1392 replies to this topic

[vidrazor]

Third time was the charm; I went back out with charged batteries and the skies were clear. Tried different exposure times and found that I could reliably get about a minute without trails at 200mm. Better polar alignment would surely help here; I was just putting Polaris in the center which isn't quite correct.

Spent a lot of time fussing with my intervalometer; I haven't used it in a while and I had to remember its quirks (like the interval between shots starting from the beginning of an exposure, not the end of one).

Ended up getting 17 1' subs of Andromeda before I called time and went home. I won't post the result here as it's nothing noteworthy, but it's encouraging.

Hey, I've noticed the screws for Alt/az adjustment are both a bit sticky and a bit rattly when loosened, makes it hard to do really fine adjustments. I'm not shelling out $200 for WO's base (especially since a redesign has reputedly made it difficult/impossible to switch between low and high latitude configs) but has anyone gotten good results sticking some white grease or something on the threads to smooth things out?

In order to properly polar align, use an app like PolarisView on Android or Polar Scope Align Pro on IOS. These apps will show you where to place Polaris in the polar scope's graticule. Make sure your rig is level as well.

 

RTFM on the intervalometer.

 

The best way to make adjustments with the stock alt-az mount is to have it tightened down to near lock on both azimuth and altitude, but you can still make adjustments. This way it's easier to compensate for the backlash, because the backlash travel won't be so far when you tighten down, and you can guesstimate where you need to be so when you tighten down fully, Polaris will be where the polar app is telling you to place it on the graticule.
 

[xploeris]

RTFM on the intervalometer.

 

They're all cheap Chinese junk, they don't have proper manuals   I got it figured out eventually.

[kaz2]

Some help please on a slipping reticle & a hardened/ perished plastic reticle holder. I found that gradually (over about the last 6 months) the reticle was going out of alignment on my SGPro. On opening the back of the mount, it seems that the reticle holder is damaged & was the reason for the reticle gradually going out of alignment & rotating. I have tried contacting iOptron but haven't heard back other than generic responses. Could someone advise if there are any suppliers who can supply a reticle holder to the UK? TIA.

Edited by kaz2, 29 August 2022 - 02:55 PM.

[ampsu]

So... Is it usual for polar scope to be inverted in relation to RA axis? I mean I can only see illumination when I mount counterweight bracket long side up (which messes up the gravity). I did find that PDF (http://www.ioptron.u...opeRotating.pdf) to rotate it independently but that whole procedure is quite absurd... Dont they any QA? Might as well return it

[vidrazor]

So... Is it usual for polar scope to be inverted in relation to RA axis? I mean I can only see illumination when I mount counterweight bracket long side up (which messes up the gravity). I did find that PDF (http://www.ioptron.u...opeRotating.pdf) to rotate it independently but that whole procedure is quite absurd... Dont they any QA? Might as well return it

I simply invert the position of the counterweight. It makes adjustment of the stock DEC adjustment difficult in that it can hit the locking screw for the DEC mounting bracket, but the advantages are that the polar scope in the right orientation, you don't upset polar adjustment rotating it back (has happened to me), and you have a slight extension for the counterweight if need be. I added an Arca mount and pan head for spacers and Vixen bracket so I could have smooth rotation of the DEC axis while maintaining a vixen mount. A little convoluted, but works nicely.
 

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Edited by vidrazor, 18 September 2022 - 07:17 PM.

[vidrazor]

Some help please on a slipping reticle & a hardened/ perished plastic reticle holder. I found that gradually (over about the last 6 months) the reticle was going out of alignment on my SGPro. On opening the back of the mount, it seems that the reticle holder is damaged & was the reason for the reticle gradually going out of alignment & rotating. I have tried contacting iOptron but haven't heard back other than generic responses. Could someone advise if there are any suppliers who can supply a reticle holder to the UK? TIA.

I would send it back to iOptron for repair.
 

[kaz2]

I would send it back to iOptron for repair.
 

Thank you for your response. I did manage to contact iOptron in the end and they do not have the plastic reticle holders any more - they changed the design to a more robust one in the newer ones so they would have to change the scope and the reticle holder. The cost of transport to the US & back, the parts & the labour add up to just under half of what I paid for it (new). They (John in Tech Support) kindly opened their junked Skyguider Pros and found a reticle holder that matched but without the retaining ring which they sent to me - I have replaced it and re-calibrated but haven't been able to test because of cloud (well it is the UK after all). Incidentally may I ask what Nikon lens is on the camera in the image of the Skyguider Pro in your response to the post regarding rotating the position of the bracket?

[ampsu]

Is there a way to check PA after like 1 hour? This scope design is so bad cuz it isnt lit all the time, only when RA is lined up. Only way is to unlock RA, swing it up again, check PA, reposition frame?

[ecuador]

Is there a way to check PA after like 1 hour? This scope design is so bad cuz it isnt lit all the time, only when RA is lined up. Only way is to unlock RA, swing it up again, check PA, reposition frame?

Are you saying the polar scope is not illuminated when not at zero position, or is the view blocked? If it's not illuminated, you can go old-school and use a small red light at an angle shining through the back. My old SkyWatcher, 20 years ago, did not have illumination, but I managed that way. Of course that was the classic German Equatorial design so the polar scope was completely blocked unless your DEC was at home position - there was no solution for that

[vidrazor]

Is there a way to check PA after like 1 hour? This scope design is so bad cuz it isnt lit all the time, only when RA is lined up. Only way is to unlock RA, swing it up again, check PA, reposition frame?

If you invert the Dec arm, like you see in the pic I posted above, the scope will be "upright" when you're doing polar alignment. It's not a big deal.

[xploeris]

If you have a red flashlight/headlamp, or indeed any light, you can shine it into the scope objective to view the reticle. It's a pain to do but it works. With some time, parts, and craft, you could probably rig an external light with an LED that would clip on or otherwise attach somehow so you don't have to hold it with one hand while you try to fiddle with the mount.

If you have even more craft, there must be a way to rewire the scope to illuminate all the time...

[Astrotographer]

Given all the issues I read about folks getting a good PA I can't help but wonder if rather than spending the time trying to get PA with the stock setup that it would be better investing in the iPolar. I have it and it makes set up a <5 minute process. Additionally it makes checking PA later stupid simple. I tried twice with the original setup and could never get a good PA. ordered the iPolar.

Edited by Astrotographer, 01 December 2022 - 04:06 PM.

[vidrazor]

Given all the issues I read about folks getting a good PA I can't help but wonder if rather than spending the time trying to get PA with the stock setup that it would be better investing in the iPolar. I have it and it makes set up a <5 minute process. Additionally it makes checking PA later stupid simple. I tried twice with the original setup and could never get a good PA. ordered the iPolar.

The problem with iPolar is that it needs to go in where the polar scope normally goes, so if down the line you get another mount, from another manufacturer, you can't bring iPolar along for the ride. Better to use mount agnostic tools like the polar alignment tools in NINA or Ekos, or use the polar alignment tools in an app like Astro Photography Tool or Sharpcap.

[T~Stew]

Given all the issues I read about folks getting a good PA I can't help but wonder if rather than spending the time trying to get PA with the stock setup that it would be better investing in the iPolar. I have it and it makes set up a <5 minute process. Additionally it makes checking PA later stupid simple. I tried twice with the original setup and could never get a good PA. ordered the iPolar.

Any of the software based polar alignment should yield a better alignment and likely quicker than visual, can't say I've spent much more than 5 minutes usually. iPolar probably the same, just letting you know there is lots of choices. The next thing is how good you are fine tuning those knobs, that may determine the time it takes somewhat. And the stock wedge isn't necessarily all that great. Then again my William Optics base has developed some slop in the azimuth adjuster, need to check that the pin is in there tight or something, keep forgetting to take a look.

Edited by T~Stew, 05 December 2022 - 12:46 AM.

[mkupadhya]

I am looking for just the center piece and the counterweight for this setup.  I already have the iOptron polar mount and the tripod.  Does anyone where I can get those?

[gonkulator]

I have one question at the moment, that I haven't found the answer to, except one opinion somewhere (I forgot where): How much load can you put on the SGP without a CW, while still maintaining reasonable accuracy (and without guiding), and assuming the load is as centered as possible? I ask since I would like to take wide angle shots with context while backpacking. I hope the answer is four pounds, since that is what I would like to use.  If not, then I will have to decide to either take a lighter weight camera and lens, or select a different mount, if one exists, for these preferences. Thanks. By the way, I am really impressed with the shots on this thread.

[hughesthompson]

I have one question at the moment, that I haven't found the answer to, except one opinion somewhere (I forgot where): How much load can you put on the SGP without a CW, while still maintaining reasonable accuracy (and without guiding), and assuming the load is as centered as possible? I ask since I would like to take wide angle shots with context while backpacking. I hope the answer is four pounds, since that is what I would like to use.  If not, then I will have to decide to either take a lighter weight camera and lens, or select a different mount, if one exists, for these preferences. Thanks. By the way, I am really impressed with the shots on this thread.

​The manual says the camera mount block with a ball head is: "For a light payload (less than 1.5kg or 3.3lbs, including lens)".

Edited by hughesthompson, 26 March 2024 - 04:11 PM.

[gonkulator]

​The manual says the camera mount block with a ball head is: "For a light payload (less than 1.5kg or 3.3lbs, including lens)".

Sorry, I didn't think to look in the manual. Thanks for that.