I just picked up a Sony A6000 to modify.
The main display LCD wasn't working. Instead of buying a replacement part I was thinking maybe just using the EVF was actually a good thing...
I usually have to drive 2 hours out of the city to a star party to image and realized how bright those rear LCD screens were.
It can totally be obnoxious at a dark site. Even a towel over my head couldn't quite suppress the brightness. EVF seems like the courteous approach.
Anyone else using the EVF for focus and framing? A7S could probably do live view but any luck with something like EVF playback on the A6000? I haven't been out for a long time. Maybe next month...
I use my a7s as a second set of pseudo binoculars with 'night-vision image intensifying capabilities' all the time.
I Don't really understand the "crick in the neck" comment,
but then again you didn't define your application.
A simple stool or observing chair (like people do with binos) is all that is needed.
Sure if you have your camera attached to a refractor on low mount, it will be a challenge as much as using a polar scope to align a mount.
But if you have some nice glass attached, you can get some fun bino(mono) experience like my youtube link above.
I find such app especially useful for spotting clouds even at super dark sites, where the rest of my fellow images don't know why their guiding all of the sudden is acting up and sure enough: faint clouds are moving in.....
The weird thing about the whole conversation of using a camera EVF and getting it modded, especially around these CN parts,
is people use cameras to do astrophotography which means taking lots of subs (many shots of longer exposures of the same target) that are then stacked.
To do a sequence of images:
one either uses a intervalometer or connects their camera to a laptop to run the automatic sequence,
that then starts taking long exposures of a countless number of the same image,
which means sitting and waiting for it to be done.
So most DSLR use in AP isn't really about looking at your camera display (BOC or EVF) anyway.
And if you are doing only Milky Way or astroscapes with the landscape, then you are on a tripod than is pretty horizontal,
so no crick and the EVF is plenty fine.
And a loupe is fine if you get better pixel resolution from the BOC LCD over the EVF,
but in your case why spend money twice to fix the camera and then buy a loupe.
All Sony models offer focus magnification which will offer zooming in for a better look, works even in viewfinder,
which is a nice equalizer the same way people zoom into their 24 megapixel image while looking at in in their meager 1080HD (4MP) laptop display.
If you are insane (like me) and want resolution of the whole image,
you can always attach the camera to a 4K display (like my lightweight 28" one I take out),
since all the Sony models offer 4K still image review out of the HDMI port, and 1080HD otherwise (how I recorded the youtube video above).
A thing to note is both the BOC LCD and EVF have brightness settings (and even image quality settings) that can dim and extend battery life.
I'm pretty sure most of the models have the menu setting to toggle between "AUTO" and LCD and EVF. I know at least the a7xx series EVF is auto-detect (ON AUTO setting), so doesn't activate until your put your eye (or annoyingly your hand) close to it-and then darkens the BOC LCD....
One should watch out for setting it to other than auto, like enabling only the BOC LCD, because a broken display mean you won't be able to enter the menu to change it back because the camera won't show anything on the EVF at all.
THE FIX IS TO ATTACH the camera via HDMI to a display to access menu and change it back to AUTO or EVF...
Be aware the EVF does burn more battery than BOC LCD only.
Also take note looking through EVF also gives that eyeball a good snow-blindness experience for a bit of time compared with your dark surroundings.....
I pretty much just cover my car with tarps and stay in it with my light polluting display, while accessing the camera and mount through the driver side window portal.
^If you take a look at the linked youtube,
I cycle through the menu and show how there are trade-offs in quick applications like you mention about framing and focusing.....
Note sometimes the movie mode gives a better realtime display of high ISO effect,
but often the STILL IMAGE mode allows a higher max dialed ISO.
So take note of all the options available, feel free to ask follow up about specifics.
Note best performance is based on f/stop of lens. f/1.4 is mind blowing.
Remember to use widest aperture and highest ISO/slowest shutter for best detection for framing,
then dial settings down for good image quality when taking the image with longer exposure.....