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White tube Celestron C5 info

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#1 memento

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 04:20 PM

Hello together,

 

I am not sure if it qualifies as a "classic" as it is just around 20...23 years old, but on the other hand it has an AC clock drive just like a classic scope, no electronics at all :) ... anyway, I just purchased a white tube Celestron C5 from maybe 1992 or 1993, it comes with its single arm fork mount and most original accessories but no eyepieces.

 

Now I am wondering what was the original eyepiece or eyepieces delivered with this scope, as I would probably like to get these eventually to complete the outfit?

 

CS

Thomas


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#2 rolo

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 04:45 PM

Standard accessories included a 5 x 24 Finderscope, Star Diagonal-1 1/4", Visual Back-1 1/4" and a 25mm Eyepiece-1 1/4"



#3 Terra Nova

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 05:30 PM

Congratulations Thomas. We see very few of the white tube C5s on the market.

#4 memento

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Posted 30 October 2015 - 01:47 PM

I picked up my scope today from the post office. It appears in good shape with just very little paint chips on the mount. Already love the beefy mount with setting circles that is (to me) so much more intuitive than the GoTo of my previous ETX125. It's like when you get a new car: Clutch, gas, brake, steering. You know that stuff already :) That's how I feel with non-computerised scopes. But anyway...

 

Do you know what kind of a 25mm eyepiece was supplied? I assume it was a Celestron Plössl but what exact type, was is the silver one "Made in Japan" or already a black one ...? As these eyepieces are not really expensive I'd just like to get the exact type that was delivered with the scope to have my C5 setup complete.

 

Apart from that, for my observations I have now got a set of the three Baader Classic Orthos, 6mm 10mm and the 32mm Baader Plössl. They are really cheap to get for what they are, and so light-weight, I think they fit the old C5 very well. Can't wait to take it to the skies, when clouds disappear ...!

 

I haven't got the Baader Classic 18mm cause I think I'd rather go with something more wide-angle in that range but let's just see what pops up.

 

CS

Thomas

 

2015-10-30-7000.jpg

 

2015-10-30-7006.jpg


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#5 Terra Nova

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Posted 30 October 2015 - 10:25 PM

Nice! I always liked that model of the venerable C5. :)
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#6 davidmcgo

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Posted 31 October 2015 - 09:57 AM

The stock eyepiece with that version was a 25mm modified achromatic but very poor quality made in Taiwan or China.

 

Almost anything else is an improvement.  At the time, the high end Celestron eyepieces were the Ultimas, maybe look for a few of those.

 

Dave


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#7 memento

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Posted 31 October 2015 - 01:33 PM

Thanks for the info. Is it called a Celestron SMA 25 mm? I still might fetch one if I see it super cheap, just to complete the "original" setup. Sad that they stopped providing their scopes with nicer standard eyepieces back then.

 

I would also like to get a really good wideangle (around 70 or even more degrees) with a focal length of 20mm or probably 24mm, to supplement my 32mm Baader Plössl for deep sky observing. I understand that the SCT is rather easy when it comes to eyepieces as it's a f/10 design so I thought probably the William Optics SWAN 20mm with 70° field will already be sufficient?

 

http://www.williamop...20_features.php

 

But I am wondering if this eyepiece is just the same, but with different brand name:

 

http://www.teleskop-...r-20-mm-70.html

 

Might also consider a vintage 20 mm wide angle but it seems that there were not many offers in the 80s/90s ... people were not that used to wide fields back then? Also am unsure if I should rather look for a 24mm. But I don't like that most modern 24mm wideangles (Explore Scientific etc.) are so heavy and big.

 

Here's a shot from this night, I am visiting a relative's place tonight and brought the scope. I still hope skies will clear a bit later in the evening, but for now I even just like the sight of the scope itself ;)

 

cheers,

Thomas

 

DSC03886-2.jpg


Edited by memento, 31 October 2015 - 01:34 PM.

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#8 davidmcgo

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Posted 31 October 2015 - 03:19 PM

Eyepiece was like this one in the scope I bought back in the mid 1990s:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...tm/381427873798

 

 

Dave


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#9 memento

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Posted 31 October 2015 - 05:26 PM

Thanks Dave for the info!

Today my C5 got first light with me, as the clouds and fog disappeared for about 1 1/2 hours. It was not the best seeing but I managed to have a look at the Pleiades (for which the C5 with its long focal length of course is not the perfect scope) and the rising Moon.

 

DSC03889-2.jpg

 

Took also this photo with my mobile phone through the scope with a 20mm eyepiece.

 

2015-10-31-7036_adjusted.jpg

 

Again, local seeing was not perfect tonight, so the higher magnifications did not give perfect results, but a short star test with the Baader 10mm and 6mm Classic Orthos seemed to show that the collimation is good, so I hope the scope will give nice results with higher magnification under better conditions.

