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Details of a Wireless EAA Setup

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#1 Rac19

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 06:23 AM

No pictures yet but my wireless, no cord wrap, remote control setup constists of:-

 

For auto alignment and subsequent GoTo operations.

 

Evolution 8 with SkyPortal WiFi Acessory in Access Point mode

iPad Mini.

StarSense Auto Align.

 

For image capture.

 

Windows Surface Pro 2 (1 USB 3.0 port) running FireCapture, mounted on the fork arm.

ZWO ASI1600MC, full sensor used to acquire target, ROI for image capture.

 

For remote manual slew and focus.

 

Rasberry Pi running VirtualHere, makes Pi USB ports available over WiFi

StarSense HC plugged into one of the Pi USB ports, for manual slewing only.

ShoeString FCUSB for remote focus control.

 

For electronic finder.

 

ZWO ASI120MC with a Canon 50 mm lens.

Vensmile mini computer running FireCapture.

 

 Remote Control (“Mission Control”)

 

A laptop, at my desk, running VirtualHere client, ASCOM Platform and ACSOMPad.

Logitech Gamepad for manual slewing and focus input.

TeamViewer, RDP or VNC to access the Surface Pro and Vensmile computers.

 

I am thinking that an Intel NUC could easily handle all of the on board computing tasks, but this is what I have managed to cobble together for now.

 

Power

 

Comsole 20 amp-hour battery set to 12 volts

A vehicle cigarette adapter with 3 cigarette plugs and 2 USB charging ports

Powers the Rasberry Pi and a Dew Heater (when required).

The Surface Pro and Vensmile have their own batteries but can also be powered from this battery if they run low.


Edited by Rac19, 12 December 2017 - 06:41 AM.

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#2 roelb

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 12:33 PM

No pictures yet but my wireless, no cord wrap, remote control setup constists of:-

 

For auto alignment and subsequent GoTo operations.

 

Evolution 8 with SkyPortal WiFi Acessory in Access Point mode

iPad Mini.

StarSense Auto Align.

 

For image capture.

 

Windows Surface Pro 2 (1 USB 3.0 port) running FireCapture, mounted on the fork arm.

ZWO ASI1600MC, full sensor used to acquire target, ROI for image capture.

 

For remote manual slew and focus.

 

Rasberry Pi running VirtualHere, makes Pi USB ports available over WiFi

StarSense HC plugged into one of the Pi USB ports, for manual slewing only.

ShoeString FCUSB for remote focus control.

 

For electronic finder.

 

ZWO ASI120MC with a Canon 50 mm lens.

Vensmile mini computer running FireCapture.

 

 Remote Control (“Mission Control”)

 

A laptop, at my desk, running VirtualHere client, ASCOM Platform and ACSOMPad.

Logitech Gamepad for manual slewing and focus input.

TeamViewer, RDP or VNC to access the Surface Pro and Vensmile computers.

 

I am thinking that an Intel NUC could easily handle all of the on board computing tasks, but this is what I have managed to cobble together for now.

 

Power

 

Comsole 20 amp-hour battery set to 12 volts

A vehicle cigarette adapter with 3 cigarette plugs and 2 USB charging ports

Powers the Rasberry Pi and a Dew Heater (when required).

The Surface Pro and Vensmile have their own batteries but can also be powered from this battery if they run low.

Looking forward to see some pictures...smile.gif



#3 Noah4x4

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 08:48 AM

Wow RAC19, that is some set up. 

 

I am still awaiting delivery of my Atik Horizon camera (so no pictures yet), but this is my plan for 2018;

 

1. Atik Horizon + Hyperstar to avoid autoguiding; avoid wedge; avoid polar align (e.g. just short exposures) etc,

(Have grappled with such complexities previously with my DSLR and want an easier route to EEA).

 

2. Control scope and alignment by SkySafari, Starsense and Celestron WiFi. Works great. I am not convinced this needs a laptop solution as I previously put my tablet down to look through an eyepiece. 

