damage a little metal parts of bino.

Also, when you putting wings back, you must glue them again. If you must collimate bino often, this damage them, and as well binobody. No good. TS, WO and simillar bino have better solution where wings are holded by 2 screws on each side.

Hope Baader will fix this and find beter solution like TS, WO, Denkmeier and Mark V and others have, or they maybie find even beter solutin.....

[Vondragonnoggin]

Excellent revealing thread Denis! Really haven't seen any comparisons of so many models in a single thread before with completely taken apart and measured components and pictures of it all too.

 

A great service to us all by posting this info.

[denis0007dl]

Thank you all for support and kind words 

 

CS

Denis

[Shorty Barlow]

WO bino's, with additional 9mm WO SWAN's, TeleVue 15mm Plossls and 1.6x, 2x WO Barlows.

 

[denis0007dl]

Here is Celestron binoviewer. It have 20mm CA on scope side, as well 20mm CA on each eyepeice side! Prism, beamsplitter and correction glass are 25mm in diameter.

Eyepiece holders are helicall and have bronze compression ring with on screw which holds eyepeices.

Black plasitc sides are glued to binobody, so eact time when you want clean or collimate bino, you must broke this glued part, same like on Baader Maxbright model.

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[denis0007dl]

...more pictures...

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[gmac1146]

Hi Denis,

 

I have the Baader Giant Binoviewer (the predecessor to Mk V, or as some call it, the MK IV) and wonder about the availability of installing eyepiece holders like the click lok with diopter adjustment or some other system that will achieve the goal without extending the focus too much. I would say that half of my bino pair eyepieces need adjustment to match each other which I do by moving one up to match the other before I lock it down. Pretty crude way to match them but I do not want to spend a lot of money either with an expensive fix. Is this something I can buy parts from you and do myself or would I need to send unit to you? I do like this unit very much other than that.

 

Thanks in advance.

[denis0007dl]

Hi Denis,

 

I have the Baader Giant Binoviewer (the predecessor to Mk V, or as some call it, the MK IV) and wonder about the availability of installing eyepiece holders like the click lok with diopter adjustment or some other system that will achieve the goal without extending the focus too much. I would say that half of my bino pair eyepieces need adjustment to match each other which I do by moving one up to match the other before I lock it down. Pretty crude way to match them but I do not want to spend a lot of money either with an expensive fix. Is this something I can buy parts from you and do myself or would I need to send unit to you? I do like this unit very much other than that.

 

Thanks in advance.

Hello!

 

Yes, there is option of course to replace original eyepei holders like hown on picture 1. You can see direct comparation these original holders vs Baader ClickLock system.

 

On picture 2 you can see Baaders ClickLock holders vs Baader helicall design holders, which actually have REAL eyepeice adjusting position. Why? Becasue they are rotatable, and whole eyepeice is rotating here, while on ClickLoc system you rotate just upper part, and if you attach eyepeice tight in holder, you CANT go up or down with it. So, ClickLock system is NOT real holder with adjustable eyepeice position.

 

Also, ClickLock is not self centring, neather Helicall adapter is not. If you ask me, Helicall adapter I would prefeer better, becasue it is lighter, takes smaller light path, and it is real focussable, and much cheaper.

 

ClickLock is only more attractive for eye, nothing more!

 

Too attach them to bino, you need to have special custom made adapters with T2 male connection like shown on picture 3 and 4.

Then, all looks like on picture 5.

 

Edit: difference between your original eyepeice holders and mounted lets say ClickLock on these adapters, are 1.4cm, so it means you have shortest possible light parh with your setup.

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Edited by denis0007dl, 06 December 2015 - 04:35 AM.

[Paul G]

Hi Denis,

 

I have the Baader Giant Binoviewer (the predecessor to Mk V, or as some call it, the MK IV) and wonder about the availability of installing eyepiece holders like the click lok with diopter adjustment or some other system that will achieve the goal without extending the focus too much. I would say that half of my bino pair eyepieces need adjustment to match each other which I do by moving one up to match the other before I lock it down. Pretty crude way to match them but I do not want to spend a lot of money either with an expensive fix. Is this something I can buy parts from you and do myself or would I need to send unit to you? I do like this unit very much other than that.

 

Thanks in advance.

I used the Lapides eyepiece holders in that binoviewer. Rich only made a limited number and you'd have to find them on the used market, but they would do what you want. Company 7 had a new set of Lapides eyepiece holders for their scope museum, you could contact them and see if they still have them.

