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Atik Infinity Color Camera - Initial Impressions

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#126 roelb

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 10:21 AM

Hi Roel,

 

It really is a piece of cake on the 6se.  The HS lens is small enough to hold in one hand.  I think I can do the install in less than two minutes.  Make sure you get the right camera adapter.  Dean should have one for the Lodestar.  The adapter also has 1.25" filter threads on the inside.  One tip to make the install easier is to put a piece of folded electrical tape on the front of the secondary to have something to pull on it when removing it.  Otherwise it cocks as you try to take it out with your fingernail and is frustrating to get out.

 

I would not leave the Hyperstar lens installed when transporting.  It sticks out past the front of the scope tube.  It is an invitation for serious damage and you can't use the standard scope cover.  The HS comes with a nice protective case, too.

 

I think you're in for a lot of fun with that setup.  Let us know how it works out.

 

Don

Thanks Don,

 

Perhaps a stupid question: I suppose that the scope alignment (I use always 2 star) must be done before installing the HS;

so may I assemble the HS while the scope is tracking? I understand that the scope must be 45° altitude declined for save assembly.

 

Is their a technique to carry out scope alignment with the HS mounted? Perhaps via "focusing in the Starlight Live software"?

I did a survey on the internet and I found a lot of videos explaining how to mount the HS, but nobody is explaining how

the scope is then aligned afterwards.

Roel



#127 Don Rudny

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 11:23 AM

Roel,

 

You can align either way.  I find that using the camera to align easier and more accurate, if you use the crosshairs in the focusing mode of Starlight Live.  You have to make sure that your finder is properly aligned with the scope, so you get the alignment star on the screen.  If you align visually first, you can install it while it's tracking.  Not sure it has to be 45 degrees, but I think at least 20 so the secondary doesn't fall out when the retaining ring is removed.

 

Don


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#128 roelb

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 01:21 PM

Q. about use of FR and filter in EAA

 

I've finally decided to invest in a Celestron Evolution 8 with Starsense to replace my Celestron Nexstar 6SE.

 

In regard to start with EAA I have ordered:

- Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2 mono (pixel size: 6.40 x 3.7 µm).

- Celestron focal reducer f 6.3

 

With the SCT 8" Without FR the TVOFccd = 11x6 arcmin

With a FR6.3 the TFOVccd = 17x10 arcmin

With a FR0.5x the TFOVccd = 22x12 arcmin  (I have a cheap TS 0.5 reducer with 1.25" filter thread)

 

Probably these FOV will be not large enough to image the most common DSO's (I think most Messier objects lies within 42 arcmin).

But I am mainly interested in small DSO's which I cannot sufficient visually observe (Caldwell and beyond).

 

But occasionally for wider FOV's a FR0.33x would be interesting (TFOVccd = 33x19 arcmin).

Apart from playing with "extension tubes/rings" to increase FR, are their 'budget' 0.33x FR's on the market?

Which one(s) can you recommend? Which ones to avoid?

 

Or, are their other advisable ways to increase FR without introducing too much vignetting?

 

In the case of using a (1.25" threaded) filter, I suppose that the assembly order should be:

SCT rear cell > FRf6.3 > visual back > filter screwed into the left side of a "C-mount to 1.25" nose piece adapter" > Lodestar (via C mount male thread)

In this case the assembly length is increased with 35 mm, so I suppose that the focal reduction will also increased as per the formula R = 1 - (D/fFR)?

 

Sorry that I pose questions further on this thread, but for me it's easier to follow up what I have already posted/received valuable answers,

when they stay on to the same threads instead to delve into 10 different ones... :p

 

Thanks in advance.



#129 mega256

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 01:47 PM

"Sorry that I pose questions further on this thread, but for me it's easier to follow up what I have already posted/received valuable answers,

when they stay on to the same threads instead to delve into 10 different ones... :p"


Its called Thread hijacking...on CN...lol..
It would be nice to keep the tread content to the subject......or start a new one.

It might be easier for you but confuse the others..

Good Luck on the new gear,please post some pics....(under a new thread) lol I hope you will like it

I have noticed you have posted the same questions on many threads....

reguards

Edited by mega256, 07 February 2016 - 01:48 PM.


