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Ready for the plunge

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#1 factaestlux

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 03:09 PM

Ok, I've made my decision, I'm going to get the Canon EOS M50. I know some may think this is not the right camera, but it will get me started, the price is reasonable and I want to also use it as a normal camera. I want to see how far this camera takes me in AP or I take it. I want to keep the load light on my mount and this fits the bill. It also has the latest processor, is mirrorless, and wifi/bluetooth/NFC. I have a Celestron AVX mount, and a Stellarvue 60 mm ED Refractor. Should I attach the camera to the diagonal, or directly in line with the scope? I understand I will need a T-adapter and maybe something else, not sure. Are there specific sizes and brands that will only work with this camera? I was going to start with the prime focus method of attachment because it seems simpler than using an eyepiece. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.



#2 zxx

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 03:17 PM

Without the diagonal ,yes you will need a T-adapter .



#3 photoracer18

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 03:22 PM

No diagonal with the camera. Without a guidescope you will be limited on what you image. Also unlikely to be able to do eyepiece projection either without one. Max might be a 2x Barlow in front of the camera. You will need some kind of focus aid also as you will be unable to focus on anything but bright objects (Moon, Sun with a filter, and a few of the larger planets).



#4 sg6

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 03:37 PM

No diagonal, t-piece and possibly what is termed a nosepiece - the t-piece may not attach direct to the scope. If you have one the flattener is useful and it likely acts as a nosepiece. So the money for one can go towards the other - check first.

 

The DSLR is likely to need an intervalometer, not sure if the wifi/bluetooth aspect can manage the same.

 

If you do not yet have the camera check that all functions can be turned off, or set manually.

Focus, ISO, Exposure duration, Noise reduction and I think one other.

 

They are making them more automatic and preventing the user doing anything.



#5 Stelios

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 05:20 PM

Ok, I've made my decision, I'm going to get the Canon EOS M50. I know some may think this is not the right camera, but it will get me started, the price is reasonable and I want to also use it as a normal camera. I want to see how far this camera takes me in AP or I take it. I want to keep the load light on my mount and this fits the bill. It also has the latest processor, is mirrorless, and wifi/bluetooth/NFC. I have a Celestron AVX mount, and a Stellarvue 60 mm ED Refractor. Should I attach the camera to the diagonal, or directly in line with the scope? I understand I will need a T-adapter and maybe something else, not sure. Are there specific sizes and brands that will only work with this camera? I was going to start with the prime focus method of attachment because it seems simpler than using an eyepiece. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

I don't know what price you found for this, a Nikon D5300 is a superior choice for astrophotography due to the low dark noise (very important), and under $400 for the body (and you *only* need the body for astrophotography). None of the "advantages" you quote matters even a bit for astrophotography. 

 

Regardless of the camera, you should definitely use prime focus (nobody really uses eyepiece projection), without the diagonal (depending on your focuser, you might need an extension tube). You'll need of course a T-ring and T-adapter. The T-ring is camera (usually brand)-specific, the T-adapter is not. 

 

For astrophotography, the best way to control the camera is from a laptop, with a program like Backyard EOS (or Backyard Nikon), though there are several more complex alternatives such as Sequence Generator Pro (SGP) and Astrophotography Tool (APT).  If you must use it without a laptop, then you'll need an intervalometer. 



#6 17.5Dob

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 06:22 PM

I don't know what price you found for this, a Nikon D5300 is a superior choice for astrophotography due to the low dark noise (very important), and under $400 for the body (and you *only* need the body for astrophotography). None of the "advantages" you quote matters even a bit for astrophotography. 

 

Regardless of the camera, you should definitely use prime focus (nobody really uses eyepiece projection), without the diagonal (depending on your focuser, you might need an extension tube). You'll need of course a T-ring and T-adapter. The T-ring is camera (usually brand)-specific, the T-adapter is not. 

 

For astrophotography, the best way to control the camera is from a laptop, with a program like Backyard EOS (or Backyard Nikon), though there are several more complex alternatives such as Sequence Generator Pro (SGP) and Astrophotography Tool (APT).  If you must use it without a laptop, then you'll need an intervalometer. 

 Doing a hasty glance at the noise charts, the EOS M50, does not look too bad, not as good as the Nikon D5300, but a lot better than the older Rebels.

What matters first and foremost is what kind of software is available for tethered computer control. If the "supported cameras" chart is correct in Backyard EOS, the most popular software for Canon users, the M50 is NOT supported .....


Edited by 17.5Dob, 14 December 2018 - 06:23 PM.


#7 nimitz69

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 07:12 PM

Just getting geared up as well ... picked up used ‘grade A’. (One step below ‘mint’ ) D5300 body only for $279, free shipping on eBay ... and there are plenty of others still available ...


Edited by nimitz69, 14 December 2018 - 07:12 PM.

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#8 17.5Dob

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 07:55 PM

Just getting geared up as well ... picked up used ‘grade A’. (One step below ‘mint’ ) D5300 body only for $279, free shipping on eBay ...

Yup, D5300's are an incredible deal, and have full Backyard Nikon software support to get started with. It's pretty much a "plug and play" system.



#9 factaestlux

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 08:30 PM

Thank you all for the replies....the plunge has been put on hold ...again. I'll have to check into the 5300 and maybe even the 5600. There's no rush; in the meantime I can continue to read Bracken and studying how drift alignment works.


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