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The Dai-Ichi 80mm f15 has landed - Help required..!

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#26 Kokatha man

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 05:05 AM

I've finished the finder scope, cleaned & re-assembled the lenses after I'd painted the inside & outside of its' little ota...& put it back together... smile.gif

 

I used a soft brass brush to burnish the alignment screws & their little lock-nuts (all knurled) & hopefully the pikky shows that their condition was really very good - I strongly suspect that this scope was left uncovered for a long period in a dusty shed or even under-house storage area in suburban Brisbane which is common in older houses, in the sub-tropical climate Brissy has: this from the general condition, with nearly all the objective lenses showing not just dust but actual clumps of dirt etc & little moths inside the ota up against the rear objective lens shocked.gif ...meaning no dust caps for some tubes - other "evidence" reinforces this suspicion but even in these likely circumstances the scope & mount etc is still complete & just about everything is redeemable: of course the Sun & Moon filters get the flick as well as the Huygens ep's but I can resurrect at least one of the diagonal prisms...& the only other real issue I see atm is that some of the mount parts will need re-chroming.

 

Thank goodness the previous owner did not try to clean the scope lenses, they were easy to clean but required a very gentle & circumspect approach due the the amount of crud on them..! lol.gif

 

I'm not happy with my paint job on the focuser today but there were a couple of extenuating circumstances wink.gif - but ultimately it was a poor job by me - I'll re-strip it & be much more careful tomorrow. (& successful, I hope! fingerscrossed.gif )

 

ps: I just had another look at the Moon through the guide scope before going in for the night - that is one sharp moon at 25X & still cannot see any CA...I'll crank up the magnification once everything is (temporarily) mounted on the EQ6...& am really looking forward to seeing what the main 80mm might reveal in image quality..! smile.gif

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-FinishedFinder.jpg


Edited by Kokatha man, 26 December 2017 - 05:17 AM.

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#27 Chuck Hards

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 08:11 AM

An addendum to the previous posts re the guide-scope: with a Celestron 0.965" diagonal in the focuser, focus is achieved with about 2" of the tube extended, nothing like that shown in the image in the post above. wink.gif If I go for one of those "off the shelf" 0.965" - 1.25" diagonals that I see Agena advertising I should be ok. (I think...read somewhere about a cautionary comment about the amount of extra light-path needed, maybe better to just lathe a little fitting up & be done with it.) 

 

I noticed a little piece of "packing" in the shape of a semi-encompassing strip of material (plastic, paper?) on one of the focuser knob axles - the main focuser has one also, only on 1 side strangely...

 

Anyway, I lost the guide scope's one & putting it back together noticed that the action was a little bit lumpy...so I made 1 then 2 for both axles out of some shrink-wrap electrical insulation tubing/spaghetti: this seemed to help somewhat but then searching around I came across this little spring-tensioner strip I'd taken from a very cheap plastic focuser that came into my possession eons ago - this completed the job & the guide scope now has a very smooth & tactile focus mechanism as well as what seems excellent optical qualities..! waytogo.gifwaytogo.gif

 

You can see the little bits of packing & 1 of them close-up in the inset of pikky #1 & the spring tensioner clip in pikky #2...this bears down with adjustable pressure onto the focuser shafts, depending upon how tightly you screw down the 2 screws that hold the plate down...

 

I believe it might be a common thing on modern r&p focusers but obviously not on the D-I Koguka nor the Eikow, although I haven't checked out the Royal Astro yet.

 

Anyway, it has turned the focuser action into a delight, so I might make one up from a small strip of hard brass for the main focuser should I feel it needs one - smooth-acting, snug focusers are important mechanisms imo..! wink.gif

 

attachicon.gifDai-Ichi-Kogaku-GuidescopeFocuserMods#1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifDai-Ichi-Kogaku-GuidescopeFocuserMods#2.jpg

 

I have found more than one classic old refractor to have used sheet lead bearing material on the focuser pinion shaft, from the factory.  By the time these scopes get to us, often the lead has either fallen-out or worn-down to foil thickness.  Not all scopes use it but those that do have benefited greatly from fresh lead.  I recently re-did the focuser on a 60mm Eikow for a CN member and it is now the definition of smoothness and precision.

 

See this LINK for details.


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#28 walter a

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 08:25 AM

An addendum to the previous posts re the guide-scope: with a Celestron 0.965" diagonal in the focuser, focus is achieved with about 2" of the tube extended, nothing like that shown in the image in the post above. wink.gif If I go for one of those "off the shelf" 0.965" - 1.25" diagonals that I see Agena advertising I should be ok. (I think...read somewhere about a cautionary comment about the amount of extra light-path needed, maybe better to just lathe a little fitting up & be done with it.) 
 
