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Sears(Towa) #4-6340 Enhancements & Upgrades

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#26 Sky Muse

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Posted 13 October 2018 - 12:36 AM

Paint: the only way to do it...

 

blackening5.jpg


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#27 Sky Muse

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Posted 13 October 2018 - 02:54 AM

You don't have to be a perfectionist when painting.  Just be sure to have plenty of toothpicks on hand, and to scrape the uncured paint off and away from those areas that weren't supposed to be painted...

 

toothpicks.jpg

 

The surface clam-chip was blackened...

 

blackening7.jpg

 

Happy? lol.gif

 

blackening8.jpg

 

blackening10.jpg

 

blackening9.jpg

 

I'll need to take the doublet back outside, and flip the crown again, as my original mark didn't survive the initial washing.


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#28 Sky Muse

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Posted 13 October 2018 - 03:19 AM

objective2.jpg

 

I even shone a penlight, all round inside, and still I could not locate the clam-chip, not even its very edge, and just as I suspected that I wouldn't...

 

objective.jpg


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#29 AstroKerr

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Posted 13 October 2018 - 09:02 AM

Very interesting & informative! looking forward to more =)


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#30 tony_spina

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Posted 13 October 2018 - 09:09 AM

Good news on the lens chip


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#31 Sky Muse

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 04:07 PM

Six useless tube holes to fill, where the 1x finder was mounted, and where the telescope once mounted on to the very poor excuse for an alt-azimuth head/tripod...

 

tube holes2.jpg

 

tube holes.jpg

 

All six holes are metric-threaded.  In the end, I've decided to fill them with very short, stainless-steel set-screws, and flush with the surface of the tube...

 

fillers.jpg

 

You want to get an extra one for each size, in case you lose one, and hopefully not two.  Those are standard-size screws, but they fit, what little they'll go in anyway.  They'll be glued in, too, with either super-glue or clear-epoxy.

 

I've decided against attaching a dovetail-base for a finder.  I'm going to get a nice red-dot that will attach directly to the tube, and the smallest I can find.


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#32 Sky Muse

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 04:25 PM

Good news on the lens chip

The raw doublet is 52mm in diamter, incidentally.  I'm thinking it has a clear observational aperture of 48mm.



#33 Sky Muse

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 10:10 PM

When I went to my local hardware, I had a difficult time sourcing the solution for attaching the pipe-clamps to the dovetail-bar, as the threaded hole of the clamps are a bit oversized for this project...

 

7b.jpg

 

...and for these holes, at the opposite ends, of the bar...

 

8.jpg

 

Initially, I had picked out screws to fit into the clamps, and to use hex-nuts and washers to fasten them to the bar, which would've required wallowing out the holes of the bars, which I wasn't really keen on doing.  I kept looking however, and thinking, "reducer".  I finally found the reducers...

 

mounting hardware.jpg   

 

Those reduce down to the svelter 10-32 screws in front of them; perfect.  The reducers will be epoxied in place, and with J-B Weld™.  All I will need to do is reduce the diameter of the black flat-washers, and so to drop into the recessed holes on the underside of the bar...

 

mounting hardware2.jpg

 

However, look at the lock-washers at the top within the third image.  I was distracted with a couple of phone calls, and nigh to closing time to boot.  I will need to return the smaller one, and get another larger one.  I also need to find a stainless-steel thumbscrew solution for the clamps' screws; captive, if possible, and with c-rings...

 

mounting solution2.jpg

 

At this moment, the copper-plated iron clamps and screws are soaking in a home-brewed solution, as I want these satin or semi-gloss black instead.  "Why didn't you get the plain ones?", you might ask.  The inner diameter of these 2" plated clamps are 2.125" in diameter, and as it is I may need 1/4"-thick wool-felt to line them.  The 2" black-iron clamps are 2.375"...

 

measurement.jpg

 

The outer diameter of the optical-tube is 51mm, or 2.00".  But imagine my excitement when I first spotted the 2" plain, and then my disappointment when I spotted the spec.bawling.gif


Edited by Sky Muse, 14 October 2018 - 10:10 PM.


#34 Sky Muse

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 11:02 PM

Whilst the tube-rings are soaking, I'll have a look at this.  I love taking things apart, and "fixing" them...

 

star diagonal.jpg

 

Anatomy of a Japanese .965" star-prism diagonal...

