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Tasco 15TE-5 Royal Astro

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#1 jtjtjtjt

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 05:36 PM

Hi All!

 

I found this gem of a scope recently and it cleaned up quite well. It has all it's accessories except 1 slow motion control arm and 1 piece of styrofoam that I replaced with a piece of memory foam. I haven't been able to find many others that have sold recently. There are none listed on CN and 2 listed on Astromart that were sold in 2007 and 2010. I have no idea the value of this scope. any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! 

 

Clear Skies!!!

 

John

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#2 Russell Smith

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 05:42 PM

Looks like you got a keeper.
Get it in the registry. Use it. It will amaze. Great find.
As to value, whatever you and a buyer settle on. The clock drive is a major bonus.
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#3 Esso2112

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:04 PM

The 15Te’s don’t show up very often. Great scope with very good optics. The C on the serial number on the box indicates that it is a true 15Te with the clock drive. 

 

Very nice find and it looks new. Enjoy the views it will give. 


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#4 Bomber Bob

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:15 PM

Great find!  Yes, the original Tasco clock drive is rare -- and valuable by itself.  The lens should be an excellent performer.


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#5 Astrolite

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:21 PM

Nice score, if it were mine I would not even entertain the thought of selling it. I do have a 10TE, same OTA, and the views through it are stunning! If you want pinpoint stars, this is the scope!


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#6 jtjtjtjt

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 07:04 PM

Looks like you got a keeper.
Get it in the registry. Use it. It will amaze. Great find.
As to value, whatever you and a buyer settle on. The clock drive is a major bonus.

Thank you!



#7 jtjtjtjt

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 07:04 PM

The 15Te’s don’t show up very often. Great scope with very good optics. The C on the serial number on the box indicates that it is a true 15Te with the clock drive. 

 

Very nice find and it looks new. Enjoy the views it will give. 

Thank you!



#8 jtjtjtjt

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 07:04 PM

Great find!  Yes, the original Tasco clock drive is rare -- and valuable by itself.  The lens should be an excellent performer.

Thank you!



#9 jtjtjtjt

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 07:04 PM

Nice score, if it were mine I would not even entertain the thought of selling it. I do have a 10TE, same OTA, and the views through it are stunning! If you want pinpoint stars, this is the scope!

Thank You!



#10 apfever

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 08:21 PM

I wasn't planning this picture for here, but I did a copy pic and put an arrow to the extra slo-mo cable.

I just sorted everyting today, one earlier model that has slightly different labeled parts, one other complete, and one part OTA and a misc. of other parts. One of the third extras is a slo-mo cable.

Interesting to look at the manual pictures and see the flower knob control on the DEC and the rod knob control on the RA, but the parts list which referenced the manual calls the flower knob cable the RA and the rod knob cable the DEC.  I'm with those that look at the pictures and turn the pages, but the controls are interchangabel. I have an extra flower knob slo-mo.  

You might want to do an itemized list of what you have.  I have a hodge podge of genuine 10TE extras, that I just designated this afternoon.

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#11 pakman2

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 08:30 PM

great scope. a 1.25" adapter that was made in the past would allow the use of 1.25" eyepieces and would enhance the viewing. I am trying to make an adapter like the one made by member tenacious.
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#12 agmoonsolns

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 08:37 PM

Baader makes a ring/adapter which converts the focuser to T2. Then you can use all kinds of cool stuff that attaches to T2 (like the Baader 1.25" focusing eyepiece holder - brass compression ring with micro helical focuser - the best). One can also add a 2" adapter to the T2 adapter and while it will give a larger FOV than 1.25", it's still not a full 2" and vignettes.


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#13 jtjtjtjt

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 09:24 PM

I wasn't planning this picture for here, but I did a copy pic and put an arrow to the extra slo-mo cable.

I just sorted everyting today, one earlier model that has slightly different labeled parts, one other complete, and one part OTA and a misc. of other parts. One of the third extras is a slo-mo cable.

Interesting to look at the manual pictures and see the flower knob control on the DEC and the rod knob control on the RA, but the parts list which referenced the manual calls the flower knob cable the RA and the rod knob cable the DEC.  I'm with those that look at the pictures and turn the pages, but the controls are interchangabel. I have an extra flower knob slo-mo.  

You might want to do an itemized list of what you have.  I have a hodge podge of genuine 10TE extras, that I just designated this afternoon.

Thank you! I'll take it! The flower knob will work just fine! lol :)



#14 jtjtjtjt

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 09:25 PM

great scope. a 1.25" adapter that was made in the past would allow the use of 1.25" eyepieces and would enhance the viewing. I am trying to make an adapter like the one made by member tenacious.

