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Solar Eclipse Maestro

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#26 andysea

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 01:58 PM

I am not sure of this but my understanding is that the emergency script ignores the offsets from the contacts.

You start it manually and the offset times start from the time that the script was launched. I think once you have your script figured out you can build an emergency script where the times are written sequentially starting from the manual launch and match your script.

 

I'm hope others will be able to chime in with a more accurate description.



#27 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 03:54 PM

Thank you for looking into it Jerry.

 

I tried both your scripts and I get the same behavior, first burst is fast then the other ones are at the slower burst rate. 

I'll try to space the bursts further apart. Interesting that you used CHGSSL before every burst.

The 7DII seems to be the best choice for this type of imaging.

Hi Andy,

 

I corresponded with Xavier about this and he said that it is intentional behavior that he programmed in for the burst rate to revert to the slower one after the first high speed burst.

 

I don't know why you are not getting the high speed burst if you include the CHGCSLL command before every burst.

 

Jerry



#28 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 03:55 PM

Probably a Noob question, but can anybody tell me the purpose of an "emergency script" and what it should include?  Both SEM and SETnC refer to them, but don't document them.

Emergency script is if it turns out there are clouds and you end up only having a short hole in the clouds to shoot a sequence.

 

Jerry



#29 Seldom

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 04:13 PM

Emergency script is if it turns out there are clouds and you end up only having a short hole in the clouds to shoot a sequence.

.

 

Jerry

 

Thanks, Jerry.  Does that mean maybe it should just include the times between 2nd and 3rd contact, or should it bump up the ISO to compensate for clouds?



#30 andysea

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 07:44 PM

 

Thank you for looking into it Jerry.

 

I tried both your scripts and I get the same behavior, first burst is fast then the other ones are at the slower burst rate. 

I'll try to space the bursts further apart. Interesting that you used CHGSSL before every burst.

The 7DII seems to be the best choice for this type of imaging.

Hi Andy,

 

I corresponded with Xavier about this and he said that it is intentional behavior that he programmed in for the burst rate to revert to the slower one after the first high speed burst.

 

I don't know why you are not getting the high speed burst if you include the CHGCSLL command before every burst.

 

Jerry

 

Thank you Jerry. That is very strange I did include the CHGCSSL command before every burst, I even tried to space the events apart by a few seconds.

Perhaps that is OK as with the slow burst I can still get 3fps and spacing the clicks further apart will allow for spreading them out more during the progression of the phase. What do you think?
 

The only reason that I can think of is that the 5D4 uses a different DiGIC processor than the 7D. I will keep experimenting.


Edited by andysea, 06 August 2017 - 09:55 AM.


#31 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 07:58 PM

 

Emergency script is if it turns out there are clouds and you end up only having a short hole in the clouds to shoot a sequence.

.

 

Jerry

 

Thanks, Jerry.  Does that mean maybe it should just include the times between 2nd and 3rd contact, or should it bump up the ISO to compensate for clouds?

 

No, it should be even shorter than that. The absolute minimum to grab an HDR sequence for the corona at 2-stop exposure intervals from about 1/1000th second to 1 second. Or 7 stops total.

 

something you can execute in 15-20 seconds if you have a hole in the clouds.

 

Bumping the ISO to compensate for clouds is probably not necessary as you are bracketing anyway.

 

Unless you have smoke, or fairly even cirrus that doesn't change much and you can take a test exposure during partial phases to get a handle on what exposure compensation you want to use.

 

Jerry



#32 Seldom

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Posted 07 August 2017 - 04:19 PM

Another general question:  Does anyone have general recommendations about photo spacing?  The default seems to be 3 seconds, but I suspect others are using much shorter times.  Any advice on why?



#33 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 07 August 2017 - 04:32 PM

Another general question:  Does anyone have general recommendations about photo spacing?  The default seems to be 3 seconds, but I suspect others are using much shorter times.  Any advice on why?