 

3. Control motor focus by Starlight MKIT20-WL wireless unit (has its own dedicated HC).

 

OK, very expensive and perhaps a sledgehammer to crack a nut. But being lazy, I wanted to find only 'out of the box' solutions. Cloudy Nights is full of excellent DIY solutions, but having invested so much already, why not...

 

4. Camera connected by USB3 to laptop A on small table by scope.

 

If this works with the Atik Horizon I too will probably get a Intel NUC box and affix to scope, but as I have a spare laptop with a (partly) broken screen it will suffice for now. Then....in (warm) 'Mission Control'......

 

5.  TeamViewer on laptop B to manage laptop A by 'remote desktop'.

      Android Galaxy A tablet to control Alignment and GoTo (see 2).

      Simply up/down focuser controller for step 3 (will develop its autofocus capabilities later).

      Coffee maker machine.

      Dyson heater (my 'office' is a converted garage/man-cave). 

      Running machine (unused, but I originally converted garage into a gym....foolhardy!).

 

I have had this very simple set up working with my 24Megapixel DSLR. What struck me most is that the images on both screens were of apparent  identical quality (if we ignore the broken corner of screen A) and there is no noticeable lag between mouse pointer movement between laptop A and laptop B. I think the secret here is avoid using an underpowered computer at the camera end if it is a data intensive camera (like Atik Horizon or ZWO AS1600).  Once I adopt a stick-computer it can be affixed to the mount (as in your set up).

 

My cables will be very limited. I use a short coiled (an AVX part) cable for Starsense camera to AUX1 to replace the original far too long supplied cable. I affix my HC cradle to mount arm so everything rotates above tripod. So apart from power cables I only have the short USB to camera to worry about. Still thinking about power in the field. My laptop has an internal batttery. My DSLR has its own internal battery (as does the Evolution) so it has not yet been a consideration. Will try running my Atik Horizon and MKIT20-Wl from my Tracer 12 v 8ah battery (which I bought for my SE4 as it's below CAA flight limits). I think it may have enough oomph. But will it also drive (say) a Intel NUC? That is the question I throw out to fellow CN'ers....


Edited by Noah4x4, 25 December 2017 - 09:11 AM.

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#4 Rac19

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 04:06 PM

 

Wow RAC19, that is some set up.

Well, I would like to simplify it, but these are the bits and pieces that I have to hand at the moment. Most notably an Intel NUC (or similar) could replace the three on-board computers. Having said that, the “electronic finder” seems to work well.

 

Atik Horizon + Hyperstar to avoid autoguiding; avoid wedge; avoid polar align (e.g. just short exposures) etc,

I see that this has a 4/3 sensor (the same as my ZWO ASI1600MC) and is cooled (my ZWO is not). It should be very a good performer.

 

Will try running my Atik Horizon and MKIT20-Wl from my Tracer 12 v 8ah battery (which I bought for my SE4 as it's below CAA flight limits). I think it may have enough oomph. But will it also drive (say) a Intel NUC? That is the question I throw out to fellow CN'ers....

The more the better as far as battery capacity is concenced, but I hadn’t thought about aviation restrictions. They in place to limit a very real danger of course. A quick look at the tech. specs for the NUC range, shows the power draw to be 7w to 50w which is 0.6 to 4 amps at 12 VDC. I would guess 1 - 2 amps in general use. The NUC can run on 12 VDC (the minimum allowed) by the way,



#5 Rac19

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 04:40 PM

 

I use a short coiled (an AVX part) cable for Starsense camera to AUX1 to replace the original far too long supplied cable. I affix my HC cradle to mount arm so everything rotates above tripod.

Yes, the original StarSense camera cable is much longer than it needs to be. It is good to konwctgartge coiled AVX AUX coiled cable will do the job. I may get one.

 

I normally attach the HC to the rotating part of the mount, I just didn’t do it for the photos. I am yet to find a really satisfactory way to do this. At the momemt I hook it onto a “bulldog” clip which can be seen in one of the images. The aim to to have no trailing cables at all.



