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Restoring a Criterion Dynascope Deluxe Mount

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#101 mfoose

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Posted 18 January 2019 - 10:42 PM

I went down the road to a store with a small hardware section and bought a new bolt that would fit. Covered the bolt lightly with WD-40 and carefully tightened it in the threads. Only one side is threaded so it didn't take long. It was tough at first, but got easier as I continued. I just went back and forth a few times in each thread and it was fine.

Thanks for pointing that out while the paint wasn't cured!
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#102 mfoose

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Posted 19 January 2019 - 07:49 AM

Unfortunately due to the winter storm about to hit us I am unable to braze today and I won't have an open time for a while few weeks.

#103 mfoose

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Posted 19 January 2019 - 01:27 PM

In the mean time I can work on getting the the setting circles back to their original beauty.

What's the best way to restore aluminum setting circles?

I also need to work on the setting circle pointers. I have the RA pointer, but because of the unique DEC slo-mo housing I don't have a DEC pointer. I would like to have a matching pair so I'll probably need to make new setting circle pointers. Any thoughts on this?

#104 DAVIDG

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Posted 19 January 2019 - 07:16 PM

  If you can spin them as in a lathe that will make it easy.  I've done a couple like yours and I start with a Scotch Bright pad, and using it wet. With aluminium that  will gets  you to a decent shine, then I switch to  a cloth and  car rubbing compound.That should get you to  a mirror finish.  The numbers and lines are then filled in with paint using a Lacquer-Stik. Then I  spray over then with clear paint.  

   A mirrored finish or very shiny one looks great in the daytime but it can make reading the circles at night difficult. So if you plan to using the circles  to find objects at night, test out the finish to be sure that when you shine a light on them in the dark that  you can easily read them.

 

                 - Dave 



#105 Geo31

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Posted 19 January 2019 - 07:39 PM

Try NevR Dull.



#106 mfoose

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 02:40 PM

Well it has been about a month since my last post. Progress has been frustratingly slow. I have not been able to braze the cracks yet. I was going to last Saturday, but unfortunately other things got in the way. My car needed to be inspected and needed the brakes to be replaced in order to pass. So rather than work on the mount, I had to work on my car. Hopefully I will be able to braze within the month. 

 

I turned my attention to the setting circles, but my friend who has a lathe wants to wait until it is warmer. I cleaned them up a bit by hand, but they are just waiting until it gets warmer. 

 

I did get my 12v DC motor and PWM contoller in the mail so I need to work on that soon. I have another friend who is a tech teacher from a local High School and he has a small shop in his house so I will work on the electronics with him. It is good to have friends who have shops.

 

In the mean time I am switching my immediate focus to the tripod and counterweight. The couterweight is around 20lbs and the tension bolt is frozen in its threads. I had some WD-40 so I tried that yesterday and let it sit overnight. No dice. So, I went to the store today and picked up some PB Blaster and just hit the bolt as best as I can. I'll try it again later today. Once the bolt is free I plain on stripping the paint, priming, put on a light black base, and then use the black VHT. The pier cap looks great now, so I will keep using that same method.

 

The tripod legs are in rough shape. Multiple cracks in key areas and overall just poor condition. I don't have the infamous bell pier that the tripod can slip into and I don't think anyone who owns one wants to give it up. Since I am going to replace the legs anyways, I am going to make the replacements wider and longer. At least those are my current thoughts. The tripod base sits about 18" above the ground when extended. I have read reports from Dynascope Deluxe owners that their OTAs get close to the ground at certain angles. 

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#107 mfoose

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 02:47 PM

I am not sure how high to make the legs. Right now my thoughts are to make them like 30" long and try it out. If I don't like the length I can always cut them down to what I like. I would also like to add a spreader close to the ground to help with stability. I would love to have it be a triangle spreader that could hold the drive corrector and power supply off the ground. I would also have the legs be wider. Currently, at the top of the tripod legs the width is 1 7/8". I would like to make that 2.5". The last picture below has two 2.5" pieces of popsicle sticks showing that I have enough room for 2.5" wide legs at the top. 

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#108 mfoose

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 02:50 PM

Here are some pictures of the tripod head. Thought I would post them since it is so unique. There is a side to side adjuster bar that is silver in the pictures. This was added by a previous owner so I am leaving it on.

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#109 1958Criterion

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 12:53 PM

In the mean time I can work on getting the the setting circles back to their original beauty.

What's the best way to restore aluminum setting circles?

I also need to work on the setting circle pointers. I have the RA pointer, but because of the unique DEC slo-mo housing I don't have a DEC pointer. I would like to have a matching pair so I'll probably need to make new setting circle pointers. Any thoughts on this?

I am also missing the DEC pointer for my 1959 De Luxe Dynascope mount. I wonder if 3-D printing would be an option. There's no reason that the pointer would have to be made out of aluminum. 

 

Rob Williams

Tallahassee, Florida


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#110 mfoose

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 01:18 PM

Right now I am thinking about using aluminum as a riser and then use a small window of plexiglass over the setting circle to designate the coordinates. I'd do this for both so they are matching. Of course, that's what I am thinking now and could change.



#111 apfever

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 03:19 PM

Using a plexi window as a pointer would allow you to make a Vernier scale using fine lines. It would be a trick addition.




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