Jump to content

  •  

CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. Donation is not required by any means, so please enjoy your stay.

Photo

Sony IMX183 mono test thread - ASI, QHY, etc.

  • Please log in to reply
1123 replies to this topic

#1001 Jon Rista

Jon Rista

    ISS

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 24,303
  • Joined: 10 Jan 2014
  • Loc: Colorado

Posted 18 June 2019 - 04:34 PM

Nice, Steven.  I've found that dark current just isn't an issue with the 183MM Pro.  Neither is amp glow smile.gif

 

I'm curious, though -- specs say gain 120 is "unity."  I know 111 isn't far off, but did you use a different source to get the 111 figure as "unity?"  Other than the ASI specs, I mean...?

I'm pretty sure 111 is unity. My own testing has shown that at gain 111, the conversion ratio is ~1e-/ADU (very slightly more, like 1.01...e-/ADU). Gain 120 would be a bit higher than unity. 


  • StevenBellavia and bobzeq25 like this

#1002 BillMc

BillMc

    Lift Off

  • -----
  • Posts: 10
  • Joined: 09 May 2019

Posted 18 June 2019 - 05:22 PM

Unity Gain is 111

 

I raised the discrepancy in the manual with ZWO in this topic:

 

https://bbs.astronom...opic.php?t=8325

 

Bill


  • StevenBellavia likes this

#1003 StevenBellavia

StevenBellavia

    Viking 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 532
  • Joined: 11 Mar 2014
  • Loc: New York

Posted 21 June 2019 - 10:46 AM

Nice, Steven.  I've found that dark current just isn't an issue with the 183MM Pro.  Neither is amp glow smile.gif

 

I'm curious, though -- specs say gain 120 is "unity."  I know 111 isn't far off, but did you use a different source to get the 111 figure as "unity?"  Other than the ASI specs, I mean...?

I carefully matched the 8 points off their published curve. 

 

I ignored the "Gain 120" with the arrow.

 

Using an exponential least-squares regression, I fitted the 8 points and also filled in all the points in-between, every 10 units of Gain (0.1 db per 1 unit of gain for ZWO).

 

If you use that least squares regression equation, at Gain 111, you get 1.01 e/ADU

 

Since the ASCOM driver refers to unity as 111, I assumed that must be correct. Or at least close enough. 

 

Steve

Attached Thumbnails

  • ZWO_183_ADU_vs_Gain_8_points_exp.JPG

Edited by StevenBellavia, 21 June 2019 - 01:48 PM.

  • Jon Rista and OldManSky like this

#1004 kmachhi

kmachhi

    Lift Off

  • *****
  • Posts: 5
  • Joined: 17 Aug 2010

Posted 24 June 2019 - 06:15 PM

I recently purchased the ASI183MC-Pro.  I imaged IC4605 (in Rho Ophiuchus) for my first trial with the HDR setting (gain=0) using 120s subs and then also with the unity gain setting (gain=111) using 90s subs.  With both gain settings most of the stars are saturated, I get good details on the nebulosity in the image.  I plan to experiment with the HDR setting and 90s and 60s subs.  Any recommendations on settings that will result in achieving decent star colors with this color camera? 

 

Thanks,

Khushrow



#1005 Jon Rista

Jon Rista

    ISS

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 24,303
  • Joined: 10 Jan 2014
  • Loc: Colorado

Posted 24 June 2019 - 06:28 PM

I recently purchased the ASI183MC-Pro.  I imaged IC4605 (in Rho Ophiuchus) for my first trial with the HDR setting (gain=0) using 120s subs and then also with the unity gain setting (gain=111) using 90s subs.  With both gain settings most of the stars are saturated, I get good details on the nebulosity in the image.  I plan to experiment with the HDR setting and 90s and 60s subs.  Any recommendations on settings that will result in achieving decent star colors with this color camera? 

 

Thanks,

Khushrow

What are you considering "saturated"? For "most" of the stars to saturate, you would have to be rather wildly overexposed. Even with heavy LP, unless you are imaging at an extremely wide field with a very fast scope or lens, I would expect "some" but definitely not "most" stars to clip at 120 seconds for Gain 0. For more normal scopes, though, with the tiny pixels, and a 15ke- FWC, it should be pretty hard to saturate stars with this camera unless your image scale was 2-3"/px or more and a fairly fast f-ratio. 

