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Nikon D5300 questions..!

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#1 betelgeuse91

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Posted 12 December 2018 - 03:09 AM

I have been using a Baader-modded Canon 450d with APT for astrophotography. It has been a great first camera for this hobby but I find that this camera to be little bit outdated now. 

 

I looked around cooled OSC astro cams with APS-C sensor like asi071 but they were a bit over my budget so I thought a more recently released DSLR would be a nice upgrade for a reasonable price for me. And I found that Nikon D5300 is a popular choice these days, just like Canon 450d in the past. 

 

Looking at D5300, I came up with few questions:

 

1. I see number of modded D5300 on classifieds but they are all full-spectrum mod. I use a refractor and I read that a full-spectrum camera can bloat stars on refractors. Do people buy an additional IR/UV cut filter for refractors this case? 

 

2. The field flattener/reducer I have has back focus of 55mm. This was reached with no problem with 450d's 44mm flange focal distance + 11mm T ring. But how do you make 55mm with D5300? Wikipedia says Nikon F mount has 46.5 mm of flange focal distance. Can you recommend me a T ring for this camera? How thick is it? 

 

3. Will this be a noticeable upgrade? Do you rather recommend saving up for a cooled camera like asi071 for the future? 

 

4. D5500 is available at almost the same price. Which one should I get if both are available in same price range? (I will be getting a modded one and it'll be used for astroimaging exclusively)

 

Thank you very much for reading the post and I will greatly appreciate any advise! 


Edited by betelgeuse91, 12 December 2018 - 03:44 AM.


#2 nicknacknock

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Posted 12 December 2018 - 04:20 AM

1. In a full spectrum modification all filters are removed and hence a external UV / IR cut filter or other filter which incorporates a UV/IR cut is always required.

 

2. You will need a Nikon to T2 flange and necessary T2 extensions to cover the distance from 46.5mm to 55mm ( 8.5mm). Such adapters are widely available from many vendors and also Amazon and AliExpress.

 

3. Can't answer that - I recently started EAA with the ASI294MCPro and I only use my D5500 for eclipse photography and timelapses.

 

4. D5500. Please see review. Key Reasons: Bit more dynamic range, color depth and Low light sensitivity.

 

Hope this helps!

 

P.S. There are Nikon F Mount flanges (the one that fits both these cameras) to M48 (2" thread) if more convenient for you.



#3 betelgeuse91

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Posted 12 December 2018 - 04:34 AM

1. In a full spectrum modification all filters are removed and hence a external UV / IR cut filter or other filter which incorporates a UV/IR cut is always required.

 

2. You will need a Nikon to T2 flange and necessary T2 extensions to cover the distance from 46.5mm to 55mm ( 8.5mm). Such adapters are widely available from many vendors and also Amazon and AliExpress.

 

3. Can't answer that - I recently started EAA with the ASI294MCPro and I only use my D5500 for eclipse photography and timelapses.

 

4. D5500. Please see review. Key Reasons: Bit more dynamic range, color depth and Low light sensitivity.

 

Hope this helps!

 

P.S. There are Nikon F Mount flanges (the one that fits both these cameras) to M48 (2" thread) if more convenient for you.

This is very helpful. Thank you for the comment!



#4 Merk

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Posted 12 December 2018 - 07:02 AM

Hi there, I own a nikon d5300 and believe that it will be a significant upgrade from the canon 450d. You can see some of my pictures with it in my flickr page.

 

Now is it better to wait and buy a cooled cmos, it all depends on the price. If you find one around 400-450 dollars I think it is ok. If more then maybe waiting for 

a used cooled cmos  is a better solution. 

 

As for cooling I made my own cheap solution around 40 bucks. Also consider that an external power adapter is really nice investment so another 40 bucks.

 

Cooling is not perfect but it gets the camera about 10-15 Celsius down from ambient which is a significant help, but you have no control over it (so darks are tricky like every dslr).

