Posted 09 May 2006 - 03:09 AM
I'm trying to locate a particular 7x50 Binolux binocular. It is a Porro wide field. These were mfg. in the late 1950s and thru the 1960s, to the best of my understanding. I have to think that a minimal quanity run was produced.
These were well made Japanese binoculars, and Binolux have produced some interesting ones in my opinion. They are difficult to find even on eB__.
I am not interested at all in the Binolux brand available today, the inexpensive roof types.
Any links will be much appreciated. Google does not return any results for my specific interest.
Thanks all and regards,
Posted 09 May 2006 - 01:11 PM
Posted 10 May 2006 - 01:42 AM
I don't get it. eB__ does not currently offer the model that I'm looking for. So, what is the timing thing all about? I am serious since I really want to locate another one of these.
Thanks much for your help.
Posted 11 May 2006 - 02:14 AM
Hey thanks for your tip. Now I understand the timing thing, which got me exicted because I thought I missed something somewhere on eB__.
No, I am looking for a very specific, rarer production run, so my original post was just a "feeler" for the Binolux brand in general (guess I made it too general). Again, thanks for your help.
Posted 11 May 2006 - 09:17 PM
these binoculars have some surface wear but the lens are scratch free and the casing is clean. I do not have a strap or the orginal leather case for it but that would be easier to find than the binoculars itself. Alot of the different models had the same case. If you would like to make me an offer perhaps we can help eachother out. thanks for your time.
Posted 12 May 2006 - 01:30 AM
Thank you for responding. Specifically, I am looking for a 7x50 11-degree VWA model (~578' at 1000 yds.). Porro prism and uni-body construction.
I had one in my hands about six months ago, but I neglected to enter the data for it into my database. So I do not know the specifics such as model number and the like.
It used a special lens cemented to the prism which faces the first element of the ocular, or eyepiece assembly.
Thanks again for your help, and good luck.
Posted 12 May 2006 - 06:01 AM
If you would like to make me an offer perhaps we can help eachother out. thanks for your time.
While first I sould say welcome, right quickly behind that comes
Cloudy Nights terms of service prohibit sales transaction discussions in the general forums. All sales must take place in swap and Shop or in CN Classifieds.
Cloudy Nights terms of service prohibit sales by anyone with a new account. You must be an active member to post a for sale item in the Swap and Shop Forum. Please read terms posted in S&s.
Posted 12 May 2006 - 03:44 PM
edz- my apologies, I'll make sure I follow your rules and regs in the future. thank you.
Posted 13 June 2006 - 07:57 AM
I have my eye on two pairs of Binolux binoculars at the moment - I can get them cheap and I want to experiment with something that has a wider field for handheld use. Also, my current 8x42 Bushnell Aududbons are great, I love them, BUT, the eyecups are a pain to roll down and up - my wife and I often birdwatch together, and we only have one pair of handhelds. I wear glasses, she does not. When sharing views, inevitably, the bird is gone before I have rolled the eyecups up. So, the solution? Buy another pair of handheld binos. I decided to go "vintage" since most of the cheap handheld binos in my price range are blister-packed bunk at the local big-box retailer.
Here are the two models I am looking at :
Binolux 7x50IF : individual focus (strange)
Binolux 7x35CF : 10-degree FOV
Both are about the same in terms of condition. The first has more light grasp, but has individual focus which will make daytime use a pain. But, it may make a nice stargazing binocular.
The second is CF (better for daytime use) but has a 10-degree wide field - which might be a little too-wide for me. I'm sure edge performance is sacrificed to get a FOV this large - I'd rather a smaller sharp field than a bigger sloppy field.
Both of these are old and Made in Japan. Both cost about the same.
Any comments on which way I should go?
Thanks and clear dark skies...
Posted 13 June 2006 - 10:31 AM
I would NOT consider a IF bino for birding. I like at least 10X50 for astronomy. 7X50s are good for night time terrestrial viewing.
7X35 with 10 deg FOV sounds interesting. 5 mm exit pupil is plenty for day time use. Do expect some edge distortion with EWA binos but usually not a problem for terrestrial viewing. I have a pair of 7X50 with 10 deg FOV. Noticeable edge distortion for astro use but OK in the day time.
Will you have a chance to look thru them before you buy or is this an auction? $$?
Posted 13 June 2006 - 11:01 AM
These are auctions. Good pics though, and from the pics the first pair looks to be in excellent condition, considering the age. The second pair is also in good condition, but I suspect it may be a later Binolux, while the first pair is an earlier model. From what I have read (here and elsewhere), the earlier Binolux models are reputed to be optically superior.
In all likelihood, I will pass on both models unless the high bid is ridiculously cheap at closing time, then I may "snipe" one of them - probably the 7x50IF for nighttime use and the oddity of having an IF handheld bino.
Anyone who wants the links to the auction, PM me.
Posted 15 June 2006 - 02:39 AM
Maybe I can help out a little here. Binolux binoculars, the rather rare ones apparently, are hard to find on auction. I understand that Binolux did military work during WWII.
I had two, a 7x50 EWA and a 7x35 UWA. The 7x50 unit exhibited a defect in one eyelens, and the specific replacement part was just not available to me, no matter where I searched.
