How did you get the clutch apart while protecting the wires?
I actually removed the OTA and one fork arm.
That allowed me to lift the plastic cover over the top of the base enough to loop the wires over the top of the bolt as i rotated it, thus avoiding it wrapping/cutting as i undid the bolt.
I knew from other ( damaged ) mounts how it went together, and that where the wires came out at the top, the edges of the hole were like a razor blade, so didnt risk forcing it and cutting/shorting any wires.
Second question. Your article recommends replacing the central shaft bolt with a threaded rod. It appears to me the bolt is hollow and the wires go through it. How would that work?
As you learnt, the current design is a total PITA to get apart, as you need to release the bolt enough to free up the dog clutch joint between the alloy casting and the lower clutch plate, before you can unscrew the lower clutch plate.
My thought was to use a hollow threaded rod identical to the the current bolt, but with a threaded top ( vs a hex head ) and the slot cut all the way to the top.
Now you loctite the threaded joint at the clutch end and place a nut on top to do the tensioning.
Turning the nut still tensions the clutch as per usual, but if you ever need to disassemble it, you just release the nut.
By leaving enough free wire inside the base side to pull it fully back out, you can always remove it as per now to get at anything you want, and the slot allows the bolt to pull down without snagging on the wires at the top.
Did you make a spanner wrench to remove that big round nut
Nope, i borrowed a wrench from the vendors as they already had a unit.
It was a short length of thick walled pipe with pins set into the end face, so it could be used like a TBar.
Andrew Johansen Melbourne Australia