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Astro-Physics 10" Mak-Cass

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#426 CHASLX200

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 05:51 PM

Yeah Chas, but the included AP rings are not hinged and don't really seem to be too cumbersome with John's Delrin handle.

 

 

 

 

In three years we could all be dead!?! Or not, but hey ya' gotta risk it if you want the biscuit... woulda, coulda, shoulda. life is a journey, enjoy the ride!

Well then i would go for some Parallax rings. The C7 was never fixed well after 3 years. Some owners are on the third trans and or TC and still no fix. That was the only reason i bought a used 2013 C6 with the A6 Auto trans as i would not touch a C7 with a A8 auto trans since i mod my cars the warranty would be gone.  I am at over 640hp now and fine with what i got for a few years.

 

It is just so easy to lift a big OTA like that high up and have something slip and down to the ground it goes and kiss $22k bye bye. That is near half the price of a used 2016 C7 Vette.


Edited by CHASLX200, 20 July 2019 - 05:56 PM.


#427 Gleason

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 07:05 PM

Well then i would go for some Parallax rings. The C7 was never fixed well after 3 years. Some owners are on the third trans and or TC and still no fix. That was the only reason i bought a used 2013 C6 with the A6 Auto trans as i would not touch a C7 with a A8 auto trans since i mod my cars the warranty would be gone.  I am at over 640hp now and fine with what i got for a few years.

 

It is just so easy to lift a big OTA like that high up and have something slip and down to the ground it goes and kiss $22k bye bye. That is near half the price of a used 2016 C7 Vette.

 


I simply place the OTA into the half rings already fixed to the dovetail and saddle. Then attach the top half of the rings as a final step.  This fussing with the saddle plate and dovetail as a complete tube assembly is only asking for trouble. 

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Edited by Gleason, 20 July 2019 - 07:08 PM.

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#428 Paul Hyndman

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 08:23 PM

 

I simply place the OTA into the half rings already fixed to the dovetail and saddle. Then attach the top half of the rings as a final step.  This fussing with the saddle plate and dovetail as a complete tube assembly is only asking for trouble. 

 

 

Hey, thanks for sharing John, that sounds like a smart method. I still have a lot of  stuff on my plate, but will give it a try when I get it fired up.

 

PS: John V's drum case dew shield case idea is superb and fits like a glove.

 

PPS: Used Corvettes?!? Other than a '58-'61, no thank you.


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#429 vahe

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 09:17 PM

 

I simply place the OTA into the half rings already fixed to the dovetail and saddle. Then attach the top half of the rings as a final step.  This fussing with the saddle plate and dovetail as a complete tube assembly is only asking for trouble. 

 

 

That is exactly how I mount my 10" TEC Mak, first install the rings, open them up into half rings, pick up the OTA and lower it into the rings and close it, in addition to extra safety one big advantage of doing like this is reduced weight, every little thing adds to the weight and if you are at your limit that makes a huge difference.

.

Vahe


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#430 CHASLX200

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Posted 21 July 2019 - 05:52 AM

I have dropped a OTA 3 times with dovetails thinking it was in the groves and then the OTA flops out to the side. At least i caught it 2 out of 3 times. 



#431 Gary Osoba

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Posted 21 July 2019 - 10:02 AM

Hi All-

 

I've had a fairly long run with quality Maksutov's over the years. From Questars & Quantum's through large Santel's, Intes', and TEC's. They can be absolutely superb, particularly for lunar & planetary observation. Thermal management is necessary for top performance in all large optical trains, and Maksutov's present their own set of challenges. If you ray trace all the varied sources of EM energy which radiate to the OTA and it's optical components, it can be challenging. Pertinent to the current thread... rings, mounting plates, the mount, you as Observer radiating into the end plate, etc., you begin to understand the importance of minimizing thermal flux. Isolation, through insulation is very important. After many years of experimenting and measuring, here is my current setup- configured for a dry climate with 1.5X OTA D dewshield extension sans heating elements. When in humid environments, a shorter dewshield with heating elements is optimal. I'm not an imager, and the old-school non-GOTO Schaefer Mount works well for this configuration. 10" custom TEC optics, variable f/20-22 with 19% CO, Swiss-engineered OTA with many mods I've made over time.

