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Smartphone Astrophotography

astrophotography imaging equipment
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#1676 SteelStar

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 07:29 AM

My latest images from my XX12g and iPhone 12 Pro Max with NightCap. TeleVue Delos eyepieces attached to FoneMate smartphone adapter. M8 (Lagoon Nebula), M17 (Swan Nebula), M20 (Trifed Nebula)

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • M8 Lagoon Nebula A (2).jpg
  • M17 Swan Nebula  A (2).jpg
  • M20 Trifed Nebula A (2).jpg

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#1677 SteelStar

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 07:42 AM

My latest images from my XX12g and iPhone 12 Pro Max with NightCap. TeleVue Delos eyepieces attached to FoneMate smartphone adapter. M22 (NGC 6656)), M27 (Dumbbell Nebula), M57 (Ring Nebula).

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • M22 Globular Cluster A (2).jpg
  • M27 Dumbbell Nebula (JPG).jpg
  • M57 A  800 x 600.jpg

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#1678 CBM1970

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 08:14 AM

Just got my SB6 this weekend this is my goal to do this, thanks for setting the bar for me!


Thanks for the kind word on the photos, CRAZYeye29325.

I try to capture my best moments at the eyepiece for my own memories, and to show others what they can expect to see when looking through a scope.

I'm pretty sure that our scopes are quite capable of producing far more detailed images than these, if one were to download the multiple software applications needed for processing. I have thought about doing this, but I haven't taken the plunge yet.
(The work of planetary imagers that I've seen on this forum is truly amazing, but one major component of that work consists of a lot of wrestling with computers and programs that I think would suck a lot of the joy out of the experience for me.)

Anyway, I wish you lots of luck in getting great pictures out of your new SB6. I've really had fun with mine!
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#1679 CRAZYeye29325

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 09:19 AM

 one major component of that work consists of a lot of wrestling with computers and programs that I think would suck a lot of the joy out of the experience for me.
 

 

Yes, I do that for a living, I don't even have a pc at the house anymore. My latest favorite epitaph: "I used to love working on computers, but that was a long time ago."

 

TTYL


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#1680 MarMax

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 10:19 AM

I could’ve cranked up the color saturation on the original and brought out some subtle color on a few stars but I didn’t. Plus the filter and other adjustments I made to darken my very light polluted background sky washed the color out. When you stack, even though more color can be seen, you lose that “misty” look and you bloat the stars. It’s the same with galaxy’s, you see more of the spiral arms but you get purple and other colors that don’t look natural to me, thus I choose not to do it. It’s all just what one wants to achieve.

A little late on this response Clint, but you and drcsurf (Dan) are setting the bar high for us and showing just how well a smartphone can capture things. I've been busy with other aspects of my kit so have not done much with the phone lately.

 

Even though the PhoneMate adpter is a fine piece of equipment I'm finding the slight amount of tilt (play) that it has to be problematic. I'm going to try a balance weight to see if I can neutrally balance the phone and possibly stop the tilt. With the S10 camera up top the phone/adapter is quite bottom heavy so when you are under 45 degrees Alt the phone/adapter sits slightly tilted lower on the heavy end. If I use my finger to ever so slightly lift the bottom to square up the adapter the pictures are better, but this is no way to do precise photography.

 

Getting back to clusters, if you have any more tips on maintaining (or enhancing) star colors, please share them. The clusters are my favorite object type to photograph and I would like to be able to maintain the natural colors better. Everything I've been doing so far seems pure greyscale (mono). I've not done any smartphone imaging yet with the AT130 on the G11G and that should be an excellent platform for clusters.



#1681 PolyWogg

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 01:56 PM

I'm pretty sure that our scopes are quite capable of producing far more detailed images than these, if one were to download the multiple software applications needed for processing. I have thought about doing this, but I haven't taken the plunge yet.
(The work of planetary imagers that I've seen on this forum is truly amazing, but one major component of that work consists of a lot of wrestling with computers and programs that I think would suck a lot of the joy out of the experience for me.)

Anyway, I wish you lots of luck in getting great pictures out of your new SB6. I've really had fun with mine!