[denis0007dl]

 

Hi Denis,

 

I have the Baader Giant Binoviewer (the predecessor to Mk V, or as some call it, the MK IV) and wonder about the availability of installing eyepiece holders like the click lok with diopter adjustment or some other system that will achieve the goal without extending the focus too much. I would say that half of my bino pair eyepieces need adjustment to match each other which I do by moving one up to match the other before I lock it down. Pretty crude way to match them but I do not want to spend a lot of money either with an expensive fix. Is this something I can buy parts from you and do myself or would I need to send unit to you? I do like this unit very much other than that.

 

Thanks in advance.

I used the Lapides eyepiece holders in that binoviewer. Rich only made a limited number and you'd have to find them on the used market, but they would do what you want. Company 7 had a new set of Lapides eyepiece holders for their scope museum, you could contact them and see if they still have them.

 

Thats good option, and cheaper! 

[Alvin See]

Denis, I just acquired a Zeiss binocular head (the bigger one in the picture) that looks like one of those you listed. Do you think it is worth machining adapters for this one to take 1.25" eyepieces? 

 

[Eddgie]

, and if you attach eyepeice tight in holder, you CANT go up or down with it. So, ClickLock system is NOT real holder with adjustable eyepeice position.

 

 

 

Also, ClickLock is not self centring, neather Helicall adapter is not. If you ask me, Helicall adapter I would prefeer better, becasue it is lighter, takes smaller light path, and it is real focussable, and much cheaper.

 

ClickLock is only more attractive for eye, nothing more!

 

 

 

Hello Dennis,

 

I feel as if your posts are constantly biased against the Mark V, but having owned a bunch of different binoviewers, I think it is the best binoviewer on the market.

 

But lets address two of your "problems" with the Mark V.

 

First you say:  "and if you attach eyepeice tight in holder, you CANT go up or down with it. So, ClickLock system is NOT real holder with adjustable eyepeice position."

 

You make this sound like a fatal flaw in the Mark V and I would consider it a major benefit of the design.   With the Mark V, once you set the diopter height, there is no need to change it when you change eyepieces.  I would suggest that people think of this as more like a parfocalizing ring attached to the binoviewer.  Once it is set, you can change eyepieces and they will set at the correct heights for each eyepiece so that no focusing is necessary.. I have changed eyepieces in my Mark V many dozens of times and I have not had to change the diopter setting because it is not required.

 

Next, you write:  " Also, ClickLock is not self centring, neather Helicall adapter is not. If you ask me, Helicall adapter I would prefeer better, becasue it is lighter, takes smaller light path, and it is real focussable, and much cheaper."

 

In fact, the Mark V uses two positioning ridges in each eyepeice holder that press the eyepeices up and out when the cam lock is activated.  This ensures that the eyepeices come to rest in a position where the eyepieces are aligned to the optical axis and even at 8mm setting of my zooms, I have never ever ever seen any sign in miscollimation.  I can change eyepieces in the Baader and they always come to rest in perfect collimation.

 

And this..  The Baader design more than most other designs I have used (though the Bino Vue  and Binotron would be its equal here) is excellent for zoom eyepeice use.  With helical focusers, you have to hold the diopter with one hand while you zoom the eyepiece with the other hand.  With the Mark V or Bino Vue and Binotron, you can zoom both eyepieces at the same time without fear that the diopters will turn.    The helical focusers are by comparion, for more tedious to use with zoom eyepieces.  Now for you that may not be an issue, but I did all my planetary observing with zooms and I found the rotating diopters to be the worst for this.  You can lock them down, but now you have to slip focus the eyepieces every time you change them.

 

Finally, the Mark V makes the task of changing eyepieces about as easy as it can be made.  I have never used a binoviewer that allowed eyepiece changes as fast and easy as the Mark V does.    

 

I think your information is misleading.    You slam the Mark V eyepiece holders, but most Mark V owners (not all) will say that it is one of the most important benefits of the Mark V.    I know I do.  

 

To recap:

 

• Once set, the diopter does not need to be constantly changed every time you change eyepieces.
• The design positions the eyepieces so that even very short focal length eyepeices can be used with no collimation issues at all. You may not call it self centering, but the design results in literally perfect eyepeice position ever time.
• The design makes it possible to use zooms without locking the diopters down
• The design makes for the easiest eyepiece changes of any binoviewer I have ever owned.

