191 replies to this topic

[DanielJStein]

Alrighty so here is the deal. Every now and then I go through my gear and clean/organize/adjust/etc. to keep it in tip top shape. I noticed a few things about both iOptron Skyguider Pro’s I own during this process.

The geared adjustment notches on the alt-az base for example seemed to jiggle even with the base fully locked. Upon teardown, I found two allen hex screws which just needed to be aligned and tightened.

The RA clutch did not seem to be holding the mounting block. It turns out, the block can be rotated all the way to the left where it is taught and an allen hex can be tightened inside to lock it in place.

So my question... Is there some sort of maintenance or upkeep guide which goes through the tracker and highlights which parts need to be adjusted and tightened every now and then? These are just a few discoveries I am making on my own from my use, so perhaps other users on the forum have their own experience with their mount they can share here. I know there is a guide somewhere which goes into great detail about rotating the polar scope to re-align it with perfect placement to the N-S celestial poles, so maybe something like that?

[stiff_upper_lip]

I have been collecting files related to the Skyguider Pro maintenance mostly from other posts here on CN. 

 

1. Polar Scope Alignment 

2. RA Play Identification & Fixing

Attached Files

•  SGP_PolarScopeAlign.pdf   230.78KB   1270 downloads
•  SGP_RA_Play.pdf   178.71KB   1850 downloads

[stiff_upper_lip]

3. How to Rotate or Replace a SkyGuider Pro Polar Scope

Attached Files

•  SGP_PolarScopeRotating.pdf   317.38KB   1021 downloads

[DanielJStein]

I have been collecting files related to the Skyguider Pro maintenance mostly from other posts here on CN. 

 

1. Polar Scope Alignment 

2. RA Play Identification & Fixing

THIS IS FANTASTIC!! Totally along the lines of what I am looking for here. My RA for sure has some play that needs fixing. Thank you so much!

[Poynting]

I found that my RA has a very small amount of play, but it functions great and I am hesitant to "fix something that isn't broken".

 

Not maintenance, but I'd highly recommend this low profile fluid pano head as a replacement to the proviced rotating Dec block when using with camera lenses or arcaswiss compatible devices. I found the provided rotating Dec block too loose and it would change target framing when locking down the two set screws. This is also better than a ball head in that the lower profile keeps the mass of your gear closer to the center of rotation.

Edited by Poynting, 07 March 2019 - 10:49 AM.

[mewmartigan]

I found that my RA has a very small amount of play, but it functions great and I am hesitant to "fix something that isn't broken".

 

Not maintenance, but I'd highly recommend this low profile fluid pano head as a replacement to the proviced rotating Dec block when using with camera lenses or arcaswiss compatible devices. I found the provided rotating Dec block too loose and it would change target framing when locking down the two set screws. This is also better than a ball head in that the lower profile keeps the mass of your gear closer to the center of rotation.

That pano head looks nice. Ordered. Thanks!

[DanielJStein]

I found that my RA has a very small amount of play, but it functions great and I am hesitant to "fix something that isn't broken".

 

Not maintenance, but I'd highly recommend this low profile fluid pano head as a replacement to the proviced rotating Dec block when using with camera lenses or arcaswiss compatible devices. I found the provided rotating Dec block too loose and it would change target framing when locking down the two set screws. This is also better than a ball head in that the lower profile keeps the mass of your gear closer to the center of rotation.

Wow great idea, I just always used a ball head or geared head. I think RRS makes something similar, although significantly pricier. 

[Poynting]

[stiff_upper_lip]

Poynting, Thank you for the suggestion. I just ordered the pano head. 

 

I see that you have connected it to the longer side of the DEC mounting bracket.  Would attaching the pano head, instead, to the shorter side of the DEC mounting bracket (bottom side in the picture above) allows 360 free rotation without mechanically interfering with the head of the long locking screw connecting the DEC mounting bracket to the Skyguider Pro?  

Edited by stiff_upper_lip, 08 March 2019 - 11:42 AM.

[DanielJStein]

Brilliant, this looks far more intuitive to attach a lens or telescope to the Skyguider Pro with ease.

[Poynting]

Poynting, Thank you for the suggestion. I just ordered the pano head. 

 

I see that you have connected it to the longer side of the DEC mounting bracket.  Would attaching the pano head, instead, to the shorter side of the DEC mounting bracket (bottom side in the picture above) allows 360 free rotation without mechanically interfering with the head of the long locking screw connecting the DEC mounting bracket to the Skyguider Pro?  