 

Are you looking at a stretched image to determine which stars are saturating? Or are you looking at the unstretched linear image? And, when you say "saturated"...are you actually measuring the stars to see if they have indeed saturated (reached maximum signal)...or are you just assuming that every star that is visible in the linear signal field is "saturated"? If the latter...then my guess is only some of the stars you can see in the unstretched image are actually saturated. You can start to see stars in an unstretched sub LONG before they even get close to saturating. Saturation is only when they actually clip at maximum signal.


Edited by Jon Rista, 24 June 2019 - 06:29 PM.


#1006 james7ca

james7ca

    Cosmos

  • *****
  • Posts: 8,269
  • Joined: 21 May 2011
  • Loc: San Diego, CA

Posted 25 June 2019 - 03:48 AM

In terms of avoiding saturation, I think you'll need more than a one stop change in exposure. Do at least two stops and then think of gathering subs at two more stops below that to cover a complete range. So, if you are using 120s for the main capture then I'd go for 30s and something around 10 to 5 seconds. You don't really need very many subs at those lower exposures since you only need to capture the brightest parts of the image. When you do an HDR combination in a program like PixInsight it will mask out everything except the bright threshold that you set as part of the HDR process. Thus, the short integration times that you use for the lower exposures won't really affect the background signal-to-noise.

 

Gain certainly affects dynamic range, but I even do HDRs on some of my narrow-band captures (at least if I plan on doing something like a bi-color combination). I should also add that you obviously don't want to reduce your exposure time to the point were you could have too few stars to do your registration/alignment during the processing.

 

IMO, one of the greatest failings of many color images (including narrow band) is that they fail to show any color in the stars.


Edited by james7ca, 25 June 2019 - 12:08 PM.

  • bobzeq25 likes this

#1007 Ethanwyh

Ethanwyh

    Explorer 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 80
  • Joined: 16 Apr 2019
  • Loc: Singapore

Posted 20 September 2019 - 03:37 AM

Hi all, would like to get a general consensus on the QHY183M Gain and Offset settings:

 

For 'best' results

 

For LRGB: Gain=?; Offset=?

For Narrowband: Gain=?; Offset=?

 

Do let me know based on your experiences :D

 

P.S Bortle 7 skies; F/7.5 80mm Aperture with Ha=6.5nm, Sii-7nm, Oiii=7nm if that helps

 

 

Cheers!


  • Swordfishy likes this

#1008 Ethanwyh

Ethanwyh

    Explorer 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 80
  • Joined: 16 Apr 2019
  • Loc: Singapore

Posted 20 September 2019 - 03:44 AM

I have been enjoying my QHY183M.  Have an amazing clear night Friday night (they are rare) so I imaged the the Flame/Horsehead nebula in narrowband

 

The first one is in Ha

get.jpg?insecure

 

The second one is combine (HSO)

get.jpg?insecure

Hi Mike, what GAIN and OFFSET settings were you on for each subs? It's pretty impressive!



#1009 terry59

terry59

    Cosmos

  • *****
  • Posts: 9,556
  • Joined: 18 Jul 2011
  • Loc: Colorado, USA

Posted 20 September 2019 - 06:19 AM

Hi all, would like to get a general consensus on the QHY183M Gain and Offset settings:

 

For 'best' results

 

For LRGB: Gain=?; Offset=?

For Narrowband: Gain=?; Offset=?

 

Do let me know based on your experiences laugh.gif

 

P.S Bortle 7 skies; F/7.5 80mm Aperture with Ha=6.5nm, Sii-7nm, Oiii=7nm if that helps

 

 

Cheers!

I am using gain 11 offset 30 for NB


  • Jon Rista likes this

#1010 StarMike8SE

StarMike8SE

    Apollo

  • *****
  • Posts: 1,211
  • Joined: 26 Mar 2014
  • Loc: Florida

Posted 20 September 2019 - 08:33 AM

Hi Mike, what GAIN and OFFSET settings were you on for each subs? It's pretty impressive!