 

prism7.jpg

 

When taking anything apart, take lots of pictures, and so to put it all back together correctly.

 

Now, that's a quality spring...

 

spring.jpg

 

This prism has been around the block, with countless fingers, and lunches, inserted into the openings...

 

prism5.jpg

 

prism4.jpg

 

...but nothing a jar of Pond's® original-formula can't fix.

 

Hmm, the housing's a bit on the shiny side.  What could I do about that...

 

housing.jpg


Edited by Sky Muse, 14 October 2018 - 11:12 PM.

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#35 Sky Muse

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 12:41 AM

The prism needs a bath, and before buffing.  Here, it's soaking in a bowl of "sweet", "delicious" apple-cider vinegar, and to kill what might still be alive...

 

vinegarising.jpg

 

Ready for buffing-out...

 

prism9.jpg

 

After an intensive buffing with said cold-cream cleanser, the eyepiece surface, the only coated surface, was left with a deteriorated coating...

 

prism8.jpg

 

But without that bright led light shining onto it, it looks fine...

 

prism10.jpg

 

See that whitish spot near the top within the reflection?  That's on the other face, the nosepiece side, and the only defect.  Naturally, the backside of the prism is blemish-free.

 

It's now time to blacken the prism, the frosted sides, and the frosted divider between the two smaller faces...

 

prism11.jpg



#36 Sky Muse

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 03:13 PM

The housing was blackened, where needed...

 

housing3.jpg

 

The inside of the fixed eyepiece-holder was blackened up to the point indicated by the arrow; not all the way up and out...

 

housing2.jpg

 

The set-screw to secure the prism is of brass...

 

set-screw.jpg

 

prism14.jpg

 

prism12.jpg

 

The prism had no backing, paper or other, upon opening it.  Someone recently opined as to the chance of deterioration, chronic, over time, with the usual black-paper insert, resulting in a diminished transmittance.  It was also mentioned that Baader "silvers" the backsides of their prisms.  Well, I do have acid-free, albeit grey-black, paper, but instead I installed a piece of this...

 

backing.jpg

 

...and the closest to "silvering" the backside as I might get.  I'm not going to use aluminum foil.  I'll be experimenting with the flocking as well, in future.  I do wonder, however, as to the practicality of placing sterling leaf onto a thin substrate.  Finished, for the time being...

 

star diagonal2.jpg

 

The chromed, forward-facing rim of the nosepiece was roughened and blackened also...

 

nosepiece.jpg

 

birdies.jpg

 


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#37 Sky Muse

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 09:09 PM

I've been using ultra-flat black for quite some time, but I was curious about the chalkboard-black that others have suggested in the past, so I got a can of the latter whilst I was out today.  Can you tell the difference...

 

matte blacks.jpg

 

The ultra-flat is on the left.


Edited by Sky Muse, 15 October 2018 - 10:09 PM.


#38 tony_spina

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 09:12 PM

Alan,

Looking good.   Have you ever done a comparison of an as-is prism, and a blackened prism. Curious on the difference 



#39 tony_spina

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 09:13 PM

I've been using ultra-flat black for quite some time, but I was curious about the chalkboard-black that others have suggested in the past, so Got a can of the latter whilst I was out today.  Can you tell the difference...

 

attachicon.gif matte blacks.jpg

Can't  see any difference. Try shining a light at an angle 



#40 Sky Muse

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 10:03 PM

The chalkboard-black is on the right.  There's actually scant difference between them, and to the point where it wouldn't make a tiddly-boo's difference during an observation.

 

Here's your angle-shot...

 

matte blacks2.jpg

 

I think that the ultra-flat is warmer.  I like the cooler shade of the chalkboard, and better.

 

In the end, they're a toss-up in so far as the effect during observations.

 

I certainly noticed a difference after I blackened the Celestron star-prism, the one preceding this one.


Edited by Sky Muse, 15 October 2018 - 10:06 PM.


#41 Sky Muse

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 05:00 PM

I swirled a little dab of 5-minute epoxy round the threads of the holes, then the threads of the set-screws -- just a wee bit --- and installed them.  The two larger screws were slightly tight, whilst the four smaller were slightly loose, yet they threaded in easily and held.  After that application of epoxy had set, I then filled the socket holes of the screws, and flush, more or less, with the surface of the optical-tube...

