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Stellarvue SVX080T-3SV w/ .74X Reducer-Flattener

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#126 ksouers

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Posted 02 December 2019 - 11:33 PM

Lovely!

I still haven’t gotten a shipping notice so I have to live vicariously through you guys.


Kevin

#127 sink45ny

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 08:39 AM

If UPS can't get to my house then they cannot deliver. So do what we must, the telescopes (like the mail) must go through.

 

20191203 072139right

 


Edited by sink45ny, 03 December 2019 - 09:38 AM.

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#128 VuurEnVlam

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 09:20 AM

Yeah, make them pass! 

Nice place btw! waytogo.gif



#129 zakry3323

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 10:00 AM

No hope for a first light anytime soon! With trips coming up it may not see first light until mid-January, and then only if the weather cooperates! Still, she's a bonny. The included field flattener is set for 55mm backfocus, so attaching a full-frame dslr is as simple as screwing on an M48 T-ring. For using my 1600mm with filter wheel and oag, the field flattener's barrel unscrews and gives you about 33mm of extra room to play with. Can't do any testing to fine-tune spacing right now, but I'm sure I'm in the ballpark.

cloud.JPG


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#130 zakry3323

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 10:03 AM

 

If UPS can't get to my house then they cannot deliver. So do what we must, the telescopes (like the mail) must go through.

Yikes! All that is from last night? To your West, we only got a dusting last night. Still, people are driving like...well...you know. 



#131 sink45ny

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 10:09 AM

Yikes! All that is from last night? To your West, we only got a dusting last night. Still, people are driving like...well...you know. 

I take measurements for the NWS.

 

20191203 071648crop
 
20191203 071648i

 


Edited by sink45ny, 03 December 2019 - 10:20 AM.

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#132 zakry3323

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 10:26 AM

I take measurements for the NWS.

 

Pennsyltucky sure looks beautiful in the winter smile.gif 

I'm curious about the included losmandy-style plate. I'm no machinist, but unless I'm mistaken, it seems like the slots were routed out after the plate was anodized. It's a cool-looking effect, but it strikes me as strange. 

 

IMG_20191202_164336.jpg


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#133 Esso2112

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 02:25 PM

Pennsyltucky sure looks beautiful in the winter smile.gif

I'm curious about the included losmandy-style plate. I'm no machinist, but unless I'm mistaken, it seems like the slots were routed out after the plate was anodized. It's a cool-looking effect, but it strikes me as strange.

IMG_20191202_164336.jpg


You must have the newer risers, which are narrower than the old style. My SVX80 is from the first run and mine has the wider risers and a normal looking unmodified dovetail.
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#134 zakry3323

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 04:21 PM

I can tell ya that the widest parts of the risers (Top and bottom of the "I") are 80mm, the center is about 28.5mm across, and the entire riser is a hair less than 26mm in thickness, according to cheapo calipers. I'm really not sure why the dovetail would be routed out after anodizing, doesn't seem like the best way to preserve tooling, but perhaps the modification is necessary for reasons outside of my realm of experience.

The risers really are very beautiful, I love the "SV" etching. They're also very solid, and the two fasteners do a fine job keeping everything secure. 

  IMG_20191203_161638.jpg


Edited by zakry3323, 03 December 2019 - 04:23 PM.

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#135 ksouers

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 04:58 PM

Yep, aluminum oxide is definitely going to eat up the cutting edges faster.

Perhaps they were fixing an oops in the rush to get parts out the door.

But it does look intentional. And it looks good.

 

But you can see where the cap head bolts have already left dents in the exposed aluminum. Not criticizing, just an observation.

 

Overall a very nice looking scope. I'm jealous.

Congratulations.

 

 

 

Kevin



#136 zakry3323

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 05:08 PM

I'm not sure if I should start a new thread...

 

Yep, aluminum oxide is definitely going to eat up the cutting edges faster.

Perhaps they were fixing an oops in the rush to get parts out the door.

But it does look intentional. And it looks good.

