Jump to content

  •  

CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. Donation is not required by any means, so please enjoy your stay.

Photo

Mr Magoo's Cave

  • Please log in to reply
109 replies to this topic

#26 DAVIDG

DAVIDG

    Cosmos

  • *****
  • Posts: 8334
  • Joined: 02 Dec 2004
  • Loc: Hockessin, De

Posted 02 December 2018 - 10:44 AM

 There are couple of things that optics made of Cervit will have. The classic brown orange color to the glass, the sides and back will be fine ground and the "smoking gun" that it  is Cervit is  that  a laser  will be visible inside the glass. It will look like shiny a laser into the sky on  a humid night were the beam is easily visible in the air.

    Here is  a picture of a piece on Cervit I have with a  laser shining on it to show what I'm describing.

 

                   Happy Holidays,

                     - Dave 

 

  cervit.jpg                 


  • Mr Magoo, bremms, Bomber Bob and 1 other like this

#27 Geo31

Geo31

    Voyager 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 10275
  • Joined: 28 Jan 2013
  • Loc: Willis, TX

Posted 02 December 2018 - 10:49 AM

So looking at the picture of what is remaining of the Dec drive/tangent arm, can someone tell me what I am missing for this era of mount? Pictures if possible please! 

 

I do not know if it is the correct one or not, but I did find an original Hurst DA,1 RPM, 5w motor for $16 so I took a chance and grabbed it. I was not sure if this one should have the Hurst or the Bristol in this spot. Thank you all!

I think it's all there except the motor and mount.  I have the same mount, but it's still at my wife's old house, 20 minutes away.  If you still need pics when I can get by there, I'll snap some.  I may have some saved.  I'll check in a minute.


  • Mr Magoo likes this

#28 Mr Magoo

Mr Magoo

    Mercury-Atlas

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 2598
  • Joined: 05 Nov 2005
  • Loc: Indiana

Posted 02 December 2018 - 10:53 AM

I think it's all there except the motor and mount.  I have the same mount, but it's still at my wife's old house, 20 minutes away.  If you still need pics when I can get by there, I'll snap some.  I may have some saved.  I'll check in a minute.

Thanks George, pictures would be great. I will need to work out the control box. I no skills when it comes to electronics. Very basic wiring knowledge. Probably just enough to get me zapped! I sure do not want to smoke any components!



#29 DAVIDG

DAVIDG

    Cosmos

  • *****
  • Posts: 8334
  • Joined: 02 Dec 2004
  • Loc: Hockessin, De

Posted 02 December 2018 - 10:59 AM

 Hi Ken,

   I restored two Caves https://www.cloudyni...er-in-progress/ and the one had the same Dec assembly as  yours. You are  missing the motor, 1/2 of the shaft coupling and maybe the motor bracket. The motor that was used on my was  a Cramer 1 rpm reversible type but it can be replaced with a more common Hurst or modernized with DC or stepper.

    As for the counter weight. I had the same problem with the other Cave I restored. I couldn't get the set screw out , even with a can of penetrating oil and then a torch. I finally was able to twist the weight off. Once the weight was  off I was able to continue to turn the set screw inward until it finally come all the way through. I then ran tap down through the hole and used a new stainless steel set screw and plenty of grease.

 

                           - Dave 


  • Mr Magoo likes this

#30 Geo31

Geo31

    Voyager 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 10275
  • Joined: 28 Jan 2013
  • Loc: Willis, TX

Posted 02 December 2018 - 10:59 AM

Here is the best image I have at the moment.  It should help.  Again, I think you have everything but the motor and mounting bracket (and may even have that).

 

IB9Aisw.jpg


  • Mr Magoo likes this

#31 Geo31

Geo31

    Voyager 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 10275
  • Joined: 28 Jan 2013
  • Loc: Willis, TX

Posted 02 December 2018 - 11:01 AM

Shoot.  I just realized I have a pic of the wrong side.  Don't think I have pics of the other side as it's been sitting on this side as long as I can remember.



#32 Geo31

Geo31

    Voyager 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 10275
  • Joined: 28 Jan 2013
  • Loc: Willis, TX

Posted 02 December 2018 - 11:05 AM

Here's another view that has a little more to go on.  Not a great shot as it's a tight crop from when the mount was still in the back of my car:

 

SfMS7iL.jpg


  • Mr Magoo likes this

#33 DAVIDG

DAVIDG

    Cosmos

  • *****
  • Posts: 8334
  • Joined: 02 Dec 2004
  • Loc: Hockessin, De

Posted 02 December 2018 - 11:12 AM

 Here is how  I wired the Cave's I restored. This is different then what was originally  done but this is  much safer. The RA and DEC section of mount and hand paddle is grounded,   I used  a modern 3 prong power cord with a ground and fused the system at 1 amp.