I noticed a little piece of "packing" in the shape of a semi-encompassing strip of material (plastic, paper?) on one of the focuser knob axles - the main focuser has one also, only on 1 side strangely...
 
Anyway, I lost the guide scope's one & putting it back together noticed that the action was a little bit lumpy...so I made 1 then 2 for both axles out of some shrink-wrap electrical insulation tubing/spaghetti: this seemed to help somewhat but then searching around I came across this little spring-tensioner strip I'd taken from a very cheap plastic focuser that came into my possession eons ago - this completed the job & the guide scope now has a very smooth & tactile focus mechanism as well as what seems excellent optical qualities..! waytogo.gif:waytogo:
 
You can see the little bits of packing & 1 of them close-up in the inset of pikky #1 & the spring tensioner clip in pikky #2...this bears down with adjustable pressure onto the focuser shafts, depending upon how tightly you screw down the 2 screws that hold the plate down...
 
I believe it might be a common thing on modern r&p focusers but obviously not on the D-I Koguka nor the Eikow, although I haven't checked out the Royal Astro yet.
 
Anyway, it has turned the focuser action into a delight, so I might make one up from a small strip of hard brass for the main focuser should I feel it needs one - smooth-acting, snug focusers are important mechanisms imo..! wink.gif
 
attachicon.gifDai-Ichi-Kogaku-GuidescopeFocuserMods#1.jpg
 
attachicon.gifDai-Ichi-Kogaku-GuidescopeFocuserMods#2.jpg


Mo, nice fix with the spring plate, I used the same plate to help out a bent pinion shaft on my 3" eikow that I have since replaced with a pinon shaft from a celestron focuser.[temporarily] I might have to source some thin lead and try Chucks fix.

Edited by walter a, 26 December 2017 - 08:41 AM.


#29 Kokatha man

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 08:43 AM

I'm sure that lead foil makes a very good bearing liner Chuck...the interesting aspect for me was that both the main & guide scope had one of these "liners" for want of a better word that really had the appearance of thin, grease-impregnated gasket paper, a single one & both on the same side fwiw. (the right side, with the focuser turned upside down & ep end towards me)

 

Not really sure what function it could have provided except as an additional "packer/spacer" & stops wear on the r&p body proper, but I added them to see what a double-emulation of them did at first...

 

All you folks of my generation would know of Babbitt metal bearings, originally a mainly tin-based alloy for big-ends in cars but later for lead-based bearing alloys. ( I seem to remember a chapter in Steinbeck's The Grapes of Wrath where the family had to pour new ones for their car by melting down old shells/liners...)

 

Anyway, that's a very good fix for that type of mechanism Chuck waytogo.gif waytogo.gif but unfortunately neither r&p had that nice little "half-cage" you showed in that thread to constrain any bearing securely in...why I used that spring device that Walter has said he did also...waytogo.gif

 

My Eikow 60mm doesn't have one either unfortunately...I just checked. frown.gif

 

If I find the main ota's focuser not smooth enough I will make another spring device out of hard brass...might even make a pair of lead bearings like yours' but I'd have to watch out to see if it doesn't interfere with the gear enmeshment...

 

I really think one of the real joys of this caper is that it gives old men the ability to tinker & invent from their vast stores of experience...well, I'll carry the "old" bit if that comment offends anyone else..! lol.gif



#30 Kokatha man

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 08:48 AM

ps: probably lead foil would not be any thicker than the shrink-wrap insulation I used, so I might copy your design mod Chuck & get the best possible outcome! waytogo.gif


Edited by Kokatha man, 26 December 2017 - 08:49 AM.

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#31 Kokatha man

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 04:50 AM

...still plodding away! wink.gif

 

A few posts back I mentioned that my first attempt at applying the paint (crinkle black) to the focuser was unsuccessful - "extremely ugly" was the most fitting description! lol.gif

 

Despite forging a successful career as an artist, aerosol art was never my thing, although I have successfully used this type of paint before, many years ago now. wink.gif

 

Like a lot of older folks I've probably forgotten more than I've learnt by now...I took the directions on the can ("multiple heavy coats") literally - I almost opted for a satin black out of despair after looking at the results lol.gif - that was the original finish - but reasoned that I needed to master the crinkle finish if I was going to do justice to the EQ mount parts of the various mounts I'll be doing soon, & this was the original finish for all of them...I reasoned that this finish for the focuser body - offset by stripping the ally knobs back from their painted finish - would make a very nice contrast to the white ota.