 

Bottom line: a good deal for it is certainly worth it. Here is a picture from my cooling project, any questions ask.

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#5 betelgeuse91

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Posted 12 December 2018 - 12:07 PM

Hi there, I own a nikon d5300 and believe that it will be a significant upgrade from the canon 450d. You can see some of my pictures with it in my flickr page.

 

Now is it better to wait and buy a cooled cmos, it all depends on the price. If you find one around 400-450 dollars I think it is ok. If more then maybe waiting for 

a used cooled cmos  is a better solution. 

 

As for cooling I made my own cheap solution around 40 bucks. Also consider that an external power adapter is really nice investment so another 40 bucks.

 

Cooling is not perfect but it gets the camera about 10-15 Celsius down from ambient which is a significant help, but you have no control over it (so darks are tricky like every dslr).

 

Bottom line: a good deal for it is certainly worth it. Here is a picture from my cooling project, any questions ask.

I heard about DIY dslr cooler before but gave up as 450d has a fixed screen, but I'd really like to consider trying this for d5300! 

 

Which parts did you use and how are you powering it? If you could share the links of the parts, it'll be a great help...! Thanks. 



#6 Merk

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Posted 12 December 2018 - 02:44 PM

I heard about DIY dslr cooler before but gave up as 450d has a fixed screen, but I'd really like to consider trying this for d5300! 

 

Which parts did you use and how are you powering it? If you could share the links of the parts, it'll be a great help...! Thanks. 

Hi there the parts are:

1) aluminium plate 5mm thick (measure so that you can bend it at 90 degrees and screw it at the bottom the camera at the screw socket for tripod)

 

2) An old cooler and fan from an old pc, or you can buy a new one(pc shop)

 

3) peltier cooler, I think it was 72 watt (60 is fine also, you just put the cooling side on the  aluminium plate and the other on the cooler) (ebay)

 

4) thermal paste for better thermal conductivity. (pc shop)

 

5) A 7A 12V power supply (ebay)

 

6) power supply had the adapter to put the wires of the peltier cooler and the fan.

 

7) headless screws for attaching the plate to the cooler and of course duck tape! (make holes on the 5mm plate so that the head of the screws are hidden)

I believe in USA you can find all these at stores and in good prices, no need for ebay.



#7 betelgeuse91

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Posted 12 December 2018 - 07:30 PM

Hi there the parts are:

1) aluminium plate 5mm thick (measure so that you can bend it at 90 degrees and screw it at the bottom the camera at the screw socket for tripod)

 

2) An old cooler and fan from an old pc, or you can buy a new one(pc shop)

 

3) peltier cooler, I think it was 72 watt (60 is fine also, you just put the cooling side on the  aluminium plate and the other on the cooler) (ebay)

 

4) thermal paste for better thermal conductivity. (pc shop)

 

5) A 7A 12V power supply (ebay)

 

6) power supply had the adapter to put the wires of the peltier cooler and the fan.

 

7) headless screws for attaching the plate to the cooler and of course duck tape! (make holes on the 5mm plate so that the head of the screws are hidden)

I believe in USA you can find all these at stores and in good prices, no need for ebay.

Thank you so much for sharing. I really appreciate it.



#8 niccoc1603

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Posted 13 December 2018 - 02:26 AM

I heard about DIY dslr cooler before but gave up as 450d has a fixed screen, but I'd really like to consider trying this for d5300!

Which parts did you use and how are you powering it? If you could share the links of the parts, it'll be a great help...! Thanks.

Hey very interesting, can you post a link to the eBay peltier cooler you use?

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#9 Merk

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Posted 13 December 2018 - 04:31 AM

Hey very interesting, can you post a link to the eBay peltier cooler you use?