Thank you! Great idea!



#15 jtjtjtjt

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 09:25 PM

Baader makes a ring/adapter which converts the focuser to T2. Then you can use all kinds of cool stuff that attaches to T2 (like the Baader 1.25" focusing eyepiece holder - brass compression ring with micro helical focuser - the best). One can also add a 2" adapter to the T2 adapter and while it will give a larger FOV than 1.25", it's still not a full 2" and vignettes.

Thanks for the info!



#16 apfever

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 01:05 AM

Here's the deal with adapters.
Let's differentiate between a DRAW tube that the pinion gear moves, and the PULL tube that your hand moves.
The pull tube goes in the draw tube. You rough focus with the pull tube, then fine focus with the draw tube. It's a good idea to center the draw tube in it's throw before rough focusing with the pull tube. That way you have equal fine focus in and out.

 

The Pull tube is the one that has the eyepiece ring on the end. You need to MAKE SURE that what ever is on the end of the pull tube is fastened solid and large enough to keep the pull tube from falling into the OTA, through the baffle and through your lens. I know. 

 

Turns out I only have ONE original fully functional eyepiece ring. The other two OTA in entry #10 above have no fitting on the end of the pull tube.  I have to be very careful not to hold the focuser up since the pull tube can slide completely into the OTA. Notice the mounted OTA are focuser down and finder tucked under tripod.

 

The pull tube is internally threaded. I don't know the specs but I did check with a few other Tasco, a Towa 339, a Mayflower 80mm, ATCO, a.....nothing else fit the 10TE.
The OUTSIDE diameter of the pull tube is 1.264" give or take 0.001" which is a blessing. Anything that will tightly sleeve the pull tube, will also be very close to fitting your 1.25" eyepieces. In other words, the pull tube is just a hair larger than standard 1.25" eyepieces.  If you use some kind of pipe to sleeve onto the pull tube, then you need to MAKE SURE it is fastened solid enough to keep the pull tube from slipping out and falling into the objective...…

 

I have a bunch of scrap aviation tubing (radical landings by intent, another story, ok sometimes not by intent too) that is sleeved but I'm not sure if any is 1.25", I do have some 1.5" I used on a countershaft....at any rate it would be very easy to ream out an aluminum tube that is 1.25" inside diameter. Sleeving can come in a variety of clearances and 1.26"+ might be available. Use a thick enough sleeve  to be able to drill an tap for your eyepiece set screw.

 

Sleeve onto the pull tube far enough to be able to drill and screw them together without going through the internal pull tube threads. No sense in boogering up those threads. I'm not going to 1.25" eyepieces so I'll be working with the internal threads or internal sleeving for 0.965 accessories. 

 

 

Baader makes a ring/adapter which converts the focuser to T2. Then you can use all kinds of cool stuff that attaches to T2 (like the Baader 1.25" focusing eyepiece holder - brass compression ring with micro helical focuser - the best). One can also add a 2" adapter to the T2 adapter and while it will give a larger FOV than 1.25", it's still not a full 2" and vignettes.

Do these screw directly into the pull tube?  Link to the specific item? Do you know the pull tube thread specs?


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#17 agmoonsolns

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 01:28 AM

I remove the annoying pull tube and put the adapter (standard Vixen threads found on most Japanese refractors) on the end of the draw tube (part of the rack and pinion focuser). I then use one to three thick/sturdy T2 extension tubes to make up the focusing distance of the removed pull tube (or - standard Vixen extension tubes to draw tube and then add Vixen to T2 adapter to the end of that). Then add T2 accessory like 2" adapter, 1.25" focusing eyepiece holder, etc. With 1 to 3 extension tubes of various lengths, there's no need for the pull tube. The adapted focuser lacking pull tube is much more stable and doesn't vignette nearly as much. No more unexpected sliding either. I have found (for my scope) the use of one 2" extension tube and one 1" extension allows me to reach focus with almost all of my eyepieces without any changes. I do have a couple of unusual eyepiece that require the addition of another extension tube and two require the removal of the 1" extension tube. With the three extension tubes, I can reach focus with every eyepiece/accessory I have just by changing the tubes as needed. 

 

I realize this requires modifying original equipment which many abhor, but the mods are easily reversible (just put the pull tube back). This new arrangement results in so much more stability, safety, and weight carrying ability of the focuser, I think it's a worthwhile endeavor.

 

https://agenaastro.c...crofocuser.html

 

https://agenaastro.c...03-1508039.html


Edited by agmoonsolns, 18 February 2019 - 01:29 AM.