 

Anyway, after about an hour or more scraping off the gunk from the crude outcome of that first attempt & working back into all the crevices etc I adopted a much gentler, single coat; "dusting" the spray on from a much greater distance than recommended - & "voila!" smile.gif

 

Much happier with the finer, restrained crinkle now & old experiences/memories of crinkle-spraying came back to me..! wink.gif

 

Not having lead foil atm but wanting to try Chuck's suggestions for pinion-axle bearings - which will include making a bearing cage out of thin brass strip, which I have in abundance, I'll opt for tin/lead foil which I can make up very quickly from solder...this should be at least as good as lead & I do love to make up stuff like this...

 

I'll place them on the Guide scope & the Eikow as well as the Royal Astro focuser down the track if they prove better: always good to push the boundaries to try & extract the best performances & I'm sure Chuck's "testimonial" is a valid one! waytogo.gif

 

Here's the finish on the focuser & objective cell: a couple of little sections on the focuser had to be masked off for where the r&p mechanism goes. wink.gif

 

ps: the un-crinkled section of the objective cell (plus threaded part) are where the dew-shield screws on, so these parts will not be visible. ;)

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-ObjectiveCell&FocuserFinish.jpg


Edited by Kokatha man, 27 December 2017 - 04:51 AM.

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#32 shredder1656

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 02:17 PM

...still plodding away! wink.gif

 

A few posts back I mentioned that my first attempt at applying the paint (crinkle black) to the focuser was unsuccessful - "extremely ugly" was the most fitting description! lol.gif

 

Despite forging a successful career as an artist, aerosol art was never my thing, although I have successfully used this type of paint before, many years ago now. wink.gif

 

Like a lot of older folks I've probably forgotten more than I've learnt by now...I took the directions on the can ("multiple heavy coats") literally - I almost opted for a satin black out of despair after looking at the results lol.gif - that was the original finish - but reasoned that I needed to master the crinkle finish if I was going to do justice to the EQ mount parts of the various mounts I'll be doing soon, & this was the original finish for all of them...I reasoned that this finish for the focuser body - offset by stripping the ally knobs back from their painted finish - would make a very nice contrast to the white ota.

 

Anyway, after about an hour or more scraping off the gunk from the crude outcome of that first attempt & working back into all the crevices etc I adopted a much gentler, single coat; "dusting" the spray on from a much greater distance than recommended - & "voila!" smile.gif

 

Much happier with the finer, restrained crinkle now & old experiences/memories of crinkle-spraying came back to me..! wink.gif

 

Not having lead foil atm but wanting to try Chuck's suggestions for pinion-axle bearings - which will include making a bearing cage out of thin brass strip, which I have in abundance, I'll opt for tin/lead foil which I can make up very quickly from solder...this should be at least as good as lead & I do love to make up stuff like this...

 

I'll place them on the Guide scope & the Eikow as well as the Royal Astro focuser down the track if they prove better: always good to push the boundaries to try & extract the best performances & I'm sure Chuck's "testimonial" is a valid one! waytogo.gif

 

Here's the finish on the focuser & objective cell: a couple of little sections on the focuser had to be masked off for where the r&p mechanism goes. wink.gif

 

ps: the un-crinkled section of the objective cell (plus threaded part) are where the dew-shield screws on, so these parts will not be visible. wink.gif

 

attachicon.gifDai-Ichi-Kogaku-ObjectiveCell&FocuserFinish.jpg

Nicely done!



#33 Kokatha man

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 10:02 PM

Thanks shredder! smile.gif

 

While waiting for the stripper to work on the painted ally focuser knobs I whipped up some thin solder (lead/tin) "sheets" for the pinion gear shafts as per Chuck's idea...but thought I'd show how easy they are to make if you haven't any thin lead foil or other suitable material at hand - obviously you'd need a soldering iron & some solder, plus a sheet of glass..! lol.gif

 

An iron with a bit of wattage helps, hold the iron about a foot above the (clean) glass sheet & with the tip pointing slightly downwards feed solder onto it until a blob drops off onto the glass...a bit of practise & you'll have more than enough "sheets" in 10 minutes, practise time included! wink.gif

 

Don't keep on wasting solder wire if the first results aren't big enough for your requirements or have holes etc in them, just scrape those off, scrunch them up & feed these duds onto the iron tip - tweezers help to stop burning your fingers! smile.gif

 

I use a thin scraper & all you have to do is lift the edges of each "splash/sheet" & they come off clean - you'll notice some very slight bumpiness to the best surface (upside) & if you want you can slide them back & forth on very fine wet & dry (dry!) to smooth them but I think that is quite unnecessary...just figure out the best way to cut each "splash" for the maximum size strip if you need the longest strip possible from each splash...scissors cut it very easily. wink.gif

 

If you fill up the glass with these splashes but want more/better results, lift these off & use the scraper to quickly clean the glass of resin & blow off before dripping more onto it - you want clean glass for the drops...the other aspects you might see in the pikky are little resin splotches on the splash/sheets...

