73 replies to this topic

[roelb]

Since using CPWI this program issues warnings of low battery, I decided to install a new battery.

That didn't solve the "CPWI issue"!!!

So now I always run my Evo 8 with both the internal battery and an external powerbank, which I also use for

dew controller and camera.

No more problems with CPWI "false warnings".

Only the short "power drainage spikes" when starting slewing causes CPWI to warn for low battery, because this program monitors the supply voltage.

[carver2011]

Thank you mlord

It is great news knowing the Evolution will run on an external power supply, if the battery fails. If and when mine fails, I'll run it on a 12V 3000mah Talentcell. 
   Ed

[swin]

mlord

 I have replace battery when they were available. I have my old one is it worth replace cells as per your link for back up.

 

Thanks

[mlord]

mlord

 I have replace battery when they were available. I have my old one is it worth replace cells as per your link for back up.

 

Sure, but wait until you need it -- cells go bad over time just sitting on the shelf as a spare. 

You could open it up and check the voltages on the individual cells, if you like.  Chances are VERY good that only one cell is bad, dragging down the other eight as a result.  For under $5 you could replace that one cell and have a working pack again.

 

Cheers

[swin]

mlord

Thanks for your help

[BGazing]

Since using CPWI this program issues warnings of low battery, I decided to install a new battery.

That didn't solve the "CPWI issue"!!!

So now I always run my Evo 8 with both the internal battery and an external powerbank, which I also use for

dew controller and camera.

No more problems with CPWI "false warnings".

Only the short "power drainage spikes" when starting slewing causes CPWI to warn for low battery, because this program monitors the supply voltage.

What is the "CPWI issue"?

Btw emailed Celestron support, they are slow but eventually do reply. Battery is 125 dollars, I insisted to check whether it is compatible with older models...says not, have to replace motherboard as well, altogether almost 500 dollars, just wow.

I think I am better off trying to hack that 4 pin connection into a 2 pin one or vice versa.

[mlord]

 

I think I am better off trying to hack that 4 pin connection into a 2 pin one or vice versa.

Pretty easy, I imagine.  Especially since you already have the proper connector from the old pack.

Edited by mlord, 25 August 2022 - 12:37 PM.

[roelb]

What is the "CPWI issue"?

Btw emailed Celestron support, they are slow but eventually do reply. Battery is 125 dollars, I insisted to check whether it is compatible with older models...says not, have to replace motherboard as well, altogether almost 500 dollars, just wow.

I think I am better off trying to hack that 4 pin connection into a 2 pin one or vice versa.

The issue is the early low battery warning (they refer to the voltage which isn't, in my opinion, the correct criterion for a low battery measurement). 

[roelb]

Pretty easy, I imagine.  Especially since you already have the proper connector from the old pack.

That's what "Teleskop Service" did to my new battery.

[BGazing]

That's what "Teleskop Service" did to my new battery.

Hm, did they replace it, or did they send you the old connector?

I ask because Celestron wrote me as follows:

"The old connector is a 4 pin and the new connector is a 2 pin; they also have different pitch. It is not possible to just change the connector.

If you wish to try to modify the board for that we would not be able to assist."

I am unsure how to read this. In any event, it would not be me who would open it and replace it (but rather my friend), but I am just trying to figure out what is possible and what is not.

[dave85374]

I just had my computer board in my Evolution 8 replaced and they also put in a new battery.  Luckily for me it was done under warranty.  I guess this is what they do or have to do when they replace the board.

[mlord]

Celestron wrote me as follows:

"The old connector is a 4 pin and the new connector is a 2 pin; they also have different pitch. It is not possible to just change the connector.

 

 

That person at Celestron was just being a bit obtuse.  Nobody is suggesting to change the connector on the circuit board itself (which is what they are implying), but rather just taking the old cable/connector from the first battery and attaching it in place of the connector on the new battery.  Done.  Easy.