I set the gain slider 2/3s the way up and the offset 1/3



#1011 StarMike8SE

StarMike8SE

    Apollo

  • *****
  • Posts: 1,211
  • Joined: 26 Mar 2014
  • Loc: Florida

Posted 20 September 2019 - 08:35 AM

Got this of the Eastern crescent Nebula Tuesday night

 

 get.jpg?insecure



#1012 terry59

terry59

    Cosmos

  • *****
  • Posts: 9,556
  • Joined: 18 Jul 2011
  • Loc: Colorado, USA

Posted 20 September 2019 - 09:28 AM

I've just started getting data with mine and have only a Ha filter. Here is one and I've put another on astrobin 

 

https://astrob.in/69hem5/0/

Attached Thumbnails

  • lobster claw_s.jpg

  • StarMike8SE and OldManSky like this

#1013 bobzeq25

bobzeq25

    Hubble

  • *****
  • Posts: 19,834
  • Joined: 27 Oct 2014

Posted 20 September 2019 - 10:19 AM

What are you considering "saturated"? For "most" of the stars to saturate, you would have to be rather wildly overexposed. Even with heavy LP, unless you are imaging at an extremely wide field with a very fast scope or lens, I would expect "some" but definitely not "most" stars to clip at 120 seconds for Gain 0. For more normal scopes, though, with the tiny pixels, and a 15ke- FWC, it should be pretty hard to saturate stars with this camera unless your image scale was 2-3"/px or more and a fairly fast f-ratio. 

 

Are you looking at a stretched image to determine which stars are saturating? Or are you looking at the unstretched linear image? And, when you say "saturated"...are you actually measuring the stars to see if they have indeed saturated (reached maximum signal)...or are you just assuming that every star that is visible in the linear signal field is "saturated"? If the latter...then my guess is only some of the stars you can see in the unstretched image are actually saturated. You can start to see stars in an unstretched sub LONG before they even get close to saturating. Saturation is only when they actually clip at maximum signal.

Pretty close, but, as a practical matter, my experience is somewhat different.  At high speed, the field doesn't have to be _that_ wide, and the image scale numbers you cite could be somewhat misleading.

 

With my F2 RASA, I can saturate "too many" stars for my taste with a 183color (which is harder to saturate) at 20", gain 50.  (Some guy I know here suggested lower gains could be trouble, and his advice is generally excellent.  <smile>)  1.2 image scale.

 

This is pretty marginal, and it's 150X15".

 

https://www.astrobin...3196/B/?nc=user

 

And yes, "too many" stars are saturated in individual subs.  Not that I know how to fix saturated stars in final images without complicated HDR techniques.  <smile>


Edited by bobzeq25, 20 September 2019 - 10:37 AM.


#1014 erictheastrojunkie

erictheastrojunkie

    Viking 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 648
  • Joined: 15 Jul 2016
  • Loc: Salt Lake City

Posted 20 November 2019 - 03:32 PM

Going to pick up the ASI183mm Pro for christmas to pair with my AT65EDQ scope (420mm, f6.5), not a fast scope by any means, but I figure with my typically average seeing and moderate light pollution (Bortle 5, ~19.8mag) it'll be a worthwhile investment. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on using a scope like this with this camera? Also, in terms of filters are people seeing much vignetting with 1.25" filters? Finally, has anyone paired the ZWO LRGB and NB filters with this camera (and if so, any thoughts on performance)? Right now I'm using a belt modified EQ-5 mount with a 60mm guidescope and QHY5L-ii guide cam, getting around 1" total RMS which has been good enough for my Nikon D5300 on this scope, down the road I'll probably upgrade both the mount and scope, but am going to run with it for now. 



#1015 wcreech

wcreech

    Explorer 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 65
  • Joined: 15 May 2017

Posted 20 November 2019 - 07:57 PM

Going to pick up the ASI183mm Pro for christmas to pair with my AT65EDQ scope (420mm, f6.5), not a fast scope by any means, but I figure with my typically average seeing and moderate light pollution (Bortle 5, ~19.8mag) it'll be a worthwhile investment. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on using a scope like this with this camera? Also, in terms of filters are people seeing much vignetting with 1.25" filters? Finally, has anyone paired the ZWO LRGB and NB filters with this camera (and if so, any thoughts on performance)? Right now I'm using a belt modified EQ-5 mount with a 60mm guidescope and QHY5L-ii guide cam, getting around 1" total RMS which has been good enough for my Nikon D5300 on this scope, down the road I'll probably upgrade both the mount and scope, but am going to run with it for now. 