I'm not sure if putting this pano head on the shorter side would have issues. I used to put my ball head and load on the shorter side to extend the counterweight out more on the longer side. The problem is that in order to get the polar scope reticle to be illuminated the camera would have to be upside down, and then you would need to move it to your framing position, which kind of makes it awkward and prone to messing up alignment. Thus I have moved back to the default positions for the camera/load and counterweights. It allows me place the camera upright for polar alignment, lock the RA clutch, and after PA move the camera with the electronic controls, so there is less of a chance to mess up PA after doing it.

[stiff_upper_lip]

.... The problem is that in order to get the polar scope reticle to be illuminated the camera would have to be upside down, and then you would need to move it to your framing position, which kind of makes it awkward and prone to messing up alignment. 

This is interesting. I've just tested this confirguration but didn't experience this problem. On my Skyguider Pro, the polar scope reticle illuminates just fine with the imaging train positioned upright (on top) while connected to the shorter side of the DEC bracket.    

Edited by stiff_upper_lip, 09 March 2019 - 12:36 AM.

[Poynting]

This is interesting. I've just tested this confirguration but didn't experience this problem. On my Skyguider Pro, the polar scope reticle illuminates just fine with the imaging train positioned upright (on top) while connected to the shorter side of the DEC bracket.    

That's interesting. My reticle is upright and illuminated when the longer side of the DEC bracket is upright. When turned 180 and the short side it upright the reticle is upside down and the led light is not reaching it. Sounds like they changed something between models, or you lucked out, but that is good that you can do that with your model.

[DanielJStein]

That's interesting. My reticle is upright and illuminated when the longer side of the DEC bracket is upright. When turned 180 and the short side it upright the reticle is upside down and the led light is not reaching it. Sounds like they changed something between models, or you lucked out, but that is good that you can do that with your model.

Oddly enough my reticle is rotated about 60º on one of my Skyguider's and perfectly aligned on the another. I think it is just how some are built.

[Jim Waters]

Jumping in to ask a question.  I have the Skyguider Pro and Star Adventurer.  I like both.

 

Are some of you placing a Ball-Head on top of the DEC Bracket when using the Skyguider Pro?

[Hypoxic]

That pano head looks nice. Ordered. Thanks!

Sure does. Just ordered one as well!

 

This morning I disassembled the Skyguider wedge and added some lithium grease to the altitude worm gear, both azimuth screws, the pivot bolt and a drop of machine oil to both sides of the worm gear bushings.  I also noticed that the plastic shims around the pivot bolt had an excessive amount of flashing around the bolt hole, which I cleaned up with a modeling knife. This made a huge difference in the fluidity of movement. I’m not going to say it’s butter smooth, but much, much better than what it was to begin with. Mine was very stiff and sticky out of the box and I really wasn’t happy with it.

[DanielJStein]

Jumping in to ask a question.  I have the Skyguider Pro and Star Adventurer.  I like both.

 

Are some of you placing a Ball-Head on top of the DEC Bracket when using the Skyguider Pro?

I do! I am not competent enough to figure out how to find targets with just the RA and the manual DEC, so I use a ball head for an extra axis of movement. Here is a picture of my setup. You cannot see the ball head but you can tell based on the angle of the camera to the DEC bracket the head is there.

Attached Thumbnails

• 

[Poynting]

So I noticed my polar scope was a little out of alignment with RA axis, i.e. when rotating RA something placed in the center initially wobbles around the center in an ellipse.

 

This occasionally happens and can be fixed as per the pdf attached above.

 

After doing this I redid another "mod" I have done to make my polar alignment (PA) even better, I hope.

 

Firstly, most people perform PA with this type of mount by aligning Polaris to a position on the reticle as given by a polar finder app. This type of PA has some inherent issues, namely parallax seen between Polaris and the reticle when moving your eye around in front of the scope, and also how "level" your reticle is.

 

The second issue of the reticle is that if your reticle is off by an angle from being truly at the "12 o'clock position" with respect to the horizon/sky, then when you place Polaris in the "right" position on the reticle it will actually be off by that angle that your reticle is rotated from the correct position.

 

The manual and many tutorials online state that since the Skyguider Pro has a hole to allow the red LED light to illuminate the reticle close to this "12 o'clock position" that you just have to turn RA until the light shines in and you are good to go for PA. I found that the window when turning that lets the LED illuminate the reticle is not infinitesimal, and there is a lot of room allowing the light to shine in when the reticle is far off from being level.