Inviato dal mio BTV-DL09 utilizzando Tapatalk

Here i found my ebay order, it no longer excists, the item is this

 

TEC1-12706 Heatsink Thermoelectric Cooler Cooling Peltier Plate Module 12V 60W A

 

here is a link https://www.ebay.co....cDRyK:rk:1:pf:0



#10 betelgeuse91

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Posted 13 December 2018 - 09:06 AM

Here i found my ebay order, it no longer excists, the item is this

 

TEC1-12706 Heatsink Thermoelectric Cooler Cooling Peltier Plate Module 12V 60W A

 

here is a link https://www.ebay.co....cDRyK:rk:1:pf:0

Hey, where does the duct tape go and what kind of power source are you using?

 

Thanks a lot!



#11 jallbery

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Posted 13 December 2018 - 09:29 AM

 

2. The field flattener/reducer I have has back focus of 55mm. This was reached with no problem with 450d's 44mm flange focal distance + 11mm T ring. But how do you make 55mm with D5300? Wikipedia says Nikon F mount has 46.5 mm of flange focal distance. Can you recommend me a T ring for this camera? How thick is it? 

 

In, general if you have something that gives you the proper back focus with a Canon T-ring, remove the Canon ring and install a Nikon T-ring, and you'll have the proper back focus for a Nikon SLR/DSLR.   That's the whole point of the T-mount:  you could swap t-rings and use the same lens on different SLR camera bodies (of course, this was back in the old days before lenses had electronics in them) and infinity focus would still be infinity focus.   55mm happens to be the required flange to focal plane distance for the T-mount.   A proper T-ring for a given mount should have the required thickness to pad the camera's flange to focal plane distance to the T-standard.   In other words, a Canon T-ring is a 2.5mm thicker than a Nikon one.

 

Here's a page of Kenko T-rings.  Note that the mirrorless mounts are all substantially longer, due to the fact that these cameras have really short flange to sensor distances.

 http://www.kenkoglob...00x598-4214.jpg


Edited by jallbery, 13 December 2018 - 09:58 AM.


#12 Merk

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Posted 13 December 2018 - 09:50 AM

Hey, where does the duct tape go and what kind of power source are you using?

 

Thanks a lot!

Hi there, the duct tape is for the wires to cover them after finishing the assembly. 

 

Here is a link to a power source https://www.ebay.co....4:rk:1:pf:0

 

You just choose the 7A or 6A will do. You need 5A for the peltier cooler and very little for the fan, but it doesn't matter if you have more.

 

peltier cooler uses 12V and 5A that means 12x5=60W

 

Don't know about the USA voltage.. you have 110 volts? we have 240 . Ask the seller if you can use it for USA sockets



#13 betelgeuse91

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Posted 13 December 2018 - 08:50 PM

Hi there, the duct tape is for the wires to cover them after finishing the assembly. 

 

Here is a link to a power source https://www.ebay.co....4:rk:1:pf:0

 

You just choose the 7A or 6A will do. You need 5A for the peltier cooler and very little for the fan, but it doesn't matter if you have more.

 

peltier cooler uses 12V and 5A that means 12x5=60W

 

Don't know about the USA voltage.. you have 110 volts? we have 240 . Ask the seller if you can use it for USA sockets

Thanks so much for help!



#14 niccoc1603

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 01:09 PM

Since your peltier cooler is touching the plastic case of the camera, I am wondering how effective it is in cooling down the sensor ?

#15 betelgeuse91

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 02:47 PM

Since your peltier cooler is touching the plastic case of the camera, I am wondering how effective it is in cooling down the sensor ?

He mentioned above that it cools about 10~15 degrees below ambient.



#16 niccoc1603

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 04:25 PM

Yes but the plastic, not the chip inside

#17 betelgeuse91

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 06:17 PM

Yes but the plastic, not the chip inside

Wouldn't he have meant the chip inside? Other dslr coolers seem to do about the same for the sensor. 


Edited by betelgeuse91, 14 December 2018 - 06:19 PM.