You have to figure that out with actual real-world testing with your particular setup.

 

Every camera / card / software combo is going to be slightly different.

 

Jerry


Edited by Jerry Lodriguss, 07 August 2017 - 04:33 PM.


#34 fielderda

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Posted 07 August 2017 - 09:44 PM

I've been having similar issues with burst shots and have decided to take images every 3 seconds, which writes to the SD card without delays or skips. 

 

For my Canon 80D and telescope (Celestron EDGE HD 8); I'll keep the Liveview off since tracking should be good. I'll use Liveview ON during totality on my Canon 60D/300mm lens and a Manfrotto tripod, so I can make minor course adjustments. 

 

I also find that if I have a .wav file play within 1 second of taking an image, I can get the odd skip.

Has anyone experienced this?

 

Thanks and Clear Skies!



#35 Seldom

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Posted 09 August 2017 - 04:58 PM

Just got these results running the SEM Wizard script with my Canon 60Da.  Scope's and NP101is w/ .8x FL reducer (435mm EFL FOV~4 suns x 6 suns).  These were exposed with 3 second delay so half the totality set is the 19 frames.  Should I be happy?  I was hoping to make an HDR compostion of totality but I see I'll only have two frames of most exposures, so there won't be much to stack.

 

For Between Contacts 1 & 2 and 3 & 4:

Attached File  IMG_1495 SM.jpg   34.85KB   6 downloads

 

Half the symmetrical totality run:

Attached File  LunarTotality2.jpg   60.27KB   2 downloads

 

Halfway point in the totality ramp:

Attached File  IMG_1806SM.jpg   36.41KB   2 downloads



#36 andysea

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Posted 09 August 2017 - 05:10 PM

With my 6d I am able to use 1.5 second delay for the corona.
I think how fast you can go depends on the buffer depth of your camera and the write speed of the SD card. With the 5d4 I can go indefinitely long at about 3fps if I use a very fast CF card. However 1.5s seems to work best if I use mirror lockup.

#37 Seldom

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Posted 09 August 2017 - 06:01 PM

With my 6d I am able to use 1.5 second delay for the corona.
I think how fast you can go depends on the buffer depth of your camera and the write speed of the SD card. With the 5d4 I can go indefinitely long at about 3fps if I use a very fast CF card. However 1.5s seems to work best if I use mirror lockup.

How many exposures can you get during totality with 1.5 second delay + mirror lockup?  I've got 38 total.



#38 andysea

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Posted 09 August 2017 - 06:20 PM

I get

 

(34) bracketed for the corona

(4) earthshine

(10+10) Chromosphere

(10+10) Prominences

 

For prominences and chromosphere I use the TAKEBST command

 

I have about 132 total shots from start to end including Baily's beads and diamond rings. However sometimes I get 133 or 134 because the bursts are inconsistent at times.

This is with the 6D. I haven't tested the 5D4 yet but it should breeze through this as it's much faster.


Edited by andysea, 09 August 2017 - 06:21 PM.


#39 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 09 August 2017 - 06:56 PM

Just got these results running the SEM Wizard script with my Canon 60Da.  Scope's and NP101is w/ .8x FL reducer (435mm EFL FOV~4 suns x 6 suns).  These were exposed with 3 second delay so half the totality set is the 19 frames.  Should I be happy?  I was hoping to make an HDR compostion of totality but I see I'll only have two frames of most exposures, so there won't be much to stack.

 

You stack to improve signal to noise. You will have plenty of light here, and good s/n in each individual frame because you are shooting at a low ISO.

 

You shoot an exposure sequence at different exposures to composite together into an HDR image.

 

Those two things are not the same thing...

 

Plus, you will only be using the high s/n part of each image in the composite, so not having a lot of frames to stack is not a big deal.

 

Two frames at each exposure gives you a 1.4x improvement in s/n. 4 frames would give you a 2x improvement.  That's what, only a 30 percent improvement?

