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10" Starliner

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#76 paulabuls

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 11:56 PM

So here’s something weird. I haven’t gotten it apart yet (still waiting on pb blaster to work it’s magic) but the RA shaft seems to be 1.75 inches diameter at the end they connects with the DEC housing and the end protruding from the drive assy is 1.5 inches. I’m looking forward to getting it apart to see how it’s coupled.

#77 paulabuls

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 12:02 AM

Apfever, thanks for the data on the pier. I hadn’t been thinking quite that far ahead yet but will be soon. I’m actually pretty happy with how it’s coming together. Unfortunately, it’s about to slow down for a week or so as I attend to some work stuff.

#78 paulabuls

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 11:01 AM

Well, the RA shaft is fully disassembled. It's 1.75 inches in diameter but stepped down to 1.5 inches for the drive mount (I'll worry about sorting the drive mount out later). I'm glad the RA shaft is not going to have to be replaced! I imagine that stepped shaft would be pricey! The upper bearing is pretty rough. Once it's cleaned in solvent and I can see the races and balls better I'll be able to assess it but I imagine that one will need to be replaced. The lower bearing should clean up ok. The DEC shaft appears to have used thrust washers and I should have no trouble ordering those.

 

So the next step appears to be ordering the new DEC shaft and the cylinder for the Pier. Before I order that though, I want to give some thought to the legs; how I'm going to attach them and how I'll be able to adjust them. 

 

One approach would be to try and replicate something akin to the OEM design that would take a longer cylinder and might be trickier working out the legs. Another approach would be a cylinder just long enough to bolt to a wooden platform and then build a table for it sit on. 

 

Any thoughts???

 

 



#79 paulabuls

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 01:40 PM

I've been thinking about the whole base thing. I have an idea that would get me up and running, could look attractive and might be plenty stable. I want to get the experts opinion before I start cutting wood. The idea is to use 3/4" plywood, stacked and with a hole the correct diameter for the base of the mount. There would be a captive nut possibly in an inset hardwood block to hold the grubscrew for securing the mount to the base. This would set atop a triangular wooden base with captured 2x4s for legs. I'm not imagining the legs being more than 9 inches long and are used for leveling the base. The base would have slots that would allow for the raising and lowering of the legs to facilitate leveling. The interior space of the base would be strengthened with a shelf which would act as both a base and a storage space for EPs etc. I'm thinking the whole thing shouldn't need to be more than about 2 feet tall.

 

Thoughts? Am I off base on my thinking???

 

 

 

base

 



#80 paulabuls

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 05:18 PM

After I did a more scale drawing of what I had proposed. I don't think it will work. Here's where I am regarding the build. The critical things I need to get the scope appropriately back in lineconsist of the following. (This is without even considering the drive which is missing some significant pieces)

 

30" 1.75 diameter" steel rod for DEC shaft. Tool steel will run around $100, Stainless significantly more.

 

18" 6" nominal diameter, thin walled steel pipe for the Pier base. I'm having trouble finding steel pipe that meets the required dimensions. The inside diameter needs to be apx. 5.625. My best guess from what I can find of Pipe that is close but no cigar dimensionally is that I'll be looking at least $200.00 for that item. 

 

1 bearing for DEC shaft. 1.75" inside diameter. (The upper bearing is very rough. The lower bearing is fine). Apx $100

 

Then I will need to fabricate legs for the base. 

 

Even without taking into consideration the cost of fabricating legs for the base, We're looking at least $400.00 without even getting to the drive.

 

In the interest of having a working telescope (and recognizing that sourcing and fabricating parts for the GEM will tale a greater amount of money than my current budget will allow) I am now considering building a quick Dobsonian mount just so I can be using my scope. Then I can slowly work toward sourcing the parts and budgeting for the restoration of the Star Liner at a more leisurely pace.

 

I should be able to put a Dobsonian together for about $100 in no more than one or two weekends. The OTA is basically ready to go as soon as I have a mount. I still want to have a restored GEM but also want to be able to start observing a little more quickly.

 

Cheers,

 

Paula

 

 

 



#81 Geo31

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 05:25 PM

 

18" 6" nominal diameter, thin walled steel pipe for the Pier base. I'm having trouble finding steel pipe that meets the required dimensions. The inside diameter needs to be apx. 5.625. My best guess from what I can find of Pipe that is close but no cigar dimensionally is that I'll be looking at least $200.00 for that item. 

