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Byers Drive C8 Disassembly

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61 replies to this topic

#51 Geo31

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 10:52 PM

Well, it was clear tonight.  Somewhat.  So I pulled out the Super C8 and figured I'd check the collimation and or adjust it.

 

LOL....

 

This is Houston.  In the summer.  Before I could get everything set up it was covered with a layer of dew so thick it will take until next week to clear.

 

I gently wiped the corrector and tried to check it out.  Pretty awful.  But it was enough to know the optics are not any more screwed up than beforehand.  I could only get a rough-rough estimate of the collimation and it seemed as good as it was before the fall.

 

Now to wait for the rare Houston night that is not only clear and dry, but I'm not worn out from the day.

 

I think it's OK though.


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#52 checkitout

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 05:17 PM

Thanks for all the useful info. Picked one up over the holidays for 50.00. Will use you instructions to  see why the gear is not turning. Hope all as smooth as yours did. Most likely not. But, I'll give it a go...



#53 Geo31

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 05:24 PM

Thanks for all the useful info. Picked one up over the holidays for 50.00. Will use you instructions to  see why the gear is not turning. Hope all as smooth as yours did. Most likely not. But, I'll give it a go...

If you can't figure it out, be sure to take pics.

 

I would start by simply removing the cover plate to the drive and see if everything at least looks correct and isn't wobbling.  A couple of years ago someone took a time lapse of their drive and found a HUGE amount of wobble in the drive, but that was a rare case.  However, it could be a mounting screw is loose or a motor is bad.  You should be able to tell quickly.

 

Good luck.



#54 Psyches

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Posted 21 March 2019 - 06:40 PM

So, Geo31, you're my hero, and quite possibly many others' hero as well - I just acquired an old C8 with hopes to get back into astronomy a bit, and it has the Byers drive which did not seem to be driving...being unable to find any maintenance manuals or parts lists or anything (really I found minimal info on the Byers drive - most just say "it's great" and a few specs re: 359 teeth and why)...I found your pictures here, and it gave me the confidence to do my own disassembly work.  In looking for a replacement motor source, I found several other mentions of this thread on various sites around the web!

 

I took more pictures; if it's ok I will post those as well...it may help expedite the work for those searching for similar info.



#55 Psyches

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Posted 23 March 2019 - 02:26 PM

I created an album with pics & info: https://www.cloudyni...ve-disassembly/

 

I'll add to it when I get things working again.



#56 Geo31

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Posted 23 March 2019 - 05:25 PM

So, Geo31, you're my hero, and quite possibly many others' hero as well - I just acquired an old C8 with hopes to get back into astronomy a bit, and it has the Byers drive which did not seem to be driving...being unable to find any maintenance manuals or parts lists or anything (really I found minimal info on the Byers drive - most just say "it's great" and a few specs re: 359 teeth and why)...I found your pictures here, and it gave me the confidence to do my own disassembly work.  In looking for a replacement motor source, I found several other mentions of this thread on various sites around the web!

 

shocked.gif

 

OMG, I'm truly humbled.

 

 

 

I took more pictures; if it's ok I will post those as well...it may help expedite the work for those searching for similar info.

OF COURSE!  Please do.  That's awesome.  We're all here to help each other.  I had NO idea I was actually helping anyone.


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#57 Psyches

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Posted 30 March 2019 - 01:38 PM

Cool, so I posted a few more photos of the new motor with info etc to the same album.

 


 

I took everything apart, cleaned the worm gear and worm, re-lubed with Super Lube (per suggestion by a number of folks around), got a new motor and made a spindle adapter (vendor info and details on old read-only thread at a different site, pointed in my album, but I kept a copy of the thread in case the site goes away), and did a test fit/test run of everything.  So I was all set...

 

But a member here had a classified ad for a used, great condition direct replacement motor - so I bought and used that instead of my new one, which I'll keep as a backup.

 

Everything is back together and works very well.  Success!


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#58 ANM

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Posted 06 January 2021 - 01:23 PM

I know I'm almost four years late and a dollar short, but I just found this and felt I had to comment.

That is an excellent writeup George! I wish I had found it before I disassembled my mount.

I have 2 comments:

1. the spring that goes on top of the setting circle in image #2 can be put in place after putting the carrier, the setting circle, and the top gear together, just slip it into the gap.