#6 Noah4x4

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 05:34 PM

Konwctgargtge? How many Christmas sherbert's have you had RAC19? Merry Xmas to all CN'ers.

 

My HC cradle simply clips onto the vertical carry hand of the Evolution. This works with the 8" Celestron Evolution but not for the 9.25". It is the same HC for both, but the cradle clip differs because of the larger diameter tripod. 

 

How do you fix stuff to your mount casing? Adhesive Velcro? Straps?  

 

I am thinking of simply getting a strong circular plastic box and drilling a hole through the centre (and lid) so it slides onto the long thread; is then supported by leg spreader, and perhaps a larger washer and nut inside.  My thought is to have sufficient ventilation (neat slits in it) and then into that 'bucket ' shaped receptacle deposit my Tracer 8ah battery, Intel NUC computer etc. Then most cables lead into that 'hub, but of sufficient length to avoid cord wrap. Then because I am using Hyperstar and intend to return the Secondary mirror during storage I can neatly unclip the camera cables, then  drop the cables into the 'bucket' having disconnected only at the camera end. My thought is I must carry my equipment five yards fully assembled (one reason why I have abandoned the heavy 15lb wedge). By placing battery/computer stick etc under the centre of gravity and also not fouling the carry handles I have a feeling this might be easier to carry.


Edited by Noah4x4, 25 December 2017 - 05:40 PM.


#7 Rac19

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 05:51 PM

 

Konwctgargtge? How many Christmas sherbert's have you had RAC19?

Well spotted. The iPad spell checker sometimes auto corrects with total garbage for some reason. I usually spot any such wierdness but missed that one. For the record, it is Boxing Day morning here, no alcohol consumed before sending that post. I will be watching the Test Cricket in a couple of hours, even though it is a dead rubberwink.gif.

 

I have already used up all the real estate on the handle so I will need to find another way. There is a lot of Velcro on my mount these days. I have also made use of a couple of RAM mounts. It has started to look quite untidy though. The bucket idea sounds like a good one but I am on a mission to eliminate cord wrap at the momemt.


Edited by Rac19, 26 December 2017 - 12:14 AM.


#8 nic35

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 11:38 PM

Noah -

 

I use the scotch brand version of velcro - available on Amazon - look for Scotch® All-Weather Fasteners, 2 Sets of 1 Inch x 3 Inches, Strips, Clear (RFD7090)

 

Holds a lot of weight.  If you look at #661 above, all that gear is hung on a Talentcell Battery (similar to your battery) using the scotch fastener, and the battery is attached to the mount with the same material. Very stable. 

 

john



#9 Rac19

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 03:35 PM

 

No pictures yet but my wireless, no cord wrap, remote control setup constists of:-

 

For auto alignment and subsequent GoTo operations.

 

Evolution 8 with SkyPortal WiFi Acessory in Access Point mode

iPad Mini.

StarSense Auto Align.

 

For image capture.

 

Windows Surface Pro 2 (1 USB 3.0 port) running FireCapture, mounted on the fork arm.

ZWO ASI1600MC, full sensor used to acquire target, ROI for image capture.

 

For remote manual slew and focus.

 

Rasberry Pi running VirtualHere, makes Pi USB ports available over WiFi

StarSense HC plugged into one of the Pi USB ports, for manual slewing only.

ShoeString FCUSB for remote focus control.

 

For electronic finder.

 

ZWO ASI120MC with a Canon 50 mm lens.

Vensmile mini computer running FireCapture.

 

 Remote Control (“Mission Control”)

 

A laptop, at my desk, running VirtualHere client, ASCOM Platform and ACSOMPad.

Logitech Gamepad for manual slewing and focus input.

TeamViewer, RDP or VNC to access the Surface Pro and Vensmile computers.

 

I am thinking that an Intel NUC could easily handle all of the on board computing tasks, but this is what I have managed to cobble together for now.