 

If you want more frames, you could try a shorter MLU, but you will have to test it with your setup.

 

Jerry


Edited by Jerry Lodriguss, 09 August 2017 - 06:57 PM.


#40 Seldom

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 12:26 AM

Thanks, Jerry and Andy.  I've got to do more testing and better scripting with TAKEBST.  My latest run shows 126 frames Filters On to Filters Off.



#41 cdavid

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 10:10 AM

Hi guys, I'm a bit confused and sorry for the question if it is obvious.  I was looking at Jerry's timings on his blog post and noticed that those generated in my script by SEM are significantly different.  I am using a Canon 7D with the fastest card I could find and I still need to keep exposures to 3 sec intervals.  I used Xavier's script to come up with this game plan and was successfully able to insert a burst of 3/sec and shoot multiple stops during Totality for the Corona.

 

For example, I see in Jerry's post that he shoots Baily's beads at C2 -06 and Diamond ring at  C2 -03  then his chromosphere shots are at C2 +0 and C2+ 03 where as my xavier script is shooting Diamond ring at C2 -12 and Baileys Beads at C2 -1.5.  I know that it partly depends on your definition of Bailys beads but I'm struck by the C2 -06 versus C2 -12 difference.

 

For those interested, this is the script that SEM generated for me.  I've tested it outside under real conditions and the camera shoots all the frames without issue including the burst of 6 frames.  If anyone see's something obviously wrong please let me know.

 

My script:

 

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),0,3.006,4
TAKEPIC,C2,-,00:12.0,7D,1/800,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,First Diamond Ring
ENDFOR
FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,3.006,4
TAKEPIC,C3,+,00:12.0,7D,1/800,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Second Diamond Ring
ENDFOR

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),0,3.000,4
TAKEPIC,C2,-,00:01.5,7D,1/4000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C2 Baily's Beads
ENDFOR
FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,3.000,4
TAKEPIC,C3,+,00:01.5,7D,1/4000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C3 Baily's Beads
ENDFOR

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,3.000,4
TAKEPIC,C2,+,00:03.0,7D,1/4000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C2 Chromosphere
ENDFOR
FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),0,3.000,4
TAKEPIC,C3,-,00:03.0,7D,1/4000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C3 Chromosphere
ENDFOR

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,3.000,2
TAKEPIC,C2,+,00:15.0,7D,1/2000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C2 Prominences
ENDFOR
FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),0,3.000,2
TAKEPIC,C3,-,00:15.0,7D,1/2000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C3 Prominences
ENDFOR

TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:56.8,7D,1/1250,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,N,Solar corona Rs = 0.1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:53.8,7D,1/1000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:50.8,7D,1/800,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:47.8,7D,1/640,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:44.8,7D,1/500,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:41.8,7D,1/400,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:38.8,7D,1/320,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:35.8,7D,1/250,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:32.8,7D,1/200,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:29.8,7D,1/160,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:26.8,7D,1/125,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:23.7,7D,1/100,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:20.7,7D,1/80,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:17.7,7D,1/60,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:14.7,7D,1/50,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:11.7,7D,1/40,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:08.7,7D,1/30,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 1.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:05.6,7D,1/25,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 1.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:02.5,7D,2.5,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,N,Solar corona Rs = 10.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:08.0,7D,2,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 10.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:13.0,7D,1.6,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 8.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:17.6,7D,1.3,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 8.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:21.9,7D,1,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 8.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:25.9,7D,1/1.3,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 8.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:29.7,7D,1/1.6,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 6.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:33.3,7D,1/2,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 6.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:36.8,7D,1/2.5,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 6.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:40.2,7D,1/3,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 6.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:43.5,7D,1/4,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 4.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:46.8,7D,1/5,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:50.0,7D,1/6,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:53.1,7D,1/8,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:56.3,7D,1/10,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:59.4,7D,1/13,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,01:02.4,7D,1/15,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,01:05.5,7D,1/20,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 1.0

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,5.000,1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:02.5,7D,2,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,N,Earthshine
ENDFOR

# Burst
CHGCSSL,C2,-,00:04.0,7D, , ,3, , , , ,Set to 3 fps
TAKEBST,C2,-,00:03.0,7D,1/4000,5.9,200,6,RAW,None,N,Burst of 6 pictures

 

Thanks

Carlos


Edited by cdavid, 10 August 2017 - 10:11 AM.


