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T3ia DSLR cooler Mod...DIY

astrophotography ccd DIY
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#1 starhunter50

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 10:54 AM

Hi everyone, i though i might show my home,made cooler mod for my T3ia DSLR canon. Its completely detachable  from the DSLR...

all the part were found on Amazon and Ebay.

took about 2 weeks of tinkering and only about a few hours a day to get it all together,

here are a few pics of the final product...

after running a few test i was able to get the camera down from 32C+ to about 16C+ while the TEC cooler control was set to -20C below ambient.( can go to -50C)

when testing in BYEOS, it reported a -15C drop on ISO 3200 ....you could actually see the difference on each frame.

will post frames HOT/COOLED, later on.

 On the bottom picture this is what Pixinsight  shows with histogram adjusted for both frames 32C+on the left and 16C on the right.

 these are 5 minutes or 300 sec @ ISO 1600...  you can see the differences in image brightness and intensity.(darker and cleaner on the cooled one +16C )

sorry about the small images. only allowed 500kb on here.

All credit goes to (Martin Pyott) for coaching me along...

Enjoy.

 

Mitch

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_7442.JPG
  • IMG_7445.JPG
  • IMG_7459.JPG
  • kool_1.JPG
  • bottom.jpg
  • cooler_16C_32C_2.gif

Edited by starhunter50, 25 May 2017 - 03:53 PM.

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#2 Orionis91

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 11:23 AM

Interesting build! How does the cooler actually attach to the camera? From what I can tell of the pictures it looks like there is a set of four screws. Did you have to modify the camera to use this cooler? Looking forward to hearing more about how this improves your imaging!


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#3 Gary Z

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 11:34 AM

Very Nice!  Look forward to more postings on this . 



#4 starhunter50

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 11:41 AM

Interesting build! How does the cooler actually attach to the camera? From what I can tell of the pictures it looks like there is a set of four screws. Did you have to modify the camera to use this cooler? Looking forward to hearing more about how this improves your imaging!

No , there is absolutely no dslr modification to be done to the camera, it is mounted  via 1/4 / 20 bottom tripod screw !! :-)

 

Mitch



#5 starhunter50

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 12:00 PM

 

Interesting build! How does the cooler actually attach to the camera? From what I can tell of the pictures it looks like there is a set of four screws. Did you have to modify the camera to use this cooler? Looking forward to hearing more about how this improves your imaging!

No , there is absolutely no dslr modification to be done to the camera, it is mounted  via 1/4 / 20 bottom tripod screw !! :-)

 

Mitch

 

Look at the new picture showing the bottom plate and the centering hole...



#6 kurtzepp

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 12:17 PM

This is great!  I think you should put this on Instructables.  I love to try this I am not sure what exactly you ordered from Amazon?

 

Kurt


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#7 starhunter50

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 12:59 PM

This is great!  I think you should put this on Instructables.  I love to try this I am not sure what exactly you ordered from Amazon?

 

Kurt

I suppose i could make a how to gallery and give some pointers on how to get parts and assemble it...

will see, im not in the greatest of health. Give me a bit to get some images together...

Mitch.


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#8 starhunter50

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 08:15 AM

This is great!  I think you should put this on Instructables.  I love to try this I am not sure what exactly you ordered from Amazon?

 

Kurt

I went to Instructable.com and got instantly got lost on the web page.. LOL

 

Gonna have to use another method, i think.



#9 kurtzepp

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 03:17 PM

Hi Mitch, sorry lead you on wild goose.  Instructables is a bit confusing if you don't use it regularly.  I post stuff once every few years and have to relearn from scratch. Cheers

Kurt.



#10 starhunter50

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 03:37 PM

Thanks Kurt, yea its a bit confusing and overwhelming for me.

 

MItch



#11 ImNewHere

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 06:10 AM

It looks pretty straight forward. Is there any vibration introduced with it?



#12 mjeanneau

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 07:53 AM

How much does the cooler weigh?