You have expressed your opinion, but mine is simply that the Mark V is one of the finest binoviewers ever sold. If one is going to buy a binoviewer without a power switch where a lot of eyepeice changes will be required, the Mark V is a magnificent choice, and the cam locking eyepeice holders are a hugely important benefit of the product.

 

Just my opinion of course, and yours is yours, but I think yours is very misleading to those that might be considering buying a Mark V and the statement that they do not self center is hugely problematic because the design results in a perfectly collimated view every time the eyepeices are changed.

Edited by Eddgie, 19 January 2016 - 09:22 AM.

[denis0007dl]

Denis, I just acquired a Zeiss binocular head (the bigger one in the picture) that looks like one of those you listed. Do you think it is worth machining adapters for this one to take 1.25" eyepieces? 

 

Hello Alvin,

 

You have excellent bino setup.

Actually, you do not need any upgrade if you ask me. Why?-becasue I see you use 25mm Zeiss excellent Aspherics, which are originally 30mm in diameter, as are eyepeice holders on your Zeiss bino.

To achieve more magnification, to achieve excellent results, just use something like Powermates, TMB 1.8x barlow, APM 2.7x barlow, or AP BARCON or BARADV.

Thats it. 

[denis0007dl]

 

, and if you attach eyepeice tight in holder, you CANT go up or down with it. So, ClickLock system is NOT real holder with adjustable eyepeice position.

 

 

 

Also, ClickLock is not self centring, neather Helicall adapter is not. If you ask me, Helicall adapter I would prefeer better, becasue it is lighter, takes smaller light path, and it is real focussable, and much cheaper.

 

ClickLock is only more attractive for eye, nothing more!

 

 

 

Hello Dennis,

 

I feel as if your posts are constantly biased against the Mark V, but having owned a bunch of different binoviewers, I think it is the best binoviewer on the market.

 

But lets address two of your "problems" with the Mark V.

 

First you say:  "and if you attach eyepeice tight in holder, you CANT go up or down with it. So, ClickLock system is NOT real holder with adjustable eyepeice position."

 

You make this sound like a fatal flaw in the Mark V and I would consider it a major benefit of the design.   With the Mark V, once you set the diopter height, there is no need to change it when you change eyepieces.  I would suggest that people think of this as more like a parfocalizing ring attached to the binoviewer.  Once it is set, you can change eyepieces and they will set at the correct heights for each eyepiece so that no focusing is necessary.. I have changed eyepieces in my Mark V many dozens of times and I have not had to change the diopter setting because it is not required.

 

Next, you write:  " Also, ClickLock is not self centring, neather Helicall adapter is not. If you ask me, Helicall adapter I would prefeer better, becasue it is lighter, takes smaller light path, and it is real focussable, and much cheaper."

 

In fact, the Mark V uses two positioning ridges in each eyepeice holder that press the eyepeices up and out when the cam lock is activated.  This ensures that the eyepeices come to rest in a position where the eyepieces are aligned to the optical axis and even at 8mm setting of my zooms, I have never ever ever seen any sign in miscollimation.  I can change eyepieces in the Baader and they always come to rest in perfect collimation.

 

And this..  The Baader design more than most other designs I have used (though the Bino Vue  and Binotron would be its equal here) is excellent for zoom eyepeice use.  With helical focusers, you have to hold the diopter with one hand while you zoom the eyepiece with the other hand.  With the Mark V or Bino Vue and Binotron, you can zoom both eyepieces at the same time without fear that the diopters will turn.    The helical focusers are by comparion, for more tedious to use with zoom eyepieces.  Now for you that may not be an issue, but I did all my planetary observing with zooms and I found the rotating diopters to be the worst for this.  You can lock them down, but now you have to slip focus the eyepieces every time you change them.

 

Finally, the Mark V makes the task of changing eyepieces about as easy as it can be made.  I have never used a binoviewer that allowed eyepiece changes as fast and easy as the Mark V does.    

 

I think your information is misleading.    You slam the Mark V eyepiece holders, but most Mark V owners (not all) will say that it is one of the most important benefits of the Mark V.    I know I do.  