 

Quick & easy, over & out for now from Gyro Gearloose, aka Mo. smile.gif

 

Edit: ...another "dork" moment - the focuser knobs were anodised aluminium/aluminium - darn tough, thick layer too...not only burnt my fingers when that nasty paint stripper dissolved the latex gloves I had on (what was I thinking?!?) but wasted my time also: I've removed the anodising now & they look much more shmik as bare brushed ally against the crinkle black of the focuser body! grin.gif

 

SolderFocuserBearings.jpg


Edited by Kokatha man, 27 December 2017 - 11:12 PM.

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#34 Kokatha man

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Posted 29 December 2017 - 04:49 AM

...slowly, slowly - although when I think that this scope arrived only 8 days ago, I start to think that I really am a bit manic & ott: Pat tells me I need to read a good book to relax & stop spending all my time working on this scope! rofl2.gif

 

My concern now is where I've put the standard dovetail head from my EQ6 mount so that I can put the Dai Ichi Kogaku on it to give it a trial...maybe tomorrow night if I'm lucky! wink.gif

 

I've taken the prism diagonal apart & re-painted it & will clean the prism tomorrow - it is an extremely well-made unit & everything looks fine...I've even renovated the 2X barlow which has a single cemented doublet lens...I suspect it isn't top quality lol.gif but with only a 18mm Kellner as my shortest f/l 0.965" ep, I'd like to crank the magnification up to at least the 133X that combo would give if I test the scope tomorrow night... wink.gif

 

I must get a 0.965" to 1&1/4" coupler or make one up on the lathe - but there are quite a few of these "must do's" for me atm... smile.gif

 

I also want to make a couple of guider "locater" rings out of split pvc tubing slices, putting some adhesive felt on their inners with shallow holes drilled to accept the guide ring alignment screws...done this before & it keeps the guider positioned very stable & doesn't mark its' ota - I'm now starting to get uber-protective & I don't even know if it's a lemon or not yet..! lol.gif

 

Anyway, this plethora of little jobs that have me standing on my feet all day are starting to tire me...I'll take a break before starting on the D-I K's mount for sure!sleepy.gif

 

The major focuser work is now done, I'm going to pad a bit more liner felt into the slide-tube in the morning & put that back in - I've never dealt with these devices before but figure they need to be nice & snug so that they stay at where you set them, even though there's only an ep & diagonal loading them usually...

 

I placed lead/tin bearing strips (solder as above) around the pinion gear shafts...I recounted earlier my idiotic attempt to paint-strip what were really anodised focuser knobs before I woke up & removed the anodising mechanically...& I've replaced the focuser draw-tube's knurled lock-nut.

 

I found this fat (1/4"UNC) knurled aluminium setscrew in my junk-box so I drilled out the hole in the focuser & re-tapped it for this. (btw, I use "setscrew" as per the old definition down here of a bolt that has a fully-threaded shank - I do realise that's a bit archaic now, however - like me! wink.gif )

 

I centre-popped the face of the threaded end after I shortened it & drilled a shallow hole...punched out an appropriate-sized plug of Teflon & pushed it into this face...

 

What it now does is provide very mild, adjustable drag on the draw-tube - Teflon is so low re friction that you cannot really lock the tube this way but for my money it adds a really tactile range of adjustment to just how  the focus action feels...it is so very smooth & buttery now..! waytogo.gif

 

You can see the "friction" drag screw next to the focuser in Pikky #1 & in its place in #2...assembling the scope fully sometime tomorrow (hopefully! fingerscrossed.gif ) & maybe test it tomorrow night if possible..! smile.gif

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-Focuser#1a.jpg

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-Focuser#2.jpg


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#35 davidmcgo

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Posted 29 December 2017 - 08:47 PM

 

An addendum to the previous posts re the guide-scope: with a Celestron 0.965" diagonal in the focuser, focus is achieved with about 2" of the tube extended, nothing like that shown in the image in the post above. wink.gif If I go for one of those "off the shelf" 0.965" - 1.25" diagonals that I see Agena advertising I should be ok. (I think...read somewhere about a cautionary comment about the amount of extra light-path needed, maybe better to just lathe a little fitting up & be done with it.) 

 

I noticed a little piece of "packing" in the shape of a semi-encompassing strip of material (plastic, paper?) on one of the focuser knob axles - the main focuser has one also, only on 1 side strangely...