Hi CBM,

 

I have said almost the exact same thing as you, and I'll tell you that the idea of assembling many hours of data -- say even "hour" let alone "hours" and then spending hours processing is of zero interest to me. Like you, I want souvenir shots, not APOD quality. Stuff to share on FB and elsewhere, maybe some small prints, but that's about it. I describe myself as a primarily visual observer with a bit of AP thrown in. I will never go full rig, I have no interest in it. 

 

However, having said that, there is a much simpler middle ground. If I do 10s of video for example of a planet, and run that video through PIPP with relatively default settings (or maybe slightly tweaked the first time), it gives me a decently cleaned set of images. I can then run that through AutoStakkert with again mostly default settings. It takes a bit the first couple of times, but not hours and hours. Then it is relatively set for what you're doing i.e. planetary stuff

 

The end result is that I can run the video through PIPP in less than a minute and then run that through AST in under 2m. Not hours and hours, just minutes. And in the end, I get way more than I would with a single image exposure unless I'm willing to go up to a MUCH larger Dobsonian size than my 8" SCT. I can go about 10s per video on a planet, and even daisy-chain a few of those if I want more data, but it doesn't drastically alter my processing time. At some point, I'll likely write a small Smartphone Astronomy guide with a section on the simplest processing and the settings. I don't have Adobe, I won't spend hours and hours. But I get stuff that's recognizable at least. Not amazing, but little "fun sucking" either. :) 

 

I thought as you expressed, and in my case it was because all these people said you had to do x, y, z, a, b, c, blah blah blah to get anything even remotely simple/usable. You don't. People do, but you don't have to, and certainly not with smartphone stuff. Just a thought...it's not as large a rabbit hole if you go in with more modest intent.

 

Paul


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#1682 SteelStar

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 02:40 PM

A little late on this response Clint, but you and drcsurf (Dan) are setting the bar high for us and showing just how well a smartphone can capture things. I've been busy with other aspects of my kit so have not done much with the phone lately.

 

Even though the PhoneMate adpter is a fine piece of equipment I'm finding the slight amount of tilt (play) that it has to be problematic. I'm going to try a balance weight to see if I can neutrally balance the phone and possibly stop the tilt. With the S10 camera up top the phone/adapter is quite bottom heavy so when you are under 45 degrees Alt the phone/adapter sits slightly tilted lower on the heavy end. If I use my finger to ever so slightly lift the bottom to square up the adapter the pictures are better, but this is no way to do precise photography.

 

Getting back to clusters, if you have any more tips on maintaining (or enhancing) star colors, please share them. The clusters are my favorite object type to photograph and I would like to be able to maintain the natural colors better. Everything I've been doing so far seems pure greyscale (mono). I've not done any smartphone imaging yet with the AT130 on the G11G and that should be an excellent platform for clusters.

Hello MarMax

 

Regarding the tilt problem your having with the FoneMate, first, I don't see how your S10 is any heavier than my iPhone 12 Pro Max, that said, The problem I was having with slight tilt had to do with my phone case, it was slightly raised all around the 3 camera lenses. I used the supplied leveling strips and put one across the bottom of the plate to level the phone to the EP opening. This may be an option for you.

 

As far as star colors, some globulars are just white/blue and others slightly golden, if you compare my earlier M13 to my recent M22 you can see. Phone cameras pick up yellow/gold better than blue. Try different post processing settings to get the best outcome for you. Just don't expect to get a lot of color the way you would with DSLR or dedicated camera. Best focus, pinpoint stars, is most important. My thinking is, if color is there, great! If it's not, so be it.

Attached Thumbnails

  • FoneMate adapter (800 x 600) (5).jpg
  • FoneMate adapter (800 x 600) (4).jpg

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#1683 CBM1970

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 02:45 PM

Hi CBM,

 

I have said almost the exact same thing as you, and I'll tell you that the idea of assembling many hours of data -- say even "hour" let alone "hours" and then spending hours processing is of zero interest to me. Like you, I want souvenir shots, not APOD quality. Stuff to share on FB and elsewhere, maybe some small prints, but that's about it. I describe myself as a primarily visual observer with a bit of AP thrown in. I will never go full rig, I have no interest in it. 

 

However, having said that, there is a much simpler middle ground. If I do 10s of video for example of a planet, and run that video through PIPP with relatively default settings (or maybe slightly tweaked the first time), it gives me a decently cleaned set of images. I can then run that through AutoStakkert with again mostly default settings. It takes a bit the first couple of times, but not hours and hours. Then it is relatively set for what you're doing i.e. planetary stuff

 

The end result is that I can run the video through PIPP in less than a minute and then run that through AST in under 2m. Not hours and hours, just minutes. And in the end, I get way more than I would with a single image exposure unless I'm willing to go up to a MUCH larger Dobsonian size than my 8" SCT. I can go about 10s per video on a planet, and even daisy-chain a few of those if I want more data, but it doesn't drastically alter my processing time. At some point, I'll likely write a small Smartphone Astronomy guide with a section on the simplest processing and the settings. I don't have Adobe, I won't spend hours and hours. But I get stuff that's recognizable at least. Not amazing, but little "fun sucking" either. smile.gif

 

I thought as you expressed, and in my case it was because all these people said you had to do x, y, z, a, b, c, blah blah blah to get anything even remotely simple/usable. You don't. People do, but you don't have to, and certainly not with smartphone stuff. Just a thought...it's not as large a rabbit hole if you go in with more modest intent.

 

Paul

Thanks for your thoughts and experience on this, Paul. 

 

In the interest of full disclosure, I actually reviewed and bookmarked the PIPP and Autostakkert websites, and watched some instructional YouTube videos just last week! 

 

I am confident that in a fairly short time, after my tenth overcast night in a row, I will download those apps and give them a try with some of the videos I have taken on my phone.

 

Thanks to some of the amazing work I've seen on CN, I was able to recognize some tiny barges in one of my Jupiter videos, so I know the details are in there, waiting to be unlocked...

 

I do like my simple photos, and I do have a fairly antagonistic relationship with technology, but I have no doubt that I'll eventually dip my toes (at least) into this water.



#1684 MarMax

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Posted 25 July 2021 - 04:00 PM

I'll 2x your sentiment in Post #1681 Paul.

 

I picked up a Player One Neptune-CII, mainly to see if it will be helpful in collimating the C11 and to do a little playing around with planetary, Moon and maybe some SharpCap live stacking.

 

Even the short amount of time I've spent using it is really a bit of a drag. The files are huge, the processing is slow and in the end the joy factor is just not there. If I want so see some exceptional AP it's only a few clicks away here on CN.

 

I'm sure I'll get better at using the camera and maybe come up with some simplified routines, but I like using the phone much more. Something about the phone is just so satisfying.



#1685 MarMax

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 11:09 AM

Hello MarMax

 

Regarding the tilt problem your having with the FoneMate, first, I don't see how your S10 is any heavier than my iPhone 12 Pro Max, that said, The problem I was having with slight tilt had to do with my phone case, it was slightly raised all around the 3 camera lenses. I used the supplied leveling strips and put one across the bottom of the plate to level the phone to the EP opening. This may be an option for you.

 

As far as star colors, some globulars are just white/blue and others slightly golden, if you compare my earlier M13 to my recent M22 you can see. Phone cameras pick up yellow/gold better than blue. Try different post processing settings to get the best outcome for you. Just don't expect to get a lot of color the way you would with DSLR or dedicated camera. Best focus, pinpoint stars, is most important. My thinking is, if color is there, great! If it's not, so be it.

Thanks for the information Clint. The S10 in its case sits flat so I'll need to find a way to do some counterbalancing with the FoneMate. I'm going to try a Phone Skope adapter and see what I think. It's a custom molded case for the phone and a physical grip type EP adapter. I'm using my 24mm Panoptics quite a bit now and the FoneMate does not attach to them without another TV adapter.

 

So as far as star color goes, you don't think that taking say 20 pics at a lower exposure and stacking them would be better than a single pic?



#1686 SteelStar

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 12:13 PM

Thanks for the information Clint. The S10 in its case sits flat so I'll need to find a way to do some counterbalancing with the FoneMate. I'm going to try a Phone Skope adapter and see what I think. It's a custom molded case for the phone and a physical grip type EP adapter. I'm using my 24mm Panoptics quite a bit now and the FoneMate does not attach to them without another TV adapter.

 

So as far as star color goes, you don't think that taking say 20 pics at a lower exposure and stacking them would be better than a single pic?

Hey, whichever phone adapter works for you, that’s great I have 5 different ones myself.

 

Yes, stacking lower exposures would help with star color, if you wanted to go that route. Just depends on how much time and effort you take. Try 20 and see what you get. Afterwards decide if you want more etc. etc.

 

All my shots are only 10 seconds (10 x 1sec.) that are averaged together by the NightCap app in “stars” mode. All I do is some editing on my phone and that’s it. I don’t want to spend a lot of time stacking multiple and or long exposures and messing with some fancy editor. I like it quick and simple and easy.

 

Good luck, Clear Skies


Edited by SteelStar, 26 July 2021 - 12:20 PM.

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#1687 CowTipton

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 01:32 PM

My latest images from my XX12g and iPhone 12 Pro Max with NightCap. TeleVue Delos eyepieces attached to FoneMate smartphone adapter. M8 (Lagoon Nebula), M17 (Swan Nebula), M20 (Trifed Nebula)

 

 

My latest images from my XX12g and iPhone 12 Pro Max with NightCap. TeleVue Delos eyepieces attached to FoneMate smartphone adapter. M22 (NGC 6656)), M27 (Dumbbell Nebula), M57 (Ring Nebula).

Amazing that these come from a phone.

I can't wait until my goto arrives so I can try your Nightcap AP process.

Keep 'em coming!



#1688 SteelStar

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 09:45 PM

Amazing that these come from a phone.

I can't wait until my goto arrives so I can try your Nightcap AP process.

Keep 'em coming!

https://youtu.be/hXJo34AvZnQ


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#1689 Dave Mitsky

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Posted 05 August 2021 - 11:59 PM

Here's an afocal iPhone Night Mode photo that I took on Wednesday night using a 5" f/5 achromatic refractor and a 25mm Explore Scientific 70-degree eyepiece.  The exposure time was 3 seconds.

Attached Thumbnails

  • M7 iPhone 5-inch Refractor 8-4-21 IMG_7457 Processed Rotated Cropped Resized 900.jpg

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#1690 CRAZYeye29325

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 12:06 AM

Here's an afocal iPhone Night Mode photo that I took on Wednesday night using a 5" f/5 achromatic refractor and a 25mm Explore Scientific 70-degree eyepiece.  The exposure time was 3 seconds.

Zoomed into that pic, the sheer number of stars in the background is mind blowing! 


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#1691 CRAZYeye29325

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Posted 10 August 2021 - 09:46 AM

This morning's adventures with Jupiter and Saturn. These are single "through the eyepiece" shots with a Samsung S20 FE phone and Orion Starblast 6 f5 reflector with Svbony Zoom at 10mm setting with Shorty Barlow (150x).
 

CBM,

 

I'm not sure of the S20 FE, but the S20+ has a 12MP and 64MP cameras, do you know which is which, top or bottom, and which one do you like better?

 

Thanks, Phil.

 

Edit, the bottom one is 64mp zoom and the top is the 12mp. Just put my finger over the lens, duh...

Not sure what the middle, left and right are.


Edited by CRAZYeye29325, 10 August 2021 - 12:11 PM.

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#1692 FredOz

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Posted 10 August 2021 - 04:18 PM

I'm having disappointing results trying to stack iPhone MOV videos, taken with NightCap and processed through PIPP, Autostakkert and Registax via a tutorial at https://www.youtube....h?v=FQagPJ8pM7Y.

 

I'm shooting through a Skywatcher 150 f/8 telescope (FL=1200mm) and a 9mm eyepiece (@133x) with an iPhone 6s.  The focal length is 553mm (133 times the 4.15mm FL of the iPhone camera lens), while the 35mm equivalent focal length is 3990mm (553 times the crop factor of 7.21).

 

The 1st photo below is the Registax output from a 1m 17s video, shot at ISO 1600 and 1/600s exposures converted to jpeg.  (The 4th photo is a jpg copy of the bmp output from Autostakkert, which was the input to Registax.)  I did not try post-processing since it is so dim.

 

The 2nd photo is a screenshot of the video.  It is much brighter than the stacked image.  

 

In contrast, the 3'rd image is from a still photo through the same equipment shot at ISO 400 and 1/125s and processed in Photoshop.

 

All photos were shot around 10 pm when Saturn was about 30 deg above the horizon.  (I did not want to stay up 'till midnight to get it on the meridian.)

 

Question: NightCap does not save exposure info. (ISO & shutter speed) in the file properties although for still photos, I can get this info. from Deep Sky Stacker (which does not work for videos).  Have you any recommendations for an Exif file properties viewer, especially for MOV files?

 

Question #2: How well would Deep Sky stacker work on individual photos taken with NightCap?  (There would be no stars visible since the planet is much brighter than any stars in the small field of view.)

Attached Thumbnails

  • Saturn ISO 1600 1-600s pipp_lapl5_ap12.jpg
  • Screenshot 2021-08-10 13.32.23.png
  • Saturn-8-3-21-9mmEP-ISO-400-1-125s.jpg
  • sat 9-57 registax.jpg

Edited by FredOz, 10 August 2021 - 04:20 PM.


#1693 CBM1970

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Posted 10 August 2021 - 06:45 PM

CBM,

 

I'm not sure of the S20 FE, but the S20+ has a 12MP and 64MP cameras, do you know which is which, top or bottom, and which one do you like better?

 

Thanks, Phil.

 

Edit, the bottom one is 64mp zoom and the top is the 12mp. Just put my finger over the lens, duh...

Not sure what the middle, left and right are.

Hello, CRAZYeye29325,

 

I hate to admit it but I am barely literate when it comes to these phones. I use the camera(s) on planets and deep sky stuff, and I take planet videos as well. I honestly don't know which camera I'm actually using. I just move it around over the eyepiece until I see the object I'm trying to capture on the screen. It is NOT efficient.

 

Here's my latest Jupiter. I shot this at about 170x with the barlowed Svbony zoom eyepiece. I took about 100 pictures that night and 2 or 3 were "ok". This is one of them. I used 1/60th second for the exposure and ISO of 160. I did some slight contrast and shadow alterations with the phone 's photo editor, and I  enlarged it quite a lot. On good nights (and this was one) I find that I'm always ending up at around 170x with this barlow/zoom combination (just beyond the 9mm setting).  It's funny - I spend some time tweaking things for the best view and when I find the sweet spot I almost always notice that I'm at that location on the zoom.

 

I hope you are having good experiences with your SB6. I'm consistently pleased with the views I get.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20210810_192636.jpg

Edited by CBM1970, 10 August 2021 - 07:00 PM.

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#1694 SteelStar

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Posted 10 August 2021 - 09:41 PM

I'm having disappointing results trying to stack iPhone MOV videos, taken with NightCap and processed through PIPP, Autostakkert and Registax via a tutorial at https://www.youtube....h?v=FQagPJ8pM7Y.

 

I'm shooting through a Skywatcher 150 f/8 telescope (FL=1200mm) and a 9mm eyepiece (@133x) with an iPhone 6s.  The focal length is 553mm (133 times the 4.15mm FL of the iPhone camera lens), while the 35mm equivalent focal length is 3990mm (553 times the crop factor of 7.21).

 

I don't use NightCap to shoot planets, Sun, or Moon. I just use the native camera and adjust exposure with slider bar next to focus box. 

 

The image below was taken back in 2015 with an iPhone 6S Plus. I was using my APM 152ED (FL=1200) refractor and a 6mm Expanse eyepiece with a 2x barlow (400x). A 1 min. MOV video (60fps) was converted to AVI and stacked in RegiStax6 (best 25% frames) and light wavelets were applied.

 

I think I may have converted this file with Prizm converter since it is not centered, but I have used PIPP as well.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Saturn 6-27-2015 007.jpg

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#1695 oszolom

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Posted 19 August 2021 - 07:10 PM

Phone - Realme 8PRO.

Telescope - TS125/975 ED

Eyepiece - Angeleyes 8mm + Baader Hyperion Barlow x2,25 

Stacked MP4/AVI.

 

Jupiter with IO and Saturn.

 

Jowisz_afokal_realme.png

Satrun_Realme.png

 


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#1696 Nom De Qwerty

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Posted 20 August 2021 - 06:18 PM

Hi all. A couple weeks ago I decided to take advantage of Jupiter and Saturn's great positioning and try video capture and processing for the first time.  I've taken single images with varying degrees of success, but given the conditions here, I thought I'd have a better chance at getting good images with some "lucky seeing"  I have since read through this whole thread, looking for tips and tricks on capture and processing (well, I admit I skimmed a bit here and there.  It's a very long thread).  