#130 Don Rudny

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 01:47 PM

Hi Roel,

 

Just some initial thoughts I had in response to your questions.  I'm sure others will help, too.

 

First, take a look at this primer from Mallicam on FR combos.  It may give you some ideas on how to assemble your setup.

 

http://www.mallincam...for_dummies.pdf

 

Are you going to keep your 6se?  You could mount that tube on the Evo to get wider field views with less focal reduction.  I see you have a 5se tube as well.  I always try to get the wider views with native optics rather than focal reduction.

 

Your 8" with no FR or the 6.3 FR should be great for small DSO's with the Lodestar.

 

I think you should try what you have first before buying additional FRs. Try combining the .5 and 6.3 as described in the MC paper and see how that works out before investing in a 3.3.  The Meade 3.3 can only be purchased used, but Optec makes one albeit on the expensive side.

 

Don



#131 roelb

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 03:16 PM

"Sorry that I pose questions further on this thread, but for me it's easier to follow up what I have already posted/received valuable answers,

when they stay on to the same threads instead to delve into 10 different ones... :p"


Its called Thread hijacking...on CN...lol..
It would be nice to keep the tread content to the subject......or start a new one.

It might be easier for you but confuse the others..

Good Luck on the new gear,please post some pics....(under a new thread) lol I hope you will like it

I have noticed you have posted the same questions on many threads....

reguards

Hello Bob,

 

I understand that it is better to stick at the thread's subject as close as possible. I will try to do that in the future.

But I also thought that, opening a lot of new threads, is equally annoying to the CN users either.

Initially, when I started questions about the Infinity, I did pose my first question onto 2 different threads.

I'd supposed that other members where interested in different overlapping domains.

I will avoid that in the future. I will also re-read the CN-rules to avoid unintended abuse.

 

When everything will work, I surely be happy to post my first trials (& errors)

 

Thanks for your reply.


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#132 roelb

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 04:25 PM

Hi Roel,

 

Just some initial thoughts I had in response to your questions.  I'm sure others will help, too.

 

First, take a look at this primer from Mallicam on FR combos.  It may give you some ideas on how to assemble your setup.

 

http://www.mallincam...for_dummies.pdf

 

Are you going to keep your 6se?  You could mount that tube on the Evo to get wider field views with less focal reduction.  I see you have a 5se tube as well.  I always try to get the wider views with native optics rather than focal reduction.

 

Your 8" with no FR or the 6.3 FR should be great for small DSO's with the Lodestar.

 

I think you should try what you have first before buying additional FRs. Try combining the .5 and 6.3 as described in the MC paper and see how that works out before investing in a 3.3.  The Meade 3.3 can only be purchased used, but Optec makes one albeit on the expensive side.

 

Don

Hello Don,

 

Thanks replying. The Mallincam paper seems to answer my FR-questions.

I was planning to sell my 2 years old 6SE to offset the cost of the Evo 8.

But I will keep the 5SE OTA, so I can also image larger FOV DSO's.

Combining the .5 & 6.3 is also a great idea. But indeed, the less "glass" in between, the better.

I follow the new thread "EAA Target of the Month for February 2016: Arp 214". Looks very interesting in order to learn what is possible with EAA.

Their is also a thread "Astro Video Image Gallery", where I can post my images.

 

Again thanks for all valued info.



#133 roelb

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 10:19 AM

Hello Bob (mega256),

 

I've just seen your latest YouTube video "Atik infinity and a night with 80mm/ Alt-Az mount"

https://www.youtube....h?v=FE5yWIGT4rI

I'm very impressed, really very nice done!

Roel


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#134 marinaldi

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 06:43 PM

I do have one related question,

 

As most folks have emphasized the software is key!   That being said, I'm a Mac OSX guy and was wondering whether any of the various PC software used by these cameras will run on a Mac OSX system natively or running Windows 7 or 10 under Parallels?

 

Thanks, Mike



#135 Don Rudny

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 07:12 PM

Hi Mike,

 

Not sure if you are referring to a specific camera when you say "these" cameras, but Starlight Live has a native Mac version and will work with all the SX cameras, including the Lodestars and Ultrastars.