I have a Binolux 7x35, No. 68572. It is "lightweight" (it's rather heavy!) and fully coated with BaK4 prisms, with a FOV of 12.5*. I have, oh, three or four in my inventory which are 12.5* or more. One is Orion's "speciality" model.
However, both of the Binolux binoculars have an extremely wide FOV with a pleasing aspect to them, and that is the very gradual rolloff of "distortions," as one gets out to the edges of the fields. On the 7x35, the ocular's eyelens measures 26mm, about one inch.
I ran across Binolux on eB__ by happenchance (my word). I don't need to review them here for this discussion, but the 7x35 serves me well as the BEST WA 7x35 binocular that I employ. Their build quality is excellent, considering that they are CF.
For birding, you might enjoy the 7x35; however, I must say that I have never found either of these two models since I first purchased them on eB__. Guess I got lucky. I check there every night--I use a score card detailing my interests. BTW, the Binolux simply blows the Orion Expanse away for an enjoyable instrument to use for its intended purpose.
I just purchased a Penncrest 7x50 11* binocular on that e___ thing again. I don't recall much about the brand, if anything, but they do APPROACH the Binolux quality. Note that the three are of the uniconstruction (B&L) body design.
Best of luck with your search--sorry I took so long to make my points.
Posted 17 June 2006 - 02:46 PM
I won the auction for the Binolux 7x50IF today. It has a carrying case with a compass built into the lid - a little "campy" (no pun intended), but the case was not a consideration. The unit appears to be in excellent condition with "no scratches on the lenses" - hopefully. We'll see. I got them for a high bid of $11.00 plus $8.68 shipping and handling. Under $20 for a Japanese-made 7x50IF binocular - I could not resist.
They are model 4050, fully coated. Prism glass is listed as BK7 on my source. FOV is ~7° The individual focus still seems strange to me on a 7x50mm binocular - such an arrangement all but negates most daytime use, especially bird watching. Let me ask you something, do these binoculars have a tripod adapter socket or will I have to strap the whole binocular to the mount? I could not tell from the photos, but I am thinking it might not.
I don't know how well the 7mm exit pupil is going to work with my bright skies, but I have the fever for binoculars now, so it really doesn't matter!
Thanks and clear dark skies....
BTW, the same vendor still has the vintage 7x35mm Binolux for sale. I think it has another 2 or 3 days before close.
Posted 18 June 2006 - 12:43 AM
I find the IF to be very useful for my eyesight- I require more diopter adjustment than is usually available on CF binos of the same aperture I've tried out.
Of course an IDEAL solution would be a more expensive combination- IF AND CF. Though how much more expensive could it be since the right (usually) diopter already adjusts on CF. Maybe manufacturers figured that the average consumer just couldn't handle all the extra decisions!
Posted 18 June 2006 - 02:56 AM
Sounds like a score for the cost. I'll do the best I can to answer your question concerning the tripod adapter.
First off, the 7x35 did, but the 7x50 did not (speaking of my two here) have an adapter thread. Since they both weighed about the same, the 7x35 being some on the heavy side because of the large optics and prisms, I do not know why Binolux did not incorporate an adapter thread on the 7x50--maybe it did not come into vogue until later years????
Normally, if the binocular has a provision for an adapter, it will be located between the objectives, at the center, at the end of the hinge axis. A cap will be found and will unscrew, sometimes with a bit of effort on older units. As a note, notwithstanding the big guys, only the Penncrest has a thread on ONE SIDE of the objective tube, quite offset from center.
Now, since the 7x50 did not have a proper thread, I converted it, as it just miffed me enuf to proceed.
Briefly, once that plastic cap is removed, you will encounter a brass plate/small cylinder underneath. If you have access to some drill bits, a drill, and a tap (and die) set, you can do it yourself CAREFULLY. my proc. follows.
1) Using increasing bit sizes, drill out the central hole to a point not to damage the internal screw, but deep enough to allow a full seat of an L-adapter bolt, about 1/4" to 3/8", depending on the specific adapter. Four or five bits will suffice. It's got to be straight on, so a drill press will come in handy, if available. The DIAMETER of this hole MUST be less than 1/4", which is the OUTER thread diameter of the adapter bolt. Since this material is rather soft, progress proceeds quickly! (As an aside, I screwed up only once by being way too aggressive with the bit diameters AND too fast.)
2) Next clean the "garbage" out of the hole. I use olive oil, followed by isopropal alcohol. Sounds strange, no?
3) Then tap the hole to 1/4", excuting this process several times; CLEAN after each attempt. TAP-EZZ is a product that I use to make the job go smoothly (ALMOST an oil/alcohol-based liquid with quite low viscosity). As a note, I generally tap down; by that I mean, IF REQUIRED, I tap a much smaller diameter to begin with. This gets things moving along. DO NOT, however, pre-tap a diameter that will encroach on the final 1/4" thread for the adapter.
4) When finished, thoroughly clean and test. A second, or even a third, 1/4" tap will help to clean up the threads if need be. I always do three minimum. But that is just me--I'm not a mechanical person by training--only by personal experience.
That's about it. Remember, also, that the tapping must be made perpendicular (+/- five degrees) to the plane of the brass surface that you are penatrating. I think I have it right for you. Good luck either way.