 

Power

 

Comsole 20 amp-hour battery set to 12 volts

A vehicle cigarette adapter with 3 cigarette plugs and 2 USB charging ports

Powers the Rasberry Pi and a Dew Heater (when required).

The Surface Pro and Vensmile have their own batteries but can also be powered from this battery if they run low.

Finally, some images. Not as elegant and many of the other setups, but it works quite well. I have some cable management to sort out. One day, I may replace the Surface Pro, Vensmile and Raspberry Pi with an Intel NUC box.

 

EDIT: Changed comment regarding NUC to say that it wouid replace all computers.

 

We had clear skies last night, for the first time in weeks!!!

 

Because I was using SkySafari 6 for the first time in the real world, I had to calibrate the StarSense camera. The ASI120MC/50mm Canon “electronic finder scope” worked well here. The calibration numbers were very close to what I had been using for SktSafari 5. It’s a pity that you can’t simply type these numbers in. I requested this during the SS6 beta program but I don’t think that it was implemented.

 

What did I learn?

 

I positioned the Logitech game controller reciever (on a USB cable) roughly half way between my desk computer and the ’scope in the hope that I could use it both indoors and outdoors but that unsuccessful. The ‘scope and focus controller seemed to respond well enough but the focus motor kept running uncommanded. The was annoying, to say the least, and never happened with the Logitech reciever plugged directly into the computer during indoor testing. Fortunately this didn’t happen with slew commandssmile.gif.

 

I will have to make sure that the RACI is ready for outdoor use in the future, which it wasn’t last night although that might not matter so much now that the StarSense is calibrated.

 

I will also have to use the HC (or the iPad) for manual slewing outdoors and the wired focus controller box (when outdoors).

 

Apart from that, I was able to get in some full frame (16 MP), 100 frame captures of the Moon, in air-conditioned and mosquito free comfort. As I said, the “electronic finder scope” was quite successful. I had calibrated on Sirius and moved the recticle (on the “finder” live view) onto it. Subsequent GoTo commands to Sirius put the reticle dead on every time, (and in view for the main camera as it happens).

 

EDIT: I am really keen to use an Intel NUC (or similar) to replace the three onboard computers. It could run FireCapture (main camera), SharpCap (finder camera) and ASCOM or VirtualHere. All USB connections (main camera, finder camera, FCUSB, HC) would be to the NUC. If I gave up on using a gamepad, ASCOM could also run on the NUC, with no need for VirtualHere. The indoors PC wouid then run only TeamViewer to Access the NUC.


Edited by Rac19, 27 December 2017 - 04:33 PM.


#10 Rac19

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Posted 28 December 2017 - 01:47 AM

 

I positioned the Logitech game controller reciever (on a USB cable) roughly half way between my desk computer and the ’scope in the hope that I could use it both indoors and outdoors but that unsuccessful. The ‘scope and focus controller seemed to respond well enough but the focus motor kept running uncommanded. The was annoying, to say the least, and never happened with the Logitech reciever plugged directly into the computer during indoor testing. Fortunately this didn’t happen with slew.

As result of some indoor testing today, I have concluded that ASCOMPad was causing most of the grief. When I went back to NexRemote (with a gamepad) and FocusPal, both still via VirtualHere, everything seemed to be quite reliable. So it means that I can still use  gamepad for slewing but not for focus control (which will have to be FocusPal). I have switched from the Logitech 2.6 GHtz wireless gamepad to SteelSeries Bluetooth. This gives me the option of using a long range Bluetooth adapter, such as the LM540, which might let me use it indoors and outdoors.


Edited by Rac19, 28 December 2017 - 01:54 AM.


#11 Rac19

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 06:04 AM

No pictures yet but my wireless, no cord wrap, remote control setup constists of:-

 

For auto alignment and subsequent GoTo operations.

 

Evolution 8 with SkyPortal WiFi Acessory in Access Point mode

iPad Mini.

StarSense Auto Align.

 

For image capture.

 

Windows Surface Pro 2 (1 USB 3.0 port) running FireCapture, mounted on the fork arm.