#42 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 02:15 PM

Hi guys, I'm a bit confused and sorry for the question if it is obvious.  I was looking at Jerry's timings on his blog post and noticed that those generated in my script by SEM are significantly different.  I am using a Canon 7D with the fastest card I could find and I still need to keep exposures to 3 sec intervals.  I used Xavier's script to come up with this game plan and was successfully able to insert a burst of 3/sec and shoot multiple stops during Totality for the Corona.

 

For example, I see in Jerry's post that he shoots Baily's beads at C2 -06 and Diamond ring at  C2 -03  then his chromosphere shots are at C2 +0 and C2+ 03 where as my xavier script is shooting Diamond ring at C2 -12 and Baileys Beads at C2 -1.5.  I know that it partly depends on your definition of Bailys beads but I'm struck by the C2 -06 versus C2 -12 difference.

 

For those interested, this is the script that SEM generated for me.  I've tested it outside under real conditions and the camera shoots all the frames without issue including the burst of 6 frames.  If anyone see's something obviously wrong please let me know.

 

My script:

 

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),0,3.006,4
TAKEPIC,C2,-,00:12.0,7D,1/800,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,First Diamond Ring
ENDFOR
FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,3.006,4
TAKEPIC,C3,+,00:12.0,7D,1/800,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Second Diamond Ring
ENDFOR

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),0,3.000,4
TAKEPIC,C2,-,00:01.5,7D,1/4000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C2 Baily's Beads
ENDFOR
FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,3.000,4
TAKEPIC,C3,+,00:01.5,7D,1/4000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C3 Baily's Beads
ENDFOR

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,3.000,4
TAKEPIC,C2,+,00:03.0,7D,1/4000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C2 Chromosphere
ENDFOR
FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),0,3.000,4
TAKEPIC,C3,-,00:03.0,7D,1/4000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C3 Chromosphere
ENDFOR

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,3.000,2
TAKEPIC,C2,+,00:15.0,7D,1/2000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C2 Prominences
ENDFOR
FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),0,3.000,2
TAKEPIC,C3,-,00:15.0,7D,1/2000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,C3 Prominences
ENDFOR

TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:56.8,7D,1/1250,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,N,Solar corona Rs = 0.1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:53.8,7D,1/1000,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:50.8,7D,1/800,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:47.8,7D,1/640,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:44.8,7D,1/500,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:41.8,7D,1/400,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:38.8,7D,1/320,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:35.8,7D,1/250,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:32.8,7D,1/200,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:29.8,7D,1/160,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.2
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:26.8,7D,1/125,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:23.7,7D,1/100,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:20.7,7D,1/80,5.6,200,0.000,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:17.7,7D,1/60,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:14.7,7D,1/50,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:11.7,7D,1/40,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 0.5
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:08.7,7D,1/30,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 1.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:05.6,7D,1/25,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 1.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:02.5,7D,2.5,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,N,Solar corona Rs = 10.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:08.0,7D,2,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 10.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:13.0,7D,1.6,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 8.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:17.6,7D,1.3,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 8.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:21.9,7D,1,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 8.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:25.9,7D,1/1.3,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 8.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:29.7,7D,1/1.6,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 6.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:33.3,7D,1/2,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 6.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:36.8,7D,1/2.5,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 6.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:40.2,7D,1/3,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 6.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:43.5,7D,1/4,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 4.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:46.8,7D,1/5,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:50.0,7D,1/6,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:53.1,7D,1/8,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:56.3,7D,1/10,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,00:59.4,7D,1/13,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,01:02.4,7D,1/15,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 2.0
TAKEPIC,MAX,+,01:05.5,7D,1/20,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,Y,Solar corona Rs = 1.0