2. re the 3 nylon posts in the lower base that rub on the underside of the worm wheel, I think their purpose is to make the fork mount more rigid by combating flexing in the thin die cast base. When you assemble the mount take out the 3 Allen set screws plugging the holes and back off the nylon screws - they have a slot cut in the threaded end. After assembling the mount use a suitable screw driver to adjust them from below with a screw driver, to just press lightly on the worm wheel - it's easy to get them too tight. Adjust them evenly and equally. Then put the Allen set screws back in but barely apply pressure to the nylon screws else you will force them further up into the worm wheel.

OK, longer post here.  Here are the components and assembly of the drive and fork base...

 

First the main ring that everything attaches to:

 

kJdgALw.jpg

 

You can see the spring attached in the wrong place.  You also see the underside of the slo-mo gear with the recess that fits onto the main ring.

 

Next are the pieces that attached the RA SC:

 

k2pVEPk.jpg

 

The SC goes onto the main ring.  Then the spring goes on top of the SC.  Then the slo-mo gear goes on top of that.  Extra points if you have 3 hands.  It would make assembly easier because you have to hold the slo-mo gear in place against the pressure of the spring (which I "enhanced" with some small bends).  While holding it all together, you have to thread some socket head cap screws up through the main ring, into the slo-mo gear.  The spring provides pressure against the SC to hold it in place once you set the SC to the initial coordinates.

 

Next is all this assembled:

 

6e1EUD0.jpg

 

Now you can see the underside of the main ring with the SC assembly completed:

 

y1N8izR.jpg

 

The gear simply slips over the main ring.  It's a really snug fit.  Excellent machining.  Because it's a snug fit, you have to align the bolt holes up very precisely.  You can see how I used a flashlight to align them.  I also found out the threads were 8-32, so I used some extra 8-32 bolts to ensure the alignment was correct enough to allow it all to bolt together.

 

qfDBKH4.jpg

 

Here is everything attached to the main ring:

 

E2qBlMM.jpg

 

And finally, the main ring attached to the hub:

 

4hHELco.jpg

 

The main ring simply sets upon the hub in a machined recess.  The gold colored bit is the clutch and is simply metal on metal, although there is a nylon screw for tension adjustment.  The four screws you see on the clutch are the ones that were really loose and two fell out, allowing the fork assembly to crash into the worm, damaging the RA SC.  I chased the threads with a tap and used 1" instead of the factory 7/8" machine screws with a little reversible thread lock.  Should be good to go for years now.

 

The four bolts actually bolt into the fork assembly piece.  When this is done, it all slides over the RA shaft (as illustrated in one of the earlier photos).  It's held in place with a washer and machine screw.  Put the cap over the screw and bolt the forks on and you're done (at least one fork must be bolted to the OTA or you won't be able to get the OTA on).

 

Here are the socket head cap screws I mentioned.  I just need to get longer ones (the original hex heads are back in place for now).

 

QZLvRC4.jpg


Edited by ANM, 06 January 2021 - 01:24 PM.


#59 geophilip06

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Posted 14 June 2021 - 11:42 AM

Nice job! You'll know if it's flat enough when you start putting it back together. The only hard part will be keeping that big C spring in place until you can get a screw or two started.

There's a Harbor Fright in Conroe. Fright...Haha. :)



#60 Gary Esterly

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Posted 02 December 2021 - 09:34 AM

Not sure if I am overstepping my bounds and hijacking this post, but I am having difficulty disassembling the drive off of a donated C8 Powerstar drive & fork assembly. I have managed to remove the primary drive without issue. My problem is I cant seem to figure out how to separate the various pieces. As you can see, the parts are in SERIOUS need of cleaning an the Right Ascension ring is bent and needs to be fixed. I have seen some disassembly videos on YouTube as well as other online posts, but generally speaking there are no specifics as to how the various parts were separated. Any help would be MUCH appreciated.

 

20211201 111356
20211201 111419
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#61 ANM

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Posted 02 December 2021 - 09:53 AM

Just when I think I know all the C8 RA drive varieties a new one crops up!



#62 Astrophoche

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Posted 01 August 2022 - 02:26 PM

How about 5 years later…. I don’t have the Byers Drive, just the “plain old”dual motor variety, but this thread helped me get the “old gal “ rotating again. The tip about where that “broken piece of wire” (the spring! DOH!”) goes was the missing link to getting it all back together correctly and functioning like before. I didn’t see anything that really looked like it needed lubricants since it was all screwed together and it was obvious that there never was any grease on the gear driven by the motors. So I did use some Goof Off to get the 50 year old lube turned sticky stuff off of things and it appears to be working correctly. I’ll have to get it out on a decent night and see if it tracking OK, but this thread helped me a lot. Posting the step by step (even if sometimes we go backwards) is so helpful to those that follow us!  Great job to the CN team of tinkerers!

 




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