 

But you can see where the cap head bolts have already left dents in the exposed aluminum. Not criticizing, just an observation.

 

Kevin

That's exactly what I was thinking Kevin. It does look pretty cool, and intentional. It's definitely been routed twice though once on each side; you can see where one edge runout meets the other inside the slot, and heaven help me for pointing it out, but they did leave sharp edges. 

 

IMG_20191202_180720.jpg

What difference does it make? Well, nobody is too likely to stick their finger in there, but still. And like you pointed out, very strange to leave an area that will absolutely receive some abrasion from steel fasteners as bare aluminum when the rest of the plate is anodized. Very curious, and I'm interested to hear how other folks' plates turned out once they're received. 
 


Edited by zakry3323, 03 December 2019 - 05:15 PM.

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#137 moon_nut_99

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 05:37 PM

I think the plate looks pretty cool. Although they could've deburred those edges. The style reminds me of some current production cars. Many have wheels with black rims and with the edges machined so they're bare metal to give that black and silver look. Even a lot of motorcycle engines are like that. It's trendy is all...


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#138 zakry3323

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 06:16 PM

I think the plate looks pretty cool. Although they could've deburred those edges. The style reminds me of some current production cars. Many have wheels with black rims and with the edges machined so they're bare metal to give that black and silver look. Even a lot of motorcycle engines are like that. It's trendy is all...

Well, look at me, part of the trendy plate club smile.gif 

Just an FYI here, I'm an idiot, so if I'm getting this wrong or looking at it from the wrong angle, please let me know in the harshest way possible- it's the only way I'm going to learn smile.gif

 

Like many folks I started out using an AVX mount, and every molecule of weight seemed to make a difference in guiding. So I'm a little pre-programmed to shave off unneeded weight whenever possible. Additionally, I use a losmandy plate on top of my OTA's with a NUC and all the other necessary components to avoid dragging wires. Those (2) nicely machined and evenly-anodized finder/accessory mounts (not to mention the nicely larger and knurled hand fasteners) are proud of top of the permanently affixed rings- I'm not going to use this scope for visual, so they needed to go. 

IMG_20191203_164320.jpg

 

They don't weigh much, but every ounce helps- especially on the heavy focuser-end of the OTA. 

IMG_20191203_164602.jpg

 

Re-affixing the fasteners- 

 

IMG_20191203_163418.jpg

 

I can attest that you can screw them in all the way and they won't hit the drawtube. However, they go in a little wonky (one really wants to cross-thread, caution advised!) and won't do much to keep out moisture or dust (or pollen!) 

So I used these o-rings. I feel like they take away some of the overall sleekness of OTA in general, but I don't feel like most folks will notice unless they're looking for them. If anyone is interested, they're Danco 96750 #36. That's 5/16"OD x 3/16"ID x 1/16"

 

IMG_20191203_163736.jpg

That's it for now. Not done in the spirit of saltiness at all, just a public service announcement so to speak, since it seems like lots of folks (Including the Elf) are checking out this thread to learn about this OTA. 
 


Edited by zakry3323, 03 December 2019 - 06:21 PM.

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#139 ksouers

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 06:17 PM

I'm not sure if I should start a new thread...

 

That's exactly what I was thinking Kevin. It does look pretty cool, and intentional. It's definitely been routed twice though once on each side; you can see where one edge runout meets the other inside the slot, and heaven help me for pointing it out, but they did leave sharp edges. 

 

attachicon.gif IMG_20191202_180720.jpg

What difference does it make? Well, nobody is too likely to stick their finger in there, but still. And like you pointed out, very strange to leave an area that will absolutely receive some abrasion from steel fasteners as bare aluminum when the rest of the plate is anodized. Very curious, and I'm interested to hear how other folks' plates turned out once they're received. 
 

WOW!
That's embarrassing! I can't believe they let those burrs out of the building!

 

While it doesn't affect the functionality of the plate it sure is unsightly and certainly well beneath the quality I've been led to expect.

