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Intes Micro no more?

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#101 Phil Barker

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Posted 21 November 2018 - 10:45 PM

Had a 715Delux which I sold to a telescope hoarder who never uses it and won't part with it........

 

Always regret it even made an offer of more cash than I sold it to him for and failed.

 

Then the scope gods smiled and I ended up with a superb 10 inch intes micro 1008 f-10.

 

Got it for a song too beautiful scope like a 10 inch questar except the focuser is next to useless.  I use a gso crayford whcih works well.

 

They are beautiful scopes certainly optically there are few in there class.


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#102 JohnH

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 01:37 PM

Had a 715Delux which I sold to a telescope hoarder who never uses it and won't part with it........

 

Always regret it even made an offer of more cash than I sold it to him for and failed.

 

Then the scope gods smiled and I ended up with a superb 10 inch intes micro 1008 f-10.

 

Got it for a song too beautiful scope like a 10 inch questar except the focuser is next to useless.  I use a gso crayford whcih works well.

 

They are beautiful scopes certainly optically there are few in there class.

The optics are usually good to superb but the mechanics need work. My M809 Micro needed a lot of work.



#103 Ptkacik

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 10:46 PM

Sorry if I'm a bit clueless and I understand these Intes have wonderful optics, but how would they compare to an Orion Optics OMC-200 Deluxe? Or are they made by the same people?

Just curious,
Peter

#104 luxo II

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 11:33 PM

Hard to say. Not made by the same people.

On paper the OMC-200 should be a fine scope but on the other hand I have seen some very negative reports concerning the quality from Orion UK.

Only definitive way to know would be to have one tested.

Edited by luxo II, 24 November 2018 - 11:37 PM.


#105 JohnH

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Posted 25 November 2018 - 01:22 PM

Hard to say. Not made by the same people.

On paper the OMC-200 should be a fine scope but on the other hand I have seen some very negative reports concerning the quality from Orion UK.

Only definitive way to know would be to have one tested.

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#106 Tyson M

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 10:32 PM

Quick question, on my MN66, do you just adjust collimation by the slots on the primary mirror only? It is in collimation now, just curious. 

 

It appears the only adjustment is made from slotted screws on the back of the primary. 



#107 agmoonsolns

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 10:39 PM

You can adjust the secondary too.


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#108 agmoonsolns

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 10:44 PM

BTW, Moonlite sells everything you need to replace the stock focuser with an absolutely brilliant Moonlite focuser. I actually prefer it to the FeatherTouch.


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#109 Tyson M

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 11:05 PM

How do you take off the cap off the secondary? Is it screwed or pressed fit? I didnt want to rotate it with a lot of force until I know exactly what I am doing. 

 

I checked it with my hotech laser collimator and it seemed a bit off. I tweaked one slot on the primary and star tested it, which could ALMOST handle a 3.5mm delos. So I want to tweak it perfectly


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#110 agmoonsolns

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 11:18 PM

I am not certain as to exactly how the cap comes off (mine is in perfect collimation and I haven't wanted to mess with it), I just know it does from the posts and pictures I have read on these scopes. Maybe, try searching through some of the old forum posts? I know they're there, one just needs to wade through the old posts to find the right ones. Hopefully, a really kind soul will chime in with the information. Another option would be to send Markus Ludes of APM a quick e-mail asking about how to do it. I bet he has complete directions on how to remove the cap and collimate from back when he sold these. Mark of Teton Optics and any of the other old dealers who used to sell these could probably help out too. I think they are on Astromart and CloudyNights, just send them a message.



#111 agmoonsolns

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 11:19 PM

I'll do a quick look through my MN66 stuff to see what I have too.


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#112 agmoonsolns

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 11:28 PM

Another option might be to start a new thread on collimating the Intes Maksutov-Newtonians to catch the eyes of those in the know about these things. The nice thing about doing this is I bet there are and will be many people wanting to know about doing this and removing the secondary cap and you will be doing them a huge service by not only getting the info out there, but also for making it easier to find in an appropriately titled thread. That's one of the problems about the forums, sometimes it can be really hard to find what you're looking for and it can be hiding in threads on totally different subjects.


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#113 Tyson M

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 11:57 PM

I am hoping someone sees this thread for now :)



#114 luxo II

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Posted 30 November 2018 - 06:27 AM

It’s the same as on my MN56, a friends M715D and my MK91.

The black metal cover is largely cosmetic to keep dust out of the tiny screws inside which adjust the tilt of the secondary. The black metal lid unscrews, counterclockwise.

In essence the glass corrector has a hole drilled in it. The secondary mirror base has a circular post that is threaded on the outside and fits through the corrector hole. There is a slender retaining nut screwed down onto that which holds the base right in the hole. This nut however isn’t hexagonal - it’s a thin circular ring with 2 slots in it and you need a lens wrench to adjust this.

Whatever you do be very careful if you need to loosen this because it’s very very difficult to re-tighten afterwards and - if it shakes loose - there’s a good chance the secondary cell will fall out of the corrector and hit the primary.

Gross rotation of the secondary cell is accomplished simply by rotating the whole thing in relation to the corrector.

In some respects it is quite crude mechanically but it does seem to stay put quite well.


Edited by luxo II, 30 November 2018 - 07:56 AM.

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#115 Tyson M

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Posted 30 November 2018 - 09:50 AM

It’s the same as on my MN56, a friends M715D and my MK91.

The black metal cover is largely cosmetic to keep dust out of the tiny screws inside which adjust the tilt of the secondary. The black metal lid unscrews, counterclockwise.