ZWO ASI1600MC, full sensor used to acquire target, ROI for image capture.

 

For remote manual slew and focus.

 

Rasberry Pi running VirtualHere, makes Pi USB ports available over WiFi

StarSense HC plugged into one of the Pi USB ports, for manual slewing only.

ShoeString FCUSB for remote focus control.

 

For electronic finder.

 

ZWO ASI120MC with a Canon 50 mm lens.

Vensmile mini computer running FireCapture.

 

 Remote Control (“Mission Control”)

 

A laptop, at my desk, running VirtualHere client, ASCOM Platform and ACSOMPad.

Logitech Gamepad for manual slewing and focus input.

TeamViewer, RDP or VNC to access the Surface Pro and Vensmile computers.

 

I am thinking that an Intel NUC could easily handle all of the on board computing tasks, but this is what I have managed to cobble together for now.

 

Power

 

Comsole 20 amp-hour battery set to 12 volts

A vehicle cigarette adapter with 3 cigarette plugs and 2 USB charging ports

Powers the Rasberry Pi and a Dew Heater (when required).

The Surface Pro and Vensmile have their own batteries but can also be powered from this battery if they run low.

Well, I actually went out and purchased an Intel NUC today. It’s not the most powerful beast available, i3 CPU, 4 GB RAM, 250 GB SSD. Due to MORE cloudy weather, I have only been able to test it in the office so far. It seems to be capable of doing the job, although a more powerful CPU would not have hurt.

 

All four USB ports are in use, for the two cameras (ASI1600MC & ASI129MC), the StarSense HC and FCUSB. There is no need for a keyboard or mouse as the box runs “headless” and is accessed from a laptop using TeamViewer. I am not sure whether it was strictly necessary, but I have used a dummy HDMI plug to similute a screen plugged into the box.

 

I am using SharpCap with the ASI120MC (and a 50 mm Canon lens) as an electronic finder scope. If I allow it to run flat-out for live view, it uses 25% of CPU (processing the USB traffic). If I limit it to 4 FPS for live view, that falls to 10%.

 

For image capture I have the ASI1600MC and FireCapture. Left to run flat-out for live view, it uses 75% the CPU. Limiting live view to 8 FPS reduces this to a more reasonable 40% CPU.

 

When capturing full frame images, there is only a slight increase in CPU load and the SSD runs at about 50%. I haven’t tested ROI capture yet, but that should be less demanding.

 

Manual slewing and focus control are quite responsive. Now to try it in the real would.

 

EDIT: TeamViewer can be a CPU hog also, if you don’t watch it. If you have Full HD (1920 x 1080) and full colour, it can get up to 25% of CPU. Reducing the resolution to 1366 x 768 with less than full colour can reduce it to 10%.

 

Everything I am doing, live-view on 2 cameras and running TeamViewer, is potentially resource hungry so some semblance of commonsense seems appropriate. On the other hand you could just throw money and computing power at the problem. There is price to pay in battery drain with additional computing power of course.


Edited by Rac19, 02 January 2018 - 08:33 AM.


#12 Noah4x4

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 09:12 AM

Hi RAC19,

 

I think we can possible do the community a big favour here....

 

I am still awaiting delivery of my Atik Horizon + Hyperstar and am hence still trialling stuff with my Nikon D5200 24 megapixel DSLR in a fairly similar set up to yours except I am using two older laptops, with Laptop A (Windows 7) located near my telescope wirelessly controlled by Laptop B (Windows 10) using TeamViewer located in Mission Control (e.g. my warm office) over a 802.11ac wireless home network.

 

The latter seems to be vital as the older 802.11n wireless standard is vastly slower. Atik's Technical Support told me that a Raspberry Pi (which is normally used with Atik Air) might stutter with these more data intensive cameras as it's equipped only with the slower wireless standard. The Atik Horizon (or ZWO 1600) ideally demands USB3 and is far more data demanding than (say) the Atik Infinity camera. However, it does have the internal 256mb DDR III buffer. Begs the question are you testing with the similar buffered newer ZWO or the original unbuffered model? The buffer sounds like being an important component in this challenge?