Sorry, Zak, I don't mean to belittle your purchase. If I've been touting my high standards and quality for years, then sent that out the door, I'd be ashamed.

 

 

Kevin


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#140 ksouers

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 06:41 PM

I did the same thing with my Moonlite focuser, removed the finder shoes. Wasn't ever going to use them and it was just extra weight where I was already too heavy, on the camera end.

Now they just sit in a box with a bunch of other bits and bobs that aren't used.

 

Kevin


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#141 zakry3323

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 07:03 PM

Another little thing to keep in mind-

 

This OTA is definitely heavier by a good margin on the focuser end, so if you're adding an imaging train, it seems very unlikely that one would need to shift any weight back toward that end for balancing. That said, the focuser body is proud of the affixed mounting rings as well (probably around 3-4mm at its widest circumference). Note that it's not the brass name plate, it's the actual body that is designed larger than the rings, so depending on your own specific setup, it may not be possible to use without risers.

IMG_20191203_165714.jpg


Using a top losmandy-style mounting plate is limited to mounting closer to the objective-side, which I think should be the way to go in just about any scenario. It's just a little strange that this very typical option to move the plate wherever you want on top it is lacking (without some nylon washers, at least). 

 

Certainly nothing here is deal-breaking at all - I'm just picking nits. The true test, the one that matters by far, won't be undertaken for a good while. Hopefully some other folks can post star tests before I get the chance!


Edited by zakry3323, 03 December 2019 - 07:39 PM.

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#142 Gene3

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Posted 03 December 2019 - 10:37 PM

Pennsyltucky sure looks beautiful in the winter smile.gif 

I'm curious about the included losmandy-style plate. I'm no machinist, but unless I'm mistaken, it seems like the slots were routed out after the plate was anodized. It's a cool-looking effect, but it strikes me as strange. 

 

attachicon.gif IMG_20191202_164336.jpg

That dovetail does not have the hole pattern of TP06 or TP013.


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#143 thelosttrek

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Posted 04 December 2019 - 01:29 AM

Hey all,

 

I ordered my SVX080T-3SV yesterday, but forgot to ask about the reducer so I followed up with an email to Stellarvue. In their words regarding a reducer:

 

"With a telescope this fast using a conventional focuser we are finding that a reducer may introduce tilt and it may require adjustment to the individual camera. For this reason we suspended offering our reducer and we are studying the problem to see if we can improve things. The reducer is not full frame but much better than the smaller 2" APS reducers in terms of reducing vignetting. The 2" reducers do not work well with this system. We can supply you with a reducer but it may be necessary for you to shim your system to eliminate tilt. The reducer fits inside of the focuser."

 

While I was excited to receive this telescope after many weeks of research, I'm now wondering if I made the right choice? I understand the build quality is great and customer service is outstanding, but the cameras I'm pairing it with are close to cropping off subjects I had intended on photographing with a reducer. The message from Stellarvue is confusing mainly because I'm new to the hobby. Stellarvue stated that they are studying the problem, but it doesn't say if it will ever be offered. The reducer they mentioned is not full frame, but is better than a smaller 2" APS reducer. I'm not familiar with the different size of reducers, so it's even more confusing. The 2" reducer does not work well, but they said they can supply me with a reducer, which is unclear if it's larger than the 2", but smaller than full frame. Finally, I would have to add a shim, which seems odd considering the amount of money these cost.

 

Honestly, I was looking at the Williams Optics 80mm with a reducer that is made for that scope, so I assumed reducers were easily built into any system you buy into.  

 

Tim, you mentioned a .74 reducer. Is that the one that Stellarvue mentioned or off-brand? If so, did you have to shim it to get it to work? Do you notice issues with quality?

 

My SVX080T with .74x reducer arrived on Friday and then a couple of miracles occurred: I had all of the cables and adapters I needed and had a clear night on Saturday to do some playing around.  My scope has the 3" SV focuser and I'm using an Optec Third Lynx motorized focuser with it paired with an ASI1600 mono.

