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M1 ruined by reflection in EdgeHD 9.25

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#1 jtrezzo

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 07:10 PM

Here is an integration of just about 2.8 hours of M1, which is pretty much ruined by the blue reflection. I just got it so not sure if this is common thing to happen on an SCT/Edge or not, but this is obviously a reflection of the star Zeta Tauri near M1. I am using the CCDT67 reducer so not sure if that might contribute in any way. Is there anything I can do that can avoid this? 

 

integration_DBE.jpg

 

 



#2 coopman

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 07:21 PM

Sorry to see this. I have no idea how to prevent it. Maybe others will comment soon. It's a great image other than the reflection.

#3 entilza

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 07:43 PM

Umm that shot is amazing, I'd hardly say ruined! :)  Love how sharp these stars, great focus!

 

Honestly in situations like this I would do some careful clonestamping to repair that area, take your time and it won't even be visible.


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#4 jtrezzo

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 07:45 PM

Sorry to see this. I have no idea how to prevent it. Maybe others will comment soon. It's a great image other than the reflection.

 

Sorry to see this. I have no idea how to prevent it. Maybe others will comment soon. It's a great image other than the reflection.

 

Umm that shot is amazing, I'd hardly say ruined! smile.gif  Love how sharp these stars, great focus!

 

Honestly in situations like this I would do some careful clonestamping to repair that area, take your time and it won't even be visible.

 

 

Thanks, I was surprised how nice it looked myself for no filter and red zone. I'll probably just end up cropping it down eventually, but it is pretty disappointing to see and something to worry about for future objects. Some major clone stamping sounds like a fun project too! :lol:



#5 Robert York

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 07:48 PM

I've had very similar issues caused by reflections and refractions off the OAG on my EdgeHD. Check for that first.

 

People seem to forget you're shoving a piece of glass down into the light path. If things aren't just right, you'll throw rainbows, flares, and arcs of light on your image. grin.gif


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#6 HarryRik9

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 08:35 PM

Hi, This is so minor that it is not worth worrying about. You can remove it with many editing tools if you dislike it. The photo is fine with it in. Don't be such a perfectionist, because it will get you stressed out over a small thing.


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#7 kbev

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 08:55 PM

As others have already said it is a great shot!  Since you have Pixinsight I would consider using the DBE process to try and tame the reflection, it should be doable.  



#8 Poochpa

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 10:07 AM

Jarrett,

I also image with a 9.25" EdgeHD and CCDT67. Tell me about your full imaging train and the image details, and I'll see if I can help.

Mike


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#9 jtrezzo

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 12:04 PM

Jarrett,

I also image with a 9.25" EdgeHD and CCDT67. Tell me about your full imaging train and the image details, and I'll see if I can help.

Mike

Hi Mike, 

 

My imaging train for this was QHY247C > QHY OAG-S + QHY174M > CCDT67 > Optolong UV/IR Cut. 75mm from sensor to CCDT67 and about 103mm sensor to Edge.

 

Now that I think about it I am recalling that the  bright star was in the OAG FOV so it is quite possible that the OAG was throwing the reflection. I didn't even know that was possible if that is the case. If it is, I will have to take more time to set up and rotate everything to get it out of the OAG FOV. Luckily that is pretty easy with the QHY247C as it has a mounting plate which lets me take the camera body off and completely rotate independently of the rest of the image train but with my ASI1600MM-C I guess I'd be kjt of luck in terms of rotation of the field of view. 



#10 Poochpa

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 03:35 PM

Jarrett,

Yes, it could be a reflection of a star off the edge of the prism on the OAG causing it. If the prism height is adjustable, you might want to move it up slightly. Also check to see if the inside of your OAG body or any adapter in the imaging train is shiny, which could cause a reflection.  How are you connecting the CCDT67 to the scope? I think you had previously told me that you are using a Baader Clicklock SCT adapter to connect the reducer to the scope baffle nut threads. Check that also for possible reflectivity, but I would think that Baader would use flat anodizing or paint inside the Clicklock body. Also try imaging without the Optolong filter, to see if that is the culprit.

Mike


Edited by Poochpa, 20 November 2017 - 03:36 PM.


#11 CrzHrs

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 04:12 PM

Little off topic: how's going the 247? I am really curious about that sensor.. (Noise,banding,amp glow..)



#12 jtrezzo

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 05:16 PM

Jarrett,

Yes, it could be a reflection of a star off the edge of the prism on the OAG causing it. If the prism height is adjustable, you might want to move it up slightly. Also check to see if the inside of your OAG body or any adapter in the imaging train is shiny, which could cause a reflection.  How are you connecting the CCDT67 to the scope? I think you had previously told me that you are using a Baader Clicklock SCT adapter to connect the reducer to the scope baffle nut threads. Check that also for possible reflectivity, but I would think that Baader would use flat anodizing or paint inside the Clicklock body. Also try imaging without the Optolong filter, to see if that is the culprit.

