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Need help with CMOS camera

astrophotography beginner
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9 replies to this topic

#1 LevonZ

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Posted 17 November 2018 - 11:58 PM

Hi everyone,

 

I recently purchased QHY168C CMOS camera, decided to upgrade from my Canon D600 DSLR, never had experience with dedicated astrophotography cameras before. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. This camera is a one shot color camera but no matter what I do or what software or settings I use I only get monochrome images. Tried to tweak settings, increase gain to 5 10 and 15, binning 1x1, 2x2, I tried Sequence generator pro and Astrophotography tool, as well as it's own sharpcap software with the same result. What ma I doing wrong? Thanks for suggestions in advance.



#2 yobbo89

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Posted 18 November 2018 - 01:39 AM

check that you have the correct bayer settings


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#3 LevonZ

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Posted 18 November 2018 - 06:00 AM

Thanks for the 

 

check that you have the correct bayer settings

Thanks for responding, I figured it out, had to reinstall the driver and it fixed the problem. This camera software has lots of bugs, it randomly freezes while saving subs for no apparent reason. 



#4 einarin

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Posted 18 November 2018 - 06:16 AM

That could also be a bad USB cable problem.



#5 Noah4x4

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Posted 19 November 2018 - 03:25 AM

Thanks for the 

 

Thanks for responding, I figured it out, had to reinstall the driver and it fixed the problem. This camera software has lots of bugs, it randomly freezes while saving subs for no apparent reason. 

I agree with Elnarin, it could simply be a USB problem or 'plug & play' issue. But before replacing your cable try this.

 

Make sure that camera is powered and connected to the laptop BEFORE booting up the laptop.  I find with my Atik Horizon that if I plug the camera USB cable in after the laptop is already running I can suffer all manner of problems because Windows 'plug & play' seems to be fickle or the software doesn't find all of its functions.

 

This might not be relevant but I have twice had situations where a major Windows Update has occured and I have had to reinstall my drivers. Not sure what Microsoft is up to! 



#6 happylimpet

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Posted 19 November 2018 - 05:05 AM

This is defintiely not a USB cable problem. Cables either work or dont work. They cant modify your data in this way.

 

This is a settings problem in either your capture software or your processing software.



#7 Noah4x4

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Posted 19 November 2018 - 06:23 AM

This is defintiely not a USB cable problem. Cables either work or dont work. They cant modify your data in this way.

 

This is a settings problem in either your capture software or your processing software.

It is well documented in the EAA Forum that the performance of USB cables degrade over quite short distances and conflicts are possible between USB3 and USB2 devices and also with WiFi. It's not relevant here but put Celestron's 'serial to USB' HC adapter (that requires Win8 compatibility mode) into the mix and have fun with USB (not!). But I agree it's highly unlikely to be the cable itself, but it could be interference from one of these issues (albeit again highly unlikely here as the OP has not mentioned the presence of any other USB devices). 

 

My CMOS camera has software colour binning rather than hardware binning. I don't know this QHY camera, but if similar that might indeed suggest a software setting error. However, I would still try connecting camera and power before starting the laptop. Windows Plug & Play does seems to be fickle with some cameras.  We have got so used to devices working simply on USB insertion that we forget basic discipline like allowing Windows to discover the camera and select the right driver on laptop boot up. This might be all that is required and it fixed the issues that I had. Frankly, I was booting up computer before doing anything else simply because it's the longest start-up process. Not best practice to plug in camera later and it's worth eliminating this before chasing more complicated solutions. 


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#8 Matt Harmston

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 10:34 AM

With respect to freezing while saving subs, I'm curious about your computer OS.
If you are running windows 10, try changing the affinity setting to a single processor for your camera's software. Some software doesn't play nicely with multi-core PCs running Windows 10, a symptom if which is freezing during frame capture or stacking frames.

#9 Noah4x4

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 01:39 PM

With respect to freezing while saving subs, I'm curious about your computer OS.
If you are running windows 10, try changing the affinity setting to a single processor for your camera's software. Some software doesn't play nicely with multi-core PCs running Windows 10, a symptom if which is freezing during frame capture or stacking frames.

More information please Matt as I have never read about this before.  Is this something you can set in Windows, or is it a computer Bios setting or how? Or is it relevant to specific camera software? 

 

I had some time today to further experiment so I went back to trying both 802.11n and 802.11ac WiFi between my two Intel NUCs. Just as before I suffered lag and similar problems. But if I instead use 10M of Cat6 cable via a router/hub that gives me no problems. Ideally, I would like to adopt WiFi but with a 16 megapixel camera, Iris Plus 640 Graphics and 4K UHD monitor it appears that WiFi is too fickle (but OK for 1080p HD).  But if there are other hardware solutions to try that might assist they would be welcome.  Your comment sounds as if it might be of interest. BTW, I am using two identical i5 Intel NUCs one running Win10 Pro (to enable Remote Desktop) and the other Win10 Home. 



#10 Matt Harmston

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Posted 21 November 2018 - 08:58 AM

Noah,

I am unsure of the exact impact on your system, but Win10 can be a challenge. Personally, I disable my internet connection, then McAfee AV (in that order) during viewing sessions. Then, after starting my astro software, hit ctrl-alt-delete, select the details tab, right click on your software name in the list, and select "set affinity". Once in the affinity window, I deselect all processors except one (which one doesn't seem to matter). Doing this disables multithreading for that software in that session. It will return to default "all processors" if you reboot the software.

No guarantees that this will fix the issues that you face, but it helps my I7 machine to not get confused. Good luck!

Matt


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