 

I have just realised that my Laptop B has merely a Celeron N3050 processor (4GB DDR3 memory) and Laptop A has a stone age Celeron T3500. This set up is working fine with my DSLR which is remarkable as the slower Laptop A is doing all the seriously hard processing work directly connected to the camera. However, I am a little concerned that this might be a tad slow for the Atik Horizon (or ZWO AS1600). My intent was to try this when my camera arrives (hurry up Santa) with a USB3 cable directly connected to faster Laptop B before investing in a miniaturized NUC to replace laptop A at my scope. This would help me determine if I need merely a Celeron N3050 NUC or if I must invest in the more expensive Intel Core i3 NUC (as you have done). 

 

You say that the NUC i3 works fine with the more demanding cameras but add "not the most powerful beast" which one would agree in the context of perhaps it meeting modern gaming demands. But in another thread, I recall reading that core i3 was probably "overpowered" for this specific astrophotography task. Your thoughts?

 

My own next step is to try and assess if a cheaper Celeron N3050 NUC will suffice. My theory is that if my similar Laptop B works OK (e.g. in place of A) with the Atik Horizon; or better still if the even slower Celeron T3500 still works; that almost halves the cost of the required NUC, although I must confess I have been pondering if the i3 version of NUC is eminently sensible (but is it expensive overkill?)!

 

Hopefully there are also a few other CN'ers out there running a similar set up with an AS1600 (or Atik Horizon) with merely an NUC Celeron N3500 (4GB DDR) to enhance our observations. Maybe somebody has possibly succeeded with an Atom based NUC/stick processor? I do stress we are looking for success only with these big chip/large pixel count CMOS cameras and not with less demanding smaller sensor CCDs. We know less demanding cameras are fine with lesser computing power. 


Edited by Noah4x4, 02 January 2018 - 09:19 AM.


#13 Rac19

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 02:27 PM

 

 

Telescope control
I use a StarSense Auto-align controlled using SkySafari on a Samsung Galaxy A Android tablet. This is 'Direct' connected via Celestron WiFi using a SkyPortal external wireless WiFi device. I gave up with my Evolution's Gen1 internal WiFi, but more recent Evolution mounts are fine. I think it helps the wider 'wireless' load that I am here using 'Direct' mode and for other stuff 'Access' mode.

Noah, how is the WiFi module plugged in? The seems be some sort of device between it and the aux port but I can’t quite see what it is.

 

I am setting up something similar which I will post an image of soon. I have the 2 Core i3 rather than the 4 Core i5 that you have used, All 4 USB ports are occupied, 2 cameras (electronic finder scope and image capture), focus control and the HC (for NexRemote). There also a “50 Ah” battery, effectively 10 Ah at 19 Volts.



#14 Noah4x4

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 09:08 AM

 

 

 

Telescope control
I use a StarSense Auto-align controlled using SkySafari on a Samsung Galaxy A Android tablet. This is 'Direct' connected via Celestron WiFi using a SkyPortal external wireless WiFi device. I gave up with my Evolution's Gen1 internal WiFi, but more recent Evolution mounts are fine. I think it helps the wider 'wireless' load that I am here using 'Direct' mode and for other stuff 'Access' mode.

Noah, how is the WiFi module plugged in? The seems be some sort of device between it and the aux port but I can’t quite see what it is.

 

I am setting up something similar which I will post an image of soon. I have the 2 Core i3 rather than the 4 Core i5 that you have used, All 4 USB ports are occupied, 2 cameras (electronic finder scope and image capture), focus control and the HC (for NexRemote). There also a “50 Ah” battery, effectively 10 Ah at 19 Volts.