 

I'm excited for all the new AP 10" Mak owners as they explore with this wonderful design!

 

Best,

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

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#432 Gleason

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Posted 21 July 2019 - 12:46 PM

Hi All-

 

I've had a fairly long run with quality Maksutov's over the years. From Questars & Quantum's through large Santel's, Intes', and TEC's. They can be absolutely superb, particularly for lunar & planetary observation. Thermal management is necessary for top performance in all large optical trains, and Maksutov's present their own set of challenges. If you ray trace all the varied sources of EM energy which radiate to the OTA and it's optical components, it can be challenging. Pertinent to the current thread... rings, mounting plates, the mount, you as Observer radiating into the end plate, etc., you begin to understand the importance of minimizing thermal flux. Isolation, through insulation is very important. After many years of experimenting and measuring, here is my current setup- configured for a dry climate with 1.5X OTA D dewshield extension sans heating elements. When in humid environments, a shorter dewshield with heating elements is optimal. I'm not an imager, and the old-school non-GOTO Schaefer Mount works well for this configuration. 10" custom TEC optics, variable f/20-22 with 19% CO, Swiss-engineered OTA with many mods I've made over time.

 

I'm excited for all the new AP 10" Mak owners as they explore with this wonderful design!

 

Best,

 

Gary

Great man cave. Complete with your own Van De Graaff generator!     I'm looking to make some neoprene covers for my OTA and dew shield as insulating blankets.  Not clear if they will be necessary in my climate. But will protect the paint at least.  



#433 salico

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Posted 21 July 2019 - 01:02 PM

I m so glad, that I don't have the seeing for the AP - otherwise I would be super jealousflowerred.gif



#434 Gary Osoba

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Posted 21 July 2019 - 03:48 PM

OTA dimensions without insulation evident in background. Van de Graf capacity is 1.2 Million volts.

 

Gary

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#435 Gleason

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 09:49 PM

Central Star in the Ring!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.....  still attempting to see it. I know it's there!

 

-jg


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#436 junomike

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Posted 29 July 2019 - 05:06 PM

Central Star in the Ring!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.....  still attempting to see it. I know it's there!

 

-jg

My understanding is you need dark skies and a large OTA (18" - 24")



#437 payner

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Posted 29 July 2019 - 06:21 PM

I saw it two different time in my (then) C-14. What one needs is about 10" or more, high magnification and very steady seeing. I was catching it wink in and out Friday in my Mewlon. I had good seeing (4/5), but needed 5/5 for it to 'hold.'



#438 WadeH237

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Posted 29 July 2019 - 06:44 PM

My understanding is you need dark skies and a large OTA (18" - 24")

I have seen it in my C14 on a couple of occasions, and I have missed it in much larger instruments (mid 20" range).

 

Once you have an instrument where you can see mag 15 or so stars, then you need the seeing to cooperate.  The central star is about mag 14.8, but with the surrounding nebulosity, it's in a very low contrast area.  I've only ever seen it with averted vision, and most of the time, it's not continuously visible and pops in and out.



#439 Richard Whalen

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Posted 29 July 2019 - 07:04 PM

I have seen it in my 8", what is needed is high quality optics, great seeing, great transparency and 450x to 725x magnification in smaller scopes. Has been seen in a 6" refractor in the Alps I've read. I observed it from CAV which is not much above sea level. When it pops it is more intense then you would suspect. No maybe about it. Either there or not. That was my experience at least. Also was near the zenith. In Vic Manards 22" it was in your face bright.


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#440 Gleason

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Posted 29 July 2019 - 08:00 PM

Well, no luck on the central star again last night.  Observing at over 600X.  The ring was "Yuge"!  But I did have the best seat in the house. Seeing was quite good at the zenith, but observing Jupiter and Saturn was awful down in the soup.  

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Edited by Gleason, 29 July 2019 - 08:06 PM.

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#441 Gleason

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Posted 16 August 2019 - 11:29 AM

It's vewy, vewy, quiet.  Must be hunting wabbits? 