Eric, I've used this camera with the AT65EDQ and I've been absolutely blown away by the combo. I think they pair really well together. Pixel Scale is 1.169 arcsec/pixel. I use 1.25" Optolong LRGB and Baader Narrowband filters. Unfortunately I've only used Ha with the AT65 so far but will soon have some color images with this combo. I have LRGB and SHO images with it on a larger ES127 scope but that scale is really demanding for me. I have a iEQ45 Pro and 10 minute subs are no problem at the AT65 scale. I don't know much about the EQ5. I would probably recommend a OAG if you can. I use an Orion TOAG and I absolutely love it. I feel like it takes quite a bit out of the equation like diff. flexure and simplifies the rig setup. I've never had a problem with calibrating out the amp glow IMO. Below are some examples of the combo. Sorry they're not in color but you can get a good idea. Enjoy the combo! Let me know if you have any specific questions. PS: I'm a big fan of your milky way work!

 

https://www.astrobin...5901/C/?nc=user

 

https://www.astrobin...417145/?nc=user

 

https://www.astrobin...2585/E/?nc=user

 

https://www.astrobin...udaogb/?nc=user



#1016 Ethanwyh

Ethanwyh

    Explorer 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 80
  • Joined: 16 Apr 2019
  • Loc: Singapore

Posted 20 November 2019 - 08:03 PM

Impressive images! here's my attempt at NB imaging with a William Optics Z61 and QHY 183M

 

P.S has anyone tried to do 180s subs for Narrowband imaging on the 183? AT 300s subs(GAIN 15 OFFSET 30), my stars become saturated. I was wondering it it's better to keep subs at 180s to prevent oversaturation at the expense of details(?)

 

 

 

Ha-NGC-2244--(For-web).jpg


  • OldManSky and milkychris like this

#1017 erictheastrojunkie

erictheastrojunkie

    Viking 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 648
  • Joined: 15 Jul 2016
  • Loc: Salt Lake City

Posted 20 November 2019 - 09:33 PM

Eric, I've used this camera with the AT65EDQ and I've been absolutely blown away by the combo. I think they pair really well together. Pixel Scale is 1.169 arcsec/pixel. I use 1.25" Optolong LRGB and Baader Narrowband filters. Unfortunately I've only used Ha with the AT65 so far but will soon have some color images with this combo. I have LRGB and SHO images with it on a larger ES127 scope but that scale is really demanding for me. I have a iEQ45 Pro and 10 minute subs are no problem at the AT65 scale. I don't know much about the EQ5. I would probably recommend a OAG if you can. I use an Orion TOAG and I absolutely love it. I feel like it takes quite a bit out of the equation like diff. flexure and simplifies the rig setup. I've never had a problem with calibrating out the amp glow IMO. Below are some examples of the combo. Sorry they're not in color but you can get a good idea. Enjoy the combo! Let me know if you have any specific questions. PS: I'm a big fan of your milky way work!

https://www.astrobin...5901/C/?nc=user

https://www.astrobin...417145/?nc=user

https://www.astrobin...2585/E/?nc=user

https://www.astrobin...udaogb/?nc=user

Really great shots! Makes me excited to move to this camera despite the cons I've read about in this thread. Wanted to keep the load light on my Sirius so I'm going to stick with this scope until I can afford a faster one and possibly a better mount, I'll have to look for an OAG and see if that's a route I want to go. My girlfriend has a 9.25 EdgeHD with the 1600mm Pro on it, we tried to get an OAG running with that setup and it was a brutal experience, so I'm wary of OAG setups for now. I am also considering the Optolong filters, might come down to whether I can find a good set on the classifieds. Thanks for the comment on the MW work, had a good year this year, can't wait to do some more dso imaging if the weather cooperates!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

#1018 wcreech

wcreech

    Explorer 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 65
  • Joined: 15 May 2017

Posted 20 November 2019 - 09:45 PM

Really great shots! Makes me excited to move to this camera despite the cons I've read about in this thread. Wanted to keep the load light on my Sirius so I'm going to stick with this scope until I can afford a faster one and possibly a better mount, I'll have to look for an OAG and see if that's a route I want to go. My girlfriend has a 9.25 EdgeHD with the 1600mm Pro on it, we tried to get an OAG running with that setup and it was a brutal experience, so I'm wary of OAG setups for now. I am also considering the Optolong filters, might come down to whether I can find a good set on the classifieds. Thanks for the comment on the MW work, had a good year this year, can't wait to do some more dso imaging if the weather cooperates!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

Yeah I tried to use an OAG with an 8" SCT and I agree. Brutal. The AT65 (420mm) is soooo much more forgiving with an OAG. Trust me. You won't regret it. Make sure you use a 1.25" compression or a helical focuser with the OAG and it'll make focusing it a breeze!