 

tube holes5.jpg

 

tube holes7.jpg

 

I have a Sears 5x24 finderscope and bracket, somewhere, attached to my first telescope, but it wouldn't be worth locating it, as brackets in general ride a bit too high off the tube, and for a telescope of this size.

 

Hmm, this is interesting...

 

finder.jpg

 

All of the entry-level red-dots seem to have that same mounting interface.  I can saw the dovetail off the stalk easily enough, with the scroll-saw...

 

finder2.jpg

 

But it will need to be just a wee bit higher.  I think rosewood might serve in that...

 

finder3.jpg

 

                                    whee.gif

 

Yes, I could raise it up with some more black plastic perhaps, but why?

 

Now, I am not going to "steampunk" this telescope; well, maybe just a wee bit.


Edited by Sky Muse, 16 October 2018 - 05:02 PM.


#42 tony_spina

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 05:53 PM

Interesting development 



#43 Sky Muse

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 06:58 PM

Interesting development 

Yes...

 

A scroll-saw is a bit too coarse to finish this bar out, despite its fine-toothed blade.  You only want to make an initial cut, but not all the way up to the bar itself...

 

finder4.jpg



#44 Sky Muse

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 07:25 PM

A Dremel with a coarse-grinding drum finishes it out flush yet roughened for the epoxy...

 

finder5.jpg



#45 Sky Muse

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 08:21 PM

finder8.jpg

 

finder7.jpg

 

finder9.jpg

 

Here, a slight curvature onto the underside of the rosewood block has been made, and to conform, more or less, to the tube's diameter...

 

finder10.jpg

 

...quite close, actually.  I will take another pic of that once it's mounted onto the tube.



#46 Sky Muse

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 09:05 PM

About four coats of clear-lacquer have been applied to the rosewood riser.  It dries to the touch in 20 minutes, but cures in 24 hours.  After it's cured, I'll lightly polish it with #0000 steel-wool and lemon-oil...

 

finder11.jpg



#47 Sky Muse

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 09:35 PM

I can't either blacken or flock, or both, the optical-tube until I install the red-dot's base.

 

I haven't taken the focusser apart yet.  It will need some work, too, and if needed I'll have the longer drawtube from the 60mm f/15 Tanzutsu; to reach focus with the longer eyepieces, perhaps.  I won't know until I test that out...

 

focusser.jpg

 

The copper-plating of the tube-rings did turn my home-brew blue, but it would take months if not a year or more for it to remove it all.  At least the plating is etched, I'm hoping...

 

etched.jpg

 

As they are now, they would really "steampunk" this telescope out, but they're not going to do any such thing, if I can help it.  I have stainless-steel, spade-type, 3/4"-long, 10-24 thumbscrews on the way, and those will need a snap-ring kit from Harbor Freight to make them captive, and a stainless-steel washer for each.  That's the plan anyway.  

 

It's cold out, and I need to paint and overcoat those tube-rings.  I have some clear-satin spar-varnish in a rattle-can.


Edited by Sky Muse, 16 October 2018 - 09:35 PM.


#48 Sky Muse

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 10:57 PM

After my last post, I took 80-grit, cloth-backed sandpaper and gave both rings a good scouring, then washed and dried them...

 

blackening2.jpg

 

Blackened at last, and with the ultra-flat...

 

blackening.jpg

 

That's not copper you may seeing through the paint in certain areas; just the lighting.

 

Next will be to seal them.

 

 



#49 tony_spina

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 11:52 PM

The rings look much better in black


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#50 Sky Muse

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 12:27 AM

Yep, that's the ticket.  I want a satin finish, like the mounts of old, but I'm wondering if the Cabot-brand spar-satin varnish, in a rattle-can, would be suitable over the paint.  As the fickle finger of fate had it, I couldn't get the plain 2" rings.

 

I went ahead and buffed-out the lacquer on the rosewood riser.  It was dry enough; not tacky at all.  The surfaces were scored, and now I'm waiting for the epoxy to set.  It shouldn't be long...

 

finder12.jpg

 

It will have two holes drilled into it, all the way through, and small, slender, zinc-plated steel screws used to attach it to the tube.  Epoxy will fill the recessed holes and the screw-heads once it's battened down.


Edited by Sky Muse, 17 October 2018 - 12:27 AM.



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