 

Hi Rac19,

 

This is a bit of hangover from my days with a wedge where cables kept snagging on it! We are talking about a feature in the image in my post at https://www.cloudyni...etup/?p=8326152

 

I plug the StarSense camera into the Evolution's mount AUX1 using a short coiled cable (which is an AVX mount part!). Then a Celestron AUX Splitter into AUX2. The StarSense HC and WiFi module are then BOTH plugged into that. This extra 'Splitter' offers the benefit of extending the effective Hand Controller cable length by about 18 inches and also keeps the WiFi dongle away from fouling anything, as by using AUX 1 and AUX2 then everything can rotate around the mount. I similarly like the way you have affixed the MaxOak battery (what fixing is that?).

 

The other device you can see in my image attached to the tripod leg is my redundant GPS gizmo (not needed with Tablet/SkySafari). So ignore that.

 

I still need to add the Atik Horizon Camera and Hyperstar to complete my all wireless EAA set up, but its working superbly with my 24 Megapixel DSLR. Whilst my laptop in Mission Control is merely 1366 x 768, I have plugged a Full HD monitor into its HDMI port. Even over TeamViewer the images are stunning. See my post at https://www.cloudyni...mera/?p=8330262

 

A further bit of information. You do need a full TeamViewer license to operate our type of set-up using the <accept LAN exclusive> mode. I am not paying £31 per month for the privilege of 'LAN exclusivity' when mere <Accept LAN>  is working OK. However, an IT knowledgeable pal of mine has suggested that Microsoft Remote Desktop should be fine over a LAN so I next intend to explore that (but TeamViewer will suffice for now).


Edited by Noah4x4, 11 January 2018 - 09:18 AM.


#15 roelb

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 05:55 PM

My contribution: "Cordwrap Free" EAA setup without an existing WiFi connection: https://www.cloudyni...ifi-connection/



#16 Noah4x4

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 07:45 PM

How did we get here? Looks like we have fallen down a Black Hole in the centre of 'post a pic of your EAA set up? I jest...

 

I notice Roelb is using the 12v output port of a MaxOak 50aH to power his mini - computer, whilst RAC19 is using the MaxOak 20v port to power his 19v NUC. But Intel is telling me in its support forum that the rating for the NUC is strictly 12v to 19v, and 20v should not be used. I can understand their caution. However, surely there is some + or - tolerance? Is + 5% (20v instead of 19v) material to an NUC? 

 

Is anybody else running an NUC at 20v battery power? If I use the 12v output what will be the consequence?



#17 Rac19

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 10:37 PM

I am testing the NUC on 12 Volts today. 2.5 hours in, it looks good and seems like it might go for 7 or 8 hours with the NUC running at 55% CPU supporting the ASI120MC and ASI1600MS in live view (under SharpCap and FireCapture respectively) and WiFi of course.

 

Below is page 53 of the detailed techical manual for the NUC7i5  (from Intel), which shows a voltage tolerance of +/- 10%. I interpret this to mean 10.8 Volts to 21.9 Volts.

 

Ultimately, each of us has to make our choice and live with any consequences. At this stage, I think that I will use 19 Volts normally and consider running the NUC on 12 Volts, if I need to use a dew heater

 

 

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Edited by Rac19, 12 January 2018 - 10:41 PM.


#18 Rac19

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 03:47 AM

After 8 hours at 12 Volts the NUC was still running. The battery had been displaying 25% remaining for some time so I shut the NUC down, 8 hours is good enough for me.

 

 

I am testing the NUC on 12 Volts today. 2.5 hours in, it looks good and seems like it might go for 7 or 8 hours with the NUC running at 55% CPU supporting the ASI120MC and ASI1600MS in live view (under SharpCap and FireCapture respectively) and WiFi of course.


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#19 roelb

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 06:32 PM

How did we get here? Looks like we have fallen down a Black Hole in the centre of 'post a pic of your EAA set up? I jest...

 

I notice Roelb is using the 12v output port of a MaxOak 50aH to power his mini - computer, whilst RAC19 is using the MaxOak 20v port to power his 19v NUC. But Intel is telling me in its support forum that the rating for the NUC is strictly 12v to 19v, and 20v should not be used. I can understand their caution. However, surely there is some + or - tolerance? Is + 5% (20v instead of 19v) material to an NUC? 