 

To recap:

 

• Once set, the diopter does not need to be constantly changed every time you change eyepieces.
• The design positions the eyepieces so that even very short focal length eyepeices can be used with no collimation issues at all. You may not call it self centering, but the design results in literally perfect eyepeice position ever time.
• The design makes it possible to use zooms without locking the diopters down
• The design makes for the easiest eyepiece changes of any binoviewer I have ever owned.

You have expressed your opinion, but mine is simply that the Mark V is one of the finest binoviewers ever sold. If one is going to buy a binoviewer without a power switch where a lot of eyepeice changes will be required, the Mark V is a magnificent choice, and the cam locking eyepeice holders are a hugely important benefit of the product.

 

Just my opinion of course, and yours is yours, but I think yours is very misleading to those that might be considering buying a Mark V and the statement that they do not self center is hugely problematic because the design results in a perfectly collimated view every time the eyepeices are changed.

 

Hi Eddgie, 

 

almost everything what you say is correct, and everything what I say is correct!

I will not agree that Mark V is best bino ever produced! Why?-becasue Zeiss produce best binos, which are primary made for microscopes. But as I say, not all are excellent, only few of them, and it is hard to recognize them.

 

I am of the opinion that Baader should tell truth about binos they selling. Which truth? About Clear Apertures, and eyepeice holders. Owners of MkVs know eyepeice holders are NOT self centring, no matter what you described about good points which are truth of course, especially ease of changing eyepeices 

 

Why is Mark V not best? It is easy: while through my hands passed more than 200 different binos, in which between was many many Mark Vs, they have often many imperfections very often. Which ones?- chipped prisms extremly edges, or some or many micro scratches of coatings on flat surfaces. Of course, it is present not always, but so often, that I am actually stunned my these imperfections.

Becasue cracked edges/chipped edges are on extreme edges, almost always they can not been seen when you look through bino.

These chipped parts, or coatings micro scratches, can been seen only of you take prisms out of bino, to make them clean, or to Supercharge bino.

 

But, few times I saw MkVs which had chipped glass, which was easily sawed when looked through bino. One of them I received from Baader, newly purchased, and after I contacted Baader, they told me that this not affect opticall performance, and they did not accept return. Chip was very little, but it was there.

 

Also, after some of next purchase of new MkVs from Baader, I received excellent bino looking, I mean without visiblke chipped edges when looking through bino, and when I opened one side, I saw chipped beamsplitter. I again sent pict to Baader, and asked if they can replace beamsplitter or bino, and they told me it is not possible because I opened bino, and I loose warranty, which is not sayed how long it is, which is not matter BTW.

 

Also, after one of my next purchased of also new MkV from my local dealer, inside beamsplitter was one huge stain, like water is spoiled inside beamsplitter, which was easily seen if you expose bino to strong source of light. Luckly, I did not dissasamble bino, and after their contact of my local dealer, Baader replaced bino.

 

Also, once I delivered new bought Mark V bino from my local dealer, which had chipped paint, really desturbing, and annoying, especially if you pay 1200 euros for item. Baader also acceptsd return luckly.

 

Once I asked Baader if they can finally make excellent bino for me, and I am ready to pay much more just to get unit as it should be, without chipped glass, erroes inside beamsplitter, and without micro scratches on coatings sometimes, without chipped painted parts on binobody, they denied me, and they told me they can not guarantee all this.

 

"Problem" is that I am perfectionist, with very sharp eyes, and I am VERY criticall! Thats main "problem", and only one!

 

Many or most of MkVs owners will never carryed about these stuffs, which I see!

 

MkV have big correction glass 28mm in diameter, stopped down to 26mm, 30mm diameter of beamsplitter, stopped down to 28mm, and 30mm diameter of upper prism, stopped down to 28mm.

 

Light transmittion is excellent, Clear Aperture minimum 26mm which is very good, but mechanics and precision of made, as well glass polished not so good like best Zeiss binoviewers have 

Everything would be much better if Baader make better controlled products without issues I mentioned, which I NEVER saw in any Zeiss binos, even in smaller ones!

 

Real Zeiss binos optics are Made in Zeiss in Germany, Baaders Mark Vs optics are Made in Checz Republic, and mechanics of binobody and optics are COPY of originaly glorified Zeiss bino.

 

I never say that MkV is BAD bino, contrary, it is excellent bino, but for sure overpriced IMO. But this is my opinion of course. 

[denis0007dl]

...at the end, people should get for what they paid for, and get correct all informations about bino, right? 

[junomike]

Interesting information Denis (for others to consider)

 

Mike