 

On another related topic, which camera are you guys intended to use with the scope? I was looking at the ASI294, but those are out of stock until March 2020. I looked at the ASI183, but that sensor even small, which renders an even tighter crop. I even looked at the ASI1600, but I'm not sure about starting with mono and all of the filter changes.

 

I have Canon DSLRs I can use, but I was really hoping to utilize a dedicated astro camera. I swear, I've been researching all of this non-stop for the last few weeks and thought I was heading in the right direction. Any thoughts on what I should do regarding scope, camera, reducer, etc.? Would you stay with the scope knowing that a reducer might not be made available? There are plenty of subjects to shoot, but some of the larger ones might require an entirely differently scope and focal length. Should I be thinking of a completely new camera the pairs better? I appreciate your time.


Edited by thelosttrek, 04 December 2019 - 10:27 PM.

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#144 Tim C

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Posted 04 December 2019 - 09:09 AM

Thelosttrek,

The .74 reducer is the one that they make specifically for this scope and have at least temporarily stopped offering due to the excessive amount of time it was taking them to adjust them properly. I’m pretty sure that is the one they are offering to you with the caveat that you may need to do some tilt adjustments. I’d call to verify.

Tilt issues are very common, especially with fast scopes and small pixel cameras. It is is more noticeable in faster systems and may be caused by anything in the imaging train including the camera itself. Tilt issues you wouldn’t see at f/6 may be apparent at f4.5. Even people with Taks have to combat it from some other posts I’ve read.

I do see some evidence of tilt with my setup but I’m not sure yet if it is enough for me to try to adjust it out. You can get to some high res photos from the links I posted earlier to see if the shots are good enough for your tastes. Some people are a lot more picky than others and of course your results may differ.

Tim
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#145 zakry3323

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Posted 04 December 2019 - 09:49 AM

The info that I've received from the calls that I've placed over the last few weeks falls right in line with what Tim said. If you want a reducer, best call them up and let them know as soon as possible, they really want to be done messing with them. They're doing a lot of work to ensure that each reducer is well-matched to its accompanying ota- if you buy one separately (which is also my plan) they can't guarantee its functionality, and leave it up to you to shim it to get the flattest possible field. A somewhat risky investment if money isn't falling off the tree (at $400) and you ( I ) don't know what you're ( I'm) doing when it comes to precisely aligning optics.  


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#146 zakry3323

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Posted 04 December 2019 - 09:53 AM

That dovetail does not have the hole pattern of TP06 or TP013.

You're absolutely right- it looks like they've modified an existing-stock anodized plate to fit the different risers appropriately. 


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#147 thelosttrek

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Posted 04 December 2019 - 12:48 PM

Sorry to be slightly off topic, but would I be making a poor choice by canceling my order and going with something like the WO GT81mm or the SW 80mm? They appear to sell both flatteners and reducers that work without modifying the scope. Thoughts?

#148 zakry3323

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Posted 04 December 2019 - 01:06 PM

Sorry to be slightly off topic, but would I be making a poor choice by canceling my order and going with something like the WO GT81mm or the SW 80mm? They appear to sell both flatteners and reducers that work without modifying the scope. Thoughts?

That depends on a lot of factors. It looks like you're hunting around for a camera as well....so I'd probably get a short list of otas and cameras based upon what you want to photograph, what your mount can support, and what your typical seeing conditions are, then go with what makes the most sense within your budget. If you're not considering shooting full-frame at least at some point, there really isn't much reason to go with the 3SV over the 25SV.


Edited by zakry3323, 04 December 2019 - 01:32 PM.

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#149 sink45ny

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Posted 04 December 2019 - 01:44 PM

I shall now begin to make my 4 part 6 hour unboxing videos. LOL

 

20191204 134059

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#150 sink45ny

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Posted 04 December 2019 - 02:30 PM

20191204 142112
 
20191204 142432
 
Can someone please tell me where to find the serial# on this scope?

Edited by sink45ny, 04 December 2019 - 03:41 PM.

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