FOR,(INTERVALOMETER),1,5.000,1
TAKEPIC,MAX,-,00:02.5,7D,2,5.6,200,0.300,RAW,None,N,Earthshine
ENDFOR

# Burst
CHGCSSL,C2,-,00:04.0,7D, , ,3, , , , ,Set to 3 fps
TAKEBST,C2,-,00:03.0,7D,1/4000,5.9,200,6,RAW,None,N,Burst of 6 pictures

 

Thanks

Carlos

Generate multiple scripts in SEM with different spacings between frames and it will generate different timings for the DR and BB.

 

Jerry


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#43 cdavid

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 04:48 PM

Oh duh!! I'm getting too old...how that evaded me??? Ugh!

Thanks Jerry

#44 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 06:24 PM

Oh duh!! I'm getting too old...how that evaded me??? Ugh!

It's not something that is immediately obvious... I didn't notice it until I looked at a couple of scripts side by side.

 

Jerry


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#45 banjo1000

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Posted 11 August 2017 - 02:39 AM

I'm late to programming my Canon 6D, but I have some answers, some observations, and a bunch of questions. DSLRs have a local buffer for recording bursts and then transfer to SD (or other) memory cards. The burst speed is limited by the speed of the mechanical shutter curtain. See

 

  https://www.usa.cano...ras/dslr/eos-6d

 

and look for Drive System. The maximum continuous 6D speed is 4.5 fps. To verify, set camera to Manual, turn off autofocus or remove the lens, and set the drive mode to continuous. Then hold the trigger down.  There is also a silent continuous mode which I'll come to in a second.

 

According to Canon support, the local buffer acts like a pipeline and continually writes to the memory card. Not all ultra high speed (UHS-I) cards are created equal

 

 https://www.camerame...ard-comparison/

 

The 64GB sweet spot (bang for buck) IMHO is the Kingston U3 90/80 MB/s 64GB, which is what I purchased

 

Ultimately, the shutter can shoot faster than the buffer can write in continuous mode. In continuous mode, the 6D buffer fills after about ~ Raw 17 shots according to Canon's specification at the first URL. I just tested my camera/card and achieved ~20. Once the buffer filled, my fps slowed to just under 1 fps, so this is the maximum steady state rate for short exposures during the eclipse. If we are clever, we can strategically interlace long and short exposures, so that the short exposures are writing to the memory card and clearing the buffer during several second-long outer corona exposures. Ramping from short to long seems to be a sub-optimal optimal strategy.

 

There is another drive mode that I believe we should be interested in called "silent single" or "silent continuous" mode. The mirror moves up more slowly and the mechanical curtain shutter opens more slowly. Light integration starts when an electronic signal clears the sensor's CCD buffers. The exposure ends with the mechanical curtain shutter closing as usual. The maximum silent continuous shooting speed is ~3 fps, but I think we should be interested in using this mode for longer (outer corona) exposures.

 

Has anyone found a way to force (or trick) SEM to shoot in one of the silent modes? I have tried setting the silent mode manually with camera buttons, but SEM overrides. It is such an obvious feature that I'm surprised Xavier hasn't implemented it.  Jerry, do you have any special influence for last minute requests? Xavier bus be issuing  drive mode command (single or continuous) before every exposure. I'd guess all he would have to do is change the argument of the call.

 

I confirm that the TAKEBST command is buggy as others report. For me, it shoots one more exposure than specified.  I get about 4fps using TAKEBST with short exposures, about what is expected for Canon continuous mode shooting.

 

I'm getting about 1 fps with RAMPUP/RAMPDN/RAMPSUD. 