 

Anyway, I lost the guide scope's one & putting it back together noticed that the action was a little bit lumpy...so I made 1 then 2 for both axles out of some shrink-wrap electrical insulation tubing/spaghetti: this seemed to help somewhat but then searching around I came across this little spring-tensioner strip I'd taken from a very cheap plastic focuser that came into my possession eons ago - this completed the job & the guide scope now has a very smooth & tactile focus mechanism as well as what seems excellent optical qualities..! waytogo.gifwaytogo.gif

 

You can see the little bits of packing & 1 of them close-up in the inset of pikky #1 & the spring tensioner clip in pikky #2...this bears down with adjustable pressure onto the focuser shafts, depending upon how tightly you screw down the 2 screws that hold the plate down...

 

I believe it might be a common thing on modern r&p focusers but obviously not on the D-I Koguka nor the Eikow, although I haven't checked out the Royal Astro yet.

 

Anyway, it has turned the focuser action into a delight, so I might make one up from a small strip of hard brass for the main focuser should I feel it needs one - smooth-acting, snug focusers are important mechanisms imo..! wink.gif

 

attachicon.gifDai-Ichi-Kogaku-GuidescopeFocuserMods#1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifDai-Ichi-Kogaku-GuidescopeFocuserMods#2.jpg

 

I have found more than one classic old refractor to have used sheet lead bearing material on the focuser pinion shaft, from the factory.  By the time these scopes get to us, often the lead has either fallen-out or worn-down to foil thickness.  Not all scopes use it but those that do have benefited greatly from fresh lead.  I recently re-did the focuser on a 60mm Eikow for a CN member and it is now the definition of smoothness and precision.

 

See this LINK for details.

 

Great tip!  My 1950s Unitron 114 focuser was too loose to hold a Unihex in focus but I used the foil from a wine bottle neck and seems to have helped a lot!  Probably not as good as straight lead or tin since there seems to be some polymer coating, but the material is a freebie once the wine is open!   I basically made a rectangle with an opening for the pinion and pressed the sides down into the pinion shaft notch, installed the knob and pinion, and then the Bakelite block.  Seemed easier than wrapping the shaft.

 

Dave


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#36 Kokatha man

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 04:48 AM

...a bit of a rant later: no trialling tonight even if it does clear up - I need to slacken off a bit & smell the roses, maybe even get back to doing a little early planetary imaging. :)

 

Can't find the EQ6's normal vixen-style dovetail bar but can make up a workaround...but here's the scope looking quite spiff in my estimation! wink.gif (I'm easily pleased. lol.gif )

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-Finished-otas#1a.png

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-Finished-otas#2.png


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#37 Kokatha man

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 05:27 AM

Hmmm...maybe a bit less chance of poking an eye out with the little suite of ota's arranged like this: guess I'll just have to suck it & see..! lol.gif

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-Finished-otas#3.png


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#38 Kokatha man

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 07:44 PM

...I spent the first part of this morning in the gardening, forking over a bed & planting out some more seedlings: I believe there's a forum on CN where people talk gardening guff so perhaps I should start posting there also...I tend to become a bit manic & overly-focused on one thing at a time! lol.gif

 

Talking "manic" I've also come to realise that with these "vintage refractors" one has to accommodate their individual realities - a sort of vernacular "zen" attitude. wink.gif

 

This revelation lol.gif relates to the D-I Kogaku's focuser...I commented earlier that I had made a few simple mods & the unit felt "buttery smooth" etc...to my horror when I attached it & racked it in & out I noticed significant (to me) vertical shift of the drawtube when doing so. frown.gif

 

I'd not really noticed anything in that respect with it sitting on the bench etc & had to stop & think for a minute... hmm.gif

 

Rack & pinions transmit this vector force when operated, up when racking out...& down when racking in. (as well as the lateral force/movement that operates the focusing operation)

 

Image shift would be the most obvious feature - I haven't taken any measurements nor other variables but noted it is also present on the Sears 6333 that Milt put a lot of work into from his very experienced background - & that the Eikow exhibits it also...I suspect all these simple r&p's have it to varying degrees, an inescapable aspect of their design...forums are replete with r&p discussion, the venerable (older) Takahashi r&p's get a grilling here on CN at times...

 

Now, you have to take into account we are planetary imagers & aspects such as collimation (& any shift thereof)... focus, image shift in general etc, are gauged & minimised to the finest degree, especially at the f/l's & limits of resolution we aim for in our endeavours...

 

This makes me uber-fussy when I appraise these focusers, especially & I have been working on trying to minimise these "problems" as far as possible - although I emphasize that "problem" is probably far more to do with the demands I place upon optics & associated mechanical paraphernalia. wink.gif

 

I first packed more felt in but then the focuser was far too stiff, despite eliminating nearly all this movement: I then tried tightening that Teflon-tipped "drag screw" I made, it is directly above the pinion gear in the focuser but the vector force in r&p's ("pressure angle") is somewhat less than 45° (around 30° wrt the rack) so from a design consideration, perhaps not the best positioning...