 

Here is my solution:

 

First always level the Skyguider Pro or tripod. The tripod being as level as possible provides a consistent reference for each time you adjust the RA to get the reticle in the right position. If the tripod is not level, then the reticle can be off by how much the tripod is tilted.

 

 

 

I use this level I bought on Aliexpress, but I'm sure any level can work.

 

After leveling the tripod, I then use a distant object that is known to be vertical, like vertical edges on a building, or a radio tower / mast.

 

I then adjust the RA such that the reticle's vertical line is aligned with the vertical edge I am referencing.

 

Here you can see when I move the altitude knob of the Skyguider the tower in the view stays along the vertical line of the reticle:

 

 

 

 

Now that I know the reticle is truly "level", in the "12 o'clock position", whatever you wanna call it, to the best of my ability, I mark two reference points as shown below with a silver sharpie:

 

 

One mark goes on the red stationary part of the Skyguider, and the other mark goes on the polar scope, so that they are aligned.

 

Now in the field, when I level my tripod, I just moved the markings together and I know my reticle is as good as it can get. Then I perform PA.

 

I hope that someone finds this useful.

Edited by Poynting, 10 March 2019 - 02:40 PM.

[Poynting]

I used to use a ball head, but found that when the camera/lens was off at some weird angle it would make leveling the system much more complicated, or impossible.

 

I do! I am not competent enough to figure out how to find targets with just the RA and the manual DEC, so I use a ball head for an extra axis of movement. Here is a picture of my setup. You cannot see the ball head but you can tell based on the angle of the camera to the DEC bracket the head is there.

I notice you are using an MGEN with your Skyguider. I have one myself, and I have found it easy to use and really helps the tracking. I can't wait to get out and use it to take something other than test shots soon. How are you liking yours? That is a massive guidescope. Do you have any results to share with guiding the Skyguider Pro?

Edited by Poynting, 10 March 2019 - 02:38 PM.

[DanielJStein]

So I noticed my polar scope was a little out of alignment with RA axis, i.e. when rotating RA something placed in the center initially wobbles around the center in an ellipse.

 

This occasionally happens and can be fixed as per the pdf attached above.

 

After doing this I redid another "mod" I have done to make my polar alignment (PA) even better, I hope.

 

Firstly, most people perform PA with this type of mount by aligning Polaris to a position on the reticle as given by a polar finder app. This type of PA has some inherent issues, namely parallax seen between Polaris and the reticle when moving your eye around in front of the scope, and also how "level" your reticle is.

 

The second issue of the reticle is that if your reticle is off by an angle from being truly at the "12 o'clock position" with respect to the horizon/sky, then when you place Polaris in the "right" position on the reticle it will actually be off by that angle that your reticle is rotated from the correct position.

 

The manual and many tutorials online state that since the Skyguider Pro has a hole to allow the red LED light to illuminate the reticle close to this "12 o'clock position" that you just have to turn RA until the light shines in and you are good to go for PA. I found that the window when turning that lets the LED illuminate the reticle is not infinitesimal, and there is a lot of room allowing the light to shine in when the reticle is far off from being level.

 

Here is my solution:

 

First always level the Skyguider Pro or tripod. The tripod being as level as possible provides a consistent reference for each time you adjust the RA to get the reticle in the right position. If the tripod is not level, then the reticle can be off by how much the tripod is tilted.

 

 

 

 

I use this level I bought on Aliexpress, but I'm sure any level can work.

 

After leveling the tripod, I then use a distant object that is known to be vertical, like vertical edges on a building, or a radio tower / mast.

 

I then adjust the RA such that the reticle's vertical line is aligned with the vertical edge I am referencing.

 

Here you can see when I move the altitude knob of the Skyguider the tower in the view stays along the vertical line of the reticle:

 

Now that I know the reticle is truly "level", in the "12 o'clock position", whatever you wanna call it, to the best of my ability, I mark two reference points as shown below with a silver sharpie.

 

One mark goes on the red stationary part of the Skyguider, and the other mark goes on the polar scope, so that they are aligned.

 

Now in the field, when I level my tripod, I just moved the markings together and I know my reticle is as good as it can get. Then I perform PA.

 

I hope that someone finds this useful.

This is brilliant, although often times when shooting out on hikes there is no vertical reference. For this, I also have a workaround. 

