887 replies to this topic

[Akinetopsia]

Typically most subs times with this unit are in the 40 second range unguided, with a relatively short scope like a 60mm with an APS-C sensor. Some get longer, others shorter unguided, which puts it in SkyGuider Pro/Star Adventurer territory. No doubt for AP work you need to autoguide with this rig.

 

Interesting. I dunno how i managed unguided ~80s exposures that one time if that's the case.

 

 

 

 

There is an issue with the electronics/mechanics where every Nth frame goes off kilter and is a tosser, some folks here have ripped out the electronics and replaced them to compensate for it, and they also replace the bearings while they're at it. This is essentially like going in for a heart transplant and a hip replacement, but some folks here are that much the tinkerers.
 

Hmm, i'll keep an eye out for this next time i'm out in the field, i havent noticed anything out of the ordinary but i had other issues - now that everything should be back in order, i'll be able to gather more info on the mount's  quirks.

> but some folks here are that much the tinkerers.


The Venn diagram of "people picking backyard astronomy" and "tinkerers" is probably a circle.

Edited by Akinetopsia, 25 October 2023 - 10:05 AM.

[vidrazor]

Interesting. I dunno how i managed unguided ~80s exposures that one time if that's the case.

Hmm, i'll keep an eye out for this next time i'm out in the field, i havent noticed anything out of the ordinary but i had other issues - now that everything should be back in order, i'll be able to gather more info on the mount's  quirks.

Well, 80 seconds is still SGP/SA territory. As I said, some get more time, some less.

 

If you read back through this thread, you'll see posts of the electronics swap.

[wachuko]

Had to modify the bolt's head so they would fit... 

 

 

Done and now mounted.

 

 

 

Again, thank you for providing the files for this mount adapter.  Simply outstanding!

[Akinetopsia]

Had to modify the bolt's head so they would fit...

 

Ah, you used knurled head screws -- good thing you have a lathe (of which i'm jealous of a little
That's a little bit my fault. I showed a type of knurled head screw on the thingiverse "bill of materials" drawing, but actually used regular screws for that plate. I'll update the tolerances to accommodate the wider knurled heads.

 

Glad you like it!

[wachuko]

I am loving this setup.  So far I have only done manual use of the mount.  So not even powered at all... I need to build a small observation platform in the backyard... for now, we just setup everything in the lanai and watch from there.

 

I want to practice the polar alignment next and also test the GoTo with tracking of a planet.

 

Last night we were watching (not from our bedroom, of course) the moon and Jupiter!  Pretty amazing views!! 

 

I had the clutch disengaged and was manually tracking as Jupiter was moving.  So cool!!!

 

 

Edited by wachuko, 28 October 2023 - 11:23 AM.

[wachuko]

I do understand now the comments on the tripod being the weak link when it comes to additional weight on the mount.  I probably should get a better tripod next.  No amount of tightening this and that, makes it more sturdy... 

 

Maybe ordering the Losmandy HD tripod since I know I will end up ordering a G11G next year... 

[Akinetopsia]

oh wait --  it's the 3 "B" screws that didn't fit around the body of the camera, right ? (sorry, it's been a minute i haven't touched that design -- i just remembered i did not recess any screw heads, only the captive nuts)

in any case, as those are going through the aluminum base of the camera itself there's not much i can do about it I do remember now it was a close fit with regular socket heads. I'll clarify the thingiverse page. Thx for the feedback!

[Akinetopsia]

On the tripod topic, when i made that replacement hub I accounted for the possibility that i'd replace the tripod's screw knob that locks the mount with a longer threaded rod that would go all the way through the center of that hub. (we can see the second image where i left a cylindrical hole - it's capped on that version as it was just a quick replacement and I never got to measure the threads) 

Adding an extra 90deg rigid triangle common to all legs could hopefully help with the twisting and maybe dampen the wobble.

 

 

Oh, while on the topic of 3d printed parts for the iEXOS, I forgot i made a replacement tripod spider hub as i broke mine one night.

[...]