 

The Moon today was actually the nicest with the 32mm Plössl. Could see how the moon rose over the hills, and then later two airplanes with their trails in front of it. Nothing serious, but just beautiful star watching atmosphere :)

 

Thomas


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#10 davidmcgo

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Posted 31 October 2015 - 07:45 PM

Nice picture of the scope with the Pleiades and Auriga in the background, Thomas!

 

That model C5 was really nice and versatile, I wish I would have kept mine.  The dovetail on the tube where it attaches to the fork also fits a Vixen shoe, but with no detention for the safety screw, and also has 1/4x20 threaded holes for camera tripods do mounting.

 

Dave



#11 memento

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 04:40 PM

Hi Dave, as you mention the dovetail ... I am wondering if the C5 fork will be good enough to hold another scope.

 

As any SCT is not perfect for wide fields, a small refractor could compliment it, and I would only need to take that tube (with proper rings and dovetail fitted) in addition to the C5 setup. With my 32mm Plössl, the C5 delivers around 40x, and so any refractor to compliment could cover the lower magnifications, thus any "simple" short achromat can surely do that very well.

 

I have my old rebuilt Tasco 60mm with 320mm f/l, here next to the C5 tube:

 

2015-11-03-7120.jpg

 

The length is the same but probably it would need to be moved a bit further back than the C5 to get it balanced on the fork mount. I would then lose the ability to watch Polar Star and the surrounding area but most of the time you want to watch objects further away from the celestial pole, anyway.

 

Not sure if I could also fit a slightly bigger refractor as well as then the tube length grows further and further (a short tube 80mm would already have around 400mm f/l). I always wanted a Vixen 80/400 Halley from the 80s, probably I find one some day. They originally come on flimsy tabletop alt/azimuth mounts so why not upgrade to the C5 fork then.

 

Did anyone ever try out something like this?

 

CS

Thomas


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#12 memento

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Posted 14 November 2015 - 01:32 AM

As the last weeks were either busy or bad weather at nights, I was lucky to at least peek out of the window this evening for a quick view of M45, M42, M44 and later in the morning even Jupiter. Of course no serious planet watching is possible through an open window in the city, but it was nonetheless a nice experience.

 

My C5's mount is very jerky if you move it by hand, especially in declination. I assume that the bearing of the dec axis needs a cleaning and new grease eventually but am not sure as to how I actually should clean the bearing.

 

Added the 18mm Baader Classic Ortho to the eyepiece setup, so now I have all four of them (32 Plössl + 18, 10, 6 Ortho). I have to say that having a complete set of eyepieces that are all very similar makes observing very convenient and tranquil ... as you don't have to adjust yourself to different eyepiece behaviours, but instead just fully enjoy the viewing experience.

 

Out of fun, I still did compare the 6mm Ortho with my old Vixen 6mm from the later 80s. The conditions were not good enough to do a comparison on how much planet details they show, but what was *very* apparent to me was that the eye relief of the Vixen Ortho feeled so much tighter. I actually had constant contact with my eyelashes to the eyepiece. It really was like peeking through a small hole whereas I found the Baader Classic with its bigger eye lens and (at least it felt like that) longer eye relief to be much more convenient.

 

CS

Thomas

 

DSC03976-2.jpg

 

DSC03977-2.jpg


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#13 Erik Bakker

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Posted 14 November 2015 - 03:25 AM

Beautiful scope and eyepieces you have Thomas.

 

The little fork mounted C5 will give you a lot of observing time and great viewing pleasure. Small, yet big enough...

You may want to add a dew shield to increase your time with clear optics.

 

Enjoy!


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#14 memento

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 03:39 PM

A question regarding the star diagonals ... my scope came with a visual back, a simple short hollow tube that screws into the scope end, and then you can either screw or slide in a 1.25" diagonal (depending on the type of diagonal you have). Now I know there are plenty of 2" diagonals out there that would directly thread into the scope, omitting the need for that "visual back" piece.

 

But did no one ever make such diagonals in 1.25" size that you could also directly thread into the scope? It seems to me more obvious to just thread in one piece directly (the diagonal) and not having to deal with a second piece (the visual back)?


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#15 Dartguy

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Posted 19 November 2015 - 05:16 PM

That's a great picture of Orion and your scope!  


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#16 memento

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 02:56 PM

Did this with an iPhone 5s held over the 18mm Ortho, through the window seen on the previous pic.

 

For that little effort (basically, open the window in front of the scope sitting on its shelf and then you go ...) I find the resulting moon pic really amazing. Beat my previous Nokia phone with that I took the pic further above in this thread. Normally, the Nokia had a better camera than the iPhone but it just seemed to not work that well through an eyepiece.

 

The pic here was a bit post processed (dark black background, contrast and sharpening etc.):

 

IMG_0294_adjusted_1250px.jpg

 

I might probably get one of these mobile phone holders for scope eyepieces and then, instead of taking single shots, experiment with making a moon movie and having it stacked.

 

I also have a SLR-type camera adapter for the C5 but need the correct T2 adapter for my camera body before I can fit that. But somehow it seems more fun with the phone, as it's (1) much more light-weight and (2) I could experiment with various eyepieces / magnifications more easily. Also fun to let others try their phone probably. Don't know yet if there's any software like RegiStax that I can run under OS X, though ...