[elkrams]

I’m a newbie with astronomy and purchased a used Evolution 8.   The seller disclosed he was unable to get the Starsense to work and felt it might be the cable.  He also said the battery was bad (was always a fast blinking red), but used an external battery instead.  I reloaded all the SW, but I was unable to successfully get the starsense to work.  I had a hunch the battery was so bad that even with a battery pack, the Evolution+Starsense were not getting enough power to operate correctly.   I struggled with investing $100+ in a battery as I really didn’t want to crack the case on the Evo.  (I attempted an iphone X battery replacement last year and failed miserably so my confidence was very low.)

 

A few encouraging words from Gary Zapotoczny (as well as the disassembly link he provided) gave me enough confidence to give it a go.  I am pleased to say it was successful and I thought I would share a few thoughts.

1. I raised the tripod up to bar height and “operated” from a bar stool.  I used the 2 wrenches referenced and labeled all the screws removed with tape.
2. Be sure to turn the Evo off
3. I removed the 2 orange rings by loosening the 3 sets screws with the hex wrench on each and setting aside. (you are now done with the hex wrench)
4. I removed the rubber eyepiece and gently pulled out.
5. I removed the 6 screws on the horizontal base with the Torx wrench. 
6. Note: Screw lengths vary so I labeled every pair of screws with masking tape.  Takes 10 secs but you will thank yourself later.  (Base back, base front, etc.)
7. You can then remove the horizontal base cover.

You are now in a position to work on the vertical arm where the battery is.

8. Remove the 2 screws on the bottom of the vertical arm.  They will be come exposed after you lift out the base cover in step 5.
9. Remove the 2 screws on the top of the vertical arm.
10. I now moved to the back of the vertical arm.  I’m calling back where the on/off switch is.
11. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the arm by the on/off switch.
12. Carefully separate the plastic back starting at the top.  It should fall apart, if it doesn’t you haven’t taken out all the screws.   I used masking tape to move it a few inches away so I could access the battery.

You are now ready to change the battery.  (this is a great time to take a pic of the battery)

13. Remove the two screws holding the battery and set the battery and holder clips on the table.
14. Unplug the battery from the 2 prong clip on Evo controller board.   Feed the battery wire with clip out the back.  (I had to snip a plastic wire tie that was keeping a bundle of wires together.
15. Position the new battery next to the old battery in the same position.
16. On the top of my battery were 2 wires taped on.  (I think this may be a temperature sensor).  Carefully pull off the tape and immediately transfer with the same tape to new battery in same spot.    
17. Put new battery in the holder clips with cushions using the pic as your guide.  Take your time on this step to organize your wires.
18. Attach holder clips using 2 screws.
19. Feed wire through and plug in 2 prong clip on Evo controller board.
20. Replace plastic wire tie

You are now ready to reassemble in reverse order.  Vertical arm cover (start at the bottom as it goes around the on/off switch and I had to wiggle a bit).  Base cover.  Rubber insert.  Orange rings.

I then plugged into a wall charger.  The fast blinking red problem was gone.  It was now slow blinking indicating it was taking a charge.  It was fully charged (solid red) in about 3 hours.

Somebody said it was about 45 mins.  I think that is about right.  You could do it in 15 if you have changed one before, but go slow – take pics – and label the screws.  It was honestly easier than I thought.

Best of luck to all!

Steve Markle

 

Album: Evolution 8 Battery Replacement

10 images

0 comments

[mlord]

Nice and detailed instructions.  But don't let that put anyone else off!  The entire process is rather easy and quick in practice, half an hour tops to disassemble/reassemble!

[Herb_H]

This appears to be a recurring topic !

 

https://www.cloudyni...ore/?p=12162290

[mlord]

I tried unplugging the battery, and the mount then powered up and ran just fine from external power.  I suspect the factory 2A PSU may be insufficient in this mode, and would recommend at least a 5A PSU when used without any internal battery (to better handle momentary spikes in current draw during operation).

A follow-up to this:  My hand-controllers have since been updated to the latest firmware available for them at this time.  And the last time I tried powering up the mount with the battery unplugged, the Nexstar+ hand-controller complained continuously about "low battery", preventing any further use of the hand-controller.