 

I've stripped out this double-felt lining now & despite contemplating some major modifications to the focuser which I am fairly certain would enable it to function far better I've decided that I need to adopt a little bit of the "zen" approach & just experiment with repacking a bit less robustly but experimenting, possibly altering the size of the Teflon head/tip to my "drag screw" to get an acceptable outcome. (for me!)

 

And of course realising the limitations of the equipment - otherwise we'd start with newer focuser replacements...then replace the lenses...then the mounts etc, etc..! rofl2.gif

 

I'll report back later although today is Pat & my 50th Anniversary - ps Pattie: "I love you! wub.png " (she reads all this stuff! lol.gif )

 

EDIT: One thing I'm about to do with the now stripped/cleaned inside of the focuser casing is not apply the adhesive-backed felt directly to said casing - I'll experiment with sticking the adhesive-backed felt to a few different weight papers (100gsm - 250gsm) & use a simple rubber-based glue to adhere them to the inside of the casing...of course experimenting/trialling first without sticking the papers to the felt & the lot to the casing! :lol:


Edited by Kokatha man, 30 December 2017 - 08:10 PM.

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#39 Kokatha man

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 12:46 AM

Well, stubborn obstinacy will get you far if you're dogged enough..! lol.gif

 

After finally stripping out the felt etc for about the 4th time, which required arduous re-cleaning of the inside of the focuser casting each time...I'm finally happy with the results for the focuser re smoothness & stability. grin.gif

 

So much for the "zen" approach - I'm simply a card-carrying lunatic. wink.gif

 

Anyway, hope to fabricate a dovetail etc to mount the Dai Ichi Kogaku on the EQ6 for testing in a day or 2...all I can do atm is look at the screw-heads on the neighbour's roof across the road...about 70 yards distance.

 

I swapped over the Teflon spigot for one of those nylon/Delrin one-piece tap washers...it sits against the upside of the focuser body & has a small spigot loosely held in the threaded hole - the knurled screw simply tightens down onto this spigot & applies various pressures to the re-shaped washer/valve which provides a much better, larger spacer/guide to the focuser at the top: I shaped it using wet & dry on a steel tube the exact diameter of the drawtube keeping its rotational orientation fixed...that's the ink-mark you can see on it in the pikky below...

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-Focuse-NylonGuide.jpg


Edited by Kokatha man, 01 January 2018 - 12:46 AM.

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#40 Kokatha man

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 07:49 AM

...ok, we're airborne - very full Moon but still spectacular...pity about all the crud on the ep at the focal plane: I take my hat off to folks who image with hand-held iphones etc...a real feat!

 

At only about 57X (the barlow doesn't fit into the diagonals) the amount of Lunar detail even with this phase not being good re shadows & contrast  etc was outstanding - pin-point stars with M42's little trap & surrounding nebula also excellent, despite the very bright Moon. smile.gif

 

Seeing was very poor this evening so couldn't detect any Airy Disks...but the stars broke into very homogenous concentric Diffraction Rings inside & outside focus - what a pity the Moon was out & seeing wasn't a bit better!

 

Could not detect any CA even with said Moon...leaving it out on the EQ6 till the morning 'cos cannot resist looking at Mars & Jove then...but we are certainly taking it with us later in the week when we do some C14 imaging of these planets - might run one of the other cams with the D-I Kogaku while we're away... wink.gif

 

Both Pat & I are quite blown away by how good this little scope is - a "Dai-Ichi" for sure..!!! waytogo.gif waytogo.gif waytogo.gif

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-onEQ6#1.jpg

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-onEQ6#2.jpg

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-onEQ6#3.jpg

 

 


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#41 Bomber Bob

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 12:02 PM

Both Pat & I are quite blown away by how good this little scope is - a "Dai-Ichi" for sure..!!!

 

I'm not surprised, and I could kick myself for not snagging the one that was eBay a while back.  I finally got your RARE find Registered -- took me a while to figure out how to code it, and how to describe it.

 

A concern I had about it was the mount.  I've owned an EQ-1 (a China clone), and didn't think it robust enough for an 80mm F15.  But, your D-K version is modified, looks beefier, and has those sturdy Vixen-style wood legs, rather than the flimsy aluminum we see these days.  Seems to me that D-K aimed to keep the cost down, but chose some of the better elements around at that time.  The final product looks like a serious challenger to Towa's Model 339 -- what I used to consider Japan's last Golden Age 3" refractor.

