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ZWO ASI294 MC pro

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#76 rockstarbill

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:31 PM

Well if there is something to say about the camera, it clearly does not have the specific microlens artifact issue that other cameras do. At 5 minute long subs of bright stars in M45, if it were to show a similar pattern it would have shown up in these images. 

 

Are these gain 120 images? If not, it would be wonderful to see some gain 120 images! Sadly we are still in the middle of clouds and rain. 



#77 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:33 PM

Those are indeed 120 gain images, the horsehead file is 350 gain. Any tips to help with that noise? I have no differential flexure, my tracking is spot on, and it seems like nothing I do when I stack the data gets rid of it, but I don't have that noise at 350 gain for one reason or another



#78 dvalid

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:43 PM

Steven, your horsehead is amazing. Very clean and sharp. 

 

IC-434v7-14Jan2018.jpg

 

https://www.dropbox....8 copy.tif?dl=0

 

Regarding the walking noise - I can not see it in this image, but still, better to dither. 


Edited by dvalid, 02 February 2018 - 09:45 PM.

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#79 rockstarbill

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:54 PM

This is a great OSC camera.
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#80 dvalid

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:57 PM

This is a great OSC camera.

Yep, that's the bottom line :)


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#81 rockstarbill

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 10:08 PM

Now if I could just get the clouds and rain to go away.... Would love to see what my FSQ106 can do with this camera.


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#82 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 11:02 PM

Yeah, I think for me it works best if I use 350 gain, I think the fpn is fpn from the sensor noise and at 120g because of my slow scope I am not overcoming the signal from that noise. the horsehead is 21 hrs of data, my deepest image to date smile.gif Thanks! here is my version of it, processed with startools, are you using pixinsight?

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  • IC 434 reprocessed 14Jan2018 watermarked compressed.jpg

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#83 dvalid

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 11:30 PM

Yes, processed in Pixinsight.



#84 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 11:40 PM

Ah ok, I have never used pixinsight, its too expensive for me :/ I hear it works great though



#85 dvalid

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 11:44 PM

Ah ok, I have never used pixinsight, its too expensive for me :/ I hear it works great though

You should try APP https://www.astropixelprocessor.com/ I've heard lot of good thing about it. 



#86 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 12:05 AM

I might give it a go, though I've gotten used to startools and I think I've finally have it figured out for my new camera



#87 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 12:39 PM

If anyone is interested, here is an image of NGC 281, The Pac-Man Nebula, taken with just plain OSC. http://astrob.in/332063/0/



#88 CCD-Freak

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 02:15 PM

The more I see of this camera makes me want to get one.   Keep the images coming.

 

 

John

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#89 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 02:21 PM

Here is a reprocessed image of IC 410, the Tadpole Nebula without Ha data. Clear Skies!

Attached Thumbnails

  • IC 410 no Ha 25Jan2018 watermarked compressed.jpg

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#90 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 02:39 PM

I also uploaded the stacked files of IC 410 to my google drive here: https://drive.google...CqTLASLnEckYb5i there is a file that has Ha, and another file with no Ha data. feel free to process them and play around with them!



#91 42 degrees north

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 11:10 PM

I got my 294 MC Pro this week and am struggling having spent all of my AP life usIng a DSLR. What is the best way to take darks and flats in terms of controlling the camera? Is there a good resource somewhere on the web for this? This is going to be a big learning curve I think!

Thanks

Matt

#92 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 01:48 AM

Ok so the best way to get a darks library going, is to start off taking 120s exposures at 120g and at 350g so you have a low and high gain darks library. you can also take some darks at 120g at 300 and 600s if you want. If you take the cap that came with the camera and leave it on, I then go and open up sharpcap, set my cooling to -15C and start a capture of 100 darks (less for the longer exposure darks.) make sure you are capturing in RAW16, and don't mess with the color balance settings. Make sure you are capturing in FITS files as well. To take flats, finish an imaging run, then before you mess with anything on your scope (don't adjust focus or move any gear around that would alter the optical train) take a t-shirt or white microfiber cloth and place it over the end of your scope. secure it in such a manner that there is no bunching up of the material, and no creases. Point the scope at a light source that is evenly illuminated ( do not use a flashlight or a lightbulb or the sun or the moon) use an LED panel, a laptop or tablet screen, etc. then capture 100 images getting your white balance of your histogram to peak around 50%. Use the same gain settings that you imaged at and that your darks are at, and just adjust your exposure time accordingly. For my setup, I built a arduino controlled remote/robotic dust cover that has an EL (electroluminescent) panel that I built and can remotely or robotically operate, so that I can automate or remotely take flats, darks, bias, and dark flats. bias is just like taking darks, except you want to turn your exposure time to as fast as your camera will allow. Dark flats are just like taking flats, just remove the source of illumination. I hope this was helpful, and if you have any questions just let me know. Clear Skies!