 

 

Are you looking at pipe or tubing?  You may need to look at tubing.  Similar, but different.  Pipe is nominally sized on the ID.  Tubing is nominally sized on the OD.



#82 clamchip

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 06:02 PM

This book should help and it has plans for a 10 inch f/6 Dobsonian:

http://www.willbell.com/tm/tm2.htm

Maybe build the mount if it's adaptable to your tube, I bet it is.

And then what you really need is a parts mount to come along.

 

Robert



#83 paulabuls

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 06:40 PM

Thanks Robert. That looks like a great resource. Once I can put ads on the classified (They restrict you for 30 days) I can perhaps put a wanted ad out. A parts mount would be exactly what I need.

 

Cheers,

 

Paula



#84 Geo31

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 08:16 PM

Paula, I think it's a smart move to take this slowly.  I full-on restoration would probably not be worth it (but I should talk).  However, some judicious selection of items to complete the GEM mount will get you a really nice equatorially mounted scope.  Do the Dob, but keep moving forward at whatever speed works on the mount.

 

BTW, some close-ups of the drive gear would be beneficial.  We may be able to identify the drive gear and thus, what sort of worm you need.



#85 paulabuls

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Posted 08 January 2019 - 09:41 AM

Paula, I think it's a smart move to take this slowly.  I full-on restoration would probably not be worth it (but I should talk).  However, some judicious selection of items to complete the GEM mount will get you a really nice equatorially mounted scope.  Do the Dob, but keep moving forward at whatever speed works on the mount.

 

BTW, some close-ups of the drive gear would be beneficial.  We may be able to identify the drive gear and thus, what sort of worm you need.

Hi George,

 

The drive is currently disassembled. I'll post pictures when I'm able. I'm pretty certain from close examination that the drive is a older version of the OpticCraft Polaris. The only difference I see is that mine is using a Hurst Motor rated at 2 RPM not the 1 RPM shown in the specs. It does indicate that different ratios are available on request. The mounting plate looks identical.

 

What is missing is the pillow blocks for the worm gear, the worm gear, the pinion gear mounted directly on the motor and the intermediary gear between that and the worm gear.

 

I'll send photos when able.

 

Again, thanks for all the help.

 

Cheers,

 

Paula



#86 Geo31

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Posted 08 January 2019 - 10:29 AM

The downside is, OpticCraft seems to be out of business, but, we should be able to figure out the specs on the worm.



#87 tim53

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 11:36 AM

Most definitely a Cave Mirror Cell . A un marked 1.75 " thick 10'' F 5.6 mirror still could be a Star-liner mirror in a Cave mirror cell .

The mirror could still be a Cave.  I've had two Cave telescopes with unsigned mirrors in them that were clearly original.


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#88 paulabuls

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 05:34 PM

The mirror could still be a Cave.  I've had two Cave telescopes with unsigned mirrors in them that were clearly original.

Would there be any way to tell?



#89 apfever

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 05:53 PM

The mirror could still be a Cave.  I've had two Cave telescopes with unsigned mirrors in them that were clearly original.

I have one as well, but without engraving it can't be verified. I have personal phone discussion from the original owners brother and sister in law, as well as all the construction of the telescope appearing to support it.

The mirror is a dead ringer for the Cave's by comparing size, coating, edge and back finish, etc.  It has the Pancro or Upco (can't remember which but the right one) coating sticker that matches the time.

However, it can't be confirmed by engraving.


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#90 apfever

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 05:59 PM

Would there be any way to tell?

The edge of your mirror appears to have a pebbly mold cast finish, and it does have a different engraving for focal length. Both of those would indicate NOT Cave.  I'll take a look at my SL 8" mirror for comparison soon.


Edited by apfever, 09 January 2019 - 06:24 PM.


#91 CHASLX200

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 06:38 PM

I must have been cheated as my 2" shaft Starliner mount had no bearings in the DEC axis.  Otherwise it was a good mount for the time i had mine for a 10" F/8.3.



#92 Jeff B

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 11:17 AM

I must have been cheated as my 2" shaft Starliner mount had no bearings in the DEC axis.  Otherwise it was a good mount for the time i had mine for a 10" F/8.3.

Me too, mine was just a bore sleeve with nylon washer.  Rather cheap.



#93 CHASLX200

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 07:14 PM

Me too, mine was just a bore sleeve with nylon washer.  Rather cheap.

 Maybe it was a option. My mount was a older version.  The Adjusta cell was nice. I had one for a 8" F/8 Newt i built and liked it would fit many diff OD tubes.




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