 

Based on the manual, I'm calling it a Model 8803.  Looking at the label, I wonder if any other importers put their brand on this scope -- was it even available long enough for that?

 

Again, Congratulations!  You snagged a remarkable Classic!


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#42 Kokatha man

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 08:15 PM

Thanks for registering it Bob! waytogo.gif

 

I hope these scopes stay in our family or if that doesn't happen, they go to someone who can appreciate them for what they are...even if they ended up as freebies or some other sort of transaction when we're too old or whatever. wink.gif

 

On that score I want to echo a common theme here in the "Classic Telescopes" forum & a "thank you" for the extraordinary support & generosity of a certain member...I won't name the gentleman but many will know who I'm speaking of: the Royal Astro had a few issues with missing/damaged mount parts & this fella contacted me completely unbidden...& has sent several essential items to resolve said issues! smile.gif

 

Getting back to the Dai-Ichi Kogaku - I'm still undecided as to how well the mount might hold the scope Bob, but your comments hearten me somewhat - riding on the EQ6 meant it was a breeze & even though it was the roughest PA...at just under 60X any objects hung there in the ep's for as long as we looked at them. wink.gif (I just aligned the "front" legs of the tripod with those of the EQ8 which was already set up adjacent to where we put the EQ6...& used the Wixey for the latitude)

 

These long f/l babies are just so amazing in their own rights - we were gobsmacked at the amount of contrast we could see even on a washed-out Full Moon: such outstanding tonal contrast at sharpest focus...& the diffraction rings were so clear, concentric & uniform! (I'm used to looking in-camera at all manner of variation here as we collimate the C14 for planetary imaging...)

 

Both the Moon & the weather patterns were unconducive as far as "seeing" is concerned, but after letting our eyes adapt M42 revealed strong, extensive nebulosity...The Pleiades were also a great sight in the fov using the 30mm ep! 

 

It was also fun to simply switch from the view at the main scope to that of the guide/sub scope at will for wider or more in-depth views. smile.gif

 

I'd better stop this gushing lol.gif but words are almost inadequate for this experience in less-than-favourable conditions...these long f/l scopes really do have a certain quality, & of course their appearances are great! smile.gif

 

I've started to re-arrange the studio work-tables etc to give me room to get back into the mount restoration for this scope & the little Tasco I'm restoring for Milt's Sears 6333: I tend to become very messy & disorganised as I near completion on any single job so I need to get everything ship-shape for the restart...but for now I'll relax a tad before getting ready to go out imaging later this week: we will take the D-I Kogaku & set it up with one of the spare ZWO's if I can rig some sort of adapter up...I might be able to go down to a 9mm ep that would give us 133X that way & if I can employ a t/vue barlow that would really ramp the magnification up to put the scope through its paces! wink.gif

 


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#43 Bomber Bob

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 08:34 PM

It was also fun to simply switch from the view at the main scope to that of the guide/sub scope at will for wider or more in-depth views.

 

My duo-scopes are among my favorites -- the Lafayette Galactic & Edmund 4 have 40mm & 50mm F12s, respectively, and I'm adding a 60mm F7 to the Dakin 4, too.


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#44 Kokatha man

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 02:57 AM

Yes - being able to switch between the 2 ota's is really good imo also Bob! smile.gif

 

Ok - Pat has just left my studio as we prepare for an imaging trip tomorrow afternoon for a few days hopefully...she has confirmed my opinion that the focuser is even smoother & lighter to operate than last night - "markedly" she said, that after what I thought was pretty good yesterday! wink.gif

 

I'm terribly "pernickety" as well as "rough as guts" in other respects - but I just had to make one last modification to the bearings of the pinion shaft! rofl2.gif

 

Cannot see any more modifications unless I sit down (much) later to install 3 adjustable Teflon guide strips inside the focuser body - & before anyone starts shouting "sacrilege!" let me hasten to add that I've already thought it through & it would only entail the appearance of 5 little grubscrews flush on the focuser's outside, almost invisible at that. (2 more on the narrower/end section of the focuser, 3 on the wider diameter section...) 

 

This would be in line with some of the better, modern r&p focusers, eliminating all shift to all intents & purposes...but if I do this it will only be after all the other scopes & the mounts are fully-restored.

 

Here's the latest mods...I made longer lead/tin bearing strips & folded the ends back onto the flat section of the focuser block that houses the pinion gear - then I made a thin brass "packing" strip that effectively clamps these folded ends onto the flat section & effectively secures these bearings from shifting etc. (you can just see it in the pikky on the underside of the chrome finishing plate that accepts the 4 screws that retain the pinion shaft etc in position...)