#13 starhunter50

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 08:36 AM

It looks pretty straight forward. Is there any vibration introduced with it?

At this point , the frames show no vibrations on them, the stars look sharp, and the fan is brush-less, so its quiet, and smooth.



#14 starhunter50

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 08:40 AM

How much does the cooler weigh?

The cooler adds about ---535 grams (450gr-1lbs)  or 18.1 OZ... just above 1 lbs. i had to move the C8 forward about 3/4 inch on the vixen rail, in the saddle of the AVX.


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#15 Phillip Easton

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Posted 29 May 2017 - 10:49 PM

How far below ambient are you able to go?  I built something similar (not as pretty) for my Canon 60D but it will only keep the camera at ambient temperature.  Normally when doing a series of 5 or 10 mins subs my camera will rise 20 deg F above ambient but with the cooler on it will keep it at ambient.  I also built a lock down screw that fits in the shoe to hold it on the top and bottom.

 

If you are able to get much lower under a load I sure would like to know more about how yours is built.  Maybe it is something I can do to mine.

 

Cheers!

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20150902_072302.jpg
  • cooler.jpg

Edited by Phillip Easton, 29 May 2017 - 10:53 PM.

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#16 starhunter50

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 03:21 PM

How far below ambient are you able to go?  I built something similar (not as pretty) for my Canon 60D but it will only keep the camera at ambient temperature.  Normally when doing a series of 5 or 10 mins subs my camera will rise 20 deg F above ambient but with the cooler on it will keep it at ambient.  I also built a lock down screw that fits in the shoe to hold it on the top and bottom.

 

If you are able to get much lower under a load I sure would like to know more about how yours is built.  Maybe it is something I can do to mine.

 

Cheers!

After running a few test i was able to get the camera down from 32C+ to about 16C+ while the TEC cooler control was set to -20C below ambient.
when testing in BYEOS, it reported a -15C drop on ISO 3200 from 34C+. i will run more test to see how low it goes below the room/outside temp to get a true reading.

 

Very kool idea with the top shoe holder...



#17 HockeyGuy

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Posted 31 May 2017 - 04:43 PM

Good work Mitch! This model looks similar to a youtube video I came across when doing some research before trying my own prototype for a Nikon cooling module. I guess this is Martin's video, kudos to him too: https://www.youtube....h?v=2kRZJ_dKIP0

 

That dark frame comparison is very impressive! You applied the same histogram stretch to both 32 and 16 degree Celsius frames, without clipping any data? For my prototype I connected the TEC to the back of my imaging sensor using a 'copper finger' and thermal paste. I expect this to be provide more efficient cooling than the TEC attached the back of a DSLRs body ...yet my results don't hold a candle to yours!

 

uncool_vs_cool.jpg

 

This is with an IR-modded Nikon D5300, both ISO 200, 600" dark frames with the same histogram stretch applied (compressed as well for posting purposes).

 

Delberson, another member on CN, recently posted his design where he encapsulated his modified DSLR in a hermetically sealed box. Check it out, I think his work is top notch and it inspired me to take my project one (or several) steps further: https://delberson.bl...amera-dslr.html

 

Cheers,

 

Adam


Edited by HockeyGuy, 31 May 2017 - 04:46 PM.


#18 starhunter50

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Posted 31 May 2017 - 05:13 PM

Wow, hockeyGuy, still those frames have a difference and thats what its all about just bringing the noise down a tad.

 

yes both frames were stretched lightly to show the noise patterns, and of the same amount.

 

keep up the  good work. 

 

Mitch



#19 Phillip Easton

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 11:33 AM

Not sure if I made my self clear.  When you take multiple subs or darks the heat builds up in the camera.  So as you can see in my chart about the red line shows what happens when taking 5 mins subs one after another.  For the blue line I just took a quick image (< 1 sec) to read the temperature of the camera via Backyard EOS.  This shows the potential cooling of my mod.  The green line is taking 5 min darks one after the other with cooling on, again the temperature is reported by Backyard EOS.  So I get a delta of about 20 deg F ( ~ 11 C).  So my question is what happens to your temperature when you take a series of darks one after another? 