 

Don


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#136 DonBoy

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 12:00 AM

 

I do have one related question,

 

As most folks have emphasized the software is key!   That being said, I'm a Mac OSX guy and was wondering whether any of the various PC software used by these cameras will run on a Mac OSX system natively or running Windows 7 or 10 under Parallels?

 

Thanks, Mike

Mike, the Atik Infinity software works in Parallels Win7 and Win10.  Atik is also working on a cross platform version of their software;


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#137 marinaldi

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 10:03 AM

Great!  Thanks



#138 Howie1

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 07:40 PM

Mike, You could try it through WINE on the Mac. But only if ok with using command line installations etc.Google "wine for mac".

 

I used it to run a windows only share trading program on my Mac years ago. Worked perfectly with all the mouse ports, internet, everything. Very little impact on resources.

 

Having said that, I have to admit there's so many Win apps and so few Mac apps for astro n other stuff I do, that I turned to the dark side and bootcamped the Mac. Now everything I need runs perfectly on the Mac! :)

 

cheers



#139 JHilliard

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 12:25 PM

With regards to focal reduction, I have noticed those using an f/6.3 on their Celestron evolution 6 & 8" scopes. (I am "assuming" these are the non-Edge HD Versions.) Are you using a T-mount adapter to get from the f/r to the camera or are you attaching a diagonal to the rear of the f/r and inserting the camera into it?

Just questions I am working on...if using a T-adapter for either the 3.3 or 6.3 f/r, brand and length, and if using the diagonal does it work with both the 3.3 and 6.3?

Just trying to figure out ways to get focal reduction....being very new to this technique.

Thanks...John

#140 mclewis1

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 01:18 PM

John, The Meade SCT f3.3 reducer and the SCT f6.3 reducers have very different spacing requirements. The 3.3 unit requires just under 60mm of spacing, the 6.3 units are almost double that around 105mm. So while you can use a 1.25" diagonal behind a 6.3 reducer it wouldn't work with the 3.3 reducer.

 

Behind a 3.3 reducer I use the Meade SCT T-adapter with 23mm of T spacers and a T to C thread adapter. This gives me something like 57mm of spacing between the reducer and the sensor in my cameras.


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#141 KGoodwin

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 02:42 PM

I do have one related question,

 

As most folks have emphasized the software is key!   That being said, I'm a Mac OSX guy and was wondering whether any of the various PC software used by these cameras will run on a Mac OSX system natively or running Windows 7 or 10 under Parallels?

 

Thanks, Mike

 

AstroLive USB runs natively on Mac also.


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#142 JHilliard

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 02:49 PM

Hey Mark,

Excellent!  I acquired a 3.3 about two weeks ago and it comes with a T-adapter that is 60mm +/-, just not sure exactly where to measure.  So I will not need the diagonal.  I had heard strange things on the lengths for the 3.3 so I tried it in a 2" diagonal.  First I tired to focus an ep through it...then the next day was reminded that it was NOT for visual/ep use...duh!

 

I have an f/5.2 reducer which comes with an 89mm T-adapter, but it is designed for the Edge HD optics.  I will try that T-adapter on the .63 and see if it works on the standard Celestron optics.

 

I did use an Antares .5 f/r on the nose piece of the camera in the 2" diagonal, but it gave me a series of fine vertical lines spaced across the image.  I will try that on the standard optics and see how it works as well.

 

Thanks for your help and info...

 

John



#143 mclewis1

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 03:46 PM

John,

 

If the SCT T-Adapter that came with your 3.3 reducer is the original Meade unit take a close look at it. Meade supplied nice smooth sided T thread spacers that appear at first glance to be part of one solid unit but they do unthread into the adapter, and 30 and 15mm T thread spacers. This allows you to fine tune your setup with other smaller sized T thread spacers.

 

Where to measure from is a very popular question. I use the rear edge of the reducer (where the rear threads start from). It's convenient and it approximates where the middle of the lens elements are within the body of the reducer. I've found that if I simply use the very bottom of the reducer that the specified spacing seems to be too long.



#144 JHilliard

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Posted 11 May 2016 - 08:57 AM


Mark,
I remember now that Optec mentioned something similar to what you are saying for determining the length...and I did notice there were two sections of the T-mount. Guess I am going to need to get a handful of assorted mm spacers and just have fun...should we ever get another clear night.

Thanks for the help,
John
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