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ASI294MC camera

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#26 goldtr8

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 08:57 PM

I bought the uncooled 294 and am just getting things connected and playing with software and all kinds of things.  Time will tell if I made a good decision or not.   I already know that I won't want to do AP with all the processing involved, but I really want to do EAA to see better resolution that what I can do with and eye piece.

 

Many aspects were considered in the purchase of the uncooled version.  Less weight, less power, smaller size, EAA not AP, less cost, big sensor plus if I dont get out as much as I want to it wont be the end of the world.

 

I would like to see pictures that folks have saved of their EAA adventure with this camera to help set expectations of details that I will be able to see.   Hopefully by February I will have some experience and can share what I have learned.

 

Don


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#27 Astrojedi

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 10:59 AM

This all I the info i have  on the Dark Noise reduction.

There was a bug in the original driver.

 

To the op... I would still get the cooled one. Gives you more options and reduces the need for darks. This camera does seem to produce more hot pixels for me vs. others.


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#28 descott12

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 03:38 PM

 

I would like to see pictures that folks have saved of their EAA adventure with this camera to help set expectations of details that I will be able to see.   Hopefully by February I will have some experience and can share what I have learned.

 

 

Here are few very entry-level images that I took recently. Exposure was generally about 10 seconds. Total integration time 3-5 minutes, gain about 250. Taken with my Evo 8 +  Hyperstar. This is with the cooled camera and I am still in the process of mastering SC so your results (and my future results) will certainly be better.

Also, many have suggested much better results with a longer exposure (30 seconds) but so far that has not worked well for mel as the Live Stacker seems to have problems with alignment - hopefully I can figure that out soon.

All around, this seems like a very good camera. I think you will like it.

Attached Thumbnails

  • M31-3-cropped.png
  • M42-3-cropped.png

Edited by descott12, 20 January 2019 - 04:12 PM.

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#29 descott12

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 04:25 PM

 

 

To the op... I would still get the cooled one. Gives you more options and reduces the need for darks. This camera does seem to produce more hot pixels for me vs. others.

Regarding dark frames: I just started experimenting with creating some dark frames to see if they would help.
Using ASI 294 MC Pro with the cooler on.

I created one master dark (exp 10.3 secs, gain 216, full resolution, 1x1 binning, did not note temp) using SharpCap and it is completely black. No noise, not a single hot pixel. That doesn't really make sense....but I suppose that is good thing. Or did I create the dark incorrectly?

 

However, when I zoomed the dark to 700% in an image viewer, I got the repeated pattern displayed in the attachment. What is that? Is that a real thing in the image data or is it an artifact of extreme zoom.  (Note it may not display properly in the forum. You may need to download and view on your desktop with some other app)

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Attached Thumbnails

  • zoomed_dark.png


#30 saguaro

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 05:22 PM

Some general tips for creating a master dark in SharpCap are:

 

Cover your scope, or if taking darks indoors, make sure the camera is tightly sealed against light leaks, and make sure your camera is cooled to the same temp as you plan to use for your image captures during live-stacking.

 

You want your master dark to be created using all the same settings used when capturing your image subexposures (your "lights"): same temp, gain, brightness, resolution, exposure, binning, etc. I typically use 15 and 30sec exposures for my lights, so I create several master darks, one using 15sec exposures and one using 30sec exposures.

 

And, following advice from SC developer Robin Glover, I capture the darks with the white balance R and B sliders at 50, and then only adjust the white balance sliders once the dark frame is being applied and I'm on my target, but before starting live stacking. If you create your darks with the color balance at some value other than 50, you'll get an additive effect that is almost impossible to get rid of. By capturing the darks with the white balance values at 50, selecting the dark frame, and THEN balancing the sliders with the object in view, you'll be adjusting the true color balance of the object, rather than amplifying color imbalances in the dark frame.

 

Edit: I don't have the 294 camera, so I'll leave it to those who do to add their tips. But following these guidelines has worked well for me with my 1600MC-C.


Edited by saguaro, 20 January 2019 - 06:02 PM.

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#31 descott12

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 06:10 PM

Hi Saguaro,

I pretty much captured as you described (except for matching temp as this was just a test) so was it not odd that I didn't get any noise of hot pixels? I should have had something visible. This camera can't be that perfect!!!

I will try at higher gain and see what that produces.

 

What about the odd repeating pattern? Some sort of moire pattern?

 

Thanks

Dave



#32 selfo

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 06:16 PM

 

 

And, following advice from SC developer Robin Glover, I capture the darks with the white balance R and B sliders at 50, and then only adjust the white balance sliders once the dark frame is being applied and I'm on my target, but before starting live stacking. If you create your darks with the color balance at some value other than 50, you'll get an additive effect that is almost impossible to get rid of. By capturing the darks with the white balance values at 50, selecting the dark frame, and THEN balancing the sliders with the object in view, you'll be adjusting the true color balance of the object, rather than amplifying color imbalances in the dark frame.

 

 

 

Very good tip about the Slider settings.  Thank You waytogo.gif 


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