I recently sold my C11 Hyperstar in search of a larger FOV and now have an Edge C8. After a few years of using various cams I can give you my own opinion. I started with a brand O CCD Cam, but soon learned it did not have enough sensitivity and was very limited in the exposure time and to be truthful very limited in what it could do despite the pretty advertisement pictures.
Next up was a 8300 Color CCD cam. It had the wide FOV and sensitivity was good, but I lost interest in making 20 subs and stacking the next day to see what I had (not very real time), but I did get 92 of 110 Messier objects with it over a years time. Then I found NSN and started watching and Learning about Video Cams.
A Jr Pro EXHad Color video cam was next. Learned about Hot/Warm pixels, amp glow, Miloslick SW, stacking and real time / near real time viewing and broadcasting on NSN. Then a 1080P SDI, a cooled Xterminator and a SRAG for the 50 mm guide scope.
Currently have a loaner SRDS Color and purchased a used Nikon 5100 to test with the C8 at F7, F5, F3.5 and Hyperstar F2. All the cams have served me well in my learning experience with EAA.
What have I learned????
1). Having a wide range of Focal Reducers and a Barlow with a 8 to 11 inch scope seems to work well for almost everything you would want to looks at. F10 to F15 for planets, F10 for close up pics of the Moons Craters and Sun Spots, F5 to F8 for Planetary Nebula's, F3 to F5 for most Galaxies and Clusters and F2 for the large objects (Sun, Moon, M42, M31...).
2). It is hard for one cam to work for everything. A Small sensor (1/3) at 1080P works very well for close up views on the Moon and Planets. A Medium sensor (1/2) at 640 x 480 works well till you get into the F4 range as the resolution gets out of an acceptable range with the larger FOV. A Large mega pixel sensor (2/3 up to APC size) in the F2 to F7 range allows a FOV to get the really big objects with great resolution. Most full frame cams will have vignetting to some degree and produce really large files that can slow down a medium speed computer quickly.
3). A good computer is necessary for most USB cams and USB 3 port for the newer high resolution cams. Video cams will work most of the time without a computer if needed (when out in the field), but a 12V monitor is nice to have. Most of the SW packages require some learning and sometimes 2 or more SW programs are needed to get everything working.
So in the end I would just recommend watching NSN for the various cams in action and ask questions or even better if you can visit someone with a cam you are interested in and see it in person. The more you learn before you buy the happier you will be with your selection(s).
For now I am in the 3 cam mode, waiting for the perfect astro cam to be made that can do everything (may be sooner than later as things are changing very fast these days).
Cheers and Clear Skies