 

As many would know, tightening the finishing plate effectively increases the mesh of the r&p gear-teeth & doing this increases the vector force (pressure line & angle) present in r&p's that is the major factor in causing the drawtube to shift vertically during operation: http://nptel.ac.in/c...es/116102012/48   

 

For some unknown reason (well, half-known ;) ) this latest arrangement seems to give me the best ability to adjust everything for minimal drawtube up & down shift whilst enabling smoothest/lightest drawtube operation...I say this having tried just about every combination I could engineer, using single & double brass bearing liner/shells as well as retainer spring strips etc, etc... lol.gif  

 

So all I have to do now is clean the C14's corrector plate & pack it in the back of the car for the trip, along with its mount & the Dai-Ichi Kogaku & the EQ6 etc, set the 2 Canon (imitation) 62mm lens clamp rings with extra felt onto another dovetail so we can take the Sears 6333...I've adapted the EQ6 head to accept vixen-style dovetails & this will give me more flexibility to balance the D-I Kogaku tube where sliding the ota along in the tube rings was a bit problematical due to the guide/sub scope's positioning...

 

Hopefully we can run a few avi's of whatever with this little refractor while we're away because the 1.25" to 0.965" adapter should be finished by then also..! lol.gif

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku-Focuser-LastMechMod.jpg


Edited by Kokatha man, 02 January 2018 - 03:02 AM.

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#45 Kokatha man

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 06:46 PM

...although technically not part of the D-I Kogaku restoration etc I've finished the tube clamps for the lovely little Sears 6333 that Uncle Milt did such a nice job on...& which started this entire mania for me..! rofl2.gif

 

It was here on CN "Classics" that I read about using a couple of camera lens clamps in lieu of those hard-to-get 60mm clamshell brackets waytogo.gif...only cost about $14 US for a pair of them! smile.gif

 

A double layer of adhesive-backed felt makes them as snug as bugs.

 

Just got to have that 1.25" - 0.965" adapter before we leave this afternoon! wink.gif

 

Sears6333-TubeClamps.jpg


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#46 Kokatha man

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 11:12 PM

...finished the 1.25" to 0.965" adapter, we're good to go in a couple of minutes: I'll have to black Sharpie pen the inside when we arrive in the Murray Mallee & I'll leave the machining of the compression band groove to my mate Mike when we get back...he's the master of that stuff!

 

Not bad imho...very little extra distance added btw! wink.gif

 

Hopefully some Lunar imaging with the D-I Kogaku while we're up there. fingerscrossed.gif

 

Reducer#1.jpg

 

 


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#47 Kokatha man

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 05:11 AM

...waiting for the night...& tomorrow morning, at Sedan in the Murray Mallee! 

 

Also, our faithful kelpie hound Stella in the background enjoying her tea. smile.gif

 

Dai-Ichi-Kogaku&C14Sedan.png


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#48 Kokatha man

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 03:18 AM

Nothing that disappointed either Pat or myself out in the Mallee at Sedan these last few nights as far as the Dai-Ichi Kogaku was concerned...in fact its reputation as a fine example of 80mm f15 "old time" Japanese refractors was only enhanced with our simple viewing & imaging trials these last couple of nights. smile.gif

 

With the provisos that the Moon was only culminating at 44° & wasn't anywhere near its most photogenic - plus the fact that I make no claims whatsoever as a Lunar imager lol.gif I think the images at prime focus (1200mm) were quite respectable... wink.gif

 

Btw, none of the images were at 44° - on the first night using the main scope the Moon was at about 31° & on the 2nd for what was the entire disk/phase visible using the 40mm f/l 450mm sub-scope, it was only at 12°...not much above the horizon tbh! smile.gif

 

Q85_Moon_142330_L_030118-3XDrizz@100%Gam+LvlsQlty85%.png

 

Moon_143501_L_030118_Driz3@100%#1.png

 

 


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#49 Kokatha man

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 03:25 AM

Here's the image from the sub-scope: I was about to pack up this scope but thought I'd try an image through this little guider or sub-scope as it is called...simply because I could fit the Moon into the fov - I also happen to believe that its optics are pretty darn nice also...& at 12° above the horizon grabbed this image.

 

I didn't try to use the available barlows because the most appropriate ( the 2X Televue) was set up in the C14's regular imaging train, but I'll make sure that when we go out next time I have a spare 1.25" barlow for the Dai-Ichi exclusively...so that we can push the scope & image resolution... wink.gif

 

Moon_130227_L_040118@100%-SubScope.png


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#50 shredder1656

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 04:31 AM

Great job!  You need "make no claims".  Your work speaks for itself.  Very nice.  Very.




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