 

First, determine where your Polar Scope is illuminated and what position on the "clock" is due North relative to the mount. Then, calculate how much of a gap between what would be a perfectly aligned reticle and where the scope is illuminated. For example, my scope is illuminated at the "3" position. Using the iOptron polar finder app, and this works only with the iOptron app as it precisely shows where Polaris will be relative to the numbers in the polar scope, calculate the difference in time where Polaris should be versus where Polaris is in the mis-aligned polar scope. In my case, if Polaris is positioned at the "6," then I would need to place it at the "9" in my scope. 

 

Like you say, leveling the tripod for this is crucial, and I have glasses which I take off to push my eye as close to the scope as possible therefore hopefully decreasing the margin of error. Maybe I am blabbering here, but I found with this method I can manage about a 3 minute exposure with a 50mm lens.

 

I used to use a ball head, but found that when the camera/lens was off at some weird angle it would make leveling the system much more complicated, or impossible.

 

I notice you are using an MGEN with your Skyguider. I have one myself, and I have found it easy to use and really helps the tracking. I can't wait to get out and use it to take something other than test shots soon. How are you liking yours? That is a massive guidescope. Do you have any results to share with guiding the Skyguider Pro?

I love my MGEN II! It is so easy to use especially for someone like me who does not know squat about imaging with more advanced equipment. It corrects the periodic error quite well after disabling the DEC function. The guidescope is an Astromania 60mm and as you can see I have placed it on the counterweight side of the mount for easier balancing of the load. I can pull 1-2 minute exposure times at 500mm with it! Here is my most recent result of Orion with it, this was about 70 minutes of integration from a Bortle 5-6.

Attached Thumbnails

• 

[DanielJStein]

Sure does. Just ordered one as well!

 

This morning I disassembled the Skyguider wedge and added some lithium grease to the altitude worm gear, both azimuth screws, the pivot bolt and a drop of machine oil to both sides of the worm gear bushings.  I also noticed that the plastic shims around the pivot bolt had an excessive amount of flashing around the bolt hole, which I cleaned up with a modeling knife. This made a huge difference in the fluidity of movement. I’m not going to say it’s butter smooth, but much, much better than what it was to begin with. Mine was very stiff and sticky out of the box and I really wasn’t happy with it.

Wow I cannot believe I missed this! I need to get down and dirty with my Skyguider and do this. This type of input is exactly what I am looking for on this thread. My older, more used SGP sounds like it needs a good lubrication. I hope I can pull this off without ruining it.

[Hypoxic]

Wow I cannot believe I missed this! I need to get down and dirty with my Skyguider and do this. This type of input is exactly what I am looking for on this thread. My older, more used SGP sounds like it needs a good lubrication. I hope I can pull this off without ruining it.

Takes about 30 minutes to do and it’s really not at all complicated. I was going to remove the worm gear entirely but didn’t have an allen wrench small enough to remove the tiny grub screw securing it, that’s why I used machine oil for now. I’ve since ordered a smaller set of wrenches and when they arrive I’m going remove the worm, clean up the ends and add a dab of anti seize grease to the bushings as well. It does make a difference. Just don’t go crazy with the grease, a little bit goes a long way. For the two azimuth screws, I only greased the first 5 threads or so.

 

Edit *I used silver anti seize grease, not lithium grease. I edited the above post but can’t edit the first. Sorry ‘bout that.

Edited by Hypoxic, 11 March 2019 - 10:40 AM.

[DanielJStein]

Takes about 30 minutes to do and it’s really not at all complicated. I was going to remove the worm gear entirely but didn’t have an allen wrench small enough to remove the tiny grub screw securing it, that’s why I used machine oil for now. I’ve since ordered a smaller set of wrenches and when they arrive I’m going remove the worm, clean up the ends and add a dab of anti seize grease to the bushings as well. It does make a difference. Just don’t go crazy with the grease, a little bit goes a long way. For the two azimuth screws, I only greased the first 5 threads or so.

 

Edit *I used silver anti seize grease, not lithium grease. I edited the above post but can’t edit the first. Sorry ‘bout that.

Awesome, thank you so much! I will order some anti seize grease and get cracking. I have a set that goes down to 0.3 so hopefully that will be small enough for this bad boy. I will also take pictures and post them here so other folks can benefit from this process as well.

[Jim Waters]

Edit *I used silver anti seize grease, not lithium grease. I edited the above post but can’t edit the first. Sorry ‘bout that.

"silver anti seize grease" ??? 

 

What about Super Lube?  That's what I use.

[mewmartigan]

Awesome, thank you so much! I will order some anti seize grease and get cracking. I have a set that goes down to 0.3 so hopefully that will be small enough for this bad boy. I will also take pictures and post them here so other folks can benefit from this process as well.

Pics would be great!