 

I am puzzled about the thinking behind using CHGCSSL to set the burst speed. Are people intentionally trying to slow down the maximum burst speed during Bailey's beads/Diamond Ring/Chromosphere/Prominences?

 

Does anyone know whether the mirror locks up during TAKEBST mode? 

 

What are people's experiences/advice using Mirror Lock Up? I appreciate that all our set-ups are different (I will be using and Orion Sirius EQ-G spec'd for 30 lbs, loaded with 22.3 lbs (ES 127 mm (18 lbs), 0.7x flattener (1.4 lbs),  finder (1.2 lbs), Canon 6D(1.7 lbs), but I'd appreciate rules or thumb or guidance. My equipment is recently purchased, and I may not have a chance to test long exposures for vibrations while aiming at Jupiter or a star. If people are using Mirror Lock Up, how slow is slow enough to show vibrations (1/30 s?) and how long after lockup up is long enough for vibrations to damp?

 

Is anyone making reflective mylar sunshields for their camera?  Could slide onto the barrel of the focuser/flattener. Sounds sensible if there is no wind.

 

What is the best time to touch up the final focus, C2 -10:00?  C2 -5:00? I don't want to miss the shadow coming in. It was awe-inspiring in 1979, but I forget when it first appears. 

 

I'm on the fence whether to program SEM for a few minutes of LV to focus or to break out of SEM around use LV in EOS View.  Is SEM smart enough to resume execution of the script at the write point?  There is no way to test directly without messing with my computer's clock which I am loathe to do. Suggestions? 

 

How close to totality is close enough for dark and bias exposures? I'm trying to shoot a Druckmüller exposure set.



#46 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 11 August 2017 - 05:11 AM

I'm late to programming my Canon 6D,

 

Well, you could have waited another couply of weeks...  smile.gif 

 

 Ramping from short to long seems to be a sub-optimal optimal strategy.

 

You'll be using short exposures for C2 and then long at MID, so for the first half of totality, you will be going short to long.

 

There is another drive mode that I believe we should be interested in called "silent single" or "silent continuous" mode.

 

Depends on the individual camera model.

 

The mirror moves up more slowly and the mechanical curtain shutter opens more slowly. Light integration starts when an electronic signal clears the sensor's CCD buffers. The exposure ends with the mechanical curtain shutter closing as usual. The maximum silent continuous shooting speed is ~3 fps, but I think we should be interested in using this mode for longer (outer corona) exposures.

 

Just use MLU.  Where did you hear that the shutter opened more slowly?

 

Light integration starts when an electronic signal clears the sensor's CCD buffers.

 

DSLRs use CMOS sensors these days. Certainly your 6D has a CMOS and not a CCD sensor.

 

Jerry, do you have any special influence for last minute requests? Xavier bus be issuing  drive mode command (single or continuous) before every exposure. I'd guess all he would have to do is change the argument of the call.

 

Ha.  I'm not inclined to try to talk Xavier into introducing a change to anything at this point in time.  Maybe a month or two ago.

 

I confirm that the TAKEBST command is buggy as others report. For me, it shoots one more exposure than specified.  I get about 4fps using TAKEBST with short exposures, about what is expected for Canon continuous mode shooting.

 

That's cause Xavier sends a "shutter press" of a particular length, and it's just like manually holding down the shutter button for a little too long on some fast cameras.

 

I am puzzled about the thinking behind using CHGCSSL to set the burst speed. Are people intentionally trying to slow down the maximum burst speed during Bailey's beads/Diamond Ring/Chromosphere/Prominences

 

Yes, because with some cameras the buffer will fill up, and if you want to do 4 bursts for DR, BB, Chromosphere and Prominences, you might fill it up.  You're limited to a setting of 3 or 100 in SEM. That can mean different things with different cameras, usually whatever you have the camera set to low or high framing rate in the camera.