 

Is anybody else running an NUC at 20v battery power? If I use the 12v output what will be the consequence?

What is the power adapter rating?



#20 Rac19

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 07:27 PM

 

What is the power adapter rating?

The power adapter is 19 volts, actually 19.6 volts (open circuit) when I measured it.  This seemed as good a reason as any to use the 19 volt for the NUC but, as I discovered yesterday, it seems just as happy running from the 12 volt output, which is after all within specification.

 

When we get to winter, later, later this year, I will want to use the dew heater which is 12 volts. I was going to use the 19 volts for the NUC and the 12 volts for the dew heater but the MaxOak user guide says not to use both of them simultaneously. I think that it would be OK and I have asked their tech support to clarify (no response a week later). If I continue to have doubts I may run the both NUC and the dew heater from the 12 volt output, Then again I might just give it a try and watch out for smokeundecided.gif.



#21 Noah4x4

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 03:03 AM

I ordered my MaxOak K2 50 aH via Amazon. The manufacturer has reassuringly emailed me  to ask for make, model of my "laptop" to check compatibility. I have had no further reply. 

 

Interestingly, on AliExpress the narrative suggests it has a a 19v/12v/5v outputs. (https://m.aliexpress...t896fr#autostay ) but the image shows a 20v label on he device

 

But if the NUC runs fine off the 12v output then solved.


Edited by Noah4x4, 14 January 2018 - 03:05 AM.


#22 Rac19

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 04:36 AM

 

Interestingly, on AliExpress the narrative suggests it has a a 19v/12v/5v

The 5V refers to the USB ports I think.



#23 roelb

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 07:32 PM

 

 

Interestingly, on AliExpress the narrative suggests it has a a 19v/12v/5v

The 5V refers to the USB ports I think.

 

correct



#24 Noah4x4

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 04:30 AM

I have now been contacted by KayoMaxstar the supplier of the Maxstar K2 50ah charger/battery. It is unable to confirm that its MaxOak K2 power bank is compatible with the Intel NUC.  I reckon that if the manufacturer won't confirm this there is only one wise step! Cancel my order.

 

Intel Support (via its forum) is saying  that the acceptable voltage range for my Core-i5 NUC is strictly 12v to 19v (no variance, albeit the technical specification might possibly suggest + or - 10%). Any doubt here relates to the 20V output of the Maxstar K2 (the Intel NUC requires a maxiumum of 19V). It has been suggested by others in the Intel Support Forum that the only safe way to use this Maxstar's 20V output is to install into a DC-DC adapter that will convert its output into 19v. See http://www.mini-box.com/DCDC-NUC.

 

To be fair, RAC19 was running at 20V without mishap and has since had his NUC running at 12V for some hours without problems, but Intel also say that potential damage can occur if less than 11.6v.

 

This might be over caution, but I have hence decided to cancel my order (via Amazon) and will seek a different unit that is certain to provide a strict 19V (+ additional 12 V and 5 v outputs for my other devices).


Edited by Noah4x4, 15 January 2018 - 10:35 AM.


#25 Rac19

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 05:18 AM

 

To be fair, RAC19 was running at 20V without mishap and has since had his NUC running at 12V for some hours without problems, but Intel also say that potential damage can occur if less than 11.6v.

I just checked no load voltages my multimeter.

 

NUC power adapter 19.36 Volts

MaxOak K2 “20 Volt” output 19.27 Volts

MaxOak K2 “12 Volt” output 12.07 Volts

 

These would all be a little lower with a load connected but I would need  a break-out-box to get measurements under load, which I might try to do.

 

As always, anyone not prepared to a risk, should stay strictly with the manufacturers advice. Personally, I am happy to use the MaxOak battery on either “12 Volts” or “20 Volts” but I would not want induce anyone else to take a risk that they are not prepared to live with.


Edited by Rac19, 15 January 2018 - 05:59 AM.

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