#442 Gleason

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 10:33 AM

Hello MCT owners, have any of you tried the 21mm Ethos eyepiece with your scope?  I am interested in one of these to replace my old 20mm T2 Nagler.  They show up used quite often. Not sure why. 

 

Cheers, 

 

jg



#443 3 i Guy

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 12:09 PM

Hello MCT owners, have any of you tried the 21mm Ethos eyepiece with your scope?  I am interested in one of these to replace my old 20mm T2 Nagler.  They show up used quite often. Not sure why. 

 

Cheers, 

 

jg

 

I don’t own a MCT but It lives in my C8 Edge, I’m a fan of flatness. I think they show up used so much because they’re as big as a toaster oven and people underestimate the weight. They get tired of re-balancing their scopes.....just a thought.



#444 payner

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 12:18 PM

Yeah, but if one wants to talk heavyweight, try an ES 12-mm 92-deg eyepiece. Makes the 21-mm Ethos seem trim, especially when the focal length is considered. That is why I did not have that eyepiece long.



#445 Swimmeruk

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 03:37 PM

I am wondering what 2" eyepiece is the lowest mag that owners of this scope have in their case.  I have an F/5 Dob and stopped at 30mm...  Would you pick a 70 degree 40 mm or a 50 mm Plossel?  With this focal length would you go cheaper or stick with panoptics?

-Chad



#446 Gleason

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 06:32 PM

I am wondering what 2" eyepiece is the lowest mag that owners of this scope have in their case.  I have an F/5 Dob and stopped at 30mm...  Would you pick a 70 degree 40 mm or a 50 mm Plossel?  With this focal length would you go cheaper or stick with panoptics?

-Chad

I have the ES 40mm 70 degree, and the Gary Russell 65mm super-plossl XL.  The 65mm is used with a wide band OIII filter.  



#447 luxo II

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Posted 24 August 2019 - 09:06 AM

With these scopes you do not need Panoptics - many alternatives are surprisingly good.

I’ve had quite a few low power eyepieces with my maks including:

My current low-power favourite is the Prostar/Agena 38mm SWA 70 degree AFoV - a cheapie but very good, rebadged and sold under many other names. Not much eyerelief but it does have the full field available in a 2” barrel, its sharp to the edge in my scopes ie no hint of lateral colour or monochrome aberrations. Flat field and no sign of jelly-bean, and it’s comfortable to use. The same is not true for shorter SWA eyepieces, some of which are shockingly bad.

Vixen LV 50mm - I am very fond of this one. Huge, long eye relief, gives the “diamonds on black velvet” - stars hanging in front of your nose. Hard to find secondhand.

Vixen LVW42 - similar to a Panoptic but IMHO inferior to the SWA 38 above.

TMB Paragon 40mm and 30mm - had both - liked the 40mm but not the 30mm so much.

Thee are others from ES worth considering.

Another which I’m considering mating with my APM/Wirth/Intes 10” mak is a Masuyama 32mm.

Edited by luxo II, 24 August 2019 - 09:10 AM.


#448 Paul G

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Posted 24 August 2019 - 09:56 AM

Hello MCT owners, have any of you tried the 21mm Ethos eyepiece with your scope?  I am interested in one of these to replace my old 20mm T2 Nagler.  They show up used quite often. Not sure why. 

 

Cheers, 

 

jg

Yes, great combo.

 

Edit: Less expensive eyepieces will work in this scope, but that to me is like putting cheap tires on a Ferrari.


Edited by Paul G, 24 August 2019 - 09:58 AM.

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#449 Gleason

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Posted 30 August 2019 - 01:46 PM

Yes, great combo.

 

Edit: Less expensive eyepieces will work in this scope, but that to me is like putting cheap tires on a Ferrari.

 I have received a 21 Ethos and tried it on the MCT.  It is spectacular.  I can see the full 100D field as the ER is slightly better than my old T2 20mm.  Removing the eyecup is even better.  175X is high contrast and tack sharp.  M42 is loaded with contrast and quite breathtaking.   What an instrument! 


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#450 Richard Whalen

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Posted 30 August 2019 - 02:38 PM

In my 8" f15.5 the 31 nagler is my widest fov eyepiece without noticable light drop off towards the edge. 




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