 

Thomas


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#17 memento

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Posted 07 April 2018 - 05:25 AM

The clock drive of my C5 quit. The big black box that contains transformer and electronic made a rattling noise when transporting it so I opened it up. The transformer had become loose and also some wires were stripped due to that.

 

So I fixed the transformer and also already reconnected one wire but now I'm a bit puzzled.

 

IMG_6442-2.jpg

 

 

The part that puzzles me is the high voltage side of the transformer. It seems obvious to me that one cable came loose there as well but where does it go?

 

IMG_6443-2.jpg

 

From my understanding it should be connected to one of the wires of the power cable. But how?

 

There is a horribly worn terminal strip but only one side of it is connected to the power cable. I will replace that but first I need to figure out how the high voltage side of the whole wiring shall look like ...?

 

Apart from this one loose cable (and the one other cable that I already have fixed), there is no evidence whatsoever that anything else has been missing or come loose. There are no additional loose parts or whatever inside.

 

So it seems to me I really should only connect this one weird wire to whereever it belongs, and the box should work again?

 

IMG_6444-2.jpg

 

Thomas


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#18 memento

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 04:37 AM

Sadly I still have no solution for the clock drive, I put the one loose black cable back to the only position where it possibly could have been before, but nothing happened. So it remains dead at this point. I am pretty clueless as to how these electrics should work.

 

If anyone should happen to have a similar Celestron AC drive with such a black electric box I'd be really happy to get any help !!

 

Still I'm gonna try and maybe get some useable pics of the century's longest total lunar eclipse today! Just bought a Fuji-T2 adapter yesterday to attach my Fuji X-E3 camera to the C5. I have to say these mirrorless cameras with total electronic shutter are absolutely awesome ... no mirror slap or any other vibration induced by camera operation smile.gif Thomas

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#19 Boom

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 11:49 AM

I like your photographs.  You have a good eye.  

 

As for the clock drive, can you post a photo of what I'm assuming is the switch on the other side of the terminals circled in red?  

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#20 memento

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Posted 29 July 2018 - 03:46 PM

MANY thanks for your support Boom!!!! The drive is fixed now !! smile.gif

 

Here's one pic of the scope and me, during the Lunar eclipse yesterday:

 

P7273884.jpg

 

See also my thread here for more pics of that event:

https://www.cloudyni...lood-moon-2018/

 

DSCF3383.jpg

 

The C5 did not see a lot of action recently due to me tinkering with my newly acquired 60mm and 80mm refractors but I hope to change that soon again ... it's really a capable little package, even though I find the wedge and tripod a bit oversized (as those also work for 8" SC's) ... that somehow raises the question why not just use an 8" then? Thomas


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#21 whizbang

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 07:46 AM

Thomas,  Where did you connect the wire to get the clock working?



#22 memento

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 08:00 AM

See the pic. That's what Boom suggested to me and he was perfectly right.

 

I thought this would cause a short circuit ... smile.gif but then I'm really not any good when it comes to electrics. The drive now purrs again like a kitten.

 

bild.jpg


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#23 memento

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 06:01 AM

I didn't use the C5 since last year, but had it out pointing at the Moon yesterday. What a great scope, throughly enjoyed the views!

 

https://www.cloudyni...-lunar-evening/

 

Anyway I have an issue now with the focuser – maybe because of the long period without using it? Turning the focuser knob doesn't feel smooth anymore. It feels more like a click wheel by now :( I assume it's because of the grease getting old or sticky? What is the best way to service this?

 

FWIW, there is no mirror shift whatsoever. Even at 178x (with a 7mm eyepiece) I couldn't detect any during focusing. Either these era's C5 don't have that problem at all, or I am just lucky. But still I would like to correct the jerky / sticky action of the focuser.



#24 Martin

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 09:56 AM

Hi Thomas,

What I have found that worked on my C5 was to turn the focuser knob all the way to the left and then all the way to the right to redistribute the existing grease. I had to do it about 3 times and it improved my focusing and made it smooth again. Its worth trying anyway. Sometimes if these old C5's sit to long and do not get used the focuser becomes a little rough.

 

Martin


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#25 memento

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 05:15 AM

What I have found that worked on my C5 was to turn the focuser knob all the way to the left and then all the way to the right to redistribute the existing grease. I had to do it about 3 times and it improved my focusing and made it smooth again. Its worth trying anyway. Sometimes if these old C5's sit to long and do not get used the focuser becomes a little rough.

Thanks!

 

I tried that. In the end it was more than 3 times. The effect still is marginal. Even if I turn it really fast back and forth again and again, it improves, but it doesn't really get good and smooth.

 

Maybe the grease is just totally dried out or something? There's also in some positions a slight "grinding" noise.

 

 

Is there a way to re-grease the focuser spindle, without taking apart the whole scope and mirror cell?




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