 

I cannot say if this behaviour is new or consistent though, because my mount has "died" for other reasons, and I am in the process of repairing the main circuit board now.  I'll re-test without battery once everything else is in good shape again.
 

Edited by mlord, 18 October 2022 - 08:31 AM.

[mlord]

A follow-up to this:  My hand-controllers have since been updated to the latest firmware available for them at this time.  And the last time I tried powering up the mount with the battery unplugged, the Nexstar+ hand-controller complained continuously about "low battery", preventing any further use of the hand-controller.

Okay, more on this now:  The firmware does complain about "low battery" (when actually, there is NO battery attached), but just hitting BACK once is enough to dismiss the message and continue to use the hand-controller.

 

Sometimes, it doesn't even complain (bug?).

Edited by mlord, 25 October 2022 - 06:57 PM.

[whizbang]

I just dis-assembled my evo and replaced the power switch.  The procedure is exactly as described.  And pretty darn easy.

[carver2011]

I just dis-assembled my evo and replaced the power switch.  The procedure is exactly as described.  And pretty darn easy.

Hello whizbang

Where did you obtain a power switch. Was it from Celestron, or did you use a generic off the shelf switch. The switch on my Evo 8 is starting to act buggy.

Thank you

    Ed

[mlord]

Where did you obtain a power switch?

There are several sources, covered in this (currently short) thread:

 

https://www.cloudyni.../#entry12222098

https://www.digikey....11C1121/2116242

https://www.ebay.com/itm/110776537285

 

If your EVO switch is flaky, I do recommend fixing it sooner than later -- I partially fried my Evo main board while flicking the switch on/off trying to get it to "stick" in the "ON" state.  Too many brief power incidents in a row, caused a regulator to die on the main board, and other issues (all of which I fixed myself, as well as then fixing the switch!).

 

If one disassembles the mount to get at the switch, it can then be unplugged from a corner of the main board, and removed from the housing panel by compressing the end tabs.  The switch itself can then be opened up for repair, by prying in the gap on each side of the top rocker part.  The rocker will pop out, revealing a small bent metal tab that is probably not in the intended position.

 

I fiddled for 10 minutes getting the metal piece to sit in the obvious plastic tabs/slot for holding it, whilst then trying to push the rocker back in without disturbing the metal tab.  Got it on the fifth try!  The switch has never felt nor worked so good as it does now -- must have been defective from Day-1, but no more! 

Edited by mlord, 29 October 2022 - 07:59 AM.

[carver2011]

Thank you mlord, for that very helpful info, and advice.
Ed

[whizbang]

I got mine from DigiKey.  I think I ordered 5 for about $1.03 each.  The shipping was more than the parts.  The switch fit perfect and works perfect.  There are cheap imported alternatives out there.  But, I felt I had a better chance of getting a reliable part if I bought from a reputable distributor.

 

The part is:

 

E-Switch RE111C1121   DigiKey Number EG4763-ND

 

The E-Switch part I bought is rated for 16 amps at 125vac.  The original EVO switch is rated for 10 amps at 125vac.  E-Switch also makes a 10 amp version that should work fine.  But, The 16 amp switch was in stock and the price was cheap enough that there was no reason not to buy the higher rated part.

 

Buy at least two.  The switches' shell is cheap nylon.  I melted the first part I tried by leaving the soldering gun on the tab for a couple seconds too long.

Edited by whizbang, 29 October 2022 - 03:58 PM.

[mlord]

Note that the actual electrical current through this switch is close to zero -- it's a "soft" power switch.

[Leafus]

This is a great thread on the battery replacement - Thanks.

 

I am in the process of buying a secondhand mount with this issue that is around 6 years old - the change point between the 2 and 4 point pin batteries.

 

Is there any external way (as I don't have the mount yet) to know whether the mount I am buying is the new or old version. I read all the threads but could not see this, but I saw it suggested it was possible to tell before opening the mount up.

 

Many thanks and Merry Christmas

[RyzenAMD]

I don't worry too much if the internal battery should fail. I have stand alone battery packs from Talent Cell that I attach to the Evolution fork arm and it runs my scope all night long!