Here's a quick mock-up of what i had in mind:

 

 

 

 

I don;t have the mount at hand as i leave it at the family property since i live in the city, but i think i'll bring it next time and go to home depot or something and make sure i get the right threads Someone mentioned it's probably M10

 

One issue doing this is that it would distribute more load to the spider arms (or whatever those are called), which are plastic and weren't designed for that. Moreover, i think that screw knob is not fully threaded, the part that goes through the mount to the handle is smaller in diameter and unthreaded, which would make it more complicated to do such a mod.

Edited by Akinetopsia, 28 October 2023 - 01:56 PM.

[wachuko]

oh wait --  it's the 3 "B" screws that didn't fit around the body of the camera, right ? (sorry, it's been a minute i haven't touched that design -- i just remembered i did not recess any screw heads, only the captive nuts)

in any case, as those are going through the aluminum base of the camera itself there's not much i can do about it I do remember now it was a close fit with regular socket heads. I'll clarify the thingiverse page. Thx for the feedback!

Correct.  Nothing you need to change on your design.  Issue was clearance between bolt head and body of camera.

 

Your design is fine. 

[Guelli]

Converted my iExos 100 to OnStep (CNC3 / ESP32 + LV8279). Finally butter smooth steppers without any wobble thanks to 128microsteps!

(Cover etc. is 3d printed)

Good night, Nemo

 

And how does this change impact performance?
Are you driving more accurately?
and in rms, how is she doing now?

 

thanks.

[Nemo0815]

Hi,

 

I just recently finished my 2nd conversion, still OnStep, but now on OnStepX + new TMC2209s for all 3 steppers I am using (DIY focuser + 2 axes).

Also switched from DSLR (Lumix S5 + Sigma 150-600) to SVBony 503 102mm refractor + SVBony SV405C + SVBony 160mm/F4 guide scope + SVBony SV305 Mono Guide CAM.

In addition I got the ES ST3 heavy duty tripod (but not tried it yet, but it is really much heavier and sturdier).

 

With that, I had to increase the counterweight quite a bit using the 2 original counter weights + additional 2,5 kgs.

 

Running Stellarmate on a Raspberry Pi 5 + GPS, powered by a 8000mAh 4S LiPo with 2 Step down converters (for 12V and 5V).

 

I had really big issues using the internal Guider of Ekos, but since switching to PHD2 it's like a dream, getting RMS ~0.5px in both axes I can do 5 minutes exposures with this setup without any issues.

 

 

 

 

This was my first light, sorry for the halos, had accidently chosen the wrong focal distance between reducer and sensor:

 

Edited by Nemo0815, 14 January 2024 - 05:19 AM.

[asanmax]

Hi,

 

I just recently finished my 2nd conversion, still OnStep, but now on OnStepX + new TMC2209s for all 3 steppers I am using (DIY focuser + 2 axes).

Also switched from DSLR (Lumix S5 + Sigma 150-600) to SVBony 503 102mm refractor + SVBony SV405C + SVBony 160mm/F4 guide scope + SVBony SV305 Mono Guide CAM.

In addition I got the ES ST3 heavy duty tripod (but not tried it yet, but it is really much heavier and sturdier).

 

With that, I had to increase the counterweight quite a bit using the 2 original counter weights + additional 2,5 kgs.

 

Running Stellarmate on a Raspberry Pi 5 + GPS, powered by a 8000mAh 4S LiPo with 2 Step down converters (for 12V and 5V).

 

I had really big issues using the internal Guider of Ekos, but since switching to PHD2 it's like a dream, getting RMS ~0.5px in both axes I can do 5 minutes exposures with this setup without any issues.

 

  Screenshot 2024-01-14 11.16.52.png

 

 

 

This was my first light, sorry for the halos, had accidently chosen the wrong focal distance between reducer and sensor:

 

 

Thanks for sharing. That's an impressive rig! I remember pushing that little mount with a C5 telescope and a DSLR/guide scope mounted on it and it still held up pretty well.

[Nemo0815]

Forgot to say, those RMS numbers above where without proper polar alignment (only put the rig roughly to the north where I had it last time, but wanted to see what PHD2 can do without being aligned)...