In essence the glass corrector has a hole drilled in it. The secondary mirror base has a circular post that is threaded on the outside and fits through the corrector hole. There is a slender retaining nut screwed down onto that which holds the base right in the hole. This nut however isn’t hexagonal - it’s a thin circular ring with 2 slots in it and you need a lens wrench to adjust this.

Whatever you do be very careful if you need to loosen this because it’s very very difficult to re-tighten afterwards and - if it shakes loose - there’s a good chance the secondary cell will fall out of the corrector and hit the primary.

Gross rotation of the secondary cell is accomplished simply by rotating the whole thing in relation to the corrector.

In some respects it is quite crude mechanically but it does seem to stay put quite well.


Thanks for the detailed post!!

Thankfully, I believe the secondary placement is fine, just basic tweaks to either the primary or secondary should be fine. Star test was almost perfect even after being shipped from another province.

I'll double check everything with the hotech laser

#116 Jeff B

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Posted 30 November 2018 - 10:49 AM

Just finished looking through my MN76 & 86 in DPAC.  Both are excellent, especially the 86, which is a MW OTA build from APM.  Confirms my visual impressions.  Excellent.


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#117 godra

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Posted 01 December 2018 - 04:58 PM

Can somebody with properly collimated MN scope take a picture through focuser? I would like to see a picture of secondary placement. I have big problems to collimate my MN66. So Tyson M ,don't touch anything if pucture in your great scope is OK( like I did):-)

#118 Wildetelescope

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Posted 01 December 2018 - 05:32 PM

This all reminds me of a post by Markus Ludes on CN back in 2011, it was an attempt by him to clarify the confusion and set the record straight on who are/were the major Maksutov producers in Russia.

.
It is a fairly long and detailed post but there is one comment related strictly to Intes Micro that is worth repeating here now that IM is history, here are his exact words:

.

“Opsys (INTES MiCRO) scopes are not very expensive, but they are also not cheap. If you think they are very expensive, name us another company worldwide who make such high quality Maks for less price, there are non! Zeiss Maks 150 and 180 or Questar cost a lot more, so INTES MICRO is for the quality they deliver inexpensive.”

.

So true.

.

Vahe

I agree!  I like my 603!   

 

Jmd



#119 Tyson M

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Posted 01 December 2018 - 06:53 PM

Can somebody with properly collimated MN scope take a picture through focuser? I would like to see a picture of secondary placement. I have big problems to collimate my MN66. So Tyson M ,don't touch anything if pucture in your great scope is OK( like I did):-)

I took off the secondary cap and tweaked the secondary angle, with a laser collimator. Now the views are perfect.  I did snap off one side of the slotted recess wall of one collimation screws. 

 

It was a preowned scope and the screws show their age.

 

I will eventually have to replace the secondary screws but you can collimate it perfectly using only two screws on the secondary and the 3 back ones for the primary.

 

20181130_204757.jpg


Edited by Tyson M, 01 December 2018 - 06:55 PM.


#120 luxo II

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Posted 02 December 2018 - 04:48 AM

Hi Tyson, 

 

Couple of thoughts.

 

When my MN56 arrived (its an old one, the collimating screws are corroded) all the collimation screws were binding and its no surprise to see the head of a brass screw has broken - when my scope arrived the screws were effectively frozen and the scope was badly out of alignment - I suspect the previous owner probably never used it nor knew how to fix this.

 

By spraying WD40 lubricant onto a small camel-hair brush and carefully applying this to the screws, a week later they were able to be moved and the scope aligned.

 

I'd be looking for some cap screws or long Allen-head grub screws as possible replacements for all of them. While I know the purists will scream at the thought, I would apply a miniscule amount of lubricant to prevent them binding again.


Edited by luxo II, 02 December 2018 - 04:51 AM.

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#121 godra

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Posted 02 December 2018 - 08:52 AM

My older version MN66 (year 2001)is with two secondary screws.undecided.gif

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#122 Tyson M

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Posted 02 December 2018 - 12:33 PM

Thanks all for the replies!

 

Did I mention that I love this scope??!!  I am looking at getting a nice dob base made for mine. 



#123 luxo II

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Posted 03 December 2018 - 05:21 PM

Ah another one with the toast-rack baffle !

#124 photoracer18

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Posted 03 December 2018 - 05:41 PM

It’s the same as on my MN56, a friends M715D and my MK91.

The black metal cover is largely cosmetic to keep dust out of the tiny screws inside which adjust the tilt of the secondary. The black metal lid unscrews, counterclockwise.

In essence the glass corrector has a hole drilled in it. The secondary mirror base has a circular post that is threaded on the outside and fits through the corrector hole. There is a slender retaining nut screwed down onto that which holds the base right in the hole. This nut however isn’t hexagonal - it’s a thin circular ring with 2 slots in it and you need a lens wrench to adjust this.

Whatever you do be very careful if you need to loosen this because it’s very very difficult to re-tighten afterwards and - if it shakes loose - there’s a good chance the secondary cell will fall out of the corrector and hit the primary.

Gross rotation of the secondary cell is accomplished simply by rotating the whole thing in relation to the corrector.

In some respects it is quite crude mechanically but it does seem to stay put quite well.

Very well explained. I did a number of these while at Hands On Optics. For safety don't do the secondary while its on the mount. Take the OTA off and set it on a reasonably level table so if it falls out it won't go down and hit the primary. Don't over tighten it either.

I recently decided to get back into Maks, picking up an Orion (Intes) MK 67 MCT and an Intes Micro MN56 (got it cheap because it has a loose secondary). Its test document says it has slightly better Strehl than my Stellarvue SVA-130EDT, .952 verses .950. Don't have time to fix it till early 2019, however, and need to set one of my mounts up into a shorter height for it.




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