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A 2.5 hour session with 6 SE & ASI290MM

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#26 roelb

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 06:29 PM

NGC 4656 + 4657

 

5 x 8 s = 40 s

NGC 4656_Stack_5frames_40s.jpg

 

18 x 10 s = 180 s

NGC 4656_Stack_18frames_180s.jpg


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#27 roelb

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 06:31 PM

NGC 6946

 

5 x 15 s = 75 s

NGC 6946_Stack_5frames_75s.jpg

 

20 x 15 s = 300 s

NGC 6946_Stack_20frames_300s.jpg


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#28 A. Viegas

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 07:40 PM

All really nice.
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#29 Astrojedi

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 01:50 AM

Roel,

 

Really impressive captures. The detail and SNR on some of the galaxies is excellent for just 100s and just a 6" Alt Az scope!

 

One would have needed more complex (and more expensive) setup for captures like these just 3-4 years ago. I know that 5 years ago I was using a 8300 sensor based CCD and needed at least 2-3 minute sub exposures to get similar images.

 

Sometimes we don't realize how much more accessible this hobby has become so quickly.

 

Hiten


Edited by Astrojedi, 28 July 2017 - 01:50 AM.

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#30 alphatripleplus

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 06:56 AM

Exceptional job, Roel.


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#31 Tyson M

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 09:39 AM

Awesome shots!
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#32 ACFrost

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 07:49 PM

Well done, you made good use of your time for sure! 


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#33 Ruff

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 06:59 AM

Hi Roelb,

 

Some great images.

 

Please excuse my ignorance ( totally new to Astrophotography ) but when you say, as an example, NGC 6946     5 x 15s = 75s

I take it this means you took five exposures with the ASASI290MM, you then used a program

that combined / stacked  these files together giving you the final image?

 

If I am wrong, and probably I am, can you please explain it for me.

 

Many thanks,

 

R.

 

( I am thinking about getting the ZWO ASI120MC-S USB3.0 Colour, as soon as I can, like you I have a 6SE )



#34 roelb

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 11:40 AM

Hi Ruff,

 

Thanks for your nice comment.

Yes 5 exposures with each a exposure time = 15 s.

This is done using SharpCap (their is a free version with is very capable).

The program does "stacking images on the fly" so you can see the image on the screen improving when time goes on.

A colour camera is less sensitive then mono due to the bayer pattern.

As such longer exposure time are necessary. eg. 30 s instead of 15 s.

Tracking errors will then show up sooner.



#35 Ruff

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 10:29 PM

Thank you for explaining that for me, stacking images on the fly sounds great.I will get Sharpcap.


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#36 Jujubean

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 10:20 AM

Wow, nice images!

 

I'm starting out basic astrophotography with an 8SE, dslr, and wedge (which I just ordered so it has not arrived yet). How were you able to get these results in such little time? What light pollution zone were you in? Using 3 minute exposures with the wedge do you think I could get similar results from bortle 5?

 

Thanks.



#37 Rickster

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 11:18 AM

Juju,

Your DSLR wont be as fast as Roel's 290, but it will give you nice images.  The 290 is mono, so it more more sensitive than a DSLR.  Also, LP noise isnt as noticeable in mono as it is in color.  I recommend that you use a standard f6,3 focal reducer/corrector with your DSLR.  That will speed things up considerably, give you a wider FOV and flatten the field (better image).  You will probably find that 30 sec sub-exposures are near optimum with a DSLR.  Then stack as many subs as you need to get the quality that you want.  3 to 10 minutes of total (stacked) exposure time should it.  Which software will you be using to stack?



#38 descott12

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 10:34 AM

M 109

 

5 x 8 s = 40 s

attachicon.gifM 109_Stack_5frames_40s.jpg

 

13 x 8 s = 104 s

attachicon.gifM 109_Stack_13frames_104s.jpg

Your M109 shots are awesome! That is now at the top of my list for next clear night (assuming it is still visible...)



#39 Jujubean

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 01:07 PM

Juju,

Your DSLR wont be as fast as Roel's 290, but it will give you nice images.  The 290 is mono, so it more more sensitive than a DSLR.  Also, LP noise isnt as noticeable in mono as it is in color.  I recommend that you use a standard f6,3 focal reducer/corrector with your DSLR.  That will speed things up considerably, give you a wider FOV and flatten the field (better image).  You will probably find that 30 sec sub-exposures are near optimum with a DSLR.  Then stack as many subs as you need to get the quality that you want.  3 to 10 minutes of total (stacked) exposure time should it.  Which software will you be using to stack?

I don't have too much experience with it yet, but I'll be using Deep Sky Stacker.

 

Also will having the EQ wedge help since you said that 30 sec subs are what I should be going for? (Because I can get 30 second subs without it)




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