Yes, I was torn between studs and bolts for the same reason you mentioned. I went with 3" studs and on the stud for the slotted hole, I used a knob. The 3" length of the studs allows me to use the slot, but it is likely easier with a bolt, as you mentioned. I don't plan on taking it on/off regularly as I just wheel the out scope out of the garage when I need it. That being said, I would NOT recommend the stud mounting with anything larger than my 8" LX200GPS.
While we (I) are on the subject, I made several modifications to the standard wedge I bought (used) that have worked out very well. If anyone is interested you are welcome to read on.
Being a cheapskate, I opted for the standard wedge due to it's price and availability on the used market, and since my scope is 8", it does not require heavy duty wedges, per say. But I did want smooth and precise adjustments.
I cut a piece of 1/8" Teflon into a circle the same diameter as my scope base, nothing special there, just some work making a jig for my router table. (Teflon machines like butter !!)
But was the most expensive part of the upgrade at $30. Naturally, this ended up between the tripod and the wedge.
I then replaced then 5/16"-16 latitude adjustment knob with a 3/8-24" stainless rod and aluminum knurled knob I bought on an auction site. Drilling out the stabilizer bar for the larger rod was not hard, but took some time setting up on my little drill press. In the end I simply run the original 5/16" rod through the knob and up into the drill chuck to center everything up before I drilled it. This was (is) likely overkill and one could easily do it with a hand drill with patience. I than threaded (tapped) the bored out bar for the 3/8-24 rod. Tap and drill cost was less than $10. I had to flip the stabilizer bar end for end to all the larger knob to engage the tilt plate correctly. I then added a scrape piece of Teflon to the tilt plate to engage the adjustment rod, and added a chrome acorn nut to the rod to allow the larger adjustment rod to push the tilt plate smoothly. And that it does, with the ideas I found here on CN and other websites, I added nylon washers to the tilt plate knobs.
I then used the old "car guy" trick of wet sanding the contact points between the tilt plate and the wedge sides. ( I warned you I was cheap) in lieu of machining anything. I used #1000 grit I bought at the local auto parts store on both surfaces and in less than 5 minutes, they were smooth as silk. I then added the hardest auto wax I had to both, and reassembled the wedge.
I (again using CN and internet resources) put a longer 1/2-13" threaded rod (local hardware store, 12" long) into the tripod/spreader assembly and used a "captive" bolt I rounded with a drill and a file. The longer rod allowed me to use another aluminum knob (from the same auction site) to replace the plastic knob typical supplied with the Meade wedge (yeah, you lose the compass) as well as to pull the wedge off without collapsing the tripod. This mod is described on an old ATM thread, so I am not claiming credit here, but I did mod it to my needs.
After assembling everything, I was VERY pleased with the upgraded wedge. The Teflon plate allows SMOOTH RA adjustments, and the large knob and captive shaft made everything very solid and secure. But simply loosing the knob a touch, the RA floats !
The upgraded 3/8-24 latitude adjuster, with the larger knurled knob, was equally pleasing. With the nylon washers, and "wet-sanded" contact points, the latitude adjustment is very precise and smooth, especially with the fine thread on the new adjuster shaft.
This is just for informational purposes, and to try and payback all the other's whose ideas I used in my wedge mods. I readily (and gratefully) acknowledge all the posters who showed me the way on this.
If anyone is interested, I can post some pictures of the work I did.