#1019 SilverLitz

SilverLitz

    Viking 1

  • -----
  • Posts: 685
  • Joined: 17 Feb 2018
  • Loc: Louisville, KY

Posted 21 November 2019 - 05:59 PM

Impressive images! here's my attempt at NB imaging with a William Optics Z61 and QHY 183M

 

P.S has anyone tried to do 180s subs for Narrowband imaging on the 183? AT 300s subs(GAIN 15 OFFSET 30), my stars become saturated. I was wondering it it's better to keep subs at 180s to prevent oversaturation at the expense of details(?)

 

Here are my exposures for my ASI183mm-Pro, using Unity Gain:

 

Esprit 100 w/ 0.75x FR/FF, f/4.13:

Lum      60s

R,G,B  120s

NB       240s 

 

Camera lens at f/2.8, either Samyang 135 or Canon 70-200 f/2.8L:

Lum      30s

R,G,B   60s

NB       120s

 

With these settings, sometimes I have a fractional-% clipped or 0% white clipped (max ~0.9995) and the blacks are off the left edge, e.g. 0% black clipping.  From my newbie prospective, these settings seems ~optimal, given that they are set and forget settings.

 

My home, according to websites, is Bortle 5, ~19.6mag.


  • Ethanwyh likes this

#1020 bobzeq25

bobzeq25

    Hubble

  • *****
  • Posts: 19,834
  • Joined: 27 Oct 2014

Posted 21 November 2019 - 06:23 PM

Impressive images! here's my attempt at NB imaging with a William Optics Z61 and QHY 183M

 

P.S has anyone tried to do 180s subs for Narrowband imaging on the 183? AT 300s subs(GAIN 15 OFFSET 30), my stars become saturated. I was wondering it it's better to keep subs at 180s to prevent oversaturation at the expense of details(?)

 

 

 

attachicon.gif Ha-NGC-2244--(For-web).jpg

180 second subs can provide essentially all the detail of 300 seconds.  You just shoot more of them.  Total imaging time is the key parameter, provided that subexposure time is somewhere in the ballpark.  More shorter subs equals more dynamic range.


  • Ethanwyh likes this

#1021 Ethanwyh

Ethanwyh

    Explorer 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 80
  • Joined: 16 Apr 2019
  • Loc: Singapore

Posted 21 November 2019 - 08:05 PM

Here are my exposures for my ASI183mm-Pro, using Unity Gain:

 

Esprit 100 w/ 0.75x FR/FF, f/4.13:

Lum      60s

R,G,B  120s

NB       240s 

 

Camera lens at f/2.8, either Samyang 135 or Canon 70-200 f/2.8L:

Lum      30s

R,G,B   60s

NB       120s

 

With these settings, sometimes I have a fractional-% clipped or 0% white clipped (max ~0.9995) and the blacks are off the left edge, e.g. 0% black clipping.  From my newbie prospective, these settings seems ~optimal, given that they are set and forget settings.

 

My home, according to websites, is Bortle 5, ~19.6mag.

 

Hey there, thanks for the reply, my area is around 19 Mag too, relieved to hear that unity settings worked for you. Will definitely try that out :) Noticed that your scope is actually a fast one too!


  • OldManSky likes this

#1022 Ethanwyh

Ethanwyh

    Explorer 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 80
  • Joined: 16 Apr 2019
  • Loc: Singapore

Posted 21 November 2019 - 08:07 PM

180 second subs can provide essentially all the detail of 300 seconds.  You just shoot more of them.  Total imaging time is the key parameter, provided that subexposure time is somewhere in the ballpark.  More shorter subs equals more dynamic range.

