I've watched the video on the TS Optics 2" LED collimation tool. Interesting. the device is, essentially, a card with a hole in the centre illuminated with a red LED.
Using the TS Optics device, you collimate the secondary mirror by putting the device in the focuser after first removing the extension rings, look at the secondary mirror central doughnut through the hole in the card and adjust the mirror so that the reflection of the hole in the card is centred in the secondary mirror central doughnut.
You collimate the primary by centring the outline of the shade tube with the inner edge of the device.
The method of collimating the secondary is virtually identical with the method I outlined in posts 35, 37 and 38 of this thread. The method of collimating the primary is different to the one I proposed.
The drawback of the TS Optics device, to my mind, is that it makes the focuser and shade tube a reference pointing direction and relies on the primary mirror being orthogonal to the pointing direction of the focuser. In my experience, this in not necessarily the case. Nonetheless, the device is cheaper than a laser and probably produces a similar level of collimation.
For those who might be interested: I've produced a complete description of collimating an RC using a card with a hole. The description covers collimating an RC8 and RC6, and I'm sure can applied to larger scopes. Es Reid (First Light Optics, UK) had the original idea for this technique and he uses it in his commercial work. The key advantage of this method is that the hole in the card provides a positional reference in the centre of the primary mirror, not a pointing reference - the focuser is not involved at all. The method aligns the primary and secondary mirrors to a reference line defined by the centre of the primary mirror and the centre of the fixing hole in the secondary spider.
You'll find my write up here:
There are many photographs to help you and additional notes and photos of the final tests using an artificial or real star.
If you ever wonder if your RC is working at its 'correct' focal length, i.e. where testing with a Ronchi grating gives parallel lines, then this short paper might help you: