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EXOS-2GT Information Thread...

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#376 Gustoresto

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Posted 06 January 2019 - 03:35 PM

Darth says "bypass hand controller? "     The PMC8 has none and is run from a tablet or?       Is he referring to the EXOS 2GT ???   

Oops we B on the EXOS 2 thread which I've followed from the start duh.  Not PMC8  which has moved 2 front part of brain cuz I now own one of them too.   I hear goto motors in my sleep.    I like DSCs a LOT better.   Have 2 scopes w them for 15yrs and they still work!!!      Gus


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#377 Darthstarkiller

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Posted 06 January 2019 - 05:16 PM

Ahh yes, I actually already have a powered 20 foot usb extension. But I didn’t have the RJ9 to RJ45 cable yet. I’m just going to make one.

#378 xon432246

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Posted 12 January 2019 - 03:10 PM

Just ran across this:

 

https://www.teleskop...000 EXOS 2 GOTO

 

Maybe a new version? Notice the different drive motor covers and the Meade hand controller.



#379 PatrickVt

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Posted 12 January 2019 - 04:27 PM

Just ran across this:

 

https://www.teleskop...000 EXOS 2 GOTO

 

Maybe a new version? Notice the different drive motor covers and the Meade hand controller.

Clearly, it looks like Meade Autostar for the GoTo system on an EXOS-2GT...  I don't know anything about the Meade Autostar but it could be a step up.  Personally, I think my next step upward will either be an EXOS-2GT PMC-Eight or a Losmandy G-11.  I'm not ready for the jump yet but I am leaning toward the Losmandy for the much higher capacity.  I'm working on a smaller package right now so I'm playing with and tinkering with the new iEXOS-100 in my living room.  We typically won't see sky here until Spring so...  I'm stuck indoors, learning and playing.

 

I'm going to have to research that Meade Autostar system now.  I once had an interest in a Meade ETX package but I was turned off by all the plastic.  I know virtually nothing about the Autostar system though.

 

Patrick



#380 Darthstarkiller

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 09:09 PM

Does any know off hand what size the allen head bolts are for the RA adjustment. I need to adjust for backlash but I can't seem to find the right size with either of my SAE and Metric allen wrench sets.



#381 Strandon

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 10:56 PM

I got this mount second hand and am having some issues with guiding via the st4.  PHD2 does make corrections and adjustments but the backlash is intense and is causing thin lines to protrude from the stars, creating an almost saturn look to them.  

 

My questions are what types of suggested maintenance, upgrades and service is needed to bring this mount up to the required levels?  Are there any guides or videos to show disassembly and maintenance?  To those that use PHD2 guiding what settings are you finding to work the best?


Edited by Strandon, 11 February 2019 - 11:03 PM.


#382 mwr

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 04:57 AM

A very good description on how to optimize the worm gear you can find here:

 

http://images.vegaop...stage_LXD75.pdf

 

(although it is written in german you can use the pictures in this guide for a rough orientation; the EXOS-2 mount is practically identical to the former Meade LXD-75)

 

by following this procedure I could considerably improve backlash and smoothness

 

additionally here are my PhD algorithms settings:

 

Phd algorithms settings for Bresser EXOS-2 GOTO
 
It is also possible to turn off the backlash compensation and to guide only in one direction in DEC axis (north or south) once you have detected the drift direction due to polar alignment offset.


#383 PatrickVt

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 05:40 AM

I'd be very interested in reading about this through your link, mwr, however your link only reopens this current page.

 

Patrick



#384 Strandon

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 07:59 AM

 

A very good description on how to optimize the worm gear you can find here:

 

http://images.vegaop...stage_LXD75.pdf

 

(although it is written in german you can use the pictures in this guide for a rough orientation; the EXOS-2 mount is practically identical to the former Meade LXD-75)

 

by following this procedure I could considerably improve backlash and smoothness

 

additionally here are my PhD algorithms settings:

 

 
 
It is also possible to turn off the backlash compensation and to guide only in one direction in DEC axis (north or south) once you have detected the drift direction due to polar alignment offset.

 

I would also be interested in following that information in your link, but for some reason it does just redirect back to this topic on Cloudy Nights.  Would you mind sharing it again?

 

Thank you.



#385 PatrickVt

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 09:24 AM

I got impatient waiting for the correct link so I decided to search for "LXD75 worm gear" and came up with a few decent hits for info.  Here is one that is rather poorly written but with enough content to follow fairly well...   http://www.thestarde...enance_101.html

 

Patrick



#386 ttanquary

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 11:16 AM

I concur with the link provided. I used this along with a DVD that I purchased to do a complete re-grease and hyper tune. I’m still working on getting the worm gears adjusted just right but there does seem to be some improvement

#387 Darthstarkiller

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 11:26 AM

I have had to adjust the RA worm gear twice already, and its really not that hard to do. There is definitely a brake-in period with this mount. I would also like some more info on "hyper-tuning" and what all is involved with that.



#388 ttanquary

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 11:43 AM

Here is the link where I purchased the DVD on Hypertuning.  The DVD was geared specifically to the LXD 55 which is why the previous link was helpful because it is the LXD75 which seemed almost identical to the EXOS 2.

 

https://www.deepspac..._4227_8640.html


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#389 Strandon

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 11:44 AM

I concur with the link provided. I used this along with a DVD that I purchased to do a complete re-grease and hyper tune. I’m still working on getting the worm gears adjusted just right but there does seem to be some improvement

What DVD/video are you watching to hyper tune this mount?



#390 Strandon

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 11:55 AM

Here is the link where I purchased the DVD on Hypertuning.  The DVD was geared specifically to the LXD 55 which is why the previous link was helpful because it is the LXD75 which seemed almost identical to the EXOS 2.

 

https://www.deepspac..._4227_8640.html

Thank you!  Do you suggest changing the bearings to the PTFE ones?  



#391 ttanquary

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 12:06 PM

No. I didn't really do anything with the bearings. The nice thing about the EXOS 2 is that it already has the roller bearings not the worm gears and the main shafts.   The bearings on the main shafts are pressed in and i didn't do anything with these. I basically cleaned out the old grease, and polished up some of the main contact surfaces and re-greased.   I'm still not sure how much it improved the performance of the mount, but will let you know when I  have a chance to do some photography. 



#392 Darthstarkiller

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 12:18 PM

Probably the best thing to do is to keep the worm gears adjusted to reduce backlash, and keep clean grease in there. Also the Allen head screws were some weird size on mine. I had to grind down a 4.5mm Allen wrench to fit. 4mm was too small and SAE sizes didn't fit either.



#393 mwr

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 02:05 PM

I'd be very interested in reading about this through your link, mwr, however your link only reopens this current page.

 

Patrick

 

 

I would also be interested in following that information in your link, but for some reason it does just redirect back to this topic on Cloudy Nights.  Would you mind sharing it again?

 

Thank you.

I hope this link will work:

 

http://images.vegaop...stage_LXD75.pdf


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#394 Jerry Hubbell

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 04:03 PM

I ran the linked PDF file through google translate and got the following, this is pretty funny.  Perhaps you can determine what they mean by "snail" and "game"

 

 Page 1
Adjustment of the snail game
Over time, when using your mount, you may find that you have a problem
"Waking up" noticeable. This game can have multiple causes. First we want
Find out which of the parts of the telescope are responsible for the game.
To do this, set up your telescope so that it points to the celestial pole. Then move with the
Fingers the equilibrium axis to the left and right. You will probably find that
Despite the fact that the weight bar is firmly screwed in, the weight of the gel can be slightly shifted. It
Now comes to find out if this game is too big and needs to be readjusted. The
The end of the balance bar is about 10 times farther from the D-axis of the RA axis than
the worm of the worm gear. So, feel a game at the end of the weight bar
of 1mm, the actual game on the snail is only 0.1mm. Such a snail game is going for
Most applications are tolerable.
For the highest demands on the mechanics, for example, in the long-term astrophotography but you will
try to minimize the game further. However, one should be aware that
A
T he setting is time consuming. Follow the following scheme a:
Step 1) Set up the device (with telescope!), Position the motors. You should go here
Possibility to listen carefully without noise.
Step 2) Remove the engine
Step 3) Reduce the screw clearance
Step 4) Mount the engine again.
Step 5) Test Position using the arrow keys. Did the engine noise change?
If yes, the friction is too great, so the contact pressure of the screw too large or the game
too small, the engines have to work too hard. T he medium term on the lifespan
from servo amplifier and motors. If the engine noise does not change, you lead
Carry out the following test: Place the tube diagonally to the mount (ie with an eye on the
W est horizon). Now you should be able to move the tube 360 ​​°, without him on
Mount or tripod strikes. Do a full turn with the motors,
pay attention to the tube and the cables. Does the engine noise stay the same everywhere? If
the noise is even, the game setting is finished, otherwise back to step 1.
B
T he setting can change with high accuracy with temperature: T he
Materials expand differently, which can lead to a change in distance.
It can then happen the effect that in the warm room with great effort the
Optimized game, and out in the cold, the engines no longer rotate.
T he setting of the different varieties in detail:
We have three types of play per axle: pre-gear play, axial and radial
Worm gear game.

Page 2
T he setting of the game betwechen Vorgetrieb and worm drive
With the LXD 75 mount, the pre-gearbox is encapsulated with the engine and firmly connected. Here
should and can not be set a game. The pre-gearbox is connected to the worm via a
Gear pair connected. This pair of gears can be seen by looking at the little black clip
the side of the drive decreases. Keeping the friction in place requires a little play
between the gears, see also figure "Drive with gears 1"
Drive with gears 1
If the game is too big, the gears will not mesh cleanly anymore, see picture
"Drive with gears 2"
Drive with gears 2
In this case slightly loosen the fastening screws of the engine, slightly squeeze the engine
against the screw holder and then tighten the fixing screws again. Should be
Gear loosely seated on the axle, so the gear can after D emontage the engines in the next
Step by tightening the screw 6 in the figure "Declination screw unit 1" again
tightened and secured if necessary with screw lock. D abei is on it too
Make sure that the screw presses on the milled surface of the axle.
In the following we want to eliminate the existing residual play.
Step 1) Take the counterweights, the balance bar and the telescope from the
Mount off. Take the mount from the tripod and place it on the table as shown
"LXD75 with motors 1"

Page 3
LXD75 with motors 1
The two red arrows mark the mounting screws for the motors. Solve the
Unscrew and remove the motors. Together with the Autostar you now have the
entire electronics removed, see figure "Autostar with Motors 1"
Autostar with engines 1

Page 4
Step 2) Locate the 6 screws, the worm shaft, the gear and the mount
set or connect, see illustration "Declination screw unit 1"
Declination screw unit 1
Screws 1 and 2 provide the firm connection of screw unit and declination housing.
Screws 3 and 4 pull the worm to the worm wheel
Screw 5 pushes the screw unit away from the worm wheel
Screw 6 connects gear and worm.
Note: If the screws 1,2,3 and 4 are loosened, the screw unit can be detached from the housing
remove, see illustration "Declination screw unit 2"
Declination screw unit 3

Page 5
The adjusting nut 2 presses the worm axially onto the bearing seats. T he lock nut 1 represents the
Setting fixed.
Now that you have familiarized yourself with the items, you can use the drive game
reset.
If there is no or an acceptable clearance of the worm gear, we have two options:
A) The snail sits loosely between her hens
B) The worm is too far away from the worm wheel
The setting of the axial snail game
First, we check point A):
Now place one finger on the gear belonging to the worm and move it
D concussion housing in the clamped state back and forth. If the gear moves, it sits
Snail loose between the camps. You can adjust that. The sake of simplicity will be in the
following the procedure of minimizing the game on the D ec axis shown.
Loosen the counter nut 1 from the figure "Declination screw unit 2"
Tighten the adjusting nut 2 slightly hand-tight with a small screwdriver. Counter
the adjustment with the lock nut.
Test again the axial play of the snail. If it is eliminated, you can now change the distance
Optimize the worm / worm wheel, or directly reinstall the motors, if the overall play
should have disappeared.
Function test: Reassemble the motors, ensure that the drive gears are correctly spaced.
Place the mount on the tripod, place the counterweights with the rod and the upper part of the stand and put it on
Balancing. Position with the arrow keys. Has the engine noise changed? If so,
the friction is too large, so the contact pressure of the screw too large or the game too small, the
Engines have to work too hard. This goes in the medium term on the life of servo power amplifier and
Engines. If the engine noise has not changed, carry out the following test: Tubus cross
to mount (ie with a view to east or west horizon). Now you should change the tube
360 ° without striking the mount or tripod. N and the engines one
Do the full revolution, paying attention to the tube and the cables. Remains the engine noise
the same everywhere? If the noise is uniform, the axial play adjustment is complete, otherwise
to go back to the setting procedure.
The setting of the Radial Snail Game
With a clean set axial snail play in point 1 we try in the clamped state
The eccentric housing and worm to twist. If no game is noticeable, then the engines can
can be reapplied, and the mount can be tested with a telescope and counterweights
become. If there is still a game, please proceed as follows:

Page 6
Loosen the screws 1,2,3 and 4 in the picture "Declination screw unit 1"
D Turn screw 5 counter clockwise and counter clockwise by 1/4 turn
Tighten the other screws hand-tight in the order 4,3,2 and 1 again. The snail
is now 0.2mm farther on the worm wheel. D rotate the gear with your fingers. The gear
must be easy to turn. If this is the case, re-check the game. Is it eliminated, so
The motors can be grown. You can use the entire telescope with optics and
Weights can be tested. If there is still a game, repeat the process. Is the
Slug too stiff, loosen screws 1,2,3 and 4 and screw in screw 5
slightly to the right in the clockwise direction. Tighten the other screws hand tight, and
Check the game and the game.
Function test: Reassemble the motors, ensure that the drive gears are correctly spaced.
Place the mount on the tripod, place the counterweights with the rod and the upper part of the stand and put it on
Balancing. Position with the arrow keys. Has the engine noise changed? If so,
the friction is too large, so the contact pressure of the screw too large or the game too small, the
Engines have to work too hard. This goes in the medium term on the life of servo power amplifier and
Engines. If the engine noise has not changed, carry out the following test: Tubus cross
to mount (ie with a view to east or west horizon). Now you should change the tube
360 ° without striking the mount or tripod. N and the engines one
Do the full revolution, paying attention to the tube and the cables. Remains the engine noise
the same everywhere? If the noise is uniform, the axial play adjustment is complete, otherwise
to go back to the setting procedure.

 

 

 

Original German text:
Im Laufe der Zeit kann es sein, daß Sie bei der Verwendung Ihrer Montierung feststellen, daß sich ein
Contribute a better translation



#395 Strandon

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Posted 12 February 2019 - 04:13 PM

I was working on the same thing before I got called away from the computer.  Thank you Jerry!

 

I am going to say game=play and snail=slow.  Just a guess though.


Edited by Strandon, 12 February 2019 - 04:15 PM.

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#396 Gustoresto

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Posted 13 February 2019 - 04:49 PM

I've read a lot of verbiage ad nauseum re the adjustment of wrm to ring gear clearance and have found some of it that will actually screw up the procedure. I've now been throught the procedure twice on the EXOS 2GT and just got done an Atlas EQ6 which was a lot more involved.  I may start to offer a professional service for this.   The V best guide to understanding this "backlash" adjustment is the one by Astrobaby for the Skywatcher EQ6  which has a V detailed pictorial rundown of every step in the mesh adjustment process.    The adjuster screw arrangement is a bit diff but the procedure is nearly the same.  All adjustments are done w/o scope or CWs on the mt. The main prob is U have to keep going back and forth w the push-pull adjusting screws while the screws for the worm block are just just snug to allow the worm block to move. Then when U think U have it and tighten the worm carrier down it will change again by maybe .001-.002 or even more which can make yer  worm bind in maybe only one spot on it's circumference, so back U go again and move it a touch.  When U finally get it right the motors will tell U by not groaning,binding,slowing down, complaining and there will be next to ZERO backlash depending on how perfect yer ring gear and worm were machined.    The EXOS 2 has what looks like a mass produced [alloy] Al ring gear and it's not a SS worm either like my EQ6 had along w a BRASS ring gear (better)     Also people sometimes mistake binding in the drive gears w bad worm mesh.  In both my EXOS mts the factory adj on the drive gears was WAY sloppy and had no grease!  I corrected both flaws.   At one point I had the [BRASS] drive gears on my Atlas too tight and they really made the motor strain being immediately obvious by the noise.  Backing the motor adj off a touch and perfecto.     So this whole adjustment biz is a big pita and if U don't take the hours needed to do the back and forth you'll regret it. One wiseacre said it takes the "patience of Job"     Mind U I'm a 40 yr mechanic used to working around bearing tolerances in engine rebuilds of under .003"  !     I told Scott Roberts (ES bossman)   about my "hypertuning course"  in my shop and he said people might pay me serious $$ to do it for them cause I'm relentless in the finer part of the adjusting. There is a company on line Deepspaceproducts that does it for $500 and U gotta try it 2 C why its that much.  I figure it takes 3-5 hrs on an average GEM so we're talking $100 +/hr.       The LXD 75 link suggested is almost right but also has some bad advice like using blue med loctite on the worm brng collet locks  (should B green which gets applied AFTER you adjust worm end float V careful not to get in the brngs! )  Also not made clear re how a screwed down worm carrier precludes adjustment.    Stuff like that.       Regards  Gus


Edited by Gustoresto, 14 February 2019 - 08:15 AM.


#397 Strandon

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Posted 13 February 2019 - 05:19 PM

I noticed when manually moving the mount via the hand controller that the motors sped up when I released the button.  Such as when using a 16x speed to adjust the RA with the arrows I will run it to the point I want, let off the button, then the RA will move a bit further at about 150% the speed I had it set at.  Is this normal for this mount, if not what is the cause for this?



#398 Gustoresto

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 07:58 AM

When U let off the arrow buttons the mt should stop right there except maybe on the higher speeds where it takes an instant to stop which is why U use #3-5 speeds to center yer align stars or other objects. Then U won't overshoot.  In any case the speed shouldn't change like that which indicates a handset giving the motor bad instruction.    The firmware w the EXOS 2 has other reports of runaway slews etc.     A LOT of this type of misbehavior has been fixed by doing a "reset"  in the settings menu which dumps old data giving bad orders.     


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#399 Strandon

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 12:20 PM

To anyone that has taken this mount apart can you tell me if these shims are from the factory, or user modified?  This mount was used and while taking it apart I noticed these. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • DEC.JPG


#400 ttanquary

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 12:58 PM

Those are the same shims I have in my mount that was purchased new.  They are from the factory.  




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