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#93 DSO_Viewer

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 12:39 PM

Ok so the best way to get a darks library going, is to start off taking 120s exposures at 120g and at 350g so you have a low and high gain darks library. you can also take some darks at 120g at 300 and 600s if you want. If you take the cap that came with the camera and leave it on, I then go and open up sharpcap, set my cooling to -15C and start a capture of 100 darks (less for the longer exposure darks.) make sure you are capturing in RAW16, and don't mess with the color balance settings. Make sure you are capturing in FITS files as well. To take flats, finish an imaging run, then before you mess with anything on your scope (don't adjust focus or move any gear around that would alter the optical train) take a t-shirt or white microfiber cloth and place it over the end of your scope. secure it in such a manner that there is no bunching up of the material, and no creases. Point the scope at a light source that is evenly illuminated ( do not use a flashlight or a lightbulb or the sun or the moon) use an LED panel, a laptop or tablet screen, etc. then capture 100 images getting your white balance of your histogram to peak around 50%. Use the same gain settings that you imaged at and that your darks are at, and just adjust your exposure time accordingly. For my setup, I built a arduino controlled remote/robotic dust cover that has an EL (electroluminescent) panel that I built and can remotely or robotically operate, so that I can automate or remotely take flats, darks, bias, and dark flats. bias is just like taking darks, except you want to turn your exposure time to as fast as your camera will allow. Dark flats are just like taking flats, just remove the source of illumination. I hope this was helpful, and if you have any questions just let me know. Clear Skies!

Do your flats have to be the same temperature as your darks? Thank you for the previous information.

 

Steve



#94 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 11:45 AM

Generally, you want all of your calibration files to be at the same, or as close to the same temperature as you can reasonably achieve, clear skies!



#95 DSO_Viewer

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 11:47 AM

Generally, you want all of your calibration files to be at the same, or as close to the same temperature as you can reasonably achieve, clear skies!

Okay, that helps thank you, Steven!

 

Steve



#96 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 11:56 AM

You're very welcome! If you need help with anything just ask, I'm always happy to help out fellow astronomers!


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#97 42 degrees north

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 01:37 PM

So another related question........as I have begun to make a library of darks for my 294MC Pro, I note that when the files are viewed in the FITS viewer in TSX, they look just like the dark frames posted on Page 3 of this thread.....with a bright spot about 2/3 up the right edge of the frame.  When I view them in Sharpcap, they are completely dark...nothing.  When I view them in the ESA/NASA FITS viewer, they have pin points like I used to see in my DSLR darks.  What gives?  Why are the three programs giving me different views of the same file?  Which one is right?  So confusing....or maybe the operator is doing something fundamentally wrong (most likely answer).

 

Thanks

 

Matt



#98 CCD-Freak

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 02:43 PM

It is probably just the auto visualization settings of the viewing software.  You may just need to manually adjust the set points which does not affect the actual image just the way you see it.

 

 

 

John

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#99 Steven Hanaway

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Posted 14 February 2018 - 05:13 AM

Happy Valentine's day everyone! Here is an image I took of the Heart Nebula, IC 1805 with my ASI294 using an old Vivitar 200mm M42 prime lens I picked up from ebay for $25. If anyone would like to see a high quality version of this image, please visit my astrobin page for this object at: http://astrob.in/333534/0/ This image consists of 35x 120sec 120gain L-2 exposures, 30x 120sec 120gain Ha 12nm Exposures, and 24x 300sec 120gain Ha 12nm exposures, stacked in deep sky stacker and processed in StarTools.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Heart Nebula Widefieldv2 Composite watermarked low res.jpg

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#100 jor223

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Posted 01 May 2018 - 01:09 PM

I've taken some narrowband data with the 294, I have an Astronomik 12nm hydrogen alpha filter, and I was easily able to pick up data on M42 and the rosette. Here is the first image I ever took with this camera, it is 150x60s exposures at 350 gain through a Astronomik CLS-CCD Filter (my L-2 Filter had not arrived yet) and 168x60s exposures through my Astronomik 12nm Ha filter at 350 gain. I had not taken good calibration frames for this image, so there are some issues there, but let me know what you think of it! I'm going to be trying to do some imaging at 120s and 120 gain to see if I can get better noise reduction using more exposures, and to see if I can achieve a better result. I also happen to have a Lumicon Galaxy filter, but I've only used it once, but if anyone would like to see what my narrowband data looks like, or if anyone would like to see me image a specific target please let me know as I am always learning. Clear Skies!

Beautiful pic!! I am wondering if this camera, because its sensor size is 24x16mm, has actually a crop factor of x2, therefore if I use a telescope with a focal length of 480mm, it becomes 960mm in terms of the angle of view. Is this correct?




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