Mike

When you say to move the prism up do you mean towards the guide camera or away from it? I am using the Clicklock, but I don't think it is that as it is flat on the inside. What I do with the CCDT67 is have spacers to get from T2  of the OAG to the M48 of the CCDT67 for the proper EdgeHD spacing, then I just adjust that in the Clicklock to get the right spacing for the Edge. I'm still playing around with that though and am having trouble finding a good way to make it perfect (and repeatable). I can see why you switched to just imaging at f/10. 

 

Little off topic: how's going the 247? I am really curious about that sensor.. (Noise,banding,amp glow..)

It is a really great camera especially for an OSC. I have been finding I get better results with it than a mono setup and LRGB filters with the ZWO ASI1600MM-C (though that could just be me). I would probably just sell that mono setup except that I like having the use of the Ha filter for when the moon is out. The 247 has extremely low noise, a bit of amp glow even though QHY says there should be none (though I wonder if to enable their amp glow reduction it has to be done in Sharpcap, which I know has a box to turn on amp glow reduction). Either way it calibrates out fine with flat darks. Here's four hours on M42 from the other night in red zone light pollution (just the Optolong UV/IR cut filter) with QHY247C and my AT106LE scope: https://www.astrobin.com/322192 You can notice a bit of banding if you look on the dust clouds near Running Man, but I probably could get rid of it with the script in PI. I have a few others on there with the camera as well, but none of them have any banding so not really sure if was just something I did with M42 that caused that.


Edited by jtrezzo, 20 November 2017 - 05:17 PM.


#13 Poochpa

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 05:41 PM

 

Jarrett,

Yes, it could be a reflection of a star off the edge of the prism on the OAG causing it. If the prism height is adjustable, you might want to move it up slightly. Also check to see if the inside of your OAG body or any adapter in the imaging train is shiny, which could cause a reflection.  How are you connecting the CCDT67 to the scope? I think you had previously told me that you are using a Baader Clicklock SCT adapter to connect the reducer to the scope baffle nut threads. Check that also for possible reflectivity, but I would think that Baader would use flat anodizing or paint inside the Clicklock body. Also try imaging without the Optolong filter, to see if that is the culprit.

Mike

When you say to move the prism up do you mean towards the guide camera or away from it? I am using the Clicklock, but I don't think it is that as it is flat on the inside. What I do with the CCDT67 is have spacers to get from T2  of the OAG to the M48 of the CCDT67 for the proper EdgeHD spacing, then I just adjust that in the Clicklock to get the right spacing for the Edge. I'm still playing around with that though and am having trouble finding a good way to make it perfect (and repeatable). I can see why you switched to just imaging at f/10.

Jarrett,

I mean move the prism up towards the guide cam. To make the Edge rear optics to reducer spacing repeatable, I use a parfocal ring with two locking grub screws on the reducer, so that when I slide the reducer into the SCT adapter it's insertion depth will always be the same.

Mike


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#14 jtrezzo

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 07:01 PM

 

 

Jarrett,

Yes, it could be a reflection of a star off the edge of the prism on the OAG causing it. If the prism height is adjustable, you might want to move it up slightly. Also check to see if the inside of your OAG body or any adapter in the imaging train is shiny, which could cause a reflection.  How are you connecting the CCDT67 to the scope? I think you had previously told me that you are using a Baader Clicklock SCT adapter to connect the reducer to the scope baffle nut threads. Check that also for possible reflectivity, but I would think that Baader would use flat anodizing or paint inside the Clicklock body. Also try imaging without the Optolong filter, to see if that is the culprit.

Mike

When you say to move the prism up do you mean towards the guide camera or away from it? I am using the Clicklock, but I don't think it is that as it is flat on the inside. What I do with the CCDT67 is have spacers to get from T2  of the OAG to the M48 of the CCDT67 for the proper EdgeHD spacing, then I just adjust that in the Clicklock to get the right spacing for the Edge. I'm still playing around with that though and am having trouble finding a good way to make it perfect (and repeatable). I can see why you switched to just imaging at f/10.

Jarrett,

I mean move the prism up towards the guide cam. To make the Edge rear optics to reducer spacing repeatable, I use a parfocal ring with two locking grub screws on the reducer, so that when I slide the reducer into the SCT adapter it's insertion depth will always be the same.

Mike

 

Ah great idea, I forgot about those... I'll have to order one up.

 

I think the prism depth very well could be the problem. That night it fell out and went all the way in (as far as the safety catch lets it anyway) so I had to fumble around in the dark with my phone light to get it back to a reasonable depth, and might have left it a little too far out. I will take some time to check and move it inwards as much as possible when I can. 



#15 jtrezzo

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 11:36 PM

Well it turned out pretty good after processing and doing a bunch of clone stamping. If you look closely you can probably tell it's odd in that spot but without knowing I doubt anyone would notice.

http://astrob.in/322572

 

FTEZvbz7NdRd_16536x16536_wmhqkGbg.jpg

 

 


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#16 mahagen1

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 11:53 PM

I like it.


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