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#18 agmoonsolns

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 01:37 AM

Not to mention you get wider field of view with the removal of the pull tube (it really cuts down on the size of the FOV).

 

Really nice extension tubes (both T2 and M36.4/Vixen) can be purchased very inexpensively from places in China selling on eBay.

 

There's no focuser droop or play when you use extension tubes instead of the pull tube, it's a solid combination.

 

All of the problems with the pull tube type focuser was why they changed to the single stage focusers you find in later, newer units. I personally prefer the single stage focusers and try to seek them out over the 2-stage units with the pull tube.

 

I hope this helped some.


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#19 Astrolite

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 08:33 AM

I remove the annoying pull tube and put the adapter (standard Vixen threads found on most Japanese refractors) on the end of the draw tube (part of the rack and pinion focuser). I then use one to three thick/sturdy T2 extension tubes to make up the focusing distance of the removed pull tube (or - standard Vixen extension tubes to draw tube and then add Vixen to T2 adapter to the end of that). Then add T2 accessory like 2" adapter, 1.25" focusing eyepiece holder, etc. With 1 to 3 extension tubes of various lengths, there's no need for the pull tube. The adapted focuser lacking pull tube is much more stable and doesn't vignette nearly as much. No more unexpected sliding either. I have found (for my scope) the use of one 2" extension tube and one 1" extension allows me to reach focus with almost all of my eyepieces without any changes. I do have a couple of unusual eyepiece that require the addition of another extension tube and two require the removal of the 1" extension tube. With the three extension tubes, I can reach focus with every eyepiece/accessory I have just by changing the tubes as needed. 

 

I realize this requires modifying original equipment which many abhor, but the mods are easily reversible (just put the pull tube back). This new arrangement results in so much more stability, safety, and weight carrying ability of the focuser, I think it's a worthwhile endeavor.

 

https://agenaastro.c...crofocuser.html

 

https://agenaastro.c...03-1508039.html

This is the same route I have taken with my 10TE. I find that I need two extensions to bring my eyepieces to focus. I use one standard 2" long extension and this Lumicon/Farpoint 3".

 

https://farpointastr...iece-push-back/

 

For the visual back Baader also makes this fine piece. Currently not imported into the USA, however, Agena Astro has assured me they will order a bunch. Screws directly into the drawtube and eliminates one expensive piece of your method.

 

https://www.baader-p...2-part-11).html


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#20 Chuck Hards

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 09:05 AM

Remember that just changing out the slip drawtube doesn't cure the "vignetting" problem.  The field of 100% illumination is determined by the OTA glare stop.  Most of these Japanese export refractors were designed with a fully illuminated field diameter of 10mm to 12mm, constrained by the tube stops.  You have to move it backwards to truly eliminate "vignetting".  Focuser mods alone don't do it.

 

It's a wonderful scope, I have a couple of them including the 15TEA, which is the pedestal-mounted version.  There isn't a better 3-inch achromat out there.


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#21 jtjtjtjt

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 10:40 AM

Remember that just changing out the slip drawtube doesn't cure the "vignetting" problem.  The field of 100% illumination is determined by the OTA glare stop.  Most of these Japanese export refractors were designed with a fully illuminated field diameter of 10mm to 12mm, constrained by the tube stops.  You have to move it backwards to truly eliminate "vignetting".  Focuser mods alone don't do it.

 

It's a wonderful scope, I have a couple of them including the 15TEA, which is the pedestal-mounted version.  There isn't a better 3-inch achromat out there.

Nice! The pedestal mount! I'd love to find one myself someday! laugh.gif



#22 Chuck Hards

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 11:04 AM

Nice! The pedestal mount! I'd love to find one myself someday! laugh.gif

It looks cool, but the tripod version dampens vibration faster.  


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#23 terraclarke

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 11:18 AM

It's a wonderful scope, I have a couple of them including the 15TEA, which is the pedestal-mounted version.  There isn't a better 3-inch achromat out there.


That’s a rather objective statement! wink.gif

https://www.fzu.cz/~...iss_AS80en.html
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#24 Chuck Hards

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 11:31 AM

The Zeiss uses uncommon glass and is a semi-apo, isn't it? 

 

You know what I mean.  rolleyes.gif

 

Let's see Zeiss do it for the price of a Tasco.  :lol:


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#25 terraclarke

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 01:09 PM

It’s basically a Steinheil doublet using a combination of KzF2 + BK7 glass. While it has been discussed as a semi-apochromat, I think by modern standars and modern glasses, it is a very fine achromat. Semi-apochromat is a very dubious term these days. In this forum people have even refered to 60mm F20 standard Fraunhofer objectives as semi-apochromats.


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