 

Also which TEC model did you end up using?  I am thinking of trying a larger one to see if I can get more cooling.  

 

I think also that my mod would benefit from a wider surface area within the camera screen well so I plan to do something similar to what he did in the video with the copper plates.  I need all the cooling I can get since it gets so hot here.

 

Cheers!



#20 starhunter50

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 12:55 PM

The TEC im using is the  "12706 TEC" 4 Amps 15V max.  the recommend one is 12704 TEC... 

As for cooling i dont need the TEC to go -20C below ambient ,

only as long as it stays  away from 33C+ to 41C+  on the CMOS chip and stays around +15C that give me a nice background with a lot less noise.

that was the idea behind the cooler to begin with. This way all my frames are the same TEMP...

 

 

mitch



#21 starhunter50

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Posted 10 June 2017 - 01:00 PM

Not sure if I made my self clear.  When you take multiple subs or darks the heat builds up in the camera.  So as you can see in my chart about the red line shows what happens when taking 5 mins subs one after another.  For the blue line I just took a quick image (< 1 sec) to read the temperature of the camera via Backyard EOS.  This shows the potential cooling of my mod.  The green line is taking 5 min darks one after the other with cooling on, again the temperature is reported by Backyard EOS.  So I get a delta of about 20 deg F ( ~ 11 C).  So my question is what happens to your temperature when you take a series of darks one after another? 

 

Also which TEC model did you end up using?  I am thinking of trying a larger one to see if I can get more cooling.  

 

I think also that my mod would benefit from a wider surface area within the camera screen well so I plan to do something similar to what he did in the video with the copper plates.  I need all the cooling I can get since it gets so hot here.

 

Cheers!

 


Here is the iris NGC7023 10 hours of integration with the TEC set to -20C..

Attached Thumbnails

  • GR2_final_NGC7023_Iris_NEB4_CS4_AB_Procc_flatened_resized_enhanced_noise reduction_final_SM2.jpg

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#22 mjeanneau

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Posted 11 June 2017 - 09:53 PM

Sold! I just ordered the parts!...I am building one of these things

CS

Mike


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#23 starhunter50

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Posted 12 June 2017 - 11:22 PM

Sold! I just ordered the parts!...I am building one of these things

CS

Mike

keep me posted on your progress... if you need pics of the build to help you out, send me an Email..  rcfmitch (AT) gmail.com



#24 mjeanneau

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 05:01 PM

I might do a variation of the cooler. I was thinking of moving the box with the control board to the center of my rig and attach it to the 1/4-20 post on the rear ring on my ED 80. Even though I'm set up on a permanent pier, I'm thinking 1) get some weight off the camera end for better balance and 2) buy me some clearance on the bottom of the camera. My SW has the stock crayford 2-speed focuser on it so I might have to tweak the thing a little for the extra weight.

 

On second thought, my 700D weight almost half the weight of my 50D, so it and the cooler would be only a couple ounces heavier than the 50D (which the focuser handled fine BTW)

 

Thoughts?

CS

Mike



#25 mjeanneau

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 05:02 AM

Well, it is done, however (and this is what kept me from testing it last night), with my present setup I can't balance the rig in DEC. I have a stock SW ED 80 with stock mounts and ring and I am going to need either different rings/dovetail or add weight to the opposite side. I have some lead flashing and plenty of e-tape, so I'm thinking of cutting some strips of lead and putting it as far forward (next to the dew heater) as possible.

 

On the operational side, since I have AC power in my observatory, I am using a spare 12v, 1A power supply that it seems to be working, tho the 4 amp rating of the peltier cooler makes me think of going higher on the amp rating. The conniption purrs like a kitten, though....pretty neat! pictures and a for-real test coming soon

CS

Mike




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