 

            - Dave 

 

cavewiring.jpg


  • Mr Magoo, Geo31 and Bomber Bob like this

#34 Mr Magoo

Mr Magoo

    Mercury-Atlas

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 2598
  • Joined: 05 Nov 2005
  • Loc: Indiana

Posted 02 December 2018 - 12:17 PM

 There are couple of things that optics made of Cervit will have. The classic brown orange color to the glass, the sides and back will be fine ground and the "smoking gun" that it  is Cervit is  that  a laser  will be visible inside the glass. It will look like shiny a laser into the sky on  a humid night were the beam is easily visible in the air.

    Here is  a picture of a piece on Cervit I have with a  laser shining on it to show what I'm describing.

 

                   Happy Holidays,

                     - Dave 

 

  attachicon.gif cervit.jpg                

Well, it seems to pass the tests. A few pictures. Laser test first. 

 

IMG_2139.JPG


Edited by Mr Magoo, 02 December 2018 - 12:17 PM.


#35 Mr Magoo

Mr Magoo

    Mercury-Atlas

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 2598
  • Joined: 05 Nov 2005
  • Loc: Indiana

Posted 02 December 2018 - 12:18 PM

The back in not fine ground though. 

 

IMG_2136.JPG



#36 Mr Magoo

Mr Magoo

    Mercury-Atlas

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 2598
  • Joined: 05 Nov 2005
  • Loc: Indiana

Posted 02 December 2018 - 12:20 PM

I gave it a bath today. Some coating loss probably from critters, but not terrible. Another edge shot. 

 

IMG_2138.JPG


  • L. Regira, Geo31 and Bomber Bob like this

#37 Mr Magoo

Mr Magoo

    Mercury-Atlas

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 2598
  • Joined: 05 Nov 2005
  • Loc: Indiana

Posted 02 December 2018 - 12:30 PM

 Hi Ken,

   I restored two Caves https://www.cloudyni...er-in-progress/ and the one had the same Dec assembly as  yours. You are  missing the motor, 1/2 of the shaft coupling and maybe the motor bracket. The motor that was used on my was  a Cramer 1 rpm reversible type but it can be replaced with a more common Hurst or modernized with DC or stepper.

    As for the counter weight. I had the same problem with the other Cave I restored. I couldn't get the set screw out , even with a can of penetrating oil and then a torch. I finally was able to twist the weight off. Once the weight was  off I was able to continue to turn the set screw inward until it finally come all the way through. I then ran tap down through the hole and used a new stainless steel set screw and plenty of grease.

 

                           - Dave 

The motor I got is instantly reversible according to specs. 

 

There is no set screw down in there. Just frozen on. Can I pull the shaft out from the weight end? I'm going to have to start looking through past threads to see how all of this comes apart. 



#38 Mr Magoo

Mr Magoo

    Mercury-Atlas

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 2598
  • Joined: 05 Nov 2005
  • Loc: Indiana

Posted 02 December 2018 - 12:32 PM

Here's another view that has a little more to go on.  Not a great shot as it's a tight crop from when the mount was still in the back of my car:

 

SfMS7iL.jpg

It is a little hard for me to tell, but that looks like what I have. I need to get a close up of the end of the worm. It has some odd gear on it. 



#39 Mr Magoo

Mr Magoo

    Mercury-Atlas

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 2598
  • Joined: 05 Nov 2005
  • Loc: Indiana

Posted 02 December 2018 - 12:47 PM

A couple more of the worm. Is the gear on the end normal?

 

IMG_2140.JPG

 

IMG_2141-001.JPG

 


  • terraclarke likes this

#40 Geo31

Geo31

    Voyager 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 10275
  • Joined: 28 Jan 2013
  • Loc: Willis, TX

Posted 02 December 2018 - 01:02 PM

I believe that is just a coupler, not a gear.  I think if it were a gear it would be beveled.


  • Mr Magoo likes this

#41 Geo31

Geo31

    Voyager 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 10275
  • Joined: 28 Jan 2013
  • Loc: Willis, TX

Posted 02 December 2018 - 01:05 PM

None of these look like what you have, so they are not original type, but plenty of choices for what could work:

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/coupler

 

I'll check mine to see what it had on it.  I wouldn't keep your hopes up, but if I do have a matching coupling, it's yours.