 

Equipment:

Celestron Edge HD 8" SCT

Evolution Alt/AZ mount with starsense

Celestron NexYZ adapter

Samsung Galaxy S10e 4k 60fps mp4

 

As for the eyepieces.  Uh... I hesitate to admit that I didn't take any notes.  I know they ranged from 9.7 to 15 mm (Meade 4000 series plossls).  I THINK the pics I'm sharing are from the 9.7mm, though I wouldn't swear to it in a court of law. I converted from mp4 to avi and cropped in PIPP, stacked in Autostakkert, and finished processing in Registax.  For a first attempt, I was more than a little pleased, though I know I have room for a lot of improvement:

 

Stacked only:

 

Saturn - Stacked Only.jpg

 

Stacked and Processed:

 

Jupiter - Stacked and Processed.jpg
Saturn - Stacked and processed.jpg

 

I think that both the capturing and processing have a fair amount of tweaking that can be done.  But I'm not sure where to start.  I tried again a week later, and under better conditions, but the best I could come up with was about the same.

 

Right now, I think my main question has to do with video settings.  Pro mode gives me a lot of control, and I think I managed the ISO and exposure settings reasonably well.  But the correct resolution is a bit of a mystery to me.  Should I always use 4K?  I tried to research the question, but mostly found discussions on dslr prime focus photography, which quickly got bogged down in discussions of over (or under) sampling, 1:1 pixel to pixel capture, etc, and I don't think those items are relevant for afocal smartphone work.  Or maybe I'm wrong and those are vital to consider. Opinions?


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#1697 SkyETC

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Posted 21 August 2021 - 12:22 PM

I downloaded a program for the iPhone called NightCap.  it allows you to adjust all sorts of settings on the iPhone camera.....iSO, exposure time and a plethora of other settings to help you get better iPhone pictures.  Try it out and see what you think.  I was able to take some decent pictures last year, but haven't messed with it in a long time......it would be great if I had decent skies so I get out the scopes!!

(Sorry, I guess I missed part of the thread and I just noticed that others have already brought up the NightCap program).  

 

Primary difference is that with a smartphone you have a lens infront of the actual camera sensor so whatever light is entering that really needs to be collimated light, so you therefore need an eyepiece in the scope.

 

With a webcam you remove the lens from the webcam, leave the filter in place and then you focus the image from the scope directly on to the sensor.

 

For planetary imaging you generally take a video so the camera needs top be held immobile for say 60 seconds. You as a person cannot do that, but a webcam holder on a scope more or less can.

 

A smartphone will also I half suspect sort of do its own thing, you do not in effect have the control over the smartphone camera that you would over a webcam for setting assorted functions.

 

People point at the moon and get an image but the moon is the one object that falls into almost "normal" photography. I have found that with the moon the DSLR I have will determine correct exposure and the autofocus (spot) is fine on it. In effect the moon is bright enough for a DSLR in Auto whereas most (all ?) DSO's and widefield are not.

 


Edited by SkyETC, 21 August 2021 - 12:35 PM.

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#1698 Tailspin45

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Posted 05 September 2021 - 10:10 AM

I converted from mp4 to avi and cropped in PIPP, stacked in Autostakkert, and finished processing in Registax.

MP4 is a "lossy" file format meaning the data you capture is compressed and some detail is lost in the process.

 

AVI, on the other hand, is loss-less (although some codecs will compress data saved in an AVI container).

 

If you capture your video as uncompressed RAW data you'll start off in better shape.

 

You may need an app to do that, although I know the  S10e will capture still frames as HEIC which is uncompressed.



#1699 drcsurf

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Posted 06 September 2021 - 05:24 AM

Hey whats up everybody! 

What a horrid summer its been here in Japan. Nothing but clouds and rain. So ive been restacking and reprocessing lots of data i have. This is my best ever M51. Over an hour and a half of data that came from a Galaxy A70 through an Edge 8. One minute exposures but lots of walking noise. Processed in Photoshop and Topaz DeNoise. Still not super clear but hey, its smartphone data😅 Really tried and get it to look like it came from a DSLR or CMOS cam. Just upgraded to an EQ6R mount so looking forward to galaxy season and better images!

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#1700 Noobs66

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Posted 06 September 2021 - 10:55 AM

That's some **** impressive stuff for a phone. It sucks that phones have such strong noise reduction. I think the actual sensors should be quite capable otherwise.
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