Maybe some useful tips.
Earlier when I darkcalibrated my image files from my Canon camera I took help of the builtin temperature sensor. I used the program IrfanView to rename the filenames with temperature information. If I place the temperature in the beginning of the filename it's very easy to sort the darks by there temperatures.
You can read here in my short tutorial how I did this:
If you use Deep Sky Stacker (DSS) to calibrate and stack the subimages you can with help of the software Dark Master pairing the temperature between image and dark files very easy and handy. You find that information also in the tutorial above.
You will never get this perfect because the temperature sensor what I know messaure the camera body, not the sensor temperature. And you can not have a unlimited number of temperatures. You can of course scale your darks and maybe get better result.
All this extra dark and bias calibration files add random noise which is not good. Better to skip them !
Nowadays I try an another technique.
Today I don't dark or bias calibrate my image files with dark and bias files, I replace them with a constant and only flat calibrate them. To get this to work you must take the images with dithering technique. Work best with modern cameras with low static pattern.
Here you have a tutorial about how I use the dithering technique:
The latest is that I have started to make macros for the advanced and free program AstroImageJ (AIJ) to take dark and bias information from Canons overscan regions and get perfect temperture match because both image and dark come from the same image.
Here is my turorial about how I do this:
This latest step is in the beginning and it's a little bit more difficuld to do because AIJ is not so easy to handle, but my macros do it almost automatic.
What I know it's only Canon EOS with liveview (and 5D) that has a temperature sensor that you can read through EXIF data, or someone who knows better about Nikon, Sony, etc ?
And the overscan region that Canon has (I have seen it on 350D, 5D and 6D), when I look at Nikon and Sony files I can't see that they have that areas (a part of the sensors that is blocked from light), or someone who knows better?
You must setup DCRAW correctly to see the overscan area!
Edited by Astrofriend, 08 June 2016 - 02:43 PM.