  • Mr Magoo likes this

#42 Mr Magoo

Mr Magoo

    Mercury-Atlas

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 2598
  • Joined: 05 Nov 2005
  • Loc: Indiana

Posted 02 December 2018 - 01:25 PM

So it looks like all I need to do is make a backing plate, get a coupler,  and make a hand box. One of the flexible couplers may be a good idea. I see McMaster has them in plastic, aluminum, and stainless. I'm not sure if the plastic one or the aluminum might be better. The small Logic Drive motors use one of these. 



#43 DAVIDG

DAVIDG

    Cosmos

  • *****
  • Posts: 8334
  • Joined: 02 Dec 2004
  • Loc: Hockessin, De

Posted 02 December 2018 - 01:57 PM

Ken,

   If you have the motor, your also going to need a non polarized capacitor rated at 250 volts or more. The value you need should be written on the motor. Usually they are around 0.5 uf ( micro farads). It goes in the hand paddle and  is wired to two momentary contact normally open push button switches.  Depending on which switch you push determines  which coil in the motor is leading vs following  (phase shift ) and that determines  which way the motor turns.  The capacitor and the windings in motor cause a time delay in the AC sine wave so depending on which coil is connected to the capacitor, determines which one is lagging behind  the other. 

   As for the  counter weight stuck on the shaft, after the soaking with penetrating oil  and the torch didn't work, I think I remember using a block of wood against  the weight and hitting it with a  hammer, both up and down. That got it loosen enough that I was able to twist it back and forth and get it off. 

 

           - Dave 


  • Mr Magoo likes this

#44 Defenderslideguitar

Defenderslideguitar

    Viking 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 852
  • Joined: 05 Oct 2016
  • Loc: Connecticut

Posted 02 December 2018 - 04:25 PM

 Love  PB Blaster    way different than the liquid wrench or 3 in1 oil we used as a youth

I have found that PB Blaster removed rust    kind of turns it into red brown liquid  and it drools away


  • Mr Magoo, TOM KIEHL, Bomber Bob and 1 other like this

#45 TOM KIEHL

TOM KIEHL

    Aurora

  • *****
  • Posts: 4826
  • Joined: 17 Nov 2012

Posted 02 December 2018 - 04:54 PM

This is interesting scratchhead2.gif    https://www.youtube....h?v=xUEob2oAKVs


  • Mr Magoo, PaulEK and Defenderslideguitar like this

#46 DAVIDG

DAVIDG

    Cosmos

  • *****
  • Posts: 8334
  • Joined: 02 Dec 2004
  • Loc: Hockessin, De

Posted 02 December 2018 - 05:18 PM

 There is another  trick not shown in the video, the candle wax trick. You heat the rusty bolt hot enough that candle wax will melt when touched to the threads. The wax is pulled down into the threads. Once cooled it lubricates the rusty part. 

    Also heating the part and applying a penetrating oil helps in the same way since it pulls the oil down into the part. If you do that just be careful since many of the penetrating oil are flammable.

   I do agree with the video, a torch is your friend and most of the time getting the part good and  hot will loosen it. It expands the part and the flame will react with the rust and help break the bond to the parts.

 

                    - Dave 


  • pbealo, TOM KIEHL and Defenderslideguitar like this

#47 CHASLX200

CHASLX200

    Hubble

  • *****
  • Posts: 15661
  • Joined: 29 Sep 2007
  • Loc: Tampa area Florida

Posted 02 December 2018 - 06:14 PM

Maybe it is a allen head stuck down in the hole. You could also drill it out and retap.



#48 Defenderslideguitar

Defenderslideguitar

    Viking 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 852
  • Joined: 05 Oct 2016
  • Loc: Connecticut

Posted 02 December 2018 - 06:35 PM

the you tube video was great 

  some folks have to much time on their hands

    That's not my grandfather's liquid wrench BTW

        The candle wax trick is new to me and novel thanks


  • TOM KIEHL likes this

#49 terraclarke

terraclarke

    Hubble

  • *****
  • Posts: 18114
  • Joined: 29 May 2012
  • Loc: Third from the Sun

Posted 02 December 2018 - 07:18 PM

Congratulations Ken! That will be quite something when you get it all spiffied up! A real beauty!


  • Mr Magoo and TOM KIEHL like this

#50 Mr Magoo

Mr Magoo

    Mercury-Atlas

  • *****
  • topic starter
  • Posts: 2598
  • Joined: 05 Nov 2005
  • Loc: Indiana

Posted 02 December 2018 - 07:24 PM

Maybe it is a allen head stuck down in the hole. You could also drill it out and retap.

There is nothing down in the hole except bare threads. 




CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. Donation is not required by any means, so please enjoy your stay.


Recent Topics






Cloudy Nights LLC
Cloudy Nights Sponsor: Astronomics