#18 Michael Covington

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 06:28 PM

All T-rings have exactly 55mm flange focal distance.  They were created for a line of Tamron lenses in the early 1960s, to allow the same manual-focus lenses to fit different cameras.  So they all focus alike.



#19 betelgeuse91

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Posted 15 December 2018 - 12:12 AM

In, general if you have something that gives you the proper back focus with a Canon T-ring, remove the Canon ring and install a Nikon T-ring, and you'll have the proper back focus for a Nikon SLR/DSLR.   That's the whole point of the T-mount:  you could swap t-rings and use the same lens on different SLR camera bodies (of course, this was back in the old days before lenses had electronics in them) and infinity focus would still be infinity focus.   55mm happens to be the required flange to focal plane distance for the T-mount.   A proper T-ring for a given mount should have the required thickness to pad the camera's flange to focal plane distance to the T-standard.   In other words, a Canon T-ring is a 2.5mm thicker than a Nikon one.

 

Here's a page of Kenko T-rings.  Note that the mirrorless mounts are all substantially longer, due to the fact that these cameras have really short flange to sensor distances.

 http://www.kenkoglob...00x598-4214.jpg

 

All T-rings have exactly 55mm flange focal distance.  They were created for a line of Tamron lenses in the early 1960s, to allow the same manual-focus lenses to fit different cameras.  So they all focus alike.

I see... That's an interesting fact to know. Thank you.



#20 Merk

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Posted 15 December 2018 - 04:52 AM

Since your peltier cooler is touching the plastic case of the camera, I am wondering how effective it is in cooling down the sensor ?

Don't know how mush the temperature of the sensor drops, but if you see the 2 stretched darks you can see the difference.

 

Also I read in a book that a few degrees difference (3-5 don't remember exactly) drops the noise by a factor of 2. So even if sensor only drops 5 degrees that

means I have the half noise. 

 

In summer it makes a big difference. Sure it is not compared with a cooled cmos but it only costs 40 dollars or even less (20 dollars)  if you can find some items free (old pc cooler and aluminium plate)



#21 betelgeuse91

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Posted 15 December 2018 - 07:15 AM

Hi there, the duct tape is for the wires to cover them after finishing the assembly. 

 

Here is a link to a power source https://www.ebay.co....4:rk:1:pf:0

 

You just choose the 7A or 6A will do. You need 5A for the peltier cooler and very little for the fan, but it doesn't matter if you have more.

 

peltier cooler uses 12V and 5A that means 12x5=60W

 

Don't know about the USA voltage.. you have 110 volts? we have 240 . Ask the seller if you can use it for USA sockets

Hey sorry for so many questions but may I ask you which battery you use to power this?

 

I don't have a proper battery yet so I might need to get one when I make this cooler. Thanks so much for the response!



#22 niccoc1603

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Posted 15 December 2018 - 09:37 AM

Don't know how mush the temperature of the sensor drops, but if you see the 2 stretched darks you can see the difference.

Also I read in a book that a few degrees difference (3-5 don't remember exactly) drops the noise by a factor of 2. So even if sensor only drops 5 degrees that
means I have the half noise.

In summer it makes a big difference. Sure it is not compared with a cooled cmos but it only costs 40 dollars or even less (20 dollars) if you can find some items free (old pc cooler and aluminium plate)

What about the vibrations induced by the fan?

#23 Merk

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Posted 15 December 2018 - 02:22 PM

What about the vibrations induced by the fan?

Don't have any problem. Also I changed the first fan I used with a new low noise and less rpm (so probably less vibration),

but didn't have any problem with the first fan just it made much noise.



#24 betelgeuse91

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 02:00 PM

Here i found my ebay order, it no longer excists, the item is this

 

TEC1-12706 Heatsink Thermoelectric Cooler Cooling Peltier Plate Module 12V 60W A

 

here is a link https://www.ebay.co....cDRyK:rk:1:pf:0

5A just for the cooler sounds like quite a bit. May I ask you what kind of battery you use?




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