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STL-1001E water cooling

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#1 scubabri

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Posted 21 March 2019 - 09:45 PM

I have a 1001E and the inlet hose plugs are 1/8" ID. 

 

Anyone know where I can find a pump that will lift 3-4 feet that will accept a hose type of this size?

 

thanks

 

b

 



#2 Terry R

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Posted 22 March 2019 - 01:48 AM

I have been using water cooling on the STL for years.   When I turn on the camera, the pump is powered at the same time.  It's a 12v DC pump that is used for PC cooling.  Simple and cheap.  You can get some with a header tank if you like.  Do a search on E-Bay and many should come up.  I also use very flexible silicon tubing ~10 meters,  as it goes up the wiring loom, and allow for the rotator to do its job.

 

You don't have to chill the water.  Mine allows for another 6C cooling.  It all helps.  Just before it returns water to the header, the water flows through a radiator as well.



#3 scubabri

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Posted 22 March 2019 - 03:32 PM

Thank you for your response. 

 

The problem I'm having is finding a pump that will accomodate the 1/8" id of the hoses and will lift to the camera.



#4 wrcooney

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 01:33 PM

b,

 

I have been using a 12v pump with about 10ft of head to cool my ST-10XME.  It's listed on Amazon as "Decdeal Submersible Water Pump DC 12V 5W Ultra-Quiet Pump for Pond, Aquarium, 280L/H Lift 300cm."  It comes with bare wires so you'll have to cannibalize an old AC wall wart or hook it directly to a 12V power supply.  It has a 1/4" tubing outlet connection so you will have to splice from 1/4" to 1/8".  Here are some barb splicers that will do the trick:  "LTWFITTING Bar Production Stainless Steel 316 Barb Splicer Mender 1/4" Hose ID x 1/8" Hose ID Fitting Air Water Fuel Boat (Pack of 5)."

 

If you run the return tubing back under the water level in your water reservoir/bucket, you can get by with an aquarium pump that only puts up a couple of feet of head.   The siphon effect means you only need the head you actually use for differential pressure across the tubing and camera.  The downside is that you have to lift the bucket to about the level of the camera to get the lines full and flowing so that you actually get the siphon effect.  Once that has happened, you can put the bucket back on the ground.  I used to do it that way but like being able to just leave the bucket on the ground now.

 

Clearest skies,

Walt



#5 scubabri

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Posted 07 July 2019 - 02:01 PM

I finally got around to putting this together.  I'll report my results in a few days. 

 

b,

 

I have been using a 12v pump with about 10ft of head to cool my ST-10XME.  It's listed on Amazon as "Decdeal Submersible Water Pump DC 12V 5W Ultra-Quiet Pump for Pond, Aquarium, 280L/H Lift 300cm."  It comes with bare wires so you'll have to cannibalize an old AC wall wart or hook it directly to a 12V power supply.  It has a 1/4" tubing outlet connection so you will have to splice from 1/4" to 1/8".  Here are some barb splicers that will do the trick:  "LTWFITTING Bar Production Stainless Steel 316 Barb Splicer Mender 1/4" Hose ID x 1/8" Hose ID Fitting Air Water Fuel Boat (Pack of 5)."

 

If you run the return tubing back under the water level in your water reservoir/bucket, you can get by with an aquarium pump that only puts up a couple of feet of head.   The siphon effect means you only need the head you actually use for differential pressure across the tubing and camera.  The downside is that you have to lift the bucket to about the level of the camera to get the lines full and flowing so that you actually get the siphon effect.  Once that has happened, you can put the bucket back on the ground.  I used to do it that way but like being able to just leave the bucket on the ground now.

 

Clearest skies,

Walt




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