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Today's Full Disc Solarmax 60 (single stack mode) 3/19/2018

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#1 TerryWood

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Posted 19 March 2018 - 07:15 PM

This was the result of two captures (one for surface and one for proms) taken at 5:30 this afternoon. I used "quick capture" in Sharpcap and stacked about 300 frames for each (somewhere in that neighborhood). Seeing was about average, maybe worse at times. Not a whole lot to see either. I tried in double stack mode, but have not been able to achieve good detail across the entire disc. So, I went back to single stack for this one.

 

Camera was a ZWO 174MM with a barlow lens in it's nosepiece, shooting at reduced camera chip size (1216 x 1216) which only resulted in 29 frames per second in the USB2 port. Still haven't been able to get the USB3 ports to play along and get with the program. Processed in Autostakkert, Registax, Adobe Lightroom, and Gimp. I really can't tell if the colors are right and whether or not it looks washed out due to my laptop's computer screen. Never seems to be the same when I post, so I might have to tweek this and re-post later if it looks weird.

 

Still have a lot to learn about imaging, but like to keep it simple and at my own pace. I'll get there eventually. Thanks for looking!

 

This will look clearer when opened.

 

V/R

 

Terry

Attached Thumbnails

  • todays disc sm60 ss.jpg

Edited by TerryWood, 19 March 2018 - 08:11 PM.

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#2 Hugh Peck

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Posted 19 March 2018 - 07:43 PM

Very nice.


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#3 TerryWood

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Posted 19 March 2018 - 07:55 PM

Thanks Hugh (and everybody)! Wish there was more to see. At least I'll have another chance in a couple of days (forecast looks good for then)! V/R Terry

#4 rigel123

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Posted 19 March 2018 - 07:57 PM

I think it’s a nice subtle color, details look good.  Like you said, not a lot to capture at the moment. 

 

Have you you ever tried Firecapture with that camera?  I don’t know if it would make a difference with your fps or not.


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#5 TerryWood

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Posted 19 March 2018 - 08:14 PM

Thanks Warren! I just realized that I used the 1216 x 1216 setting, which gave me 29 frames per second. When I was trying the doublestack I was using the full chip at 18 fps, but couldn't get good coverage across the whole disc. May try downloading firecapture again. The files I have are not working for some reason.

 

V/R

 

Terry



#6 RickV

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Posted 19 March 2018 - 09:54 PM

That's pretty nice Terry.


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#7 TerryWood

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 07:17 AM

Thanks Rick! Dealing with heavy snow right now. It's really coming down too. 16 inches in the forecast. But sunny and warmer Thursday and Friday, and maybe even Saturday! V/R Terry

#8 MalVeauX

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 09:03 AM

Looks great,

 

Your disc is nice and clean, very little gradient, was it naturally that way or did you have to process the disc for gradients (ie, pseudo flat, or something)?

 

Very best,


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#9 TerryWood

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 09:25 AM

Thanks Marty! It came out pretty clean for the most part. Applied "curves" in Gimp slightly, but it didn't need much. I found that rotating the front etalon helped a bit too. It's a pre-Meade SM60 with the external etalon. It allowed for a little bit of play in the threads which caused me to be able to tweak the tilt even more. When I get it to where it looks best I then put a very small, thin bungy cord behind the tilting plate to apply pressure on it and keep it in that position. It's a temp fix until I can find something more appealing and less obvious. My big issue now is trying to find a way to get the second etalon to tune better with the first etalon. The mismatch might be too great to overcome. When double stacked I can get a good, detailed 60-70% of coverage, but not the whole ball of wax. That's why I'm beginning to play around with mosaics using IMerge. The problem I run into there is trying to overcome mismatched dark and light areas. Guess it's just going to take a lot of practice. V/R Terry

#10 rigel123

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 12:08 PM

Thanks Marty! It came out pretty clean for the most part. Applied "curves" in Gimp slightly, but it didn't need much. I found that rotating the front etalon helped a bit too. It's a pre-Meade SM60 with the external etalon. It allowed for a little bit of play in the threads which caused me to be able to tweak the tilt even more. When I get it to where it looks best I then put a very small, thin bungy cord behind the tilting plate to apply pressure on it and keep it in that position. It's a temp fix until I can find something more appealing and less obvious. My big issue now is trying to find a way to get the second etalon to tune better with the first etalon. The mismatch might be too great to overcome. When double stacked I can get a good, detailed 60-70% of coverage, but not the whole ball of wax. That's why I'm beginning to play around with mosaics using IMerge. The problem I run into there is trying to overcome mismatched dark and light areas. Guess it's just going to take a lot of practice. V/R Terry

I'm really not familiar with the Coronado, would be interested in seeing a pic of the bungy cord attached so I can picture what you are actually doing.  That's kind of a bummer about the DS, hope you can get things worked out.



#11 TerryWood

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 01:21 PM

I'm really not familiar with the Coronado, would be interested in seeing a pic of the bungy cord attached so I can picture what you are actually doing.  That's kind of a bummer about the DS, hope you can get things worked out.

When the front-mounted etalon is partially unscrewed from the objective end of the telescope, it can develop some slight back-and-forth wiggle motions due to the threads. Not much, just a little. So once I initially dial-in the best tilt position for the etalon (when screwed all the way in), I begin to unscrew it (or rotate it outward) to see if it improves the view in any way. It turns out that it does up to a point. I do this with the camera attached and view on the laptop screen. When it appears that I have the best detail across the disc I then wrap a small bungee cord around the telescope tube (where the objective end and etalon pair up) to effectively brace the etalon in that position so that it doesn't wiggle anymore while I'm imaging. You may need to adjust again once the bungee is in place because it might put too much pressure on the threads. It doesn't take much to effect it. What would be interesting is if etalons came with a variable tilt plate with springs or screws that you could adjust like when you collimate a refractor. Kind of like a tilt plate they have for a ZWO camera, but scaled way up. It seems you could really dial it in then. Or then again, maybe it was just a fluke. It worked yesterday though! I'll take pic next time it's setup.

 

V/R

 

Terry


Edited by TerryWood, 20 March 2018 - 01:25 PM.


#12 rigel123

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 02:22 PM

When the front-mounted etalon is partially unscrewed from the objective end of the telescope, it can develop some slight back-and-forth wiggle motions due to the threads. Not much, just a little. So once I initially dial-in the best tilt position for the etalon (when screwed all the way in), I begin to unscrew it (or rotate it outward) to see if it improves the view in any way. It turns out that it does up to a point. I do this with the camera attached and view on the laptop screen. When it appears that I have the best detail across the disc I then wrap a small bungee cord around the telescope tube (where the objective end and etalon pair up) to effectively brace the etalon in that position so that it doesn't wiggle anymore while I'm imaging. You may need to adjust again once the bungee is in place because it might put too much pressure on the threads. It doesn't take much to effect it. What would be interesting is if etalons came with a variable tilt plate with springs or screws that you could adjust like when you collimate a refractor. Kind of like a tilt plate they have for a ZWO camera, but scaled way up. It seems you could really dial it in then. Or then again, maybe it was just a fluke. It worked yesterday though! I'll take pic next time it's setup.

 

V/R

 

Terry

OK, that makes more sense.


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