Oh I see, because I’ve always had this thinking that longer subs = better (especially for narrowband). My scope isn’t exactly a fast one, what is your usual set-up May I ask? I was wondering if one or Two f-stop differences will significantly impact the required exposure time  



#1023 bobzeq25

bobzeq25

    Hubble

  • *****
  • Posts: 19,834
  • Joined: 27 Oct 2014

Posted 21 November 2019 - 10:20 PM

Oh I see, because I’ve always had this thinking that longer subs = better (especially for narrowband). My scope isn’t exactly a fast one, what is your usual set-up May I ask? I was wondering if one or Two f-stop differences will significantly impact the required exposure time  

Faster systems require less total imaging time to achieve the same signal to noise ratio.  It's roughly the same as conventional photography, one f stop requires half the total time to achieve a similar result.  Because, per pixel, you've acquired more photons per unit time.  Obviously pixel size also plays, like much in AP of DSOs, this is not simple.

 

This is why I purchased a C8 RASA, F2.  That's not cost free, F2 imaging can be challenging in more than one way.  But it has its points.  <smile>

 

I also image at F4.8, F5.8, and F7.  With cameras with different pixel sizes.  I adjust my total imaging time goal accordingly.

 

More longer exposures reduces the impact of read noise, at the cost of reduced dynamic range.  It's a balancing act, not easily explained in a short post here.

 

It _is_ well explained in this book.  It takes several pages, with graphics.

 

https://www.amazon.c.../dp/1138055360/

 

But the bottom line remains.  Once you're in the ballpark for subexposure times (and narrowband changes the playing field <smile>), total imaging time is _far_ more important.  It's all too common for beginners to skimp on that.


Edited by bobzeq25, 21 November 2019 - 10:28 PM.


#1024 suvowner

suvowner

    Messenger

  • *****
  • Posts: 473
  • Joined: 22 May 2016
  • Loc: Arkansas

Posted 22 November 2019 - 12:02 AM

Faster systems require less total imaging time to achieve the same signal to noise ratio.  It's roughly the same as conventional photography, one f stop requires half the total time to achieve a similar result.  Because, per pixel, you've acquired more photons per unit time.  Obviously pixel size also plays, like much in AP of DSOs, this is not simple.

 

This is why I purchased a C8 RASA, F2.  That's not cost free, F2 imaging can be challenging in more than one way.  But it has its points.  <smile>

 

I also image at F4.8, F5.8, and F7.  With cameras with different pixel sizes.  I adjust my total imaging time goal accordingly.

 

More longer exposures reduces the impact of read noise, at the cost of reduced dynamic range.  It's a balancing act, not easily explained in a short post here.

 

It _is_ well explained in this book.  It takes several pages, with graphics.

 

https://www.amazon.c.../dp/1138055360/

 

But the bottom line remains.  Once you're in the ballpark for subexposure times (and narrowband changes the playing field <smile>), total imaging time is _far_ more important.  It's all too common for beginners to skimp on that.

a must watch for astroimagers

https://www.youtube....h?v=EO4QFb3ydNM


  • moxican likes this

#1025 wcreech

wcreech

    Explorer 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 65
  • Joined: 15 May 2017

Posted 10 December 2019 - 10:14 PM

Going to pick up the ASI183mm Pro for christmas to pair with my AT65EDQ scope (420mm, f6.5), not a fast scope by any means, but I figure with my typically average seeing and moderate light pollution (Bortle 5, ~19.8mag) it'll be a worthwhile investment. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on using a scope like this with this camera? Also, in terms of filters are people seeing much vignetting with 1.25" filters? Finally, has anyone paired the ZWO LRGB and NB filters with this camera (and if so, any thoughts on performance)? Right now I'm using a belt modified EQ-5 mount with a 60mm guidescope and QHY5L-ii guide cam, getting around 1" total RMS which has been good enough for my Nikon D5300 on this scope, down the road I'll probably upgrade both the mount and scope, but am going to run with it for now. 

I finally finished a SHO image with the AT65. I feel like I battled some amp glow on both sides of the image but it really wasn't much of a battle IMO. Overall, I'm happy with the way the amp glow calibrated out and the 1.25" Baader filters presented no vignetting problems. Hope you enjoy it as much as I am.

 

https://www.astrobin...y398v0/?nc=user


  • StarMike8SE and suvowner like this


CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. Donation is not required by any means, so please enjoy your stay.


Recent Topics






Cloudy Nights LLC
Cloudy Nights Sponsor: Astronomics