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What's on the porch today?

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#51 deSitter

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 01:41 PM

I did find one, I don't know where she keeps all this stuff.

This one is made by TAMIYA and has clip-on interchangeable lens of different power.

These are far superior to reading glasses, I should buy one for myself.  

 

attachicon.gif IMG_8445.jpg

That is a Soviet era cell phone!

 

-drl


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#52 deSitter

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 01:43 PM

I buy readers @ the dollar store by the truck load. For small stuff I put one pair over another to increase magnification. I wasn't getting anywhere with a few tiny slotted screwdrivers in the recessed cell. I assumed they were slotted as every other fastener on this telescope seems to be. I wanted to be sure before damaging the heads beyond all recognition

If you have any astigmatism get prescription readers - nothing has more improved my life in recent years! :) (Sad I know) Plus they are great for reading at night with wide open pupils and a red flashlight. My regular readers are not good in the dark because they do nothing for my warped eyeballs.

 

-drl



#53 TOM KIEHL

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 02:00 PM

Nice glasses! 

 

I confirmed that the tiny screws in the recesses of the cell are slotted. I still don't get any purchase using the 2mm screwdriver. Could it be that the blade is too thick for the screw slots? If someone has this common screwdriver kit and has a little Fecker handy would you please see if this screwdriver fits and works? 

 

I also assume the screws are nice soft brass which makes me think buggering them up will be quite easy with the wrong tools.

 

Is there a good reason not to leave the mirror in the cell and soak it for cleaning as is? I'd prefer to do things right but life left is getting short!

Maybe it's got something to do with the brand name of the screwdrivers you are using rofl2.gif  



#54 Stargoat

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 06:48 PM

My eyesight, well I'm losing it daily so even with a bright light and a jewelers loupe I can't tell if the six recessed screws are flat or allen. I tried with a tiny flat screwdriver without success. Anyone remember what tool pulls these out?

Hey strdst and others who mentioned about needing brighter lighting to see such small details whatever they may be on our scopes or anything for that matter. Others who also mentioned astigmatism issues etc.

 

Seriously I would make an appointment to see your eye doctor for a good check up. When my cataracts really started to mess with my eye sight, things did become cloudy over time. But that did not bother me the most to be honest and the gradual yellowing again not greatly since it was so gradual. But what bothered me the most was from the astigmatism that was brought on as the cataracts grew. I had been around -0.5D astigmatism in my good eye for several years, but did not really need for telescope viewing at low powers. But the last year or so, my visual acuity went south as the astigmatism had increased up way up to -1.5D or -1.75D. By that time none of my cheaters or prescription glasses were doing any good.

 

Worth getting a look at to see if anything else is going on with your eyes even if not cataracts. Just saying.


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#55 strdst

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 11:45 PM

Maybe it's got something to do with the brand name of the screwdrivers you are using rofl2.gif  

That isn't helping Tom. 


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#56 Joe Cepleur

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 06:53 AM

Stardust, DavidG says you must insulate between the mirror and the ton of lead in the cell, or thou shalt never reach thermal equilibrium. Sounds as though even if it were possible to clean the mirror in the cell, it would need to be removed anyway, to install the insulation.

#57 strdst

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 12:44 PM

Good point Joe. I would also prefer the mirror was removable in the event it needs re-aluminizing. If I successfully wash the mirror with the retainer ring still in place I might trap enough water to start the oxidation process. This is Oregon after  all , and like they say, "in the summertime we don't tan here, we rust". 

 

I hope an owner (who agrees that reaching and turning out these retainer ring screws is easy) would please post a photo of the screwdriver that they used. Because the screws are deeply recessed I can't see what is going on when I try to gently turn them. It feels like the screwdriver blade isn't finding the slot. If I damage the slots then removing the mirror becomes forever unlikely. 

 

In the meantime I'll probably use a flat file and try to change the thickness and width of the screwdriver I have and see if I can get something moving. I suppose it shows I'm becoming a bit impatient. 



#58 mikerepp

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 12:51 PM

The screws may be Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) which has a different slot width.



#59 strdst

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 01:59 PM

Hi Mike,

 

Possibly. I would assume Fecker would have used SAE but I assume too much as you will see...

 

I was curious why of the 6 recessed screws there was rust around every other one. I was pretty sure I saw slotted brass screw heads when I ramped up the magnification wearing 2 pairs of readers. But why rust on the cell by some screw holes and not around others? Brass vs. steel? Early on I had asked (before I could see them clearly) if I was removing slotted or Allen head screws. 

 

Turns out both. The 3 with a bit of rust are Allen, the other 3 are slotted brass! 

 

Next question: If I add a drop of WD -40 or PB-Blaster to the recessed holes, and for any reason it finds it's way to the front of the mirror, will it harm the coating?

 

BTW for you younger folks that's a dime not a silver dollar! lol.gif

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Edited by strdst, 15 March 2018 - 02:02 PM.

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#60 clamchip

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 07:24 PM

Where are those set screws, I don't remember mine having them.

I would try not to get any oil on the mirrors aluminized surface, it

probably won't hurt the surface but it will make cleaning the mirror

more difficult than necessary.

I like distilled water with a splash of Isopropyl Alcohol and a drop 

of Dawn dish soap and a hand full of cotton balls.

Let the mirror soak first in plain distilled water reflective surface down

but tilted so you don't have a air pocket in the concave surface.

The soak will loosen crud and it will fall away.

Then I take the mirror and hit the face with a flood of room temp water

from the kitchen facet.

Take your solution with the cotton balls soaking in it, drag a cotton ball

across and don't go across with it again drop it and use another until

the whole face has been dragged. 

I like to then flood rinse the surface and rest the mirror on edge to drain

anything remaining, pat dry with a well used but clean cotton dish towel.

If anything is remaining like a finger print or oil you can carefully use 

straight Iso and your cotton dish towel. If that doesn't do it straight

Acetone.

 

Robert



#61 telesonic

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 08:33 PM

This little guy followed me home today:

 

 

 

I think it counts... it was on the porch when I took the picture. grin.gif And it's classic.

 

Just the OTA and finder (with non-crosshair .965 ep of unknown focal length)

The objective has one very small 1/8th inch chip on the edge near the spacer... I was going to try to get a pic of it, but packed the scope away for now.

 

Now I need to figure out rings / dovetail, since this will most likely need to ride on the Super Polaris.... as it's the only mount with long enough legs. shocked.gif

Oh, and decide what do do about eyepieces...  probably go with a hybrid diagonal for 1.25 use, since I have a whopping total of 2 ep's in .965. (both in finder scopes)

 

 

Previous owner wasn't using it, and needed some space in his scope room... so it was gifted to me.

First classic refractor I've owned, very cool!

T

 

 

 


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#62 Bomber Bob

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 08:40 PM

probably go with a hybrid diagonal for 1.25 use, since I have a whopping total of 2 ep's in .965. (both in finder scopes)

 

NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOO!   PM ol' BB -- I got some proper .965" eyepieces for your Towa 339.  Do you have a diagonal?


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#63 telesonic

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 08:48 PM

probably go with a hybrid diagonal for 1.25 use, since I have a whopping total of 2 ep's in .965. (both in finder scopes)

 

NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOO!   PM ol' BB -- I got some proper .965" eyepieces for your Towa 339.  Do you have a diagonal?

JW,

 

I do have a .965 diagonal, but it's also in use in my C8 finder (old Vixen model on the C8)

But, I'm only using one scope at a time.... so I could borrow it off that. lol.gif

 

Been reading up on the Towa 339 (this one is a Sears Circle T, same I guess)

 

PM sent 

T


Edited by telesonic, 15 March 2018 - 08:52 PM.


#64 Bomber Bob

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 08:53 PM

Been reading up on the Towa 339 (this one is a Sears Circle T, same I guess)

 

It is.  I used mine for about 10 years, and got great views from it.  Current Hybrid Diagonals vary a lot in quality.  Would be a shame to get a bad first impression caused by an accessory.


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#65 telesonic

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 09:02 PM

I hand't given thought to the quality of modern hybrid diag's... makes sense though.

 

The previous owner has said that the scope has great optics despite the small chip so I trust that, he's been at it decades longer than myself. I'm pretty stoked at using this scope though, so I probably jumped the gun on thinking of 1.25" stuff... and many thanks for correcting me.


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#66 strdst

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 10:49 PM

Where are those set screws, I don't remember mine having them.

 

 

They hold in a mirror retainer ring

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#67 clamchip

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 12:01 AM

I know I took mine apart because I noted the following information from the back of the mirror:

1 9 59 Serial #472

#25539

021-1008 

The set screws have got to be loosened to remove the retaining ring.

When you put it back together, make sure the retainer is allowing the mirror to rattle a little in the cell.

Go ahead and leave the push screws backed out, tighten the pull screws fully and snug down the

push screws, I have a feeling the collimation will be fine or very close.

 

Robert


Edited by actionhac, 16 March 2018 - 12:03 AM.


#68 strdst

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 12:52 AM

My communications skills must be even worse than I think they are!

 

I know, I know, I know the screws in the retainer ring need to be removed before the retainer ring can be unscrewed. I  get that. What I want to to know is what tools were used by others (you) without stripping out the slots! This is not easy with my tools, but apparently was easy for others. What did you use to free the mirror? I'll buy tools.

 

I'll be taking a truckload of frustrating stuff to the dump on Saturday...just sayin' lol.gif


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#69 clamchip

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 09:39 AM

I can remove mine and take a look.

For some reason I don't think the retaining ring unscrews, I think it just drops in and the

set screws hold it in.

I'm surprised I can't remember any of this procedure, its not like it was 1962 when I did it

it was just a few years ago.

I clearly remember slipping and falling down through the jungle Jim at school 2nd grade

and catching my chin on one of the bars and putting a tooth through my lip.

I remember throwing a pine cone at a cute girl to get her attention and hit her in the eye

I got swats for that.

I remember laughing so hard I peed my paints and I was wearing white jeans and the 

dirt from the playground stuck to the huge wet spot, my mom had to bring a change of

clothes to school.

 

Robert  



#70 DAVIDG

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 10:23 AM

I can remove mine and take a look.

For some reason I don't think the retaining ring unscrews, I think it just drops in and the

set screws hold it in.

I'm surprised I can't remember any of this procedure, its not like it was 1962 when I did it

it was just a few years ago.

I clearly remember slipping and falling down through the jungle Jim at school 2nd grade

and catching my chin on one of the bars and putting a tooth through my lip.

I remember throwing a pine cone at a cute girl to get her attention and hit her in the eye

I got swats for that.

I remember laughing so hard I peed my paints and I was wearing white jeans and the 

dirt from the playground stuck to the huge wet spot, my mom had to bring a change of

clothes to school.

 

Robert  

 Correct, the retainer ring just pulls straight out when the screws on the side are removed so the retainer ring  is not threaded.

 

                  - Dave  



#71 clamchip

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 11:11 AM

My cell from #472 has 3 3/64" Allen set screws pushing on the retainer ring, not threading into the

retainer ring, just pushing on it so the ring is adjustable to give the mirror play, room, just like a refractor

lens has some room.

What looks like rust is actually paint to prevent the set screws from falling out, or rusting, or moving? but

mine move quite easily.

The retainer ring has 3 felt pads 120 apart where it contacts the mirror, and these are just barely touching

the mirror if at all.

I have an idea Keith, try to just loosen the 3 Allen set screws and see if it releases your retainer.

Why you have the 3 extra set screws, I'm not sure at this stage, but they may be for some other purpose

possibly centering the mirror in the cell?, they look farther down from the edge of the cell?

The Allen wrench for my set screws is 3/64" inch.

Robert 

 

IMG_8450.jpg


Edited by actionhac, 16 March 2018 - 11:20 AM.

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#72 clamchip

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 11:18 AM

The more I look at your photo of the hole next to the dime I think what I see

is the gap between the retainer ring and the mirror, and no set screw in the

hole? it could easily be mistaken for a slotted brass set screw.

 

Robert



#73 Chuck Hards

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 11:37 AM

Yesterday I found a box on the porch from McMaster-Carr.  500 small wood screws for tripod refurbs, including 100 in brass.  :)

 

Enough for about 10 tripods.


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#74 strdst

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 01:25 PM

My cell from #472 has 3 3/64" Allen set screws pushing on the retainer ring, not threading into the

retainer ring, just pushing on it so the ring is adjustable to give the mirror play, room, just like a refractor

lens has some room.

What looks like rust is actually paint to prevent the set screws from falling out, or rusting, or moving? but

mine move quite easily.

The retainer ring has 3 felt pads 120 apart where it contacts the mirror, and these are just barely touching

the mirror if at all.

I have an idea Keith, try to just loosen the 3 Allen set screws and see if it releases your retainer.

Why you have the 3 extra set screws, I'm not sure at this stage, but they may be for some other purpose

possibly centering the mirror in the cell?, they look farther down from the edge of the cell?

The Allen wrench for my set screws is 3/64" inch.

Robert 

 

attachicon.gif IMG_8450.jpg

Thank you David and Robert!!! That's what I needed. I did mis speak as I meant to say remove the retainer not unscrew the retainer in my last post. Having the mirror staring at me from the dining room table is making me screwy!

 

I'll get an Allen wrench set today. I think you're right that the 3 other holes may be without screws in them. Sure looks like a slot, and I was expecting it to be, so I guess it became a slot. I'm glad of your ability to see clearly from 300 miles away something that I couldn't see that was right in my hands. 

 

Once the retainer is removed, how would you handle removing the mirror from that weighted cell without risking clams?



#75 clamchip

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 03:11 PM

I wonder if it makes sense to leave the retainer and mirror in place, invert the

cell, place it on the counter top or bench and lift the cell straight up and away.

Maybe Dave has a idea.

Another idea would be to go ahead and remove the retainer and use 2 pieces

of blue tape struck near the edge of the mirror 180 deg apart and use the tape

as lifting handles, and both hands, and carefully evenly lift the mirror from the cell.

 

Robert




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