 

Does anyone know whether the mirror locks up during TAKEBST mode? 

 

Only if you have a camera where the mirror stays up permanently in MLU.. I'm not sure any of the Canons do, but I think some Nikons do. Just use LVPSTART and LVPSTOP to keep the mirror up for a burst.

 

What are people's experiences/advice using Mirror Lock Up? I appreciate that all our set-ups are different (I will be using and Orion Sirius EQ-G spec'd for 30 lbs, loaded with 22.3 lbs (ES 127 mm (18 lbs), 0.7x flattener (1.4 lbs),  finder (1.2 lbs), Canon 6D(1.7 lbs), but I'd appreciate rules or thumb or guidance. My equipment is recently purchased, and I may not have a chance to test long exposures for vibrations while aiming at Jupiter or a star. If people are using Mirror Lock Up, how slow is slow enough to show vibrations (1/30 s?) and how long after lockup up is long enough for vibrations to damp?

 

I get problems at 1/125th and slower. How long the vibs take to die down is going to depend on your particular setup, so you have to test it.

 

Is anyone making reflective mylar sunshields for their camera?  Could slide onto the barrel of the focuser/flattener. Sounds sensible if there is no wind.

 

There can easily be wind during an eclipse as the temp drops.

 

What is the best time to touch up the final focus, C2 -10:00?  C2 -5:00? I don't want to miss the shadow coming in. It was awe-inspiring in 1979, but I forget when it first appears.

 

I'm focusing at C2-5min. I think the shadow comes just before totality. Whether you can see it earlier depends on what the local geography is like, and if you have mountains in the distance that it will pass over, and how clear it is if you can see that far, like with the fires right now out west... you might be lucky to see the Sun, and you might even be able to see it without a filter... which would be really bad. 

 

I'm on the fence whether to program SEM for a few minutes of LV to focus or to break out of SEM around use LV in EOS View.  Is SEM smart enough to resume execution of the script at the write point?  There is no way to test directly without messing with my computer's clock which I am loathe to do. Suggestions? 

 

You can use the Simulated Time function to test to your hearts desire.

 

How close to totality is close enough for dark and bias exposures? I'm trying to shoot a Druckmüller exposure set.

 

I'm going to try to do it pretty close, since the camera is running continuosly pretty much from C2 to C3, it's going to heat up, and you want to match that temp as closely as possible.

 

Jerry


Edited by Jerry Lodriguss, 11 August 2017 - 05:16 AM.


#47 banjo1000

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Posted 11 August 2017 - 11:58 PM

Jerry,

 

For an explanation of silent shooting, see 

 

https://photo.stacke...silent-shooting

 

Canon tech support confirms, and I have verified independently.  Silent mode is real, and it would be a killer feature for SEM. Even in the last minute!

 

 

LVPSTART documentation says Nikon only.  Have you gotten it to work in your Canon6D?  It seems on my Canon 6D that LVPSTART locks the mirror up, but as soon as I hit a TAKEPIC or TAKEBST, the mirror lockup is canceled so I get extra vibration.  Do you see something different?

 

I have not found a way to lock the mirror up before TAKEBST on a Canon, have you? It seems to be a design shortcoming, at least for Canons.  Better still would be a "Take Silent Burst" command. Alas, support for Nikons is more complete than for Canons.

 

-Joe

 

 

 

There is another drive mode that I believe we should be interested in called "silent single" or "silent continuous" mode.

 

Depends on the individual camera model.

 

The mirror moves up more slowly and the mechanical curtain shutter opens more slowly. Light integration starts when an electronic signal clears the sensor's CCD buffers. The exposure ends with the mechanical curtain shutter closing as usual. The maximum silent continuous shooting speed is ~3 fps, but I think we should be interested in using this mode for longer (outer corona) exposures.

 

Just use MLU.  Where did you hear that the shutter opened more slowly?

 

Light integration starts when an electronic signal clears the sensor's CCD buffers.

 

DSLRs use CMOS sensors these days. Certainly your 6D has a CMOS and not a CCD sensor.

 

Jerry, do you have any special influence for last minute requests? Xavier bus be issuing  drive mode command (single or continuous) before every exposure. I'd guess all he would have to do is change the argument of the call.

 

Ha.  I'm not inclined to try to talk Xavier into introducing a change to anything at this point in time.  Maybe a month or two ago.

 

 



#48 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 02:52 AM

 

Jerry,

 

For an explanation of silent shooting, see 

 

https://photo.stacke...silent-shooting

 

Thanks Joe, I read that thread and I don't see anywhere that it says the shutter curtain is slowed down.  Perhaps I missed it.  Perhaps you misinterpreted it.

 

Canon tech support confirms, and I have verified independently.  Silent mode is real, and it would be a killer feature for SEM. Even in the last minute!

 

I didn't say it wasn't real. I said I would not ask Xavier to implement it a week before the eclipse. This is something you should have thought of months ago. 

 

LVPSTART documentation says Nikon only.  Have you gotten it to work in your Canon6D?  It seems on my Canon 6D that LVPSTART locks the mirror up, but as soon as I hit a TAKEPIC or TAKEBST, the mirror lockup is canceled so I get extra vibration.  Do you see something different?

 

I have it working with a 7D Mark II. Works great. I'm using it for Diamond Ring bursts at 1/60th second.

 

I have not found a way to lock the mirror up before TAKEBST on a Canon, have you?

 

Yes, with LVPSTART.

 

It seems to be a design shortcoming, at least for Canons.  Better still would be a "Take Silent Burst" command. Alas, support for Nikons is more complete than for Canons.

 

Well, I don't know of hardly any, if any, Nikons or Canons that keep the mirror locked up between frames on a simple MLU command.  Maybe the D810? Maybe other ones you know about that I don't...  

 

In any event, I don't think that Solar Eclipse Maestro support is any more complete for Nikons than Canons. Xavier has to work within the limitations of the hardware and the SDK. There are just some things you can do in the SDK for Nikon that you can't for Canon, and vice versa.  And there are some hardware features that vary from camera model to camera model within a brand.  Considering what a mess this is, I think Xavier did an exceptional job.

 

I'm not sure it is fair to come to this so late and then start complaining. 

 

Jerry

 



#49 cdavid

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 10:40 AM

Hi Guys, quick question-

 

I am a little stumped by the exposure calculator recommendations in SEM.  The script it generated shoots the "Diamond Rings" as second contact is approaching and gives an exposure that is longer than the subsequent (in the script) Baily's beads.  Aren't the diamond rings brighter than Baily's beads?  What am I missing here?

 

I am aware of the two definitions but in the script generated by SEM- the Diamond rings come first, then Bailys beads followed by totality and reversed at the end of totality.

 

Attached File  Screen Shot 2017-08-12 at 11.25.05 AM.png   61.82KB   0 downloadsAttached File  Screen Shot 2017-08-12 at 11.25.47 AM.png   65.67KB   0 downloads

 

Thanks for any insights

Carlos



#50 Jerry Lodriguss

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 02:42 PM

Hi Guys, quick question-

 

I am a little stumped by the exposure calculator recommendations in SEM.  The script it generated shoots the "Diamond Rings" as second contact is approaching and gives an exposure that is longer than the subsequent (in the script) Baily's beads.  Aren't the diamond rings brighter than Baily's beads?  What am I missing here?

 

I am aware of the two definitions but in the script generated by SEM- the Diamond rings come first, then Bailys beads followed by totality and reversed at the end of totality.

Yes, the DR is brighter than the BBs, and you need longer exposures.

 

You need the long exposure for the outer corona which makes up the "ring" in the diamond ring.

 

If you expose correctly for the BBs, you don't get the ring.

 

Jerry




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