Well, nothing important, just that i managed to solve that issue with the SkyPoint 8x36 - there were actually some very very fine screws on the sides of each prism assembly block, that allowed for minute tilt of the pair of prisms. It was a rather difficult procedure, but not exactly as painstaking as it was with the Baigish 12x45, since this one DID in fact have some fine adjustment means to get it close to zero - even though it had to be performed still "in blind".
As a side note, i've recently collimated another binocular that had sort of a similar prism sub-assembly, only this time the prisms were not glued, but fixed in place with brackets on the perforated plate, and each individual block could be adjusted separately by using three pairs of push-pull screws (one simple and one spring-loaded). Collimation was smooth like butter, done in "live view mode", with the eyepieces in place, the only thing i had to remove was the lid under each eyepiece, and then put it back after re-collimation was completed.
I think i like the design on these specific binoculars, too bad it's been phased out - well, to be honest, it's not my super all time favorite (not for astronomy anyway - it's a Bushnell 40mm zoom binocular, with a rather narrow aFOV at 7x and not so great optical quality at 21x), but it's the first of its kind built with a sense of responsibility, a metal casing, and the user in mind. I'm not talking about other binoculars, the ones that took the easy way for collimation (easy come, easy go..). Btw, eyepiece focal length synchronisation is done using gears and not that pitiful steel strap most cheap binos use for the "zoom". Considering the fact that i don't have to trash it in case it accidentally breaks during dismantling (like the "strap" ones do), i don't even mind the minor backlash